Project RUF Blackbird Grip Tune Settings Released

  • Thread starter No_OBsT33R
  • 254 comments
  • 38,223 views
This new one have a crazy TOE ,so crazy like this car ,but it work. 1'51" at Grand Valley second try. Could be this way. Tell me.

RUF CTR "Yellow Bird" '87

Transmission:
1: 3.034
2: 2.199
3: 1.696
4: 1.371
5: 1.177
6: 0.914
Final: 2.850

- Top Speed : 340 km/h

Drive-train
Adjustable LSD (Front/Rear)
- Initial Torque : -/07
- Acceleration Sensitivity : -/10
- Braking Sensitivity : -/08

Suspension
Suspension (Front/Rear)
- Ride Height : -40/-40
- Spring Rate : 14.5/11.5
- Dampers (Extension) : 9/6
- Dampers (Compression) : 9/8
- Anti-Roll Bars : 7/6

Wheel Alignment (Front/Rear)
- Camber angle : 0.3/0.2
- Toe Angle : -0.70/+0.55 you're not blind

Brakes (Front/Rear)
- Brake Balance 3/1

TIRES : R3 / R3

Drive aids
- ABS : 1
Else all off , ENJOY
 
Last edited:
@No_OBsT33R

I'll post it soon.
I think it's not finished. It needs just a little bit more time.
 
Got a big update for the Project coming in the next hour or so (when I get home) I'm near complete on the settings, just dialing in the final tweaks, I've gone ahead and Painted my Bird Black :D

I will still test out all the settings posted here, I ask others to do so as well to get as many opinions on them as we can.

Thanks No_OB
 
Project Update

I’ve done much testing of various set ups at various tracks. I’ve done my own tweaking and tuning trying to get this Bird as fast as she can be. What a daunting task as this beast has various tuning challenges. As you begin to address one issue you inadvertently create another. Then you get lost in curing all the issues. Another thing I’ve noticed is that consistency when testing this car is incredibly difficult. I’ve found myself making incredible fast laps but unable to repeat the time consistently, and settings that would churn hot laps, they would churn a hot lap when finally contained and dancing on the edge of disaster the whole way through, a dance that is difficult to repeat with precision. It would seem that to accomplish my Project goal, I may have to settle for a car that was not the absolute fastest, but the most balanced and consistent. At the same time I can’t completely tame the Beast, she still needs to be able to bite, but on demand.

I figured the biggest issue to address first and what would be impossible to overlook, was the incredible off balanced weight. The heavy rear end coupled with the earth shattering torque put out by the rear wheels makes for a touchy throttle pedal. Any tuning around such an offset weight/huge amount of torque would be an exercise in compromise in an attempt to contain the back end. It’s basically like driving a hammer with the front end being the handle. When you hit a corner the heavy side always wants to go around the light side, as if you threw the hammer. In the case of the CTR this is the rear end swinging around the front wheels. I made many attempts to tune the suspension as is, but it became more and more apparent that the weight needs to be equalized before we can address the suspension tuning.

I began making some calculations to see how much weight was being tossed around and how much the balance was upset as it moved around. This was a great move because it showed me just how serious the Problem is. The front and rear weight balances are so far apart when weight is transferred that while looking at how loaded the tires are during braking/acceleration and cornering it was all too clear what needed to be done. Ballast, this would be the only way to balance the weight and establish the best starting point for tuning. According to my calculations we were looking at a need for close to 200kg of ballast on the front end to even out the weight. Now some people don’t like the ballast because it does slow the car down, however when needed if done right it can be the answer to our problems. Seeing that there was a need for 200kg upfront I began making some other calculations based on some recent findings in regards to ballast. Some believe that when moving the ballast position you at the same time move the weight of the gas tank, or a 100kg of stock mass is moved with the ballast tank behind the scenes. When considering this if at position 0 there is 100kg behind the scene weight split between the front and back, then moving it in any direction will add 50kg in the direction you move it while taking 50kg off the other. So moving the ballast tank with nothing in it added 50kg to the front and took 50kg off the rear, after readjusting my calculations to account for this and the amount of weight transfer the new amount of ballast needed became 130kg up front approximately. So I toss 130kg and do some testing. The place I go is Eigar Nordwand because of that huge jump at the start. If I got an overly heavy side I should see some dip on the heavy side when in the air. I get the car air born, and she stays perfectly level and lands on all 4s.

With good often comes bad. So after I’ve been able to relatively balance the weight, I created a much heavier front end that doesn’t want to go around corners. What?!?!? A Yellowbird that understeers? Yeah, until you hit the gas too hard and break out the rear end that just whips around the front. So now I’ve created more issues, just great. Well actually, it was pretty great. Yes I generated more issues to solve, however all of a sudden proper tuning techniques to address the issues with the suspension began to work, I also started seeing real consistency.

I decided to fully address the suspension at this point, I needed to put the huge torque causing throttle oversteer on the back burner until the suspension was balanced. I’ll deal with the torque through gearing and LSD tuning. I figure when the suspension is in check the power would be easier to deal with. To do this I chocked the crap out of the motor until it was hard to break the tail end loose no matter how much throttle I gave. I then went all out on the suspension until I was satisfied I had it dialled in right.

Once I felt the suspension was in check, it was time to turn on the heat and unleash the 610ft-lb of Torque. Instantly it was more manageable with the suspension dialled in, I did need to tweak it to accommodate the new power but tuning this car at this point became easy. Gearing was a breeze; the only issue left at this point was the LSD.

The LSD was the touchiest area of the Tune, dialling it in right basically took much trial and error balancing the Initial Torque & Accel, while the Decel was a breeze. I spent many hours last night and this morning working on this, I felt it was dialled in on a 1:04.8XX lap at Eigar Nordwand. The car is set up and ready for testing.

I bring this set up over to multiple tracks, TGTT, Grand Valley, Suzuka, Fuji, and put down fast consistent laps, lap after lap. They are not as fast as I was able to get on more unstable configurations, but I’m running sick fast laps with consistency within tenths lap to lap, with the extra baggage...

The Decision has been made, Time to Paint the Yellow Bird Black....

I havent Tuned the Bird to be the fastes she can be. Through my testing I found that the fastest laps with this car come out of the most unstable settings and consistency with them is near non existant lap to lap. What I've done is tune the Bird to be more, balanced, Driver friendly, & consistant from lap to lap. While at the same time retaining the Character of the "YellowBird" in stock form where she can break the rear loose in a controled manner for "Fun" driving. I believe I've acomplished this, and the settings I will release I feel truely embody what the Project intended to acheive.

Stay Tuned for more details, a video of the Lap at Eigar Nordwand & the Reveling of the Settings.
 
Last edited:
Holy:censored: What a huge post!
It's a great tune log, good described and informative.👍

I'm looking forward to a comparison.
 
Here is The Lap at Eigar Nordwand, its basically to show the balance of the cr and to show that the tail end can still come out but in a controled maneur.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtMx09pIJk8

not sure how to embed the vid

Im not at home, on the road with the laptop, will get more into the details when I get home.
 
Last edited:
80 lbs ballast at -25, medium sport tires up front, soft sport on the rear. That's my ingredient for the Yellowbird.
 
dr_slump
Holy:censored: What a huge post!
It's a great tune log, good described and informative.👍

I'm looking forward to a comparison.

Thanks, spent a good deal of time on this car and set up, I feel the car deserves it. What a ride, reminds me of the Limited Edition Porsche from Bad Boys.
 
A "Yellow Bird" becomes The "Black Bird" Grand Valley Lap
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUvpaQbYExI


Thanks for checking out the project. Settings comming soon...

NrburgringNordschleife_37.jpg
 
dr_slump
Wow, looks very balanced and "easy" to drive.👍

How much ballast do you use?

Thanks, She is, incredibly fun and composed. With the power to rip loose the back end and easily control it.

I used as little ballast as possible, right around 130kg. I'll post up the settings after work.
 
budious
Well if you are going the ballast route give it a run down against my ballast tuned yellow bird available in my thread for comparison.

RUF CTR "Yellowbird" '87 Spec II - Nurburgring Edition


I gave them a go, the Final drive influenced me to retune the gears on my Tune a bit, I liked the lower value. It's certainly a fast set up, just still felt unstable. Utter lack of angle tuning could be part of the reason, but I'm sure it's quick.
 
azurt.jpg
That's the way to have a yellow bird that stay on the line. I've also put of a big amount of Toe in my last setting (- Toe Angle : -0.70/+0.55 you're not blind // i commented)... But you loose also all the caracter of the car.
Last night i've foud an easy slide RUF setting , 1'02" cool glide on EAGER track, using the great LDP tune of the RGT adapted to the Y.bird. It fit perfectly . Try it ,you'll see.
 
I gave them a go, the Final drive influenced me to retune the gears on my Tune a bit, I liked the lower value. It's certainly a fast set up, just still felt unstable. Utter lack of angle tuning could be part of the reason, but I'm sure it's quick.

Yeah, it wasn't really more than a rough showcase tune for ballast use at the time. I actually have one now that is just as fast if not quicker on the Nur without the ballast. Just as many things I do, I leave them half finished so I never quite get around to refreshing my tune thread. I was just thought it might help to see a nose ballast over a mid-rear ballast as you tried and whether one worked better than the other. I could probably update the current one with a little bit of camber it would make a lot of difference, but... too lazy. Good luck on your tune though.
 
BIG UPDATE! THE FINAL YB TUNE!
Ok, here's my tune.
The goal was to make it as fast and manageable as possible.
The result is a extremely easy car to drive and the laptimes are just unbelievable low.
Enjoy!

RUF CTR "Yellow Bird" '87

You need all tuning parts!
Cassis reinforcement is optional, but I recommend it.

Ballast:
kg : 0
Position : 0 (!!!)

Transmission:
Top Speed: 168mph/270kph (251mph/404kph)
1st: 2.766
2nd: 2.040
3rd: 1.618
4th: 1.336
5th: 1.110
6th: 0.925
Final: 2.500
(1. default, 2. max. speed, 3. single gear ratios, 4. final gear)

LSD
- Initial Torque : 11
- Acceleration : 17
- Braking : 14
(record setting: 8/17/11)

Suspension
- Ride Height : -31/-25
- Spring Rate : 11.6/14.3
- Dampers (Extension) : 6/7
- Dampers (Compression) : 5/6
- Anti-Roll Bars : 7/4

- Camber angle : 2.2/2.5
- Toe Angle : -0.40/+0.30

Brakes
- Brake Balance 7/4

Tires
-Race Soft

Please give it a go and let me know how it is.

(all aids off, except ABS 1)
I think this Yellowbird tune is finished. The only reason for me to change something, would be a negative review.

Have fun!
 
Last edited:
I tried your setup and yeah, it's very easy to drive, good balanced and stable.
But it's just too slow, because of the additional weight.
I know your goal was to make the Yellowbird easier to drive and you've done this very well.👍

I think it's better to drive constant and faultless laps with a slower setup, than using a fast tune and spin several times per lap.
 
dr_slump
I tried your setup and yeah, it's very easy to drive, good balanced and stable.
But it's just too slow, because of the additional weight.
I know your goal was to make the Yellowbird easier to drive and you've done this very well.👍

I think it's better to drive constant and faultless laps with a slower setup, than using a fast tune and spin several times per lap.

Thanks, cheers!

Yeah she will certainly go quicker around a track if able to contain her with a less stable set up. They are great but keep the car reserved for the highly skilled, I think this set up will have the Yellow Bird appealing and fun for a wider variety of drivers.
 
Thanks very much No_OBsT33R!!!
I appreciate your work and really enjoy the tune. Couldn´t get the birdy straight with my own tunes, yours cheered up my day :D
 
I'm working on a full review now.
I just finished writing up Rotary Junkie's review, and already did the car in stock form.
Using the Top Gear Test Track, since I saw a few others mention it.
My benchmark lap time in stock form that I'm comparing all following tunes to is a 1:08.008.

Probably going to do yours next Noobster.
 
I've been following this thread for a while, and I have to say, I was very excited to try out this tune ;)

You definitely achieved your goal!! It was so much easier to drive than the original that I was elated. I'm by no means close to being a good driver, but in the stock Yellowbird, I managed to successfully drive 4 clean laps out of 32 on the 'ring. (I gave up after that.) With this I'm getting a consistent 7/10.

Consistency and control were achieved by your tune, although it's not the tamest thing I've driven. However, the control does take a bit of the 'fun' out of driving a yellowbird (but it also takes out the frustration) haha

Anyway, congrats on your tune! I really enjoyed trying it out~
 
I believe it is maxed. There are very few upgrades. You obviously need the ones that allow customization and max hp. However, according to weight it appears there is no weight reduction 3 installed. Neither does he indicate any need for chassis reinforcement. Furthermore, the tires are marked only as "R" and drivetrain type as "FR" but it is a "RR"...
 
I believe it is maxed. There are very few upgrades. You obviously need the ones that allow customization and max hp. However, according to weight it appears there is no weight reduction 3 installed. Neither does he indicate any need for chassis reinforcement. Furthermore, the tires are marked only as "R" and drivetrain type as "FR" but it is a "RR"...

True, but I can only max it at 698 HP, it says 731 =/
 
Back