Sardegna Leaderboard: Grind Times for 45 Cars, Strategies, Tunes & FAQ's (post 1.31)
- Thread starter BobDx123
- 595 comments
- 153,621 views
Under 23 minutes is nothing short of incredible, I can’t break 24 minutes yet and I have done exactly one lap under 1:30 and it was the Escudo at FM2 which is not sustainable for even 5 laps much less the 8 laps necessary for a one stop race. Oh well I have fun anyway. If I really wanted to get better I would probably benefit from doing things other than grinding, but there are still a few cars left to buy so one thing at a time.
- 5
- United States
I know the feeling. I'm new to GT7 and thank god the Nissan R92CP was just on sale at Hagerty's. I'm using RealPlonker setup it works better for me since I'm running automatic instead of manual with my set up at home. My best run was 23:41.570 I might be able to get it down to 23:30:000 with this set up. I have to use FM3 for the first 8 laps then FM 2 next 5 the FM1 last 2. I may try using the clutch and shifting this weekend but it's an odd feeling sitting at a desk. Not like sitting in my 2008 Honda Fit with a manual 5 speed.
- 9
- England
Sorry about the dump, got a bit burnt out for a while. I kind of want to try out more readily available cars since all the top contenders are LCD cars.
R92CP - New PB, using Turbodatsun's Soft Tyre setup but with the Diff Acceleration turned up to 45 and slightly shorter gearing. Less power + Soft tyres can handle the changes. I think it might be faster, I'm just a few tenths off as a driver?
F1500/RB - Both seem quite similar, so detuned that they're quite stable + easy to drive. But they have to get nerfed to around 500bhp so they lose way too much time on the straights to be particularly fast. Both are tyre wear monsters but unfortunately, you need to pit for fuel anyway. The wind wasn't as kind during the RB run
Audi - Seems to have a slight edge over the RB/F1500. Manual DRS is required to get the most out of it though, not as planted either.
BRZ - Not much good, not particularly surprising but don't think I'll bother with the other Gr.3s.
Jeep - Sorry, but had to do it after swapping the Engine. Surprised it's capable of sub 26 considering it caps out at 667pp!
R92CP - New PB, using Turbodatsun's Soft Tyre setup but with the Diff Acceleration turned up to 45 and slightly shorter gearing. Less power + Soft tyres can handle the changes. I think it might be faster, I'm just a few tenths off as a driver?
F1500/RB - Both seem quite similar, so detuned that they're quite stable + easy to drive. But they have to get nerfed to around 500bhp so they lose way too much time on the straights to be particularly fast. Both are tyre wear monsters but unfortunately, you need to pit for fuel anyway. The wind wasn't as kind during the RB run
Audi - Seems to have a slight edge over the RB/F1500. Manual DRS is required to get the most out of it though, not as planted either.
BRZ - Not much good, not particularly surprising but don't think I'll bother with the other Gr.3s.
Jeep - Sorry, but had to do it after swapping the Engine. Surprised it's capable of sub 26 considering it caps out at 667pp!
Attachments
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- 108
- cessnock/nsw/australia
- Turbodatsun
Great times realplonker the soft tyre tune should improve with more tuning especially with the gearbox setting as the soft tyres hook up so much better then the mediums should be able to lower the gears to get more acceleration, same with the diff settings. Someone on reddit got down to a 22:42:9 with different suspension setting so they could be adjusted as well. I haven’t been able to play for a few days but keen to test some more cars
- 108
- cessnock/nsw/australia
- Turbodatsun
Yeah its crazy how bad the 962 is with fuel its like you need to lower the hp alot to get it low enough to be somewhat manageable but then it kill you on the straights
So I started writing a fairly lengthy reply to address a large number of the posts that have come in lately. Unfortunately it’s taken a long time and got sidetracked with other things… I’m aware there’s a number of things missing in this quick post.
I copy/pasted what I was writing before elsewhere in the meantime, hope to finish sometime soon.
Anyway I wanted to touch on a couple quick things in the interim.
I posted in a new thread the other day about tuning adjustments in Time Trials. In the event some of you missed it, it’s about using the event setting to mimick the tire wear, fuel usage and weight change from gas tank in the event so you can get an accurate representation of how it will drive when going out to race. Doing this also opens the fuel map adjustments that were previously unavailable.
This became an issue after 1.31 changed the tire physics changed dramatically.
———-
@RealPlonker Great job with a large slew of new cars. I did add all of them to the few leaderboards on the first page.
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@miumiu_china & @peniu Welcome to the thread; good times you both have been posting. happy to see you contributing
—-
@BeerRun So two quick thinbgs
1. the Racing Trans is supposed to be a sequential, no clutch needed (for others either) and paddles are the ideal choice. A Sequential does not engage or pass any neutral gears through the its progression, allowing nonstop power to be delivered between gear changes (which technically should only go up/down 1 gear at a time). You can observe the difference between the regular manual and racing trans directly as the former actually drops speed for each shift, eg. If you shift up from 2nd at 130mph, you will enter 3rd gear ~ 127mph with a slow transition. The Race Trans maintains power through the shift and begins the next gear at the same speed or better and initiates + completes the shift much faster. Both of these can be observed with full throttle the entire time.
2. As stated by @TussMBox, regardless of the shifter used the clutch is unnecessary and choosing manual over auto wil save time. It’s superior in every way, including the ability to “short shift”.
** Aside from “short shifting” for fuel, Automatics often do NOT necessarily shift at the best time for power either. Every car is different, and tuning can change when the optimal time to shift is to best utilize the power band. Sometimes the extreme drop off in power at high rpm will make the car significantly slower if brought up too high, so rather than short shift, it just becomes the “correct shift”
** Manual gear selecting also allows for far greater control in braking & turning. Quickly upshifting/downshifting can alter the trajectory pre & mid turn turn. eg. downshifting helps the car turn in more; upshifting like adding throttle can help straighten the line
** Lastly, there are times when we want to quickly upshift to control excess power to prevent or stop wheel spin. Sometimes this is necessary and an automatic would select 1st gear because of current speed where 2nd gear would be superior. It also allows you to be in the optimal gear coming out of a turn as well.
————
@Turbodatsun @TUSMBOX @Grimm6Jack
Regarding the 962C and C9:
Although they both are gas guzzlers, they also have Mid-Turbos and much more versatile power-band than the R92CP with gobs of torque coming in at lower rpm’s.
I was thinking it may be possible to take advantage of this with longer gear ratios allowing them to spend majority of time in the (5,000??-7,000??) range while mostly avoiding high rpm’s (except near top speed) to help offset the fuel consumption.
IDK if it can be balanced perfectly, but may be an avenue worth exploring. Just figured I’d bring it up as an alternate idea
I copy/pasted what I was writing before elsewhere in the meantime, hope to finish sometime soon.
Anyway I wanted to touch on a couple quick things in the interim.
I posted in a new thread the other day about tuning adjustments in Time Trials. In the event some of you missed it, it’s about using the event setting to mimick the tire wear, fuel usage and weight change from gas tank in the event so you can get an accurate representation of how it will drive when going out to race. Doing this also opens the fuel map adjustments that were previously unavailable.
This became an issue after 1.31 changed the tire physics changed dramatically.
———-
@RealPlonker Great job with a large slew of new cars. I did add all of them to the few leaderboards on the first page.
—-
@miumiu_china & @peniu Welcome to the thread; good times you both have been posting. happy to see you contributing
—-
@BeerRun So two quick thinbgs
1. the Racing Trans is supposed to be a sequential, no clutch needed (for others either) and paddles are the ideal choice. A Sequential does not engage or pass any neutral gears through the its progression, allowing nonstop power to be delivered between gear changes (which technically should only go up/down 1 gear at a time). You can observe the difference between the regular manual and racing trans directly as the former actually drops speed for each shift, eg. If you shift up from 2nd at 130mph, you will enter 3rd gear ~ 127mph with a slow transition. The Race Trans maintains power through the shift and begins the next gear at the same speed or better and initiates + completes the shift much faster. Both of these can be observed with full throttle the entire time.
2. As stated by @TussMBox, regardless of the shifter used the clutch is unnecessary and choosing manual over auto wil save time. It’s superior in every way, including the ability to “short shift”.
** Aside from “short shifting” for fuel, Automatics often do NOT necessarily shift at the best time for power either. Every car is different, and tuning can change when the optimal time to shift is to best utilize the power band. Sometimes the extreme drop off in power at high rpm will make the car significantly slower if brought up too high, so rather than short shift, it just becomes the “correct shift”
** Manual gear selecting also allows for far greater control in braking & turning. Quickly upshifting/downshifting can alter the trajectory pre & mid turn turn. eg. downshifting helps the car turn in more; upshifting like adding throttle can help straighten the line
** Lastly, there are times when we want to quickly upshift to control excess power to prevent or stop wheel spin. Sometimes this is necessary and an automatic would select 1st gear because of current speed where 2nd gear would be superior. It also allows you to be in the optimal gear coming out of a turn as well.
————
@Turbodatsun @TUSMBOX @Grimm6Jack
Regarding the 962C and C9:
Although they both are gas guzzlers, they also have Mid-Turbos and much more versatile power-band than the R92CP with gobs of torque coming in at lower rpm’s.
I was thinking it may be possible to take advantage of this with longer gear ratios allowing them to spend majority of time in the (5,000??-7,000??) range while mostly avoiding high rpm’s (except near top speed) to help offset the fuel consumption.
IDK if it can be balanced perfectly, but may be an avenue worth exploring. Just figured I’d bring it up as an alternate idea
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- 108
- cessnock/nsw/australia
- Turbodatsun
Good idea short shifting the 962, you’re right it has bucket loads of torque down low it could work to extend the stint long enough
- 119
- United States
- TUSMBOX
2 stopper, FM2... I think. New tires each stop, and I spun at least thrice. Not my best driving.
2 stopper, FM4, same tires for the whole race. This car was far more stable than I remember.
2 stopper, FM6, one tire change. Hybrid lasted less than 5 laps.
1 stopper, FM1, no tire changes. Very straightforward.
- 108
- cessnock/nsw/australia
- Turbodatsun
- 177
- Poland
- Cheetack
It took a couple of attempts but here it is, my ticket to the 22 club 😎
@Turbodatsun Thanks for sharing your tune for the R92CP!
@Turbodatsun Thanks for sharing your tune for the R92CP!
Hey Guys, Good stuff…
We now have some loose benchmark times ranging 22:44 to 26 minutes from 23 cars in a variety of classes, with models span nearly five decades. Hopefully others can create goals for a certain timeframe to be within, whether that’s finishing only 20 seconds behind a leader, achieving the same time or surpassing what’s posted.
Of course, no pressure, some drive at a very different pace than others and I think it’s important to have times that represent ALL drivers, at various experience levels. Please do not feel discouraged from submitting times that are slower/different than what’s been posted. They are just as important as there will be likely more members who goals that would be more inline with.
For those new to the thread, all of the cars and times can be found within the first post on page 1.
- There are 3 current lists that are constantly being updated.
1) 25 Fastest Cars in Order
2) A List of all Times for Each Posted by Members
3) A Organized list of all cars by group (alphabetically) and their fastest time
@peniu Welcome to the 22 Club
@Turbodatsun Nice TT, sup fast. I’ve been meaning to ask you what you regularly achieve there. I’ve got 1:27.2 with some mid 1:27’s being more regular. I think I can get lower once I have this nailed for the controller. Those times I was forced to take very slow turns or the under steer sends me straight back. I haven’t found a balance yet, when I’m able to tune for better/faster turns, speed is lost elsewhere. Plan to keep revisiting it until I can figure it out
BTW, Are you running TT on normal setting or is that with tire wear + fuel turned on?
@TUSMBOX great times and variety. Plus, your keeping me busy with the spreadsheets …lol
We now have some loose benchmark times ranging 22:44 to 26 minutes from 23 cars in a variety of classes, with models span nearly five decades. Hopefully others can create goals for a certain timeframe to be within, whether that’s finishing only 20 seconds behind a leader, achieving the same time or surpassing what’s posted.
Of course, no pressure, some drive at a very different pace than others and I think it’s important to have times that represent ALL drivers, at various experience levels. Please do not feel discouraged from submitting times that are slower/different than what’s been posted. They are just as important as there will be likely more members who goals that would be more inline with.
For those new to the thread, all of the cars and times can be found within the first post on page 1.
- There are 3 current lists that are constantly being updated.
1) 25 Fastest Cars in Order
2) A List of all Times for Each Posted by Members
3) A Organized list of all cars by group (alphabetically) and their fastest time
@peniu Welcome to the 22 Club
@Turbodatsun Nice TT, sup fast. I’ve been meaning to ask you what you regularly achieve there. I’ve got 1:27.2 with some mid 1:27’s being more regular. I think I can get lower once I have this nailed for the controller. Those times I was forced to take very slow turns or the under steer sends me straight back. I haven’t found a balance yet, when I’m able to tune for better/faster turns, speed is lost elsewhere. Plan to keep revisiting it until I can figure it out
BTW, Are you running TT on normal setting or is that with tire wear + fuel turned on?
@TUSMBOX great times and variety. Plus, your keeping me busy with the spreadsheets …lol
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- 108
- cessnock/nsw/australia
- Turbodatsun
Yeah the 1:26 laps are just with normal settings which i think is un-achievable in the race, but the thing is i could hit restart with no adjustments and with the wind slightly different i can only get low 1:27s, i tried the other day with a controller and could barely get close to 1:28s so i think there is an advantage with wheel on sardegna as slightly too much understeer can result in tenths of a second loss in just one corner
Yeah the wind is definitely a big factor. Are you experiencing changes without exiting in TT & event? In TT I’ve only noticed changes if I exit the course completely and in the event if a race was either completed or exited (of course in the event it changes during the race), ie. if I started a race and hit retry during the 1st lap I thought it’s the same but if I abandon it to a different screen and retry it changes. However, It’s certainly possible I’ve been mistaken from assuming it worked a certain way and stopped looking
Also, its interesting you mention the wheel/controller thing; I stumbled across something the other day stating that at some point there was a consensus that the controller has a “limited range” or less of a steering angle at full turn than wheels do; that may be the cause for experiencing a turn being so different with identical settings. It may have been less of an issue pre 1.31 before group C cars were reintroduced with an inherent bias of understeer. I fumbled with actual the steering angle adapter a while back but not sure if that compensated (or even could), I wasn’t doing a direct comparison though and was before I heard about this.
One of the videos discussing the steering angle issue suggested giving a quick tap to the E-brake. I can confirm that it will save a turn doomed to be lost to understeer but at the cost of a dip in speed. I have not tried to incorporate it into regular turning by taking the speed loss into account though; it feels weird and unnatural, and we shouldn’t have to do that. However, in a pinch if you know your not going to make it will absolutely work.
There were some tuning adjustments I thought were going great for the controller but failed to behave the same way during the event so have to start over from scratch. I just recently rediscovered the tire wear + fuel setting for TT which was a big difference. I’ll probably try again soon to but with that enabled
R92CP for dummies:
For any other scrubs that use automatic transmission and a controller, I was able to get 23:11, with the suspension, aero, and power settings Turbodatsun’s racing medium tune. For the transmission, I only adjusted the final drive gear to put 5th gear topped out at 379. Brake balance on 2. FM3 1-6, FM2 7-10, FM1 11-15. Pit on 8 for full fuel and new mediums.
For any other scrubs that use automatic transmission and a controller, I was able to get 23:11, with the suspension, aero, and power settings Turbodatsun’s racing medium tune. For the transmission, I only adjusted the final drive gear to put 5th gear topped out at 379. Brake balance on 2. FM3 1-6, FM2 7-10, FM1 11-15. Pit on 8 for full fuel and new mediums.
- 177
- Poland
- Cheetack
@BobDx123 This is a great thread idea to make driving the same race again engaging, much appreciated.
Getting that sub 23 min time was also part of the reason (other being time trials) I decided to finally learn the manual transmission. Was missing about 10s with automatic and swapping FMs, similar to @Ziegemon above. Now I am amazed on how much of a difference it makes in basically every part of racing - braking, controlling the car in turn and managing the fuel.
For the last couple of runs I've decided to try some of the cars from my garage that were mostly collecting dust until now. These also fill in some of the gaps of not used cars in the first post.
Getting that sub 23 min time was also part of the reason (other being time trials) I decided to finally learn the manual transmission. Was missing about 10s with automatic and swapping FMs, similar to @Ziegemon above. Now I am amazed on how much of a difference it makes in basically every part of racing - braking, controlling the car in turn and managing the fuel.
For the last couple of runs I've decided to try some of the cars from my garage that were mostly collecting dust until now. These also fill in some of the gaps of not used cars in the first post.
Attachments
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- 108
- cessnock/nsw/australia
- Turbodatsun
- 119
- United States
- TUSMBOX
Ran a 45 in @Turbodatsun's Soft Rire tune. Could see a possible 39 if I grind it enough.
Also, Bob, you put Turbo's new R92 (22:42) time as my 787B time.
Also, Bob, you put Turbo's new R92 (22:42) time as my 787B time.
Grimm6Jack
(Banned)
- 1,535
- Setubal, Portugal
- Grimm66Jack
Did the favour someone asked before with the Pagani Zonda R, the FXX K, P1 GTR and Vulcan, and quite honestly... Don't bother. Their performance is amazing, but the fuel consumption kills it. At full power even with short shifting they don't last 3 laps, and if you detune them enough for a 2 stopper (5-6 laps) they become pigs that just don't give excitment driving.
The Group C cars detuned are by far the best choice. Haven't done much with them because I've been focusing on Time Trials and some other races, but I'll get back to them as well in time.
The Group C cars detuned are by far the best choice. Haven't done much with them because I've been focusing on Time Trials and some other races, but I'll get back to them as well in time.
- 108
- cessnock/nsw/australia
- Turbodatsun
Your right tbox 22:39 is possible i have even got my time trial times down to as low as a 1:25:9 but i just cant translate the same pace during the race. My calculation is you need to achieve low 1:27s for 5 laps, i also think the best wind direction is a cross wind from right to left as it helps gain a whole second in the first sector from improved downforce through turns 1-2-3-4-5 and 6 and you can take the last corner flat
Attachments
- 108
- cessnock/nsw/australia
- Turbodatsun
- 2,045
- United Kingdom
- AWRacing17
I went faster in the C8
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