Show us your Gran Turismo racing set-up
- Thread starter Famine
- 818 comments
- 154,650 views
PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,460
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
The Front B Output is the one to connect them to. Usually, it’s meant to connect a second pair of Stereo Speakers to it,which can than be userd in a separate Room for example.
Depending on your low frequency cut off options in the receiver menu, set the value to the highest possibility, in my example it was 150hz, which means all frequencies below that Value will be sent to the Shakers.
By using 2 Separate Shakers for left and right Output it’s the same as using a pair of Stereo Speakers which means all the frequencies which go through your Speaker A output will also go through the Shakers connected to your Speakers B output.
As an example: your Car goes over a curb with the left wheels, or your car looses or starts loosing traction than the left Shaker will translate the effect, Same opposite. Same goes for all other Effects. It’s really subtle and precise.
The Engine Buzz will be felt all the time depending on the revs more or less.
Like I said, it’s a complete game changer and every racing game finally comes to life.
Trust me, you will NEVER EVER want to go back once you have experienced it, same goes for Wheels an Pedals in my Opinion.
Best thing, it’s not just a cool feature for racing games...
Last edited:
- 3,546
- Theresa, Wisconsin
View attachment 1002711
The Front B Output is the one to connect them to. Usually, it’s meant to connect a second pair of Stereo Speakers to it,which can than be userd in a separate Room for example.
Depending on your low frequency cut off options in the receiver menu, set the value to the highest possibility, in my example it was 150hz, which means all frequencies below that Value will be sent to the Shakers.
By using 2 Separate Shakers for left and right Output it’s the same as using a pair of Stereo Speakers which means all the frequencies which go through your Speaker A output will also go through the Shakers connected to your Speakers B output.
As an example: your Car goes over a curb with the left wheels, or your car looses or starts loosing traction than the left Shaker will translate the effect, Same opposite. Same goes for all other Effects. It’s really subtle and precise.
The Engine Buzz will be felt all the time depending on the revs more or less.
Like I said, it’s a complete game changer and every racing game finally comes to life.
Trust me, you will NEVER EVER want to go back once you have experienced it, same goes for Wheels an Pedals in my Opinion.
Best thing, it’s not just a cool feature for racing games...
Thank you for the info. Unfortunately my Bose does not have all of those inputs/outputs (another reason for my disappointment in my Bose) it comes with easy to connect single location only connectors, I forget if it even has any RCA jacks on it.
Pigems
Premium
- 9,205
- Canada
- TT_Pigems
So, I got everything installed and hooked up last night, it’s pretty sweet. The only problem now, is I have to figure out how to filter out the sound above 150hz somehow. As of now they are putting out full sound, so I can’t turn them up loud enough to get the vibrations I’m after just yet. This has been a fun and interesting project so far. 
Edit: Will either of these do what I’m wanting?
Edit: Will either of these do what I’m wanting?
Last edited:
PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,460
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
Pigems
Premium
- 9,205
- Canada
- TT_Pigems
I have an HDMI splitter to pull the audio out of the HDMI cord, between the PS4 and the TV, then RCA’s go from the splitter to the amp currently. So I’m gonna need something that can go between the splitter and the amp I think.
Last edited:
PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,460
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
So it’s an stereo amp, Right?
Did you connect rca jacks to the cables leading to the shakers?
Tell me what frequency range do your shakers have. Usually they don’t give out anything beyond 150hz, would surprise me if yours do.
Anyway if they do than the you need something to filter them out.
Although, the more information you get through your shakers, depending on its crossover range the better for you.
I wouldn’t try to filter out anything.
It’s like toning down the sensitivity settings on your Wheel.
The more information you get, the more you‘ll feel...
Did you connect rca jacks to the cables leading to the shakers?
Tell me what frequency range do your shakers have. Usually they don’t give out anything beyond 150hz, would surprise me if yours do.
Anyway if they do than the you need something to filter them out.
Although, the more information you get through your shakers, depending on its crossover range the better for you.
I wouldn’t try to filter out anything.
It’s like toning down the sensitivity settings on your Wheel.
The more information you get, the more you‘ll feel...
Last edited:
Pigems
Premium
- 9,205
- Canada
- TT_Pigems
So it’s an stereo amp, Right?
Did you connect rca jacks to the cables leading to the shakers?
Tell me what frequency range do your shakers have. Usually they don’t give out anything beyond 150hz, would surprise me if yours do.
Anyway if they do than the you need something to filter them out.
Although, the more information you get through your shakers, depending on its crossover range the better for you.
I wouldn’t try to filter out anything.
It’s like toning down the sensitivity settings on your Wheel.
The more information you get, the more you‘ll feel...
It is RCA from adapter to amp, then speaker wire from amp to shakers. I would be fine with it as they are, but they are putting out complete audio, so I can’t turn them up enough to get the stronger vibrations without the sound being too loud(I live in an apartment, so I have to be mindful of neighbours). I think I’m gonna have to filter out the sound about 150’ish hz in order to be able to turn them up enough to few them BoR rations the way I want to. I have found a pair of 150hz RCA Low Pass Crossovers, but they’re like $100, so I’m hoping to find a less expensive option. They are the simplest solutions though so far I think.
The shipping from the states is $90 somehow on these? Even though the 50hz versions are only $8 shipping? Like what the heck?
These are the Shaker specs/info.
Last edited:
- 3,838
- Canada
- TPCDangerSashimi
I don't know what I'm talking about but I've always thought it was like a sub-woofer. All air, no sound. I thought I'd seen people playing on headphones with speaker vibration.
Are you sure your using the right outputs? I had an old amp before where it had a L & R plug but the sub woofer only worked when plugged in one one side. When I plugged in both, a little sound came out.
Are you sure your using the right outputs? I had an old amp before where it had a L & R plug but the sub woofer only worked when plugged in one one side. When I plugged in both, a little sound came out.
Pigems
Premium
- 9,205
- Canada
- TT_Pigems
Ordered that last bit to eliminate the unwanted audio from the shakers last night, should be here by next weekend. Thanks for the help everyone!! 
I cranked it up for a couple min last night and OMG!! Feeling the curbs and the engine, and even the backfires was so awesome!! It adds an entire new level to the racing/driving. I can’t wait until I get it all working properly, this is gonna be epic!
I cranked it up for a couple min last night and OMG!! Feeling the curbs and the engine, and even the backfires was so awesome!! It adds an entire new level to the racing/driving. I can’t wait until I get it all working properly, this is gonna be epic!
- 976
- Indiana USA
- tmsheehan
- ToroSports
PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,460
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
Yes, this might be what you needIt is RCA from adapter to amp, then speaker wire from amp to shakers. I would be fine with it as they are, but they are putting out complete audio, so I can’t turn them up enough to get the stronger vibrations without the sound being too loud(I live in an apartment, so I have to be mindful of neighbours). I think I’m gonna have to filter out the sound about 150’ish hz in order to be able to turn them up enough to few them BoR rations the way I want to. I have found a pair of 150hz RCA Low Pass Crossovers, but they’re like $100, so I’m hoping to find a less expensive option. They are the simplest solutions though so far I think.
View attachment 1003048
The shipping from the states is $90 somehow on these? Even though the 50hz versions are only $8 shipping? Like what the heck?
These are the Shaker specs/info.
View attachment 1003061
PirovacBoy
Premium
- 1,460
- Cologne/Germany
- PirovacBoy
I told you, once you go ..... you‘ll never go backOrdered that last bit to eliminate the unwanted audio from the shakers last night, should be here by next weekend. Thanks for the help everyone!!
I cranked it up for a couple min last night and OMG!! Feeling the curbs and the engine, and even the backfires was so awesome!! It adds an entire new level to the racing/driving. I can’t wait until I get it all working properly, this is gonna be epic!
Pigems
Premium
- 9,205
- Canada
- TT_Pigems
- 714
- New York
- GTP-DEADPOOL
Nice setup!
Just a suggestion, though I'm not sure on your height, but your wheel position is set really low. I'm 6' and have mine at the highest position. You want the wheel to be positioned so that when your arms are stretched out in front of you the wrist rests right on the top of the wheel. For height, the center of the wheel should be between neck/chin level. You'll find better leverage/mechanics of the wheel at high forces.
Maybe try positioning the pedals closer to butt level, it's hard to tell from the pic but appears they are a good bit higher. But it all depends on how your legs rest while driving, you dont want to need to "lift" them up, but instead have the weight held by the end of the seat. With the lower pedal you might find it easier to modulate the throttle as well, with the CSL's my issue was always the last 20% of throttle travel would require a awkward foot position. I did what you did and angled them back via the pedal tray, even toyed with adding a thicker bumper and manually calibrating them to account for it. Positioning them a little lower/butt level made it easier though, and it's closer to a real setup.
I love the P!-X, the level of adjustments we have now is incredible, can really fine tune the ergonomics to our exact needs. Then question our setup and readjust in tiny amounts endlessly lol.
Last edited:
- 714
- New York
- GTP-DEADPOOL
Few pics of my current setup and the chair swap for when my son drives. I just added the Sprints and the Buttkicker. With the Sprints you can see I started with the heel plate further away but quickly moved it right up against the pedals. Lil things you notice as you drive and tweak till you find a happy zone.
Attachments
Junkman55
(Banned)
- 470
- United States
- 3,585
- Phoenix, AZ
- GTP_Snaeper
So a ye--... two years ago, I was looking at the GT Omega set ups, without a seat. My questions are these:
Has anyone purchased a GT Omega rig? I'm looking at either the ART or the TITAN specifically. What are your thoughts?
And I'm sure there will be some difficulties, but can anyone share insight into mounting a car seat onto it? I'm very handy and will likely be more than capable of managing whatever might be necessary to make it work, just looking for some inspiration.
Has anyone purchased a GT Omega rig? I'm looking at either the ART or the TITAN specifically. What are your thoughts?
And I'm sure there will be some difficulties, but can anyone share insight into mounting a car seat onto it? I'm very handy and will likely be more than capable of managing whatever might be necessary to make it work, just looking for some inspiration.
Last edited:
Junkman55
(Banned)
- 470
- United States
When I was lookin for my rig I went to YouTube for reviews some were good some were fluff. Then I look for how the rig did with FFB wheels set up when turning braking also the add on shifter when testing , if I saw movement in the rig I cross it off my list. Movement in your rig will not give a direct positive feel for vibration from a FFB wheel or butt kicker.
- 3,546
- Theresa, Wisconsin
Nice set up. I dont think I would be comfy with the pedals that high. My rig is set up almost exactly how you would sit in a car but with the steering wheel higher and closer. I prefer having the wheel in my face so to speak, I dont want to have to stretch to reach it, a nice right angle bend between upper and lower arm. I have Fantec V3 load cell pedals, I had to rotate the pedals toward me quite a bit by builder a spacer for my rig, I think Fanatec makes them comfortable for sitting in a chair with the wheel mounted to a desk. As you lower your butt relative to your feet your ankles need to straighten out more to operate the pedals.
Groundfish
(Banned)
- 4,363
- United States
So I thought I would put up my economy solution for the mounting of pedals and wheel.
So I used a piece of shelving, nice wood flat on the floor, pipe foot flanges and threaded pipe from hardware store screwed on with wood screws. The pipe was galvanized, but I rattle canned it black lol.
The seat is a nice one I picked up that swivels with height adjustment sort of like an office chair but with casters taken off.
It’s cheap and simple. Tools needed just a screwdriver and drill.
The tv sits on a table made the same way. So my setup is econobox modular, sitting upright, like how I sit in my old 4Runner I drive.
My wheel is positioned relative to my seat just as Deadpool described.
I’m cheap and total investment here was minimal. Everything’s plenty solid.
The aluminum rigs look awesome.
Mines cheap and functional, but required a few minutes of fabrication. I also had to buy a couple pipe couplers and pipe nipples to adjust the height correct on the wheel. So let’s see materials 1 piece wood base. 2 pipes. 4 foot flanges 2 couplers 2 nipples, 1 can black spray paint 16 wood screws.
El cheapo!
At some point I might make a more attractive version. Right now at night I cover the relective light wood the wheel is mounted to with some black fabric scraps. El cheapo gets it done lmao
Sound wise I have a 20 year old Sony surround sound (wired speakers) with subwoofer but never use it. I just use Sony gold headphones.
So I used a piece of shelving, nice wood flat on the floor, pipe foot flanges and threaded pipe from hardware store screwed on with wood screws. The pipe was galvanized, but I rattle canned it black lol.
The seat is a nice one I picked up that swivels with height adjustment sort of like an office chair but with casters taken off.
It’s cheap and simple. Tools needed just a screwdriver and drill.
The tv sits on a table made the same way. So my setup is econobox modular, sitting upright, like how I sit in my old 4Runner I drive.
My wheel is positioned relative to my seat just as Deadpool described.
I’m cheap and total investment here was minimal. Everything’s plenty solid.
The aluminum rigs look awesome.
Mines cheap and functional, but required a few minutes of fabrication. I also had to buy a couple pipe couplers and pipe nipples to adjust the height correct on the wheel. So let’s see materials 1 piece wood base. 2 pipes. 4 foot flanges 2 couplers 2 nipples, 1 can black spray paint 16 wood screws.
El cheapo!
At some point I might make a more attractive version. Right now at night I cover the relective light wood the wheel is mounted to with some black fabric scraps. El cheapo gets it done lmao
Sound wise I have a 20 year old Sony surround sound (wired speakers) with subwoofer but never use it. I just use Sony gold headphones.
Last edited:
- 3,546
- Theresa, Wisconsin
My economy solution was to build my own (I had other reasons too) I probably have less than $100 in materials and I used an old racing chair we had laying around. I have a race seat I could have used but that is more valuable in a real race car.
Groundfish
(Banned)
- 4,363
- United States
My economy solution was to build my own (I had other reasons too) I probably have less than $100 in materials and I used an old racing chair we had laying around. I have a race seat I could have used but that is more valuable in a real race car.
Nice fitting and welding. Very cool, looks extremely rigid.
Junkman55
(Banned)
- 470
- United States
Nice job some thing to be proud ofMy economy solution was to build my own (I had other reasons too) I probably have less than $100 in materials and I used an old racing chair we had laying around. I have a race seat I could have used but that is more valuable in a real race car.
