RIDOX Replica Garage-In Memory of TurnLeft-GT40,300ZX,F430,TVR,AEM S2000,Cizeta,TransAm Doug Nash

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@lilcat89 you are correct! The ratios do not match. However, if you reset the Custom Transmission and then move the Final Gear to 4.250 and set Maximum Speed to 155 you will be able to set Ridox's gear ratios. He didn't provide a 6th gear, so I just set mine to 1.000...

This car is crazy on CM tires! :lol:
 
@lilcat89 you are correct! The ratios do not match. However, if you reset the Custom Transmission and then move the Final Gear to 4.250 and set Maximum Speed to 155 you will be able to set Ridox's gear ratios. He didn't provide a 6th gear, so I just set mine to 1.000...

This car is crazy on CM tires! :lol:

It's almost undriveable on CSs. The 6th gear ratio is like .930 or something like that. I need to take it to Laguna for a lap.

BMW E82 1M Coupe Replica
135i Coupe version

Tuned to replicate BMW E82 1M Coupe
Comfort Soft




CAR : BMW 135i Coupe '07
Tire : Comfort Soft


Specs Heaviest Running Weight
Horsepower: 335 HP at 5800 RPM
Torque : 331.4 ft-lb at 2800 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.9%
Weight: 1611 kg
Ballast : 61 kg
Ballast Position : -50
Weight Distribution : 52 / 48 - as close as possible to 51.7/48.3
Performance Points: 468

GT AUTO
Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED IN THIS BUILD )
Wheels : +1 Inch Up BBS RE-MG in Silver Chrome
Car Paint : White


Tuning Parts Installed :
Intake Tuning
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Suspension
Window Weight Reduction



Suspension -
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 132 132
Spring Rate: 3.98 13.47
Dampers (Compression): 7 3
Dampers (Extension): 5 2
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 0.5 1.8
Toe Angle: 0.13 0.15




LSD - 1.5 way M Differential Lock LSD
Initial Torque : 20
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 13


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION -Corrected 1M Gearing and Final from 2011 model year
Install all power parts
Set Default
Set Auto Max Speed at 330kmh / 205mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 4.110
2nd 2.315
3rd 1.542
4th 1.179
5th 1.000
6th 0.846
Set Final : 2.910 - corrected final to account for the wheel size difference.



Brake Balance:
4/5 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 4/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance. I recommend to run 1 click higher at the rear.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 4/5 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :


Notes coming soon

My last play was racing at expert level FR seasonal at Willow Springs, driving my BMW 1 Series M coupe replica ( new build ) on CS with mere 466PP ( worn oil 330HP, 1600+kg, yellow worn chassis ) :eek: managed to win by doing BTCC style battle against the leader ( C7 Stingray ), got the lead in lap 5 1st turn, but the crazy ass mofo C7 AI is within my tailpipe until the last turn to finish, he pulled several bumping move, tried to pit me from inside, and the last turn, he tried to ram from the side on exit. I failed several times battling in the last turn and came in 2nd, but the last one, I became aggressive and hold the inside, blocking his line, he got crazy swerving left and right like hyper dog, and I had to keep blocking till finish line :lol:

The BMW 1 Series M coupe replica did consistent low 1:30s lap, and will need to finish the race in less than 8:10s time :P It's a real driver test race, where smooth is quick and passing is tricky to pull, especially on the 5th to 2nd car ( in packs ) and the leader C7 which can only be passed by doing late braking pass on last lap 1st turn, Gan-san / Motoharu Kurosawa style from Best Motoring ( get into the inside of his door side and held it to pass as you exit, forcing him to go wide and back off ) :D If the driver missed this chance to pass, it will be near impossible to pass the leader as the rest of the lap, even if the BMW can get close on corner entry, on the high speed corners and exit, the C7 will simply pull away with sheer power even if the BMW can draft within a car length.

I don't know if I'm getting slower or haven't run Laguna in awhile, but I'm some 2 seconds slower in this than the ohlins equipped E82 1M. I might have to build one based on the Concept tii. It drives great though.
 
It's almost undriveable on CSs. The 6th gear ratio is like .930 or something like that. I need to take it to Laguna for a lap.



I don't know if I'm getting slower or haven't run Laguna in awhile, but I'm some 2 seconds slower in this than the ohlins equipped E82 1M. I might have to build one based on the Concept tii. It drives great though.

The latest replica of BMW 1M has heaviest running weight at 1611kg :) The old Ohlins 1M has more likely empty weight from BMW :) You can use Ohlins 1M weight on the newer version to get much quicker lap time :P

McLaren F1
Best Motoring Tsukuba Lap

Tuned to replicate McLaren F1
Comfort Medium to Sports Medium




CAR : McLaren F1 '94
Tire : Comfort Medium to Sports Medium



Specs Running Weight ( Heaviest )
Horsepower: 618 HP at 7400 RPM
Torque: 480.2 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.7%
Weight: 1260 kg
Ballast : 200 kg
Ballast Position : 38
Weight Distribution : 42 / 58 - closer to 41.2 / 58.8
Performance Points: 599





GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT Installed in this build )
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : Black or White or any color.


Tuning Parts Installed :
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Adjustable LSD
Weight Reduction Stage 2



Suspension -

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 105 105
Spring Rate: 6.19 8.64
Dampers (Compression): 6 8
Dampers (Extension): 4 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 1.5 0.5
Toe Angle: 0.02 0.15



DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Corrected Ratios
Install all power parts
Set Default
Set Final to 4.649
Set Auto Max Speed at 250kmh/155mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.230
2nd 2.190
3rd 1.710
4th 1.390
5th 1.160
6th 0.930
Set Final 3.010 - assuming 1.27 transfer gear ratio

-Alternate Final 2.880 ( Pcars final drive ). The 2.880 is final drive from Pcars, not really accurate, with only top speed at 221mph at 7500RPM closely replicated but much easier on the driver on lower gears.

For reference , the Car & Driver Test :
1st 62 mph/7500rpm
2nd 91mph/7500rpm
3rd 116mph/7500rpm
4th 143mph/7500rpm
5th 174mph/7500rpm
6th 221mph/7500rpm

Road car redline is 7500RPM.




LSD 2 way 40% Lock
Initial Torque : 16
Acceleration Sensitivity: 24
Braking Sensitivity: 24


AERO
Front : 200 ( Fixed )
Rear : 450 ( Fixed )



Brake Balance:
4/4 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 4/4, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 4/4 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :

Coming Soon



UPDATE : Fixed the transmission setup, used 3.010 final with previous 2.880 final as alternative value.

I have made some correction on the McLaren F1 transmission setup, sorry, I must have been half sleeping when I wrote it.
 
I'd love to hear feedback from the Ridox Regulars -- those of you who have built the McLaren F1 replica, how did you do with the Comfort Medium tire compound? I'll be honest...I ditched CM for Comfort Soft after four laps around Red Bull Ring. I spun the car at almost every single corner! :grumpy: It was unbelievable...truly. :mad: The car demands 100% focus - and that's totally fine...but I feel the car behaves a lot better with CS tires slapped on the rims. You still have to be very careful on turn in...

So, what are your thoughts on the Comfort Medium tire compound on that McLaren F1?
 
Boy...I just ran 2 laps around Nordschleife with the McLaren F1 replica build. I was running with Comfort Soft tires and I still couldn't come close to the real life record time for that car: 7:11.000 :eek: I had a couple hiccups on each lap, but nothing substantial. I didn't spin or anything like that. I just can't push this car with these tires... OMG, I wouldn't even attempt a lap around the Nordschleife on CM tires... :crazy: :lol: Anyway...I hope all the regulars are going to build this car. It is one of those cars - you've just gotta own one...or two...or three!! :sly:
 
I'd love to hear feedback from the Ridox Regulars -- those of you who have built the McLaren F1 replica, how did you do with the Comfort Medium tire compound? I'll be honest...I ditched CM for Comfort Soft after four laps around Red Bull Ring. I spun the car at almost every single corner! :grumpy: It was unbelievable...truly. :mad: The car demands 100% focus - and that's totally fine...but I feel the car behaves a lot better with CS tires slapped on the rims. You still have to be very careful on turn in...

So, what are your thoughts on the Comfort Medium tire compound on that McLaren F1?

The CM tire was used to get close to the real car lap at Tsukuba at 1:04.62, offline on CM, the F1 did 1:03s, with realistic driving pace, so with tire wear, that would be very close at 1:04s. It needs concentration just like the real car, it's light and powerful after all :)

Boy...I just ran 2 laps around Nordschleife with the McLaren F1 replica build. I was running with Comfort Soft tires and I still couldn't come close to the real life record time for that car: 7:11.000 :eek: I had a couple hiccups on each lap, but nothing substantial. I didn't spin or anything like that. I just can't push this car with these tires... OMG, I wouldn't even attempt a lap around the Nordschleife on CM tires... :crazy: :lol: Anyway...I hope all the regulars are going to build this car. It is one of those cars - you've just gotta own one...or two...or three!! :sly:

The green hell lap in real life might have been done on road legal semi slick, who knows :D

Good news, I just won the 500PP Expert seasonal at Big Willow with the BMW 1M replica ( 135i Coupe version ) at 335HP, 1611kg, 468PP, on CS tire, the 2nd car was hot on my rear bumper to finish line, he tried to pit me several times on the last lap, talk about dirty Bob :P :lol: He couldn't get closer on the first half of the last lap. Managed several 1:29s lap at Big Willow :D

Last lap, last half, the dirty Bob attacks :

Willow Springs International Raceway - Big Willow_98.jpg


And I went offroad and tried my best to get back on the tarmac to keep leading :

Willow Springs International Raceway - Big Willow_99.jpg


Another attempt to get me off the race, right before entering the last turn to finish :

Willow Springs International Raceway - Big Willow_100.jpg


This time, I managed to stay on the inside line and maintain the best possible speed to finish line with the crazy Bob hot on my tail.

Willow Springs International Raceway - Big Willow_103.jpg
 
Wow...Very nice driving, Ridox! Where did you go off the track (from the photo you provided)? Was that Turn 1? I've gone off the track at Turn 1 several times from going into the turn too hot.
 
Wow...Very nice driving, Ridox! Where did you go off the track (from the photo you provided)? Was that Turn 1? I've gone off the track at Turn 1 several times from going into the turn too hot.

I went off on the high speed right curve before the last turn :) It was very lucky save, and I managed to get back on the road quick enough to prevent the 8C passing me. The 8C did it again soon after that as can be seen on the next picture.
 
I went off on the high speed right curve before the last turn :) It was very lucky save, and I managed to get back on the road quick enough to prevent the 8C passing me. The 8C did it again soon after that as can be seen on the next picture.
Ah, yes...I know exactly where you are talking about. Wow. That's impressive -- getting back onto the track, from that area, and not losing the lead is quite impressive. This is something that bugs me to no end with the AI drivers. Whenever I drive a severely under-powered car for a Seasonal Event, the computer AI drivers always try to pit maneuver me, like in your photo. They've spun me quite a few times. :mad:
 
I went off on the high speed right curve before the last turn :) It was very lucky save, and I managed to get back on the road quick enough to prevent the 8C passing me. The 8C did it again soon after that as can be seen on the next picture.
That sort of driving by the AI makes me want to give Bob a close-up view of my fist & several of the sharp items in my toolbox :mad:
I like playing fair until they start this sort of crap then the red mist descends & it's all bets are off. Wanna play rough eh :mischievous:
I can remember in GT5 during the Tsukuba 9hr the Amuse S2000 GT1 got too touchy feely. I had a lead of several laps so spent well over a lap performing pit manoeuvres on him until he lost 2nd place :lol:
 
Ah, yes...I know exactly where you are talking about. Wow. That's impressive -- getting back onto the track, from that area, and not losing the lead is quite impressive. This is something that bugs me to no end with the AI drivers. Whenever I drive a severely under-powered car for a Seasonal Event, the computer AI drivers always try to pit maneuver me, like in your photo. They've spun me quite a few times. :mad:

That sort of driving by the AI makes me want to give Bob a close-up view of my fist & several of the sharp items in my toolbox :mad:
I like playing fair until they start this sort of crap then the red mist descends & it's all bets are off. Wanna play rough eh :mischievous:
I can remember in GT5 during the Tsukuba 9hr the Amuse S2000 GT1 got too touchy feely. I had a lead of several laps so spent well over a lap performing pit manoeuvres on him until he lost 2nd place :lol:

The aggressive AI is a real pain if using dirty tactics, I saw how they drive, the speeds are slightly quicker than the other rabbits, but somehow PD gave the AI hot head, and seems to ignore my presence. It would be fair if they can also spin or have realistic car collision physics. I tried to pit the lead once, and I actually bounced away with loss of traction, while the AI car is not reacting at all and keep on going.
 
TAISAN StarCard Ferrari F40 GT/LM F120AB #34 & #40
JGTC 1994-1995
2:10.637 at Suzuka 1995

Special Build Replica TAISAN Ferrari F40 JGTC
Sports Medium




CAR : Ferrari F40 '92
Tire : Sports Medium

Specs - JGTC Spec

Horsepower: 471 HP / 478 PS at 7000 RPM
Torque: 425.2 ft-lb at 4000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1200 kg ( JGTC Min Weight )
Ballast : 88 kg
Ballast Position : 11
Weight Distribution : 40 / 60
Performance Points: 538


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Wheels : +1 Inch Up ENKEI RP03 Type RC in Black
Car Paint : Rosso Corsa or Black
Car Number
Base Type C
Typeface Type A
Number 40 or 34



Tuning Parts Installed :
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Twin Plate Clutch Kit
Adjustable LSD
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Window Weight Reduction


Suspension
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 81 101 ( track lowered)
Spring Rate: 8.04 11.69
Dampers (Compression): 7 6
Dampers (Extension): 7 7
Anti-Roll Bars: 5 6
Camber Angle: 2.0 1.2
Toe Angle: 0.16 0.23


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Ferrari FISA/CSAI Homologated Close Ratio Gear Set and Final F40 LM / GT
Install all power parts
Set Default
Set Final to 4.662
Set Auto Max Speed to 220kmh / 137mph ( lowest )
Adjust each gear :
1st 2.727
2nd 1.929
3rd 1.471
4th 1.211
5th 1.050
Final Gear : 2.949 - Calculated effective final taking into account idler gear ( special close ratio spec )
Optimum Shift Point : 7400-7700 RPM ( as in real life )


LSD -ZF Self Locking LSD with 60% Lock and Medium Preload
Initial Torque : 30
Acceleration Sensitivity: 36
Braking Sensitivity: 36


AERO
Rear = 50 ( fixed )




Brake Balance:
7/6 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 6/4, for ABS 1 7/6 or feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :
Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 7/6 brake balance as starting point.



Notes :

Coming Soon.


ENJOY :cheers:

Hey Ridox
Great setup.
Can you try to creat the big F40 LM with 750HP and the Ferrari 288 Evoluzione (i know the curb weight isn't possible)?

thank you very much
 
The CM tire was used to get close to the real car lap at Tsukuba at 1:04.62, offline on CM, the F1 did 1:03s, with realistic driving pace, so with tire wear, that would be very close at 1:04s. It needs concentration just like the real car, it's light and powerful after all :)



The green hell lap in real life might have been done on road legal semi slick, who knows :D

Good news, I just won the 500PP Expert seasonal at Big Willow with the BMW 1M replica ( 135i Coupe version ) at 335HP, 1611kg, 468PP, on CS tire, the 2nd car was hot on my rear bumper to finish line, he tried to pit me several times on the last lap, talk about dirty Bob :P :lol: He couldn't get closer on the first half of the last lap. Managed several 1:29s lap at Big Willow :D

Last lap, last half, the dirty Bob attacks :

View attachment 385105

And I went offroad and tried my best to get back on the tarmac to keep leading :

View attachment 385106

Another attempt to get me off the race, right before entering the last turn to finish :

View attachment 385107

This time, I managed to stay on the inside line and maintain the best possible speed to finish line with the crazy Bob hot on my tail.

View attachment 385108
:lol: Great job. 👍
 
Hey Ridox
Great setup.
Can you try to creat the big F40 LM with 750HP and the Ferrari 288 Evoluzione (i know the curb weight isn't possible)?

thank you very much

The Taisan F40 is a F40 LM detuned for JGTC, simply increase power to LM full power for the F40 LM. The 288 Evo would be very hard to drive if I were to built it, the real car has lots of aero addition, the GT6 road car is not. I could try built one :P
 
Hi @Ridox2JZGTE , I came on this small problem while working on my Civic '97 test car, I've added finding the fuel tank capacity for my tuned cars and for this one I'm getting 101 L, but when I check from the manufactures specs it's 45 liters, quite a hefty difference, have you come across similar data?
 
Hi @Ridox2JZGTE , I came on this small problem while working on my Civic '97 test car, I've added finding the fuel tank capacity for my tuned cars and for this one I'm getting 101 L, but when I check from the manufactures specs it's 45 liters, quite a hefty difference, have you come across similar data?
101 litres in a Civic :eek:
That'd leave no room for the shopping or the backseat driver :lol:
 
Hi @Ridox2JZGTE , I came on this small problem while working on my Civic '97 test car, I've added finding the fuel tank capacity for my tuned cars and for this one I'm getting 101 L, but when I check from the manufactures specs it's 45 liters, quite a hefty difference, have you come across similar data?

All GT6 cars when tire wear enabled, have 101L fuel tank, it's silly, but that's what PD does :lol:
 
101 litres in a Civic :eek:
That'd leave no room for the shopping or the backseat driver :lol:
:lol:

All GT6 cars when tire wear enabled, have 101L fuel tank, it's silly, but that's what PD does :lol:
Well thanks a lot, now I won't have to drive in circles at Daytona until I run out of fuel again :lol:. I'm kind of disappointed and happy at the same time, less work :D but less real :grumpy:.
 
So when fuel consumption and tire wear are enabled, if with fuel tank the car weights for example 900kg, if the fuel tank is half way empty does the car weight less or does it stay at 900kg?

I think they are not liters, 100 represents just the 100% tank capacity...

Mmm, 100% sounds plausible, but when I ran out it always listed at 101 to full :confused: So, maybe 1% is reserve fuel ? Real cars usually have reserve at about 10% capacity.

Fuel weight only simulated when tire wear is on, so half tank would be car weight + half fuel weight :) When offline ( arcade time trial and test drive ), the cars are always on empty tank weight ( even when it says full ). The difference can be felt when the same car brought online with tire wear, the car will feel a bit heavier/slower due to the added weight compared to against when offline :) Usually the time difference in lap time is close to a second. Once the car on online with tire wear has about 10%-20% fuel, and fresh tire, the lap time can be very close to offline time ( about a tenth or 2 )
 
Maybe we can try to use one car with known fuel tank capacity, calculate the full fuel tank weight, and drive the car offline, then compare to online with tire wear on full tank. Try to match the lap time using offline car + added ballast ( amount to the full tank weight ) If the ballast needed to make the car as slow as online is very close to the real car full tank fuel weight, then 100% is indeed correct. Maybe @TurnLeft can do this ?
 
So, maybe 1% is reserve fuel ?

This is what I think. ;)

Or just that 1 because of running under actual fuel amount, but game won't let it go more than -1 and keeps that 80 kmh limit on speed.
But also when going on normal refuel game suggest full it top minus 1, you have to move manually slider 1 more to get topped tank.

Percentages sounds nice, but then when comparing different about same performance level car you'll see huge differences how quickly they'll drain tank..
Maybe testing with really light car this question can be solved...
Dreaming day when PD makes manual to this game. :)
 
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