PSVR2 + Bass Shakers = new level of immersion.

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I think it I mounted this heavy thing like that, the aluminum mounting points of the transducer would snap! I definitely don't need any more force or vibes than it's putting out how it's mounted. This riug isn't super lightweight but it's probably still a lot lighter than yours.

Maybe if I took that plate and mounted that with one end hanging off to the side and then mounted the transducer to that it would be ok structurally. Actually this thing has a lot more "low end" low frequency vibes than the two smaller bass shakers which makes sense.

Almost like if you had a subwoofer with a very low crossover point and you didn't hear any mid bass but tons of low bass. Sometimes driving a car in GT7 I get insane low frequency vibes that totally drown out any higher vibes. Or else they are overpowering. It's cool but I think i want to hook up a smaller bass shaker so it kind of evens out the effect more.

It's like having two 15" woofers in your trunk instead of four 8" woofers for example. The very low vibes are almost overpowering the higher ones sometimes. Maybe I could hook up an inline EQ just for the BST-300EX and tone down the very low frequency vibes if running off of LFE sub-out only. Maybe in Simhub you can control that kind of thing, not sure.

But I think I'm going to install the other Aurasound transducers to "fill out" the vibes more near the 80hz zone. Maybe I can put one under the pedals and one near the rear of rig somehow. Then I can balance them with gain on the separate amps I'll be running. It's pretty crazy how it is now, but only in some cars.
 
BWX
I think it I mounted this heavy thing like that, the aluminum mounting points of the transducer would snap! I definitely don't need any more force or vibes than it's putting out how it's mounted. This riug isn't super lightweight but it's probably still a lot lighter than yours.

Maybe if I took that plate and mounted that with one end hanging off to the side and then mounted the transducer to that it would be ok structurally. Actually this thing has a lot more "low end" low frequency vibes than the two smaller bass shakers which makes sense.

Almost like if you had a subwoofer with a very low crossover point and you didn't hear any mid bass but tons of low bass. Sometimes driving a car in GT7 I get insane low frequency vibes that totally drown out any higher vibes. Or else they are overpowering. It's cool but I think i want to hook up a smaller bass shaker so it kind of evens out the effect more.

It's like having two 15" woofers in your trunk instead of four 8" woofers for example. The very low vibes are almost overpowering the higher ones sometimes. Maybe I could hook up an inline EQ just for the BST-300EX and tone down the very low frequency vibes if running off of LFE sub-out only. Maybe in Simhub you can control that kind of thing, not sure.

But I think I'm going to install the other Aurasound transducers to "fill out" the vibes more near the 80hz zone. Maybe I can put one under the pedals and one near the rear of rig somehow. Then I can balance them with gain on the separate amps I'll be running. It's pretty crazy how it is now, but only in some cars.
Yeah you'll get 100% control with Simhub over the frequency. Since you're running the full frequency the AVR outputs for LFE you will get the ultra low bass output and yes it depends on the car you're driving AND the track you are on. If thats the case you would be safe to assume that those frequencies would snap bass shaker mounts. But with Simhub you tune each effect only at a certain frequency and you can tailor the amount of output you receive so there's no over excursion on bass output.

I tried the method you were talking about cantilevering the mounting plate but with aluminum being so rigid it didn't have much difference than mounting centered on the 8020. For me it was a matter of lowering the output of the amp vs driving the amp harder to achieve the sensation I needed. Mounting centered I was about 80% volume and mounting on 2 posts cantilevered I'm about 35% volume with lower perceived frequency pulsation if that makes sense. Basically flicking a doorstop while holding the base with one hand or flicking it without holding it and letting it vibrate freely is the only way I can describe the difference.

Anyway you have FAR more output than you will ever need with the 300 watt shaker. It might find its way to your couch in your home theater.
 
Hey all

thought I would share my experience after I spent a bit of time recently installing bass shakers to my playseat challenge , it’s made the whole experience of VR racing into another level.
Have added a Dayton BST-1 bass shaker to the rear leg and another underneath the pedals , so front and rear vibrations.

Just being able to feel the wheels lockup , gear changes and vibration as you go onto the curbs really adds to the immersion, and actually knowing when you loose grip with vibration helps improve your driving.

I was sceptical when I researched this and people saying they couldn’t drive without them after trying them but I’m not in that camp. And all for £130.

Happy to answer any questions.

View attachment 1238150
I just installed the same stuff today seems easy too get overwhelmed at first with too many effects what are the best ones to start with and when is it too many if put in all the obvious ones but seems it’s starting to be too much do you have a picture of settings tour using
 
I just installed the same stuff today seems easy too get overwhelmed at first with too many effects what are the best ones to start with and when is it too many if put in all the obvious ones but seems it’s starting to be too much do you have a picture of settings tour using
If you look back a page in this thread, you will find a link to my write-up about how I installed transducers in my rig. When it comes to configuring SimHub with the various effects, it is totally pointless using someone else’s settings because every rig is different and every shaker attachment point and resonating effect is different. Unless your rig, transducers and attachment methods are exactly the same as those used by the person you are copying from - and I mean exactly right down to the smallest detail - you will feel the vibrations differently. What might be a subtle engine purr for one rig-owner, will be an overwhelming jarring mess of vibrations for another rig owner. You have to take time and set the effects up yourself for your particular scenario. Again, if you read my article, you can understand the process I used to get things right for my particular rig, which you can apply to your particular scenario, which I think will answer your question. You might find it helpful to get you started 😎
 
Hey all

thought I would share my experience after I spent a bit of time recently installing bass shakers to my playseat challenge , it’s made the whole experience of VR racing into another level.
Have added a Dayton BST-1 bass shaker to the rear leg and another underneath the pedals , so front and rear vibrations.

Just being able to feel the wheels lockup , gear changes and vibration as you go onto the curbs really adds to the immersion, and actually knowing when you loose grip with vibration helps improve your driving.

I was sceptical when I researched this and people saying they couldn’t drive without them after trying them but I’m not in that camp. And all for £130.

Happy to answer any questions.

View attachment 1238150
Hey man it's looks very cool, I have a challenge X and T300 and was thinking do the same, can you please share a Pic how you connected the front shaker to the pedals and if you can share the parts I will need for this project? many thanks!
 
Hey all

If we use simhub for a bass shaker on PS5, will we still have to turn on the PC while playing on the PS5 ?

Thanks
 
…that's the USB connection to the PC.
I did the same setup as you with the same hardware, and I was wondering what happens once the setup and programming with simhub are complete!

You'll still need to have the USB cable connected to your PC to use it with the PS5!

I read that this Nobsoud NS-01G Pro has Bluetooth.

Thanks in advance
 
I did the same setup as you with the same hardware, and I was wondering what happens once the setup and programming with simhub are complete!

You'll still need to have the USB cable connected to your PC to use it with the PS5!

I read that this Nobsoud NS-01G Pro has Bluetooth.
Everything needs to stay connected and running while you race. I have found that simhub needs to be restarted almost every time I leave the PC alone for a day or two. So now I just open the laptop, login, and restart simhub as a matter of course. Also, the effects will sometimes stop for a few seconds or more mid-race, then start up again. These things are a pain, but worth the agro for the extra immersion that the whole thing brings.

As for Bluetooth, this is what I say in my article: "One thing I would add is that I noticed a roughly half-second time lag between things happening in the game, and feeling the effect through the transducers. This is a widely reported issue with no common solution. However, I found that connecting to the amp via a USB cable instead of Bluetooth reduced the lag, and then going into the SimHub Settings menu and disabling all Games except GT7, and all Plugins except the Shakeit Bass Shakers, effectively eliminated the lag after a restart."
 
Ok I see, thanks for your answer and your great article !

I also saw people using the 3.5 jack cable what do you think is it more or less the same thing as the usb ?

I have a long 3.5 cable and I was wondering if I could use it, would it be more convenient for me?
 
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Ok I see, thanks for your answer and your great article !

I also saw people using the 3.5 jack cable what do you think is it more or less the same thing as the usb ?

I have a long 3.5 cable and I was wondering if I could use it, would it be more convenient for me?
Thanks for your thanks 👍

Bluetooth, USB or 3.5mm jack - they are all options for sound input to the Nobsound so they should all work, albeit that Bluetooth will be subject to a processing delay of some sort (that's just a fact of life). If you can configure your PC to output the sound to a jack cable then I guess it should work, but I stuck with USB as I had a spare cable and output. Try the jack; see if it works.
 
So the 3.5 jack works I have the impression that there is a mini wait but I think that is normal.

I tried the settings a little and I must be the only ones that convinced me for the moment the gear shift and the road vibrations to feel when we go up on a curbs for example.

Otherwise I have the impression that it only vibrates continuously if we start to add too many parameters!

Does anyone have settings to share?
 
Does anyone have settings to share?
Everybody's rig set-up is going to be different, with each speaker giving unique effects when felt through the seat/pedals/wheel of the particular rig in its particular configuration. There are so many variables involved that it would be pointless just loading up someone else's configuration parameters. But in my article I do explain the process that I followed, that I still use to this day, that gives me excellent and very realistic immersion. It's so good that I don't think about how good it is - I'm just 'there', in the car, driving for real 👍
 
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