Slash's F150 Street Truck: V8 Swap Incoming

[AnthonyD1993]

If it was mine, I'd try selling some of the leftover parts before scrapping it, but it was a steal for the price anyway so it don't really matter.

 

[Slash]

If it was mine, I'd try selling some of the leftover parts before scrapping it, but it was a steal for the price anyway so it don't really matter.

Technically I paid $20 for it...I won a gun in a raffle sold it and bought the truck. But yeah definitely gonna pull off parts I need...the bed and cab are screwed tho.

 

[Slash]

Stripped the F250 and sold it as a rolling chassis to my buddy for $50. It's heart is currently hanging from the engine hoist as I slowly convert it over to carburetor and it's transmission/tcase laying on the floor awaiting a pending sale. This whole truck is one of my better investments, didn't cost me squat and I made a a nice chunk of change off it.

 

[Slash]

Fender flares!!! No more nasty rust. For now anyways. Retrofitted off a 97.

 

[Slash]

Everything coming apart ok so far, only two broke intake bolts.

 

[Slash]

Welp the motor is on a stand mostly torn down, cylinders are scuffed but not bad. Still have to finish teardown. Also recently put a light bar on a few weeks ago, and hooked it up to a floor mounted dimmer switch just like the old hi beam switch you tap with your foot to turn it on and off.

 

[Slash]

I've been asked a few other places what I have done for suspension work on this truck. I claim this thing can and will trash a first generation SVT Lightning in the corners. While the SVT has in power, I will catch up without an issue. So this is a list of what work is done to it, in case anyone cares. These mods apply to any 2wd F150 of any year 1980-96, all parts interchange. Now while it retains useage of some stock parts, over time it will be upgraded, and I will list those plans as well. @mustangGT90210 I tagged you in case you want to apply some of these to your trucks.


- Energy Suspension polyurethane radius arm bushings
- Factory 1994 and 1989 radius arms
- Moog CC824 variable rate coil springs
- Gabriel Gaurdian shocks front/rear
- Factory camber/caster bushings (these will be maxed would when aligning due to the lift fronm the coils)
- Factory I Beams and factory bushings (need replacement bushings)
- Skyjacker 7000 steering stabilizer
- Duralast/Moog HD tie rods, center link and drag links
- Moog K5685T HD ball joints
- National/Timken wheel bearings
- Billet 2" wheel spacers
- 15x10.5 American Racing Centerline wheels
- 4.5" offset/backspacing
- 275/60 Cooper Cobra Radial GT tires
- AutoZone stainless leaf spring clamps
- Factory N code rear lead springs




FUTURE PARTS


- I beam bushings
- Ford OEM steering knuckles/spindles
- 1" SVT Lightning sway bars front/rear


The only thing a SVT has over me now is 3" and 2.5" front and rear lower ride height and 275/60s on 17"s with Monroe GP shocks. Otherwise this is entirely superior and is extremely planted with nearly no body roll through corners. It very easily out handles mid 2000s Crown Vic Police Interceptors, Mustangs of the era and other vehicles.

 

[homeforsummer]

Didn't realise you'd done so much to the truck - or was some of that list already fitted when you bought it?

 

[Sage Ages]

Aren't you supposed to get longer hub/lug/whatever bolts when you're using wheel spacers?

 

[Slash]

Didn't realise you'd done so much to the truck - or was some of that list already fitted when you bought it?

Nope, it was 100℅ worn out entirely stock parts when I bought it. The thing coulsnt have been anymore factory . It all virtually been rebuilt.


That's only what is done to the steering and suspension mind you, besides the complete interior swap and all other little upgrades I've done here and there. Body work will be coming soon as that will be the next major step after temporary frame work is complete. Eventually I will be custom building a completely brand new frame for it so it can support the intense horsepower it's about to be receiving.

Aren't you supposed to get longer hub/lug/whatever bolts when you're using wheel spacers?

Probably, the only issues they have given me are reliable time wise wheel bearing failures, due to the extra load. I am replacing the steering knuckles and spindles anyways, but Fords in general are known for this.


Technically these spacers are more like adapters, they have their own set of studs and lug nuts.

I will say, this thing grips and hammers corners like you wouldnt believe a truck can do. I am hoping once I get the new polyurethane body mounts in (and replace the core support) that it will stiffen up even more. There is virtually next to no body roll.

 

[Slash]

Incomplete to do list...as always. Just in case anyone wants to know where this is going.


Priority:

1. Cheap exhaust - DONE
2. Get inspection - PASSED
3. Alignment - DONE
4. Tighten plugs #4 and #6
5. Replace plug wires - DONE
6. Replace last two spring hangers - PARTS ARRIVED
7. Replace transmission crossmember - PARTS ARRIVED
8. Exhaust hangers and clamps - DONE

Other crap:

1. Lakewood traction bars
2. Ford Racing 4.10 gears
3. Ford Racing 31 spline limited slip differential
4. 3 bottles of 75w-140 gear oil w/ friction modifier
5. Diff cover gasket (cover and gasket already replaced)
6. Oil change [6qts Rotella 15W-40 diesel oil with zinc]
7. Motorcraft FL1-A oil filter
8. Advance timing 4*
9. Bug shield - DONE
10. Hood letters - DONE
11. Cree 180w 15,840 Lumen 30" LED light bar - DONE
12. Rebuild wiring harness for KC and BAJA lights - partially done
13. Pick up angle iron and flat stock from scrap yard for various uses
14. Install rear pipe bumper
15. Build license plate mounting bracket
16. Fix license plate bulb
17. Replace light bulb with LED
18. Order Cree 50w LED 3157 rear tail light bulbs and install - DONE
19. Wire in Sylvania resistors - DONE
20. Order 28x14.50 Hoosier slicks
21. Swap KC light bulbs fir Xenon bulbs I already have
22. Install F150 fender flares - DONE
23. Purchase and install red Eddie Bauer fiberglass running boards
24. Purchase and install matching red vinyl bench seat
25. Red interior swap - DONE
26. Soft bench seat swap - DONE
27. Ford tailgate letters and diamond plate - DONE
28. Install cab pillar trim
29. Replace carpet with black rubber vinyl - DONE
30. Fix sagging door hinges
31. Replace door strikers - DRIVER SIDE DONE
32. Replace bedsides and paint
33. Fix bed cross sill mount rust
34. Repair drivers side cab corner
35. Replace passenger fender
36. Fix passenger door dents and scratches
37. Roll bars - DONE
38. Replace door mirror mounting hardware
39. Drill in window rain guards
40. Paint firewall - DONE
41. Paint truck
42. Fix tailgate or replace it
43. Undercoat hood
44. Replace grille and headlight bezels - MUST REDO
45. Box in the frame and make necessary repairs
46. Replace cowl
47. Replace antenna - DONE
48. Ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rods, coil springs and shocks - DONE
49. Radius arm polyurethane bushings - DONE
50. Replace tailgate straps with factory steel straps
51. Order aftermarket clear headlight lenses
52. Buy new air cleaner pods
53. Wire up switch panel
54. Wire up second tachometer
55. Order pillar gauge pods and wire up gauges
56. Replace driver door panel 194 bulb
57. Reinstall dome light
58. Order LED square pods
59. Block off return check valve for fuel system
60. Rebuild fuel system for 19 gal remote fuel cell
61. Wire up Holley pump to kill switch - done with motor swap
62. 418ci stroker small block
63. TCI C6 trans with gear vendors or rebuild E4OD
64. Moser 4 link 9" rear axle
65. Full 7.50 certified roll cage
66. Energy Suspension cab mounts
67. Core support
68. Core support mounts
69. Replace body trim
70. Replace driver fender
71. Cab lights, OEM
72. Replace front steering knuckles and wheel bearings
73. Figure out why pass side dash shakes
74. Retint rear window with 15℅
75. Remove plastic bed liner
76. Replace bump stops with Energy Suspension
77. MSD Street Fighter TFI coil until swap
78. E4OD standalone ECU controller if no TCI trans
79. Summit Racing adjustable fuel pressure regulator
80. Air conditioning system delete - DONE
81. Rear disc brake conversion
82. Front slotted or drilled rotors
83. F250 dual piston calipers and rotors
84. F250 master cylinder and vacuum booster
85. SVT Lightning rear sway bar
86. Moser 31 spline 4130 chromoly axle shafts

All that is before engine swap stuff....

 

[Slash]

Did a little engine bay cleaning but it's still SUPER DIRTY. Also started removing some of the emissions junk and moved some things around. There's already a lot more space than there was. I also painted the firewall and fenders.

 

[Slash]

More pics as I get stuff done, but I've begun removing the AC system and all the vacuum system that doesn't need to exist. The AC had no freon in it at all

Literally everything but the Map, PCV and EGR is going goodbye. Which means no more sloppy little vacuum lines all over the place. I have a lot of cleaning and painting to do still however. Pretty much everything that doesn't interfere with the motor and trans and heat working you can say hasta la vista to.

 

[Slash]

So, this is about 1/2 of what doesn't need to be in my engine bay in order to run.

All that and 2 miles of vacuum lines.

But it is starting to look better. I still need to do some major cleaning and painting but the extra room is very welcome.

 

[mustangGT90210]

Looking good Slash!

These trucks really do handle pretty decently given what they are with new components up front. Definitely put poly bushings in the I-beams. My god are they like the best thing you can do for solid front end feel. And easy!

 

[Slash]

Looking good Slash!

These trucks really do handle pretty decently given what they are with new components up front. Definitely put poly bushings in the I-beams. My god are they like the best thing you can do for solid front end feel. And easy!

Thanks!!!! I always appreciate the compliments. Makes it all worth it.

And in advance I apologize for the fairly long post.


Definitely can't wait to do those bushings and get the cab mounts done. Those and rear forward spring hangers and it'll be set for a while. I think eventually in going to bullnose swap the clip and bedsides.

The plan is to build a complete custom chassis under it built similarly to Ford specs (even use aftermarket factory hangers) but with my 95 cab. I'm going to fix what little rust there is on the cab, and use 7"x3" boxed steel and cut/weld according for length etc. That will be an upgrade over 5.5-6"x2.5" C channel frame. Much stiffer and closer to a 3/4 ton frame.


Eventually the 418 SBF will come in time. I want to paint it a deep metallic wine red. All in due time.


_________________________



In other news, had my first mechanical failure in a while today, though partially my fault. Right front brake caliper seized up, but it was only a matter of time as when I did that wheel bearing recently I somehow forgot to put it on, and hit the brakes blowing it out. Surprised it lasted this long in all honesty. She was warm, but surprisingly didn't destroy the pads or warp the rotor. So I rotated the front tires, replaced the caliper and put on new pads for the sake of it. I should do drums eventually (I'd really like the rear disc conversion) but for now the braking is back. Super tight brakes again, braking performance back to where it should be.

Brake fade is minimal surprisingly and while I'm typically nice to them, for a stock single piston/drum system (I would like to upgrade to an F250 booster and master), they take a load of wow. This is the same setup used in 93-95 Lightnings, so read up on that; I believe they are 12" rotors and 11.5x2.5 drums with rear ABS and performance is something like 140ft from 60; in all honestly I think it probably does a little better than that. For the average person it's pretty decent. ABS does kick in a little sooner than to be desired as far as pedal travel goes (very short travel with fresh brakes so it is super touchy) and they lock up fairly easily under HARD braking but it's not bad. In replacing this caliper, brake steer has minimalized; it's fairly straight again.

As you can see here, no major heat marks on the rotor, just some light scoring. The back looked even better. Those pads were the worst, the other side looked better. I kinda figured it was coming though, the last few days the ABS light has kicked on and off, every so often I'd get a hard pull to the right and it would shudder when slowing down sometimes. All has been corrected.

It kind of happened at a bad time as well, right in the middle of a busy intersection on a main street. It immediately pulled HARD right, so I pulled into a parking lot and looked, sure enough smoke was rolling off the rotor and it smelled like brakes.

I also have developed, what seems to be a warm start issue. Cold starts are no issue. Wierd because before it would hesitate a bit on cold starts but warm starts be fine.

Suddenly, it's reversed but worse. Hot starts it will stumble over itself like a hard misfire and stall. Crank it again, fires up and runs perfect. Sometimes I can catch it by blipping the throttle, and then its fine.

Wierd.

I'm overdue for plugs/plug wires, cap/rotor, oil change, and probably a fuel filter. I almost put money on the fuel filter never having been changed. This truck was pretty well stock when I bought it, I think it even had factory shocks.

I'm really hoping the pumps not going. But I haven't had any real issue yet that would suggest otherwise. But if it does, I'm in a world of 🤬 with no big income right now.

 

[Slash]

Next stuff on the list:


Plugs
Plug wires
Cap/rotor
MSD Street Fighter TFI coil
Oil change
Pushrod cover gasket
Timing advance (maybe)
Shorter belt for AC and smog pump delete


Hopefully that will take care of the slight miss. It really needs plug wires bad.


This is the side of the engine I don't like to show off because its disgusting. Hopefully I can change that soon. I can already picture it.

 

[Slash]

Looks better! Made my own wires today. They are just some cheap Accel 8mm ones I picked up at the parts store.

Next step is a cap/rotor (going to paint the cap red) and the MSD coil...that will set me about into this about $120 so far. I also picked up some red flex tubing to clean up some wiring and stuff.

I also ordered a new gasket and grommets for the side cover so I can stop the oil leak that these engines are infamous for.

 

[SVX]

Hmm, a red dizzy cap might look a bit clashing with the blue don't you think? You already have yellow in there too.

 

[Slash]

Hmm, a red dizzy cap might look a bit clashing with the blue don't you think? You already have yellow in there too.

Indeed; but it's a performance thing. Red caps are usually made by MSD and would match the coil. I could do a yellow cap. Anything is better than the ugly gray that the new cap is; looks identical to that one on there.

 

[Slash]

Sea of red! Unfortunately all this wiring and hosing is necessary. Eventually the hoses will be braided nylon and some (most) of this red will go away.

Also not seen here I finally took out all of the cruise control stuff under the hood.

 

[mustangGT90210]

If it makes you feel better, I doubt your warm start problem is a fuel pump. Normally bad cold starting could indicate the fuel pump losing it's prime. Do you turn the key and let it prime first, or do you just go from off straight to cranking?

I'm having an issue with my wheel spacers, maybe you know something here, because I'm empty on google searches, and 2 hours wasted at parts counters that can't seem to find it. I broke a stud on my spacer, stud has U 176 stamped in the back of it, but for some reason that's like an impossible stud to find. Been through anything like that?

 

[Slash]

If it makes you feel better, I doubt your warm start problem is a fuel pump. Normally bad cold starting could indicate the fuel pump losing it's prime. Do you turn the key and let it prime first, or do you just go from off straight to cranking?

I'm having an issue with my wheel spacers, maybe you know something here, because I'm empty on google searches, and 2 hours wasted at parts counters that can't seem to find it. I broke a stud on my spacer, stud has U 176 stamped in the back of it, but for some reason that's like an impossible stud to find. Been through anything like that?

I think it was partly cause I wasn't using a key, even though the ignition cylinder is new if i don't turn it back all the way it will still start. I stopped that and its been fine.

Haven't had a problem with my spacers at all and I'm hard on then. Stock studs are 1/2"x20 you can find em.

 

[Slash]

We got some nasty snow the other day so she got a salt spray like none other. I gave her a quick bath and had to take a pic.

I do think I want to shorten the roll bar kickers another 4".

Also, just to give an idea how much the fronr end got lifted...it's still got a little rake but that will be taken care of eventually. I found out my truck has the highest GVWR rear F150 spring load capacity and the lowest in the front, which is why it had so much rake.

This is a photo of when it was entirely stock underneath. Compare to as above.

 

[Sage Ages]

Is it me, or is the wheel/tire combo shorter than stock? I just noticed this.

 

[Slash]

Is it me, or is the wheel/tire combo shorter than stock? I just noticed this.

It is. I went from 235/75/15s to 275/60/15s. The height comes from the sidewall dropping from 75mm to 60mm. It might drop a hair more as well if I go 295s. Although eventually in the back I am getting 28x14.50 Hoosier slicks when the new engine is finished.

 

[Slash]

Welp I bought the new coil, found a red cap/rotor for the distributor, gonna order that and pick up some oil for an oil change and degreaser/paint as well. Hopefully I will get a warm day soon so I can get outside and install my pushrod cover gasket and clean the bad leak. It's caked with grease in that spot.

 

[Ze Elephant]

It is. I went from 235/75/15s to 275/60/15s. The height comes from the sidewall dropping from 75mm to 60mm. It might drop a hair more as well if I go 295s. Although eventually in the back I am getting 28x14.50 Hoosier slicks when the new engine is finished.

Just want to say this because I thought the same thing before I started working with tires. The second number in a tire size is actually a percentage of the first, so a 235/75R15 sidewall will actually be 75% of 235mm, so it's roughly 176mm of sidewall. Going along with that, the sidewall on your newer 275/60's will be about 165mm of sidewall.

I crunched some numbers and the rough figures I came up with say your wheels used to be ~29 in. tall, while your newer tires are ~28 in. tall.

Beyond that, I have to say that while I'm not normally a big tuck guy, I really like your build with this one, and I've been lurking on this thread for a few weeks. Keep it up, it's looking great!

 

[Slash]

Just want to say this because I thought the same thing before I started working with tires. The second number in a tire size is actually a percentage of the first, so a 235/75R15 sidewall will actually be 75% of 235mm, so it's roughly 176mm of sidewall. Going along with that, the sidewall on your newer 275/60's will be about 165mm of sidewall.

I crunched some numbers and the rough figures I came up with say your wheels used to be ~29 in. tall, while your newer tires are ~28 in. tall.

Beyond that, I have to say that while I'm not normally a big tuck guy, I really like your build with this one, and I've been lurking on this thread for a few weeks. Keep it up, it's looking great!

Hell I worked in a tire shop and didnt know that, but kt makes sense. I did know that they were 29s vs 28s for some reason

Thank you!! It means a lot to see people appreciate it even though its got so far to go. One of the biggest rewards I get is being featured on Instagram pages...means a lot. Kind of a right of passage in a way.

Anyway my new coil arrived overnight, so I'm gonna go put her on

 

[Slash]

I love when new parts arrive. Been tuning up my truck trying to iron out a misfire that's been present, only at idle in park, since I bought it. I put on a set of Accel RFI suppressed 8mm wires, have fairly new plugs (probably could use a change though) that I posted the other day, and now my MSD TFI coil. I have a Taylor Ign cap and rotor for the distributor on the way as well.

My stock coil while it worked, just didn't produce a hot enough spark for an efficient burn. This new coil is rated 40,000 volts as per typical MSD stuff, and had the option for 48,000. No need to go any higher though, it would just be wasted spark.

Even without the cap so far, I've noticed major things happen. First of all is it runs better, the miss, while tends to happen now after I've been driving for a while (and stop, put it in park) is damn near nonexistent now. It still does occur but it is not nearly as loud or noticeable, before it was a very distinct popping sound. The plug wires before we also junk, rotted contacts, broken terminals, etc. So those did help too.

Second was increased fuel mileage. The last few days before I installed the coil, my gas mileage tanked for some reason. 20-30 miles was 1/4 tank with a 16 gal tank. Prior to that I had been getting an average of 14-15 mpg which for the specs of the truck isnt half bad for the big six. It easily dropped 3-4 mpg after the emissions and vacuum line removal. However with removing everything (not complete yet however) I did pick up some power. This coil I beleive probably produces double the voltage of the stock TFI coil that I took out. In return of the hotter spark the burn seems to be better as any gas mileage I lost has returned. The plugs always had a nice tan color but it seems to be even nicer now. I also tightend up the plugs to reduce plug blow by that I was getting since the vibration of the engine tends to loosen them up on these motors. No idea why, but it's a common complaint.

Last thing I noticed, is WOW where did the power come from. Driveability was greatly improved, immediately I noticed I needed less gas pedal travel to move than before. Put my foot in it, and the damn truck almost spun around in a 180. Crazy! Never realized a coil alone would make such a difference.

Oddly, it is heavier than the original, despite the outer housing being made of black anodized billet aluminum; the coil itself was heavier.

So I am super excited for this new cap and rotor to come, because I'm hoping the new contacts will deliver an even better burn. At this point I think I'm making up lost power from over the years. I am also getting as mentioned in other posts a shorter belt to remove two pulleys to lessen the strain on the engine as well. Removing those pumps and everyhing else has taken or will takeprobably 50+ lbs of dead weight off the front. There's still a couple solenoids to take out as I've ripped off prettymuch everything not crucial to engine operation.

Also, I've started decorating the firewall with stickers, just gonna do a couple here and there.

I wired up an indicator light for my light bar as well, something I wanted to do for a while. Its kind of half-assed at the moment though. Instead of splicing into the main feed, since the harness I made/bought had dual leads for two light bars I just used the second lead for now I'm also going to get another indicator light for switched ignition since I'm going to put in an ignition kill switch which will kill power to the coil. So not only will I have a fuel pump switch (technically just used the dual selector switch, there's no rear tank anywhere so no fuel to draw from ) just for extra insurance.


The last thing in the ignition upgrade is a new TFI module, I'm getting one from Accel.