- 2,694
- Knoxville, Tennessee
R/C car thread!
- Thread starter Skid Mark 33
- 787 comments
- 128,331 views
- 2,694
- Knoxville, Tennessee
CAMAROBOY69
Premium
- 18,567
- Michigan
- CAMAROBOY69
That looks so dang fun!
- 2,694
- Knoxville, Tennessee
I have always wanted a Tamiya semi, but they were always out of my price range till now. Been tempted to get the Ford Aeromax one sometime...
Anyway more carbon fiber for my HPI Nitro RS4:
Added carbon fiber front and rear shock towers. Also has Tamiya TRF shocks now.
Anyway more carbon fiber for my HPI Nitro RS4:
Added carbon fiber front and rear shock towers. Also has Tamiya TRF shocks now.
- 318
- laserviper
This is my Traxxas R Evo 1/16 just a standard model nothing fancy yet. Once I get my soldering stuff it will be running a dual battery set up so I can have more time out with it. Can't run the battteries in series would destroy the gears and the control units. Ignore the spoiler my younger brothers handy work since it was his to start bought it off him and turned into my project
- 2,694
- Knoxville, Tennessee
Looks like I will probably be getting another R/C touring car soon. Most likely a Associated TC4 Club Racer, which I will set up for Vintage Trans-Am rules (VTA). My local hobby shop just recently started a VTA class for their indoor track. I could re-motor/ESC my Tamiya TA-06 for the class, but for the amount of work (and money) that would require, I would be better off getting another chassis. If I go through with all this, it will be my first time actually trying to race lol...
- 12,122
- Liverpool
- CARBOYXJR
Sorry to bump this, but I have a question.
I got some Yokomo rear wheels for my KF, and I need some fronts. The Yokes are nice and shiny, Schueys are finished in a rough satin white, so when I get some fronts i'm leaning away from them. Firstly, does anybody know if Yokomo do 12mm hex fronts (2wd), and secondly, has anybody got experience with Team C 12mm hex fronts?
I got some Yokomo rear wheels for my KF, and I need some fronts. The Yokes are nice and shiny, Schueys are finished in a rough satin white, so when I get some fronts i'm leaning away from them. Firstly, does anybody know if Yokomo do 12mm hex fronts (2wd), and secondly, has anybody got experience with Team C 12mm hex fronts?
- 246
I recently bought a TT-01E and if the D is anything like it then yes, I would definitely recommend it. It is a very good starter car. The nice thing about it is that you can upgrade it as your needs demand. So if you, like me, live near a proper RC Racing Track, you can run it stock for a while and then upgrade vital suspension components as your skills improve. I am not sure about the "D" but the "E" does not have adjustable Camber or Toe front and rear. The shocks/dampers are also of the friction kind and are not adjustable. Also, the steering components do not use bearings ...which means the steering is not as smooth as it could be. Over time these components at the very least will have to be upgraded/tuned if you want the car to be really good. I have just taken delivery of upgraded TT-01E components from 3Racing ...have a look at their site and you will like how far this chassis (the "E" or "D") can take you.
As for myself, I have 11 cars covering both on-road and off-road. In terms of driving I prefer on-road ...and preferably at a purpose built RC Track which I am lucky to have within 10 kilometers from where I stay. In fact, it is an RC complex which includes a world class 1/8 track, a 1/10 off-road track and, ofcourse, the on-road track where I have competed in National races. Anyway, I am happy there is an RC forum here at GT Planet and will be contributing photos and videos at every opportunity!
As a start, here is the car I used in our Nationals. It is an MTX4-R but I have not raced it in two years. Since then an MTX5 came out so I just might upgrade it soon. These days I do not race though. I build kits because I love building them ...and then driving Time Attack style rather than Shoulder-To-Shoulder. I am not competitive I guess ..
And I bought the Hot Bodies TCXX about three weeks ago. I have not had the time to complete the build but this is where I am so far:
I will be posting more pics of the MTX4-R as I am re-building it (and doing the TCXX at the same time :-))
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- 2,694
- Knoxville, Tennessee
Made a vid of my Exo Terra, might do it again with a better camera tomorrow...
- 2,694
- Knoxville, Tennessee
lol, I dunno how well I could drive on an actual track, seeing as I only ran on an off road track once haha
Anyway here is another vid, this time in HD, along with a few pics:
Anyway here is another vid, this time in HD, along with a few pics:
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- 2,694
- Knoxville, Tennessee
Some new bodies for my Tamiya TA-06:
^ Tamiya GT-86
^ HPI R35 GT-R
^ Tamiya R35 GT1
Still got 3 more bodies I need to work on, along with a 4th on order.
^ Tamiya GT-86
^ HPI R35 GT-R
^ Tamiya R35 GT1
Still got 3 more bodies I need to work on, along with a 4th on order.
- 2,694
- Knoxville, Tennessee
- 12,122
- Liverpool
- CARBOYXJR
Wash it in hot, soapy water first. Allow it to air dry, and don't touch the inside. The body should have an outside film, this should only be peeled off once the shell is completed.
If you want any stripes/designs, or if it doesn't come with window masks, mask them off with Tamiya tape at this point. I would advise though, since it's your first shell, go for a single colour scheme.
I use Tamiya Polycarbonate sprays, I find them the easiest to work with. You'll want a big cardboard box, and put the body in upside down, ready to paint. Make sure you do it outside, or have adequate ventilation.
When you're ready, spray a very, very fine coat each time. This should be no more than a light mist. They each take about an hour to dry, so you should get it done in 2/3 days. When you're finished and happy, you can peel the outer film off.
Finally, if the body needs cutting, use lexan scissors. A number of RC manufacturers sell these. Then apply your decals/stickers (I think Tamiya still do slide on), and use a body reamer (only about $15, they'll serve you well!) to drill the holes for the body posts. Make sure you line it up correctly first.
Then, you should be done.
If you want any stripes/designs, or if it doesn't come with window masks, mask them off with Tamiya tape at this point. I would advise though, since it's your first shell, go for a single colour scheme.
I use Tamiya Polycarbonate sprays, I find them the easiest to work with. You'll want a big cardboard box, and put the body in upside down, ready to paint. Make sure you do it outside, or have adequate ventilation.
When you're ready, spray a very, very fine coat each time. This should be no more than a light mist. They each take about an hour to dry, so you should get it done in 2/3 days. When you're finished and happy, you can peel the outer film off.
Finally, if the body needs cutting, use lexan scissors. A number of RC manufacturers sell these. Then apply your decals/stickers (I think Tamiya still do slide on), and use a body reamer (only about $15, they'll serve you well!) to drill the holes for the body posts. Make sure you line it up correctly first.
Then, you should be done.
- 4,498
- Limburg,Belgium
- (GTP_) dustdriver
That looks wicked. A basic interior instead of the wires and I could be fooled to think it's an actual vehicle.
I think my rc truck is still at a former classmates home.
Does anyone know how hard it is to convert it from nitro to electric? Never got the engine to work properly.
Wiring up the electric motor is easy enough. Coupling it with the transmission is a different problem all together though.
It has a 2 speed transmission + reverse. Would the best solution be to just remove the transmission as well?
- 12,122
- Liverpool
- CARBOYXJR
What truck is it? A lot of popular trucks/buggies have E conversion kits for them.
- 4,498
- Limburg,Belgium
- (GTP_) dustdriver
It's an almost 10 year (not sure) old Jamara Macho 1:8 monster truck. Not a really popular model.
Model is the same as the Trinity Spider
Model is the same as the Trinity Spider
- 4,498
- Limburg,Belgium
- (GTP_) dustdriver
Savage has a similar setup with a vertical chassis and around the same size nitro engine, so might search in that direction.
- 2,694
- Knoxville, Tennessee
Thanks
It has an interior, though I had removed it for easier access. Might put it back in next time I take the buggy apart for maintenance.
Anyway another random pic...
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