The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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Not. Nobody take the wheel apart of me.

This new crunch noise is bigger when wheel is cold, and it reduces when it takes temperature.

Buddy, I have not a clue. I was just thinking maybe a child might have put a lego or lincoln log something down in it. Stuff happens you know?
 
rebla47
Not. Nobody take the wheel apart of me.

This new crunch noise is bigger when wheel is cold, and it reduces when it takes temperature.

How long have you got the wheel? It might be the carbon brushes in the motor that are starting to break in.
Maybe you could make a movie or something so that we can try to recognize the noise?

Anyway on the Thrustmaster support site it said that the wheel needs a while to break in. So maybe it's that.
 
Buddy, I have not a clue. I was just thinking maybe a child might have put a lego or lincoln log something down in it. Stuff happens you know?

I know, friend. But there isn´t any hole in the T500 where to enter a Lego part or similar... :)

How long have you got the wheel? It might be the carbon brushes in the motor that are starting to break in.
Maybe you could make a movie or something so that we can try to recognize the noise?

Anyway on the Thrustmaster support site it said that the wheel needs a while to break in. So maybe it's that.

It´s a V2, purchased in March. It has a time of use (not much: around 5 hours per week). I have my wheel fixed to a sturdy cockpit since 6 weeks.

Curiously, this crunch sound started past week, after a pair of weeks with the wheel off.

Yesterday I tested it again, and it comes from the top cover (and I think from another part of the plastic case, also). It sounds when I push the top cover with my hands, and playing, with the force feedback torsion, turning the wheel.

I´m convinced that is a problem caused by the poor quality of the plastic case. This wheel, to have been arguably the best, should bring a metal case, as the pedals or the shifter (like the Logitech Momo "red" or ECCI Wheels): it would have been stronger, and better cooling

But of course: there would haven´t cost between 400 and 500 €, it is clear.


I will try to record a video early.

Thanks.
 
For anyone that needs the English fan replacement instructions for any reason I have scanned and uploaded them for reference.

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/4/22/1878232/T500RS_fan_instr.pdf

On the page that is displayed click the grey "Download This File" button on the lower part of the page. Then you will be shown some characters. Enter these in the white text box and then click "Download Now". A download dialog should pop up allowing you to save or open the file.
 
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Are you referring to the link in my last post, or something else?
It works fine for me. Can someone else please test it also, and report back?

Wouldn't work for me either .......Said the file had either been damaged or sent as an email attachment and wasn't decoded properly
 
Damn, can't trust any file hosting service nowadays! I uploaded it to Fileden instead. Refresh and try the new link now.
 
Well Saturday night I had a serious problem develop with my pedals.

Here is a video that shows the failure.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1y0vOhuSa5w&feature=youtube_gdata_player

This happen about 10:15pm. I had one TIme Trial to complete by midnight. I was thinking how I am gonna fix this. So off of the cockpit come the pedals and I get them apart to access the problem. Seeing its a torsion spring. Knowing I don't have one not was any hardware stores open to search for one. So it hit me. My clutch is a gas if I invert these. So swap their locations and hit the invert button should work. Fast forward about 45 min. I got then switched and working. Bolted up and by 15 after 11 I was in Spa making laps.

Now the catch is my gas pedal feels good now. Before I had trouble off turns with throttle control. Seemed touchy. Now I know the old spring was week and prob broken for a bit. It makes sense. Much better throttle now. I assume the spring broke mid way and still worked for a while. Finally jumped the broken area and reduced the 0% spring tension to nothing.

Anyway. Gonna hit TM up today about warranty. Now that's a pedal issue and fan issue. These things are seriously subjective in quality.
 
Well Saturday night I had a serious problem develop with my pedals.

Here is a video that shows the failure.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1y0vOhuSa5w&feature=youtube_gdata_player

This happen about 10:15pm. I had one TIme Trial to complete by midnight. I was thinking how I am gonna fix this. So off of the cockpit come the pedals and I get them apart to access the problem. Seeing its a torsion spring. Knowing I don't have one not was any hardware stores open to search for one. So it hit me. My clutch is a gas if I invert these. So swap their locations and hit the invert button should work. Fast forward about 45 min. I got then switched and working. Bolted up and by 15 after 11 I was in Spa making laps.

Now the catch is my gas pedal feels good now. Before I had trouble off turns with throttle control. Seemed touchy. Now I know the old spring was week and prob broken for a bit. It makes sense. Much better throttle now. I assume the spring broke mid way and still worked for a while. Finally jumped the broken area and reduced the 0% spring tension to nothing.

Anyway. Gonna hit TM up today about warranty. Now that's a pedal issue and fan issue. These things are seriously subjective in quality.

Hope they send a replacement soon. Haven't heard about springs failing with the T500 before though. Let's hope it's just an incident and it doesn't happen to the rest of us. :nervous:
 
I just sent my T500RS back to the store for replacement. I was doing the GT-R 07 trophy on Nur when suddenly the left paddle shifter stopped working.
Hmmm, let's hope this doesn't become a trend ...
 
Hey Guys I noticed this news posting in iRacing in which I thought was very cool:

Congratulations to Rick Wheeler of Maine, USA, the winner of the Season 3 Thrustmaster Sponsorship Contest. Wheeler ran the Thrustmaster logo in at least 10 official races in Season 3. By doing so, he was automatically entered to win a Thrustmaster T500RS wheel and pedal set courtesy of Thrustmaster and WON!

Don’t worry if you didn’t win. Thrustmaster is bringing the contest back for Season 4 (Nov 1 – Jan 23). All you have to do is display the Thrustmaster logo (found in the Paint Shop Sponsor Dropdown) in the primary sponsor location on your car AND race in a least 10 official races during Season 4. By doing so, you’ll be automatically entered to win one of these great Thrustmaster T500RS wheels. It’s that easy.

For more information on the T500RS, go to www.thrustmaster.com/

I've always ran Thrustmaster as my official sponser anyways so I have no problem with that :sly:

Would be funny if I won a 2nd Thrustmaster wheel

Well Saturday night I had a serious problem develop with my pedals.

Here is a video that shows the failure.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1y0vOhuSa5w&feature=youtube_gdata_player

This happen about 10:15pm. I had one TIme Trial to complete by midnight. I was thinking how I am gonna fix this. So off of the cockpit come the pedals and I get them apart to access the problem. Seeing its a torsion spring. Knowing I don't have one not was any hardware stores open to search for one. So it hit me. My clutch is a gas if I invert these. So swap their locations and hit the invert button should work. Fast forward about 45 min. I got then switched and working. Bolted up and by 15 after 11 I was in Spa making laps.

Now the catch is my gas pedal feels good now. Before I had trouble off turns with throttle control. Seemed touchy. Now I know the old spring was week and prob broken for a bit. It makes sense. Much better throttle now. I assume the spring broke mid way and still worked for a while. Finally jumped the broken area and reduced the 0% spring tension to nothing.

Anyway. Gonna hit TM up today about warranty. Now that's a pedal issue and fan issue. These things are seriously subjective in quality.

That sucks man. These pedals always seem so well built. Hard to imagine them going bust. Now a fan problem I can believe. I am starting to notice mine a bit more when I'm idle / afk. So I make sure to turn it off when I'm not racing
 
I have a big problem with my T500!!! No matter what I use PS3 or PC the wheel calibrates to 2' to the right of centre. I've updated the firmware to v.38 and still no resolve. I am awaiting a response from Thrustmaster tech. support but was wondering if anyone on here has experienced the same problem.
I power the wheel up the plug into PS3 and then turn the PS3 on which has worked fine up till now. It started happening after a major shunt into a wall on Deep Forest, the wheel never returned to centre after the mobile mechanics worked their magic.
After this i bit the bullet and acquired a windows computer to perform the update to the firmware and it still calibrates to the 2' to the right.
In the software the rotation is set to 1080' and is off centre by 2' which puts the left and right rotation limits out aswell (left 1 1/2 turns and it stops at bottom centre, right the wheel stops turning at 2' from bottom centre to the right)
The wheel still works but is basically un drivable in game with the centre off by that much.
I am feeling there may be a sensor that has been jolted from its position but am reluctant to disassemble the unit until I hear back from TM??
Any help would be much appreciated.
 
CALIBRATING THE WHEEL AND THE WHEEL’S CENTRAL VALUE
(If the wheel’s central value is not perfect in Games or in the Control Panel):


1. FIRMWARE UPDATE:

a) Verify that the wheel’s firmware is up-to-date with the very latest version (V38).
[Once the Force Feedback drivers have been installed, your wheel’s firmware version is displayed in the upper right-hand corner of the Control Panel tabs.]

b) Update the wheel’s firmware if the version displayed is earlier than version 38.


2. PROCEDURE TO PERFECTLY CENTER THE WHEEL:

a) Once the wheel is connected (and after the wheel has calibrated itself), turn the wheel completely to the left and then completely to the right.

b) Next, move the wheel to its perfectly centered position.

c) Simultaneously press and then release the “START + SELECT + MODE” buttons.

d) The wheel’s new central value is automatically and permanently saved in the wheel’s internal Flash memory.
Note: do not repeat this procedure each time you reconnect the wheel.



IMPORTANT: Be sure not to not use this procedure too often, since there is a limited number of times that changes can be written to the wheel’s internal Flash memory.



Here you go, hope it solves your problem. 👍
 
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Energizerrr
CALIBRATING THE WHEEL AND THE WHEEL’S CENTRAL VALUE

If the wheel’s central value is not perfect in Games or in the Control Panel:

1. FIRMWARE UPDATE:

a) Verify that the wheel’s firmware is up-to-date with the very latest version (V38).
[Once the Force Feedback drivers have been installed, your wheel’s firmware version is displayed in the upper right-hand corner of the Control Panel tabs.]

b) Update the wheel’s firmware if the version displayed is earlier than version 38.

2. PROCEDURE TO PERFECTLY CENTER THE WHEEL:

a) Once the wheel is connected (and after the wheel has calibrated itself), turn the wheel completely to the left and then completely to the right.

b) Next, move the wheel to its perfectly centered position.

c) Simultaneously press and then release the “START + SELECT + MODE” buttons.

d) The wheel’s new central value is automatically and permanently saved in the wheel’s internal Flash memory
(note: do not repeat this procedure each time you reconnect the wheel).

IMPORTANT: Be sure not to not use this procedure too often, since there is a limited number of times that changes can be written to the wheel’s internal Flash memory.

Here you go, hope it solves your problem. 👍

Thankyou very much Energizerrr I will do this as soon as I get home. I will post how it goes once complete. 👍 👍 :)

EDIT: this worked 1st time :) 👍 thanks again Energizerrr :cheers:
 
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I have been a long time reader and sorry about this desperate question which is my first post :):

Must I use a Windows PC to upgrade the firmware? I only have a PS3 and a Mac and I no longer have Windows installed on it. The F1 add-on has just arrived and I am finding a way to upgrade the firmware to use it.

Thanks a lot for your help!
 
QTI
I have been a long time reader and sorry about this desperate question which is my first post :):

Must I use a Windows PC to upgrade the firmware? I only have a PS3 and a Mac and I no longer have Windows installed on it. The F1 add-on has just arrived and I am finding a way to upgrade the firmware to use it.

Thanks a lot for your help!

afaik you need access to a pc to update firmware since it cannot be done using PS3
 
QTI your situation sucks I feel for ya. Try to bring the wheel to a friend to flash it. That really sucks you pay all that money and cant use it
 
Thanks lunar wolf and sandboxgod - guess I have to ask around. Will try to borrow a laptop or netbook if I can, as I am not sure I want to lug the wheel around which is quite heavy!
 
You don't need pedal set for firmware update = base + power supply + GT wheel is enough (like explain on user manual it's recommended to use GT wheel and not F1 wheel for V38 update)
 
What does FM v38 do?

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=1&fid=2&pid=316&cid=15

FIRMWARE V38

Changes:

- FERRARI F1 racing wheel compatibility added
(this new firmware is compatible with both T500 RS racing wheels, i.e. the GT and Ferrari F1 wheels).

This firmware includes the previous changes:

- BOOTLOADER: Added protection and recovery procedure to avoid any risk of definitive firmware loss = V37

- FLASH MEMORY: Added protection to avoid potential flash corruption. = V35

- PEDALS: Improved Precision = V33

- “MODE” BUTTON: Now necessary to press this button for one second to invert the pedal set position (to avoid unintended inversion during gameplay). = V33

- Wheel’s calibration optimization + Wheel’s central value detection optimization = V32



The update procedure is performed through your wheel only, you don’t need your pedal set for this operation.

Before installing the FERRARI F1 wheel on your T500 RS base, it is essential that you first update your base's firmware with V38.
 
Does anybody know where I can actually test the T500RS in action here in Japan. I've been to Akihabara and the only place I found the wheel on display-only was in Yodabashi. It was nice to actually sit in it and feel the wheel and pedals, but they didn't have it setup for play. It was on display with the Playseat GT which is a bad idea because the amount of wobble the wheel had was too much to actually appreciate the wheel quality itself. The pedal angle is great though, not steep at all. Anyways, please let me know if anyone knows where I can find a T500rs for testing in Japan. Thank you all.... Arigato Gozaimasu!!!
 
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