R/C car thread!

[TripleA5]

You actually paint them from the inside, if they are lexan (transparent) plastic. You need lexan paint also, as many normal paints don't stick to lexan very well. Bodies come with window masks to mask off the windows for painting. Did the model come with a painting instruction sheet?

yeah it came with the instruction sheet, but do you have any tips on painting them?

 

[Bo]

yeah it came with the instruction sheet, but do you have any tips on painting them?

Read my post

 

[Venom800tt]

And another body...

^ HPI Carrera GT
Doing bodies is fun, even if it is easy to mess them up lol. Just gotta stop being so lazy...

 

[TripleA5]

Read my post

Ah thanks somehow i missed it.

 

[Bo]

It's a bit daunting at first, but if you just follow all the instructions it's fairly simple.

And I can guarantee 99% of failed shells aren't because of a lack of skill, but rushing it

 

[bevo]

yeah it came with the instruction sheet, but do you have any tips on painting them?

Here's something that makes painting much easier if you want to do designs or anything other than 1 color.
http://www.amain.com/product_info.p...d/13913/n/Bob-Dively-Liquid-Masking-Film-4-oz

It's a paste you out in and let dry then just use a razor blade to cut out the sections you want and peel them off. It works a lot better than tape but it is more time consuming. You usually need 3 or so layers if it and unless you put a fan on it to help dry it takes awhile. Using a fan you can do 3 layers in maybe 30 minutes or so and be ready to paint.

There's also countless YouTube videos on painting RC car bodies.

 

[Bo]

Liquid mask is a lot messier and needs a far more steady hand than Tamiya tape.

 

[fortbo]

Who here races 1/8 buggies and 1/10 short course? That is what I race at my local track. I have a Team AE buggy that I modded a brushless motor into. The only stock part is the chassis. That thing hauls! I got it up to 100 by gearing it different. My short course truck is a beast too. It is also a team AE car but again the only stock part is the chassis. It has a custom motor in it and proline powerstroke suspension. I have won tons of races with that car. Both of the bodies are also custom painted by myself. I will post some pics of them soon.

 

[Bo]

Who here races 1/8 buggies and 1/10 short course? That is what I race at my local track. I have a Team AE buggy that I modded a brushless motor into. The only stock part is the chassis. That thing hauls! I got it up to 100 by gearing it different. My short course truck is a beast too. It is also a team AE car but again the only stock part is the chassis. It has a custom motor in it and proline powerstroke suspension. I have won tons of races with that car. Both of the bodies are also custom painted by myself. I will post some pics of them soon.

I race 1/10th Off Road.

Also, SC10, SC10 FT, SC10.1 or SC10 4x4?

 

[bevo]

Liquid mask is a lot messier and needs a far more steady hand than Tamiya tape.

I've never had luck with tape. I've always liked the liquid stuff better but I guess it just depends on what your comfortable with. Anymore I don't use anything. I just slap a single color of paint on it and go race. The bodies don't last long enough for me to put that much work into them.

 

[Bo]

I've never had luck with tape. I've always liked the liquid stuff better but I guess it just depends on what your comfortable with. Anymore I don't use anything. I just slap a single color of paint on it and go race. The bodies don't last long enough for me to put that much work into them.

Same - i'm waiting to get some money for a pro painted version.

 

[bevo]

Same - i'm waiting to get some money for a pro painted version.

I have a few friends that sends theirs off to get painted. They always come back really good. I think it costs them about $30 or so on top of the price of the body. I've also got one friend who just designs a wrap on a site and then they make it for him. Those seem to work really well. It seems like it strengthens the body some and lasts a lot longer than a paint job.

The wraps are for 1/8 scale buggies. I don't know if they make wraps for the on road cars or not.

 

[fortbo]

This is the buggy I race with, it is an older photo, it has different suspension now and more decals.

 

[Bo]

Have you gone to the FT BB's? The ones on the 8.2 are supposed to be excellent.

 

[fortbo]

Have you gone to the FT BB's? The ones on the 8.2 are supposed to be excellent.

Yeah, that is what i have on it. It is basically a factory team car but better now.

 

[Bo]

Pred X10:

 

[fortbo]

Here's my X10:

The pic didn't show up.

 

[bevo]

This is the buggy I race with, it is an older photo, it has different suspension now and more decals.

My first few buggys were rc8. I had the RS and then the rc8B. I switched to a mugen MBX7 last year and am loving it. I never could get the associated setup to handle all that great. I don't know why but I fought that thing like crazy. The MBX7 was great right out of the box for me. I've only made a few small tweaks. It just seems to fit my driving style so much better.

 

[Bo]

My first few buggys were rc8. I had the RS and then the rc8B. I switched to a mugen MBX7 last year and am loving it. I never could get the associated setup to handle all that great. I don't know why but I fought that thing like crazy. The MBX7 was great right out of the box for me. I've only made a few small tweaks. It just seems to fit my driving style so much better.

The SV2 I ran last year was similar. Very fast, but you had to change the setup every week to get it working right.

The pic didn't show up.

Fixed (I hope).

 

[Zychotic1]

seeing alot of nice rides on here....
I've been racing these things for 20yrs now

I'll have to get more pics as the "fleet" has changed significantly since this was taken.

former primary race fleet, lf: NTC3 lc: Bolink LTOPro lr: ESP Clodzilla II c: TA0-5 (was one of 3 in the US when I ordered it they where so new) rf:Bolink Eliminator Wide lc: Tamiya F-103L rr: RC10T3 (set for carpet oval)

also have an old bolink 1/12 scale, 2 Bolink Legends (TONS OF FUN) Tamiya M05, Kyosho Twin force, 3 tamiya Frogs, a 3-racing F-109 and a Cross CF-01 Fireforce
but my favorite has to be my vintage Tamiya Road Wizard


she isnt just a shelf queen, I have actually raced it (and placed 3rd only 1 lap behind) in a couple TCS races against the BRAND NEW chassis and current top 3 in class at the TCS nationals

 

[Venom800tt]

Working on yet another new body...

I most likely will put lights on it, since it is kinda hard to see out on the ramp at work in the middle of the night...

*EDIT*
Lights lol...

*EDIT AGAIN*
Finished the LaBanana body...

 

[JohnyPiston]

Well after years of RC 200mm Nitro Touring Car racing, I have decided to give the whole RC-Drift thing a shot. So out I went and decided on a cheap but upgradeable chassis that could really be lifted to another level with just a couple of parts. After some days of considering my options, I went with the trusty old Tamiya TT-01 and mostly because of the impressive list of hop-ups available for this car. With the right options, this chassis can circuit race against the best of them, or rally just about as good as purpose designed RC cars, or drift all day long till the cows come home and all without braking the bank!

I opted for
• TRF Dampers (some of the best and smoothest RC Touring Car dampers available HANDS DOWN …and this is coming from someone with a Kyosho V-One RRR, Mugen Seiki MTX4-R and Hot Bodies TCXX!),
• Front and rear aluminum adjustable upper links (adjustable for camber)
• Aluminum ball bearing steering rack that includes toe adjustment for the front
• An aluminum main drive shaft
• Front and rear universal axles
• Front and rear aluminum suspension blocks
• A steel motor mount
• 17.5 Novak Brushless System

Even when you add all that up, it is still cheaper than getting a top electric TC car like a Hot Bodies TCXX or an XRAY T4 and yet you can go and race against such cars with this “humble” TT-01. Ofcourse, all the upgrades were done for performance reasons and the only thing I bought for bling (which any genuine drift car MUST have some of) is an aluminum YeahRacing battery holder.

Anyway, when it came to bodies, there was nowhere else I would ever have wanted to go other than Yokomo. They seem to own the rights to D1 in Japan and make some of the most amazing shells of the official D1 cars. Below is just one shot that I took this morning but it fails to show the exquisite details like the little carbon fibre winglets at the rear of the car …or the actual exhaust system that you need to assemble and add to the car. Putting these bodies together is a build on its own and is awesome. Here is my nearly completed Team Samurai FC3S 1/10 replica:

 

[JohnyPiston]

I am not sure if this is seen as a double post since to me it seems unrelated to the previous post. If it is, then my immediate apologies.

I was lucky enough to pick up a set (x4) of these beauties yesterday :-).

I am hoping to find an R32/R33/R34 body for them ...or maybe a GD/GG Impreza ...like so

 

[Bo]

@JohnyPiston here's a bugeye with RS05RR's (scratch that, 57Xtreme's, stupid angle) you might like to see...

The body is actually from a cheap Chinese toy, but sanded, modified and touched up a little.

(Scratch that too, apparently Tamiya did a short run of them, so you might be able to grab one!)

 

[JohnyPiston]

@JohnyPiston here's a bugeye with RS05RR's (scratch that, 57Xtreme's, stupid angle) you might like to see...

The body is actually from a cheap Chinese toy, but sanded, modified and touched up a little.

(Scratch that too, apparently Tamiya did a short run of them, so you might be able to grab one!)

OH yes! Me like ....me like VERY much!

 

[JohnyPiston]

Getting ready for a club race this coming weekend. Have not raced all year and figured I would just go out and have some fun. Such a pity these 200mm Nitro racing chassis look so messy after use. In clean form they just look absolutely amazing ...

 

[RenoRanes007]

Can't believe I haven't seen this thread before now, I've got a few cars, I used to have loads but I was spending silly money on them so got rid of most but my few favorites.

I'll post one up for now and get to the others later.

Rubbish photos I know, they were just taken quickly while I was painting and building it, I'll see what I can do about taking some proper ones.

Painted:

Fitting:

Window tint and proper wheels on:

Scanner installed and working:

 

[Zychotic1]

LOVE the KITT

 

[RenoRanes007]

Here's another I did about 4 years ago to pass the boredom while I was in hospital for a couple months.

2010 Sandscorcher.

I built and set up everything on my Hospital Table:

I then had to blag a day leave to go home and spray the body, fit the alloy parts I had ordered from my hospital bed and generally finish it off.

Alloy Front Cage, Alloy Rear Cage, Alloy Exhaust and later Wheels:

 

[jimipitbull]

Bought a HSP Monster Truck for my dog to chase around the dog park. For a cheap, ready to run... well it cops a hiding and holds up quite well.