Sim-Plicity Compact Series Direct Drive Wheels Thread

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kikie
I'm still going to wait for reviews on the DD1, FeelVR before deciding if I get a DD wheel and which one.
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Saving money & waiting your whole live for something special is stupid. What if you die tomorrow? Just buy the one you can effort and if it is bad then sell it and buy another. Or you are happy and can life with your current wheel till the holy grail "fanatec dd1" is released. :)
 
Turbobrake
Saving money & waiting your whole live for something special is stupid. What if you die tomorrow? Just buy the one you can effort and if it is bad then sell it and buy another. Or you are happy and can life with your current wheel till the holy grail "fanatec dd1" is released. :)
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Saving is how most people can afford things they want! And if you can't save money no one will want you give you a loan unless you want to pay exorbitant interest rates. That seems to be the problem with people nowadays they want everything today and make short term decisions without thinking about the longer term or end game.
 
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The new Dirt Rally 2.0 have working FFB, but it is inverted, so I am digging where to change value to make it proper for SW7C!:)


Added later: Dirt Rally 2.0 support is coming with the new march update!:)
 
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Have some of you guys tried the RSS Hybrid 2019 formula mod in Assetto Corsa? If so could you please share your settings in the Simplicity software. I seem to have some sort of light vibration with a high frequency pretty much the whole time while the car is driving. As if it's constantly going over a very light curb and I really can't figure out how to filter it out. (Might just be the mod for all I know)
 
I got a package last Friday. Got the SW10C that I ordered last week.
I had some trouble getting my TM Rim to work, but thanks to some kind person on the Internet I got this sorted out quickly.
My setup is kind of "getto" atm but I will change this for sure.

Coming from the T300RS I have to say that I am quite impressed. This is a different kind of driving.
I drove in AC, ACC and rf2 and enjoyed it quite a lot. PC2 is kind of strange. I did not get the FFB to my liking. May someone will share settings for PC2?
Sadly I found the same issue with R3E like other. As soon as I hit the throttle the wheel turns to the right. Can anyone explain how you got it to work.
 

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Rene_Acer
PC2 is kind of strange. I did not get the FFB to my liking. May someone will share settings for PC2?
Sadly I found the same issue with R3E like other. As soon as I hit the throttle the wheel turns to the right. Can anyone explain how you got it to work.
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People who own wheel from Sim-plicity are few in here there for you can try to find help here also.:)
 
Rene_Acer
I got a package last Friday. Got the SW10C that I ordered last week.
I had some trouble getting my TM Rim to work, but thanks to some kind person on the Internet I got this sorted out quickly.
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Could you please share any link or info about using the TM wheel ?
I see an arduino? I have only found info on using arduino to replicate a TM wheel and making a TM compatible wheel , not the making a TM wheel standalone.
 
Could you please share any link or info about using the TM wheel ?
I see an arduino? I have only found info on using arduino to replicate a TM wheel and making a TM compatible wheel , not the making a TM wheel standalone.
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I'm using a cheap arduino pro micro clone. The reason for this is that this board has an integrated usb-controller and can act as an HID.
If you already found the rr-m.org blog take a look at the first blog post about the topic. There is a reader sketch that explains how to read the buttons.
Basically I read the first 3 bytes, write the output to an array and hand the button state over to the joystick library.
I'm not a programmer but it works for me so far.
 
Rene_Acer
I'm using a cheap arduino pro micro clone. The reason for this is that this board has an integrated usb-controller and can act as an HID.
If you already found the rr-m.org blog take a look at the first blog post about the topic. There is a reader sketch that explains how to read the buttons.
Basically I read the first 3 bytes, write the output to an array and hand the button state over to the joystick library.
I'm not a programmer but it works for me so far.
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There is much better way - pro micro loaded with scatch for the TM rim and inside the rim and only usb cabe outside and this made the rim standalone...;)
 
I know nothing about arduino coding, but could try to learn if you think it's something not complicated.

I have visited rr-m.org but I saw it was a sketch to read the buttons, I don't know how to change the code further.

If there is an already tested sketch someone can share I'd appreciate it.
 
Attached. Do whatever you want with it. This Sketch is working with the 599XX. I did not test it with other TM Rims.
To upload it to an Arduino you need to rename the file from txt to .ino.
Remember to change the slaveSelect Pin if you use another pin.

@Krassi: This is what I have done. Only difference is that the Arduino is outside and not inside the rim. My plan was to build a button box by using the other available pins of the Arduino and attache the rim to it by using a PS/2 cable. Did not work out the in the first place. But my goal was to drive and plan the rest later.
 

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Rene_Acer
Attached. Do whatever you want with it. This Sketch is working with the 599XX. I did not test it with other TM Rims.
To upload it to an Arduino you need to rename the file from txt to .ino.
Remember to change the slaveSelect Pin if you use another pin.

@Krassi: This is what I have done. Only difference is that the Arduino is outside and not inside the rim. My plan was to build a button box by using the other available pins of the Arduino and attache the rim to it by using a PS/2 cable. Did not work out the in the first place. But my goal was to drive and plan the rest later.
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Can you show PS2 pins which to which arduiono pin?
 
Rene_Acer
Here you go. If you connect directly to the rim you need to refer to the male plug.
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I know this blog, just forgot he pointed there this... I will use my shaft cable I have one extra instead of normal PS2 - I believe the collors on the edn are matching one in the rim...infact going that roud is better for me, because have many rims and will use only one arduino pro micro;)
 
Colors can differ. But the PINs are marked correctly. Can you let me know how long your shaft cable is, please.
Maybe the ps/2 cable I got is just to long.

Thanks
 
Rene_Acer
Colors can differ. But the PINs are marked correctly. Can you let me know how long your shaft cable is, please.
Maybe the ps/2 cable I got is just to long.

Thanks
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As you see on taras pics the shaft cable is curled one, so hard to measure, but on stretch it is very long...ofcourse the difference here is that the real wheel is powered by AC adapter not only USB like you power the Pro Micro, so I hope that will not give som problems...
 
Hello, Guys
Long time no see!:)
Few interesting things to say:
I added temp sensor and display to my SW7C, so now I can count 1/100 of the degree Celsius!!! And because I always want to push tothe max and now I have the display to see the exact temp in number - I just did the supreme test...The game that makes the motor hot faster and hotter in general is Raceroom...so I maxed out everything....the result maybe after 10 laps on the Nordschleife was...80C,,,guys that is insane temperature...my 3d printed QR which is from the old gen internaly melted and it is unusable....Jeez that was just for the record...
On other hand I decided to test how the temp on the motor reacts to fan blow...so I have extra WindSim package and just put the fan next to the motor to blow it only on the left hand side, the sensor is on the opposite side and the wind dont reach it... So, the results was completely surprise to me - with the similar test on Raceroom - the degrees was seen max at 45C...so my suggestion that the motor gets hot just because nothing blows it and old temp meets new produced temp and that leads to rising faster and faster...like in the real motorbikes and cars - was confirmed...
Btw, as I said the QR which melted is the old gen - the new one is much much better, will post link later.
Also on the website of the Simplicity in download section there is new preset tool for some games...
Now Raceroom feels great without push to right problem!;)

Edit:
Here is the new QR to see it...not only better ,but because have 2 parts it gives me 50mm extension ,which I desperately needed;)
qr.jpg
 
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Krassi
The game that makes the motor hot faster and hotter in general is Raceroom...so I maxed out everything....the result maybe after 10 laps on the Nordschleife was...80C,,,guys that is insane temperature...
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I would say that this is a good result given that it is quite hot here in Bulgaria at the moment.
For example the motor of CSL Elite without a fan in Assetto Corsa with 100 FFB strength in the wheel and in game will reach this temperature in the summer for a maximum of one lap on the Nordschleife.
 
super_gt
I would say that this is a good result given that it is quite hot here in Bulgaria at the moment.
For example the motor of CSL Elite without a fan in Assetto Corsa with 100 FFB strength in the wheel and in game will reach this temperature in the summer for a maximum of one lap on the Nordschleife.
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True! Here the case is worse , because the motor shaft is steering shaft so if you play on 80C with rim mounted on the hub for 1 hour maybe the rim can become faulty - with some internal melted components;) Also when you reach 80C nothing guarantees that will stay there...so rising and rising will do damage to what is plastic etc....I was close to feel the paddles hot!:)
In general I dont care for motor heat, because the motor will hold it without problems...just that colateral damage is not good to other components.... Btw after testing the fan to blow and make degrees lower - this is the first time that I can touch the motor after gameplay....;)
1.jpg
 
Krassi
True! Here the case is worse , because the motor shaft is steering shaft so if you play on 80C with rim mounted on the hub for 1 hour maybe the rim can become faulty - with some internal melted components;) Also when you reach 80C nothing guarantees that will stay there...so rising and rising will do damage to what is plastic etc....I was close to feel the paddles hot!:)
In general I dont care for motor heat, because the motor will hold it without problems...just that colateral damage is not good to other components.... Btw after testing the fan to blow and make degrees lower - this is the first time that I can touch the motor after gameplay....;)
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Is this Thrustmaster Open Wheel Add-on, and how to make it work?
 
super_gt
Is this Thrustmaster Open Wheel Add-on, and how to make it work?
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Yes, I had it new stashed from years - I bought absolute first TS-PC from Pulsar here in Bulgaria!;) - I converted it with arduino and some extra work and test to make it work proper...that rim is kinda different from other similar TM rims...gotta say it is one of the most comfortable rims for the hands ever tested... I really love it...I attached a mobile phone to it and the reasult is amazing - I feel it like those 1000-ish Euro high end rims:)
Also I took the buttons from TM28 rim and installed them here to match the colorfull stickers on the rim, the original ones are with numbers on them and I dont like them....
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Edit:
Forgot to mention that changed the center badge with the stupid TM logo!:)
 

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