The Must Have Upgrade for any Logitech G Wheel Owner

[jl1101]

Will definitely get the new throttle spring.
However, for the clutch, I've been using the old brake spring as my clutch spring per your advice since I got the GTEYE brake spring and it's been good.
How does the new GTEYE clutch spring feel compared to that? I really would like to be persuaded to get the new clutch spring too.

GTEYE is proud to announce the release of enhanced Throttle and Clutch springs for Logitech G25 / G27 Racing Wheel.

Complimenting the existing progressive brake spring GTEYE now offers a full pedal set upgrade for a well rounded and balanced feel.

Prices, ordering and more information at www.gteye.com.au

 

[GTEYE]

Will definitely get the new throttle spring.
However, for the clutch, I've been using the old brake spring as my clutch spring per your advice since I got the GTEYE brake spring and it's been good.
How does the new GTEYE clutch spring feel compared to that? I really would like to be persuaded to get the new clutch spring too.

The GTEYE clutch is around 20% firmer than the Logitech Brake. Whilst the Logitech brake spring is OK together with the Logitech throttle spring, the firmer GTEYE throttle closes the gap and there is not as much definition between the Logitech Brake and GTEYE Throttle. When using the GTEYE throttle and clutch together, their relationship is perfectly balanced and defined.

I put in a lot of time ensuring the relationship between all 3 pedals is proportionate. This is really important since if one is out of step with the others it gives a strange unnatural feeling.

Below is a graph representing the GTEYE Clutch vs Logitech Brake.

Below is a graph representing all 3 GTEYE springs, showing their relationship to each other.

 

[Kurei]

I bought the brake spring sometime back earlier this year for my brand-new G27, and I absolutely loved it, plus it had a hand-written "Enjoy!" card along with it. I imagine the same will be said of the new throttle & clutch springs when I make that purchase early next month 👍

 

[Dalone]

Changing Spring Without Removing Base (gas pedal shown, but same procedure for all pedals.

Step 1: Remove screws holding top section of spring cover in place.
Step 2: Pull up on the top section of the spring cover.
Step 3: Remove Spring and replace into lower spring cover.
Step 4: Install top spring cover make sure that that upper spring cover slides over the lower spring cover. Use the allen wrench or screw driver to push down on the top of the lower spring cover. Image 231 shows the the upper spring cover in the wrong position prior to being place down by the allen wrench in to the right position, as per image 233.
Step 5: Push down on the top spring cover. The spring will seat itself.
Step 6: Align the top spring cover section holes and reinstall screws.
That should have taken you about five minutes. Repeat for all pedals.
View attachment 102174

View attachment 102176

I've had my GTEYE spring (brake) for a while but never got around to installing it, so I'm glad l waited and saw this method.
Worked for me although took me more than 5 minutes. Think it took at least 5 minutes just to take out the screws.
Haven't tried it yet but will soon. Thanks for posting it, Dansk. Cheers.
And I only opened the packed today before installing and it also contained the handwritten Enjoy! Thought that was a nice gesture.
Ha ha, I find now, July 2015, that there is also a throttle spring on sale. I'll wait and see what others say about it first. I don't use the clutch and didn't change the original throttle spring.

 

[sherpa25]

Having used mine for around 6-8 months, I now wish they were stiffer. Maybe partly that my foot got used to the tension but the spring now feels bit softer than when it was new. But moreso after trying Elite pedals (even at the lowest setting of 10), w/c I recently got. I would now say it would be nice if they make it a bit more stiffer.

 

[VBR]

I bought the NIXIM brake mod. Like the GTEYE it is a dual stage spring, but it also has the added benefit of a rubber block which makes it very stiff at the end of it's travel.

 

[sherpa25]

I bought the NIXIM brake mod. Like the GTEYE it is a dual stage spring, but it also has the added benefit of a rubber block which makes it very stiff at the end of it's travel.

Is there a newer Nixim? I should have bought that before if its stiffer. Read before they were the same. Though on the G27, one improvement could be the length of travel. Has anyone tried adding some washers/coins to shorten travel?

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

I have tried both springs and prefer the stock (longer) brake pedal travel of the GTEYE vs the reduced travel of the NIXIM. Also found the first 50% or more of the NIXIM is very soft until the pedal hits the rubber insert.

 

[VBR]

Is there a newer Nixim? I should have bought that before if its stiffer. Read before they were the same. Though on the G27, one improvement could be the length of travel. Has anyone tried adding some washers/coins to shorten travel?

I have tried both springs and prefer the stock (longer) brake pedal travel of the GTEYE vs the reduced travel of the NIXIM. Also found the first 50% or more of the NIXIM is very soft until the pedal hits the rubber insert.

Maybe the best solution is to buy both & use the GTEYE brake spring combined with the NIXIM rubber block.

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

For me there's an advantage with the longer travel, so without the rubber insert is my preference.

 

[sherpa25]

For me there's an advantage with the longer travel, so without the rubber insert is my preference.

Oh, I thought the Nixim spring was stiffer than stock, and just adds progression/more stiffness at the end when it reaches the rubber.

Would you mind sharing how long the travel is with the Nixim... would like to compare with that in the GTEye. Thanks.

 

[GTEYE]

The spring rate progression is carefully considered from a number of aspects.
Below you can see a graph comparing the original brake spring with the GTEYE brake spring, which begins very similar to the original spring, then increases +80%, for most people this is the perfect amount of firmness to modulate the pedal with improved feel, and still maintain full travel as required.

Next graph shows the difference between all pedals with GTEYE springs installed.
From this point of view we placed great care in ensuring the relationship between each pedal was proportionately realistic and balanced with one another.

As an insight to how we achieve these results, please take a look at the link below

http://www.gteye.com.au/how-does-the-gteye-spring-work

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

Travel with the GTEYE spring is the same as stock. Travel with the NIXIM will be reduced In relation to length of the insert used- it can be cut to preferred length. I cut down the rubber insert a few times but still had 3/8" less travel compared to stock and GTEYE.

Just in case I've confused anyone, more travel is better and the GTEYE also has a good progressive feel through the full range.

 

[sherpa25]

The spring rate progression is carefully considered from a number of aspects.
Below you can see a graph comparing the original brake spring with the GTEYE brake spring, which begins very similar to the original spring, then increases +80%, for most people this is the perfect amount of firmness to modulate the pedal with improved feel, and still maintain full travel as required.

Next graph shows the difference between all pedals with GTEYE springs installed.
From this point of view we placed great care in ensuring the relationship between each pedal was proportionately realistic and balanced with one another.

As an insight to how we achieve these results, please take a look at the link below

http://www.gteye.com.au/how-does-the-gteye-spring-work

Thanks GTEye. Not contesting it, but rather just giving my experience and would prefer a rather stiffer spring even at the earlier stages of deflection. I guess after several months of usage, it's starting to soften? Not sure. Or perhaps it would be nice if the stiffness/progression started slightly earlier, to get the feeling of stiffness? From my feel, I think my spring doesn't reflect the graph you post, somewhat having a much steeper curve (like with an increased gamma where the lower deflections are quite light) and gets the stiffness only when I press at around 80-85+%. Of course this is subjective and just how I feel my springs perform.

 

[sherpa25]

Travel with the GTEYE spring is the same as stock. Travel with the NIXIM will be reduced In relation to length of the insert used- it can be cut to preferred length. I cut down the rubber insert a few times but still had 3/8" less travel compared to stock and GTEYE.

Just in case I've confused anyone, more travel is better and the GTEYE also has a good progressive feel through the full range.

Thanks. A reduction of 3/8" seems nice, from the current travel of my G27 brakes (like 2"). I tried measuring my real car brakes to be around 1.5+" (my Elite's have around 1.2" only of travel and is somewhat too short for me, OTOH). Which is why I've been thinking if adding some coins into the G27 brakes would perhaps help with this.

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

NIXIM is softer in the first 50-60% of travel compared to GTEYE. I found I was having difficulty trail braking, especially with the reduced travel.

 

[sherpa25]

NIXIM is softer in the first 50-60% of travel compared to GTEYE.

Yeah, subjectively, that doesn't sound too nice

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

I went back and forth between the two for several weeks and recorded timed laps to compare. It's in an old thread somewhere around here.

 

[VBR]

Just in case I've confused anyone, more travel is better imo and the GTEYE also has a good progressive feel through the full range.

There, I fixed that for you.

I like the NIXIM just fine, & didn't notice any reduced travel, although it might be there it makes no difference for me. I do agree that it could be stiffer in the first part, although again it's not a big problem for me. I might buy the GTEYE & use that with the NIXIM rubber block for more stiffness, but I'm mostly happy with the NIXIM Version 2 brake mod I have.

Is your NIXIM a V1 or V2?

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

I have V2 and I did like it. It's better than the stock spring.

For me there's an advantage with the longer travel, so without the rubber insert is my preference.

You didn't have to fix anything.

 

[AussieStig]

I've had my GTEYE spring (brake) for a while but never got around to installing it, so I'm glad l waited and saw this method.
Worked for me although took me more than 5 minutes. Think it took at least 5 minutes just to take out the screws.
Haven't tried it yet but will soon. Thanks for posting it, Dansk. Cheers.
And I only opened the packed today before installing and it also contained the handwritten Enjoy! Thought that was a nice gesture.
Ha ha, I find now, July 2015, that there is also a throttle spring on sale. I'll wait and see what others say about it first. I don't use the clutch and didn't change the original throttle spring.

Where's the pics mate?

 

[NIXIM]

I have tried both sprinyogs and prefer the stock (longer) brake pedal travel of the GTEYE vs the reduced travel of the NIXIM. Also found the first 50% or more of the NIXIM is very soft until the pedal hits the rubber insert.

Hi
The NIXIM spring reduces the overall pedal travel by about 1mm maximum really not even noticable. Also the NIXIM spring without rubber buffer is actually softer than the GTEye spring.
Fitting the rubber buffer makes the pedal much stiffer in the final stages though this does not limit the pedal movement any further at all.
Real hydraulic brake pedals have a small amount of initial free movement where you press the pedal as the brake pads clamp onto the brake disc, until you reach this point there is no effect on the cars speed. The tight coils on the NIXIM spring mimic this stage and you should set a 35 degree deadzone in your brake software settings to calibrate this. This can also be very finely tuned to perfection and I will expand on this further if asked. So if you are suggesting the pedal is too soft in the initial stage you have not set the deadzone correctly (if at all) We then recommend you set the brake sensitivity as low as comfortably possible to increase the pedal resistance.

When the tight coils have closed you then start to compress the loser coils of the spring and this is where the brake pedal slows the car according to foot pressure applied. Yes it is dependent on the rotation of the pedal potentiometer which is related to pedal movement but the driver only works with intuitive foot pressure as in any real car.
As you further compress the wider spring coils then you also begin to compress the rubber buffer which makes the pedal considerably harder but no harder than a real brake pedal - in fact a good deal softer than a real racing brake really. By the time you have almost full pedal travel you should ideally have all four wheel locked solid (without traction control) at which point you can back off with foot pressure to the point at which the wheel grip the road and rotate again.
A real racing brake is incredibly hard, Lewis Hamilton is reputed to place at least twice his own body weight on the brake pedal when braking hard. And the reason for this? - is quite simply the harder your brake pedal the wider range of sensitivity you have when braking, therefore more feeling and ultimately more car control. Common sense when you think about it. If you have a soft pedal to start with and if it does not get very much stiffer as you press it then you have less feel to control your braking with, therefore less car control.
Without software adjustments the NIXIM mod will vastly improve feel and braking, but the mod was designed with perfection in mind, and to achieve perfection you do have to adjust your software to match the characteristics of the equipment you are using, - part of the learning curve guys. , but to better feel the car you are driving you have to do it.

Dave

 

[Dalone]

Where's the pics mate?

Pictures of doing it without pulling it apart? Sorry, don't know how to do pics here, which explains why I don't even have an avatar. Crikey, I'm 68, what do you expect from us old blokes?
And when I said it took me 5 minutes to take the two screws out it was because I dropped one inside the cover and had to magnetise a screwdriver to get it out, but getting them back in again was the tricky bit although I filled all the gaps in the casing first.
I'm currently doing the Daytona race with the SRT Tomahawk (Seasonals) and for the first time in my life I'm using my left foot to brake with, works a treat. At the moment I'm on 1'10.616 for pos #470.

 

[AussieStig]

Pictures of doing it without pulling it apart? Sorry, don't know how to do pics here, which explains why I don't even have an avatar. Crikey, I'm 68, what do you expect from us old blokes?
And when I said it took me 5 minutes to take the two screws out it was because I dropped one inside the cover and had to magnetise a screwdriver to get it out, but getting them back in again was the tricky bit although I filled all the gaps in the casing first.
I'm currently doing the Daytona race with the SRT Tomahawk (Seasonals) and for the first time in my life I'm using my left foot to brake with, works a treat. At the moment I'm on 1'10.616 for pos #470.

Thanks for the reply mate, appreciate it. No worries about the pics, glad you got it sorted and didn't lose the screws. Good luck with the Daytona race as well.

Cheers mate, AussieStig

 

[GTEYE]

Yes, it is actually possible to remove the springs without opening the cover. As explained in a previous post, removing the two upper screws and pulling the piston up firmly will allow the assembly to pop out.

It can be tricky to reassemble the piston, and force is required, it does make a mark on the piston and casing when doing this, and there is a risk you could damage the spring or piston if not done correctly.

 

[CBH]

Hey @GTEYE I just let you know my brake spring snap in half, and after over 2 years of use that is not bad. So I just ordered another one. 👍

 

[AussieStig]

Yes, it is actually possible to remove the springs without opening the cover. As explained in a previous post, removing the two upper screws and pulling the piston up firmly will allow the assembly to pop out.

It can be tricky to reassemble the piston, and force is required, it does make a mark on the piston and casing when doing this, and there is a risk you could damage the spring or piston if not done correctly.

I tried this method, but I wasn't prepared to damage the piston or anything else so I went ahead and installed the springs as per GTEYE's instructions. Took a little longer, but not a hassle to do it this way. The instructions are very clear and well laid out. To make it easier I did place the pedal base upside down on an empty shoebox. This keeps the the pedal base stable whilst removing the screws.

Cheers AussieStig

 

[sherpa25]

Hey @GTEYE I just let you know my brake spring snap in half, and after over 2 years of use that is not bad. So I just ordered another one. 👍

Wow, how'd that happen, since it just goes in one direction?

 

[CBH]

Wow, how'd that happen, since it just goes in one direction?

First I notice was when I put my foot on the brake it was staying on even when I took my foot of the peddle, so I open up the casing and have a look. The red tube seem loose so I went to have a look at the spring and I notice it was in half in the red tube, I could not believe it how could this have happen.

 

[GTEYE]

@hall90 we have a warranty which will cover you if thats the case.
Please send me a PM with the details and we can sort it out.