Slash's Mopar Van: End of the Road

[Zenith]

Hopefully you'll be so kind enough to help guide me through this over time.

Sure, no problem.

First thing is first. It's going to be a fastback, or it's not happening, period. I'm not wasting my hard earned cash on something I'm not going to be happy with, and lets face it, for me, coupes just aren't my thing. I'm aware it's going to cost a hella lot more, Quite honestly, I am ok with that. I'll figure it out. Obviously, this won't be any time soon, but someday in the future. If it takes more time to get something I'm ultimately more happy with, it'll be worth the time and effort. Basically, I'm hell bent on a fastback and almost nothing is going to persuade me to change my mind

Alright, if it's worth it to you then it's worth it to you. Be aware that fastbacks are less common and more expensive.

As far as weight is concerned, not a big deal.According to Ford's sales brochure and general specifications, a 302 car weighed in dry at right about 3100-3300lbs, so that's not too bad. That's for a fastback too. Hell, throw $800 into the top end of the motor and you could knock damn near 200lbs off that. I'm not looking to make this car a fire breather that runs 9 second quarter miles. Hell, a stock 302/auto would make my world. Something nice to look at and cruise around in on the weekends is what I am after. The benefit of running a base model car is that it can always be upgraded in the future should I choose.

The difference is not significant. You're right.

I wouldn't have thought so but I was under the impression '69s were the more popular model. Of the few times I've looked it seemed the '69s tended to sell higher, but it probably depends on the options. I've got time to worry about pricing anyways.

Fastbacks are particularly popular with the 69-70 models. The car is bigger so the roofline looks more "correct." There's also the Trans-Am popularity.

Oh I am definitely aware. This isn't my first rodeo when it comes to that

My dad will help too, especially with the electrical. That's this expertise.

The electrical work in the car is obviously pretty basic. There's just not much there.

Be aware that you may have to replace important metal components on the chassis depending on what car you buy. Since you're looking at fastbacks exclusively, it is likely that you'll have to do lots of rust repair and sheetmetal replacement yourself. Someone who can weld will be useful. Good luck on that.

I honestly was just thinking about manual/auto valve bodying the automatic if it doesn't already have it set up from the factory that way. I don't want to dump a ton of money on a T5 and then eitther A blow it up from too much power or B. rip it out because it won't hold it. I thought about a toploader in it but $$$. An auto will suffice for a long time.

The plan is to buy a running roller, or something better. If it comes up where it's all in nice shape but the motor doesn't run I might jump on it. I've ran several carbed engines at home before and have a decent amount experience working on them so I feel I know my way around those and a car pretty well., especially being that I've stripped down and rebuilt probably 4-5 (not entirely by myself however) and have experience on old Camaros and what not. Fortunately, I am blessed with the skills required to take on such a project. My only fear is body work. I'm not the greatest at that. Mechanical, all day long. Body work, welll...I guess we will learn, won't we.

Transmissions swaps will be far off. When I first got into my car I was looking at engine swaps and transmissions as well. It was years of replacing components that broke before I had time and funds to start serious drivetrain and powertrain work.

For my car, I replaced items as they broke to upgraded parts.

Brakes failing? Upgrade to power discs.

Shocks failing? High performance suspension.

Rear end leaking? Ford 9 inch with Limited Slip.

It worked well for me because I use the car daily. Things might be different for you.

I am definitely not buying a stripped shell though. I'll pay up to $8k for a decent car.

Hell, that guys 289 '67 Coupe was bought for $2500 in that condition.

Who know's. It's a waiting game. Pennies are being saved. That's about all I can say right now.

Thanks for the comment, appreciate it.

Yup, get the funds and arrangements going to make the project work and then start browsing craigslist.

You need space, tools, time, and money. That third one is harder than you think.

 

[Azure Flare]

You put your own life in danger using a doohickey when you should have been using a thingamajigger.

I thought you were better than this!

 

[Slash]

Alright, if it's worth it to you then it's worth it to you. Be aware that fastbacks are less common and more expensive.

That was actually one of the first things I thought about...availability. The scarcity of finding one might actually be kind of a good thing because it gives me even more time to save money as I'm browsing. I'm willing to drive a long distance to get it.

Fastbacks are particularly popular with the 69-70 models. The car is bigger so the roofline looks more "correct." There's also the Trans-Am popularity.

Yup, for sure.

The electrical work in the car is obviously pretty basic. There's just not much there.

Glad to hear it. I figured there wouldn't be a whole lot going on. I would imagine the systems between your '67 and a '70 aren't too awful different.

Be aware that you may have to replace important metal components on the chassis depending on what car you buy. Since you're looking at fastbacks exclusively, it is likely that you'll have to do lots of rust repair and sheetmetal replacement yourself. Someone who can weld will be useful. Good luck on that.

Fortunately, I have access to some VERY good welders. My father, grandfather (when he's around) and some close friends in the business. I realize not everyone is as fortunate as I am when it comes to this though.

That was a big worry. It was kind of why I wanted to look at higher priced cars in the long haul. Cheaper ones, while not always, but sometimes can be even bigger money pits. I'll be choosing very wisely, that's for sure.

Hell, if I find a Mach 1 cheaper than a base car, I'd go for it.

Transmissions swaps will be far off. When I first got into my car I was looking at engine swaps and transmissions as well. It was years of replacing components that broke before I had time and funds to start serious drivetrain and powertrain work.

I'm pretty much expecting this. The drivetrain will be cleaned up and running like a top before I even start touching things to upgrade, unless of course there's already broken stuff.

For my car, I replaced items as they broke to upgraded parts.

Brakes failing? Upgrade to power discs.

Shocks failing? High performance suspension.

Rear end leaking? Ford 9 inch with Limited Slip.

It worked well for me because I use the car daily. Things might be different for you.

This is pretty much what I plan on doing. The car will probably daily'd during the summer months.

As time goes on, parts get upgraded/replaced. There's a couple necessities I want though, and are prioritized. They must be working before it goes on the road. Power brakes and power steering. At some point I'll do at least a front wheel disc swap if the car has drums but I'm not worried about that now.

The big things I want to get right is the steering and suspension. That's a priority.

Yup, get the funds and arrangements going to make the project work and then start browsing craigslist.

You need space, tools, time, and money. That third one is harder than you think.

'Tis the plan, my good sir.

You put your own life in danger using a doohickey when you should have been using a thingamajigger.

I thought you were better than this!

I live dangerously.

 

[Cano]

I use the car daily.

Dude, I didn't know that thing was your daily. I think I want to kiss you.

 

[michrulejj]

Also Slash an idea for body work, since you are amazing at the mechanical side find a friend or family friend or even a business friend that does body work and like trade work for work. Like if they help you say call whenever you need something and I'll help you. just being friendly and having a positive attitude can go a long way.

 

[Slash]

I know a few places and people that can do it as a deal for me.

I'd like to do it myself but the plan is to find an already painted body or one that requires little body work.

Its going to be a stretch but I am willing to wait it out and pay for it.


Thanks for the kind words too. I have been told by previous instructors that I am pretty good. I usually got stuck with the hard project when I was in school because no one else had a clue.

I also did training when I was in school for mechanical safety, mechanical poulltion prevention and completed hazardous materials training. I am double certified in all of them. During my intership, I recieved high marks from my shadow instructor (although he liked to joke around and "put one or 2 lower ones on there just to make it look legit" ). All marks were signed off by the show instructor as well.

I also should get my vehicle inspectors license...I've put it off for a long time. Application and filled out and ready to send, but I just need the money and a refresher. That will be nice to have.

And finally to top that off I am state certified as an auto technician. That's my technical title. That was awarded to me after 2 years or educational instruction,

As far as the next step, I dunno what I'll do. Someday I'd like full ASE certifications but that's a lot of work.

 

[michrulejj]

If I was you I would try and get ASE out of the way while you're young. If you wait like 6 years or more you will probably almost be starting a family. Then it'll be a lot harder. Also if you ever want to open a shop you better be ASE certified.

 

[Slash]

Finding a place of employment without ASE certifications is almost pointless. I don't care how good of a backyard mechanic you are, if you don't have those, you ain't getting a job typically unless it's family related.

I agree I should probably get it early, but who knows. Hopefully I will have a family by then, but I think later might be better.

 

[Slash]

Provided I get a chance to later, I'm going to do an exhaust video on this pile just for the sheer hell of it. Mostly so in 5 years I can laugh at it and be like yeah I owned that hunk of garbage huehuehue.


EDIT:

Looks like it won't be today. Probably won't be until Tuesday at the earliest.

 

[ildd]

Don't forget to drill holes in random places before you video it

 

[Slash]

Don't forget to drill holes in random places before you video it

Nah. I fixed the exhaust once. Not doing it again

 

[Slash]

I think dad is putting in the new hatch handle today.

I also got a video lol...but I put the camera a little too close to the pipe and it ruined it :/

 

[Slash]

I'm sure @CAMAROBOY69 will be proud of my dad's fantastic way of rednecking this rust repair...it was so bad that my dad decided to take back the new handle, rig the old one in (got it working too) and the cover the rust with 30 gauge galvanized sheet metal, wrapped around the bottom, and the pop riveted it on

It'll get rattle canned here pretty soon too

Listen kids, if you car is not a beater like this, DO NOT DO THIS

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

That's some good stuff right there.

In all honesty, I have seen MUCH worse. I have seen people stuff something like that with newspaper and then cover with bondo.

The best way to properly repair your rear hatch is to just get a new rear hatch from the junkyard. Not even worth "fixing" something that bad. I am sure you could get a new rear hatch for about $75.00-$100.00.

 

[Aquarelle]

The best way to properly repair your rear hatch is to just get a new rear hatch from the junkyard. Not even worth "fixing" something that bad. I am sure you could get a new rear hatch for about $75.00-$100.00.

This was my immediate reaction, any panel that can be replaced will be replaced with me - the only thing I'll repair is something that's just not removable (IE, rear quarter, pillars, roof etc)

 

[Slash]

That's some good stuff right there.

In all honesty, I have seen MUCH worse. I have seen people stuff something like that with newspaper and then cover with bondo.

The best way to properly repair your rear hatch is to just get a new rear hatch from the junkyard. Not even worth "fixing" something that bad. I am sure you could get a new rear hatch for about $75.00-$100.00.

My dad said flat out that he's not going to even try bondo-ing it since the sheet metal is too flimsy. So some quick priming and painting will be about all that gets done on top of this.

This was literally a temporary fix though. My mom said he's been eyeballing hatches for it on Craigslist, so it may or may not be completely replaced in the future. The problem is $$$.

Also, underneath the handle we pounded the metal down to conform to the body a little more.

 

[Slash]

Signed up for my road test for next Saturday at 11 am. Hopefully I pass but I am pretty nervous. If I do this turd will be put back on the road. I've got a couple places I am looking at for a job right now so hopefully I will be bringing in some money soon. I really wanted the '70 Mustang but financial issues at home right now aren't going to allow it for some time :/

The van is in great working order but I don't really want to push it too hard...I don't trust its reliability right now. There's nothing saying its in bad shape because its not but I just have that feeling.

I think my sister will be getting the van in about a years time (even though she wants an old 70s/80s Ford pickup like my dads) so hopefully I should have some kind of toy by then. Considering Fox Mustangs and MII's right now, probably going to be a I4 or V6 car for the time being until I can build up a junkyard V8.

A 2.3L Ranger is not out of the question either...between the 3 vehicles I am considering (and as bad as I want a big Ford pickup; not happening) its going to come down to price and condition. I suppose I can consider a full size pickup if I get one with the 4.9L inline 6.


It all depends. Thoughts?

 

[Joel]

I voted for the Ranger because it's the newest, 2nd most useful, and likely cheapest to maintain of the 4 options. With the state of the van you're currently driving it probably makes more sense to have something dependable before you get into a project car.

 

[Slash]

I think all of them would end up costing about the same to maintain in the long run but I'm not sure. I'm leery about getting something newer as I'm not too find with the electrical work they require when something breaks; plus fuel injection.

I suppose it would be a good start; the van is in good mechanical shape and inside its fantastic but rust is catching up with it and that's what I am worried about. The chassis is getting pretty soft. I'm sure it would last if I needed it to though.


None f what I want would be projects, at least for the most part. I'm aiming for something that's ready to go out of the box and I know they are all out there for a decent price. Eventually it would turn into a toy but not for a while; hence why I am only considering lesser models with the 4 and 6 cylinder engines.

 

[homeforsummer]

What's your budget, out of interest? I'd have said Ranger too since it at least gets close to what you want but it's more sensible when you don't have much money to burn. Easily the sort of thing you could make "your own" as well.

 

[Slash]

At the present moment, I'm broke as a skunk and have literally maybe $10 to my name. Provided I pass my road test and start working ASAP (and you both know my situation and whatnot right now), I'm not looking to spend more than $2,500 outright on a vehicle. I have a feeling a newer Ranger might be more than that, but I definitely know the rest can be squired even with V8s for less than that. If it ends up costing more in parts over time, that's fine, but for something drive able out of the box I don't want to spend much more than that. We are talking at least a year from now, though maybe sooner. It depends.

 

[michrulejj]

I saw just get a Fox, 1 they are dirt cheap. 2 They are everywhere parts are around every corner, and 3 Its the easiest to mount a LS1 in 👍... Or 383 Stroker if you wanted.

 

[Team THRT Drift]

Get the Ranger. I have the '07 and I love it. Cheap build quality but a tough truck. The mid-80's Ranger are even tougher. They-re worth it.

 

[Slash]

I saw just get a Fox, 1 they are dirt cheap. 2 They are everywhere parts are around every corner, and 3 Its the easiest to mount a LS1 in 👍... Or 383 Stroker if you wanted.

I'm actually thinking about ruling the Fox out...just ebcause everyone and their mother has one. I'm almost considering a II over the Fox.


No Chevy motor is ever going into any Ford I own.

Get the Ranger. I have the '07 and I love it. Cheap build quality but a tough truck. The mid-80's Ranger are even tougher. They-re worth it.

I definitely would look at the 80s ones but at that point I might as well get a fullsize. 80s Ford trucks are nasty machines.

 

[MrWednesday]

2.3L Ranger could get the turbo version on the engine dropped in later on.

 

[Slash]

2.3L Ranger could get the turbo version on the engine dropped in later on.

That's always a possibility.


My friend has a 94 Ranger with a 5 speed and a 2.3L and he hasn't had a lot of issues with it but it seems to be a money pit as far as the little things go. That's why I'm a bit worried.

 

[JMoney]

I'd go for the older truck, I dislike my Dad's '96 Ranger because it doesn't have much power, and it's the 4.0, with more power than the 2.3. I don't know what the older F-150's put out but I'm sure it's more than the I4 Ranger.

 

[Slash]

If I was going to go with an older full size it would have to be at least an F250. I'm not a fan of the twin I beam front IFS in the lighter duty pickups.

The 4.9L I6 in those years made a whopping 117 horsepower (its best with EFI was about 175) but they made as much torque as a 302 V8 at diesel like RPM's. I had one of these engines in the F250 we have and my lord that thing would pull a house down and get 16mph doing it through an automatic. I'll definitely keep these in mind. Seems to be the popular vote.

 

[MrWednesday]

I'd go for the older truck, I dislike my Dad's '96 Ranger because it doesn't have much power, and it's the 4.0, with more power than the 2.3. I don't know what the older F-150's put out but I'm sure it's more than the I4 Ranger.

4.0 was around 150 HP in pushrod form.

I think (but don't know for sure) the OHC version would be a drop-in and would put you around 200-210 HP.

 

[Slash]

I'm not really concerned with power output. 85hp 4 cylinders are find with me, simply because it's just temporary. Power output is not a priority. Although it would probablky be a downgrade from the 160 I have now.