The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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Thanks WildRun.

This is what mentioned there:

Important notes regarding PEDAL CALIBRATION AND PRECISION:
1) Confirm that your racing wheel features the latest available firmware release (V 37).
2) Always connect the pedal set to the racing wheel before connecting the racing wheel to your PlayStation®3 system or PC.
3) Never depress the pedals during the racing wheel’s auto-calibration phase!
You should only depress the pedals when the racing wheel’s calibration process is complete and the wheel has returned to the centre position (otherwise, please exit the game, then disconnect and reconnect the racing wheel from your PlayStation®3 system or PC’s USB connector)
4) Once the racing wheel’s auto-calibration phase is complete (and only then), pedal calibration will occur automatically after a few presses
5) Brake pedal with the "Realistic Brake" mod: if you have trouble reaching the maximum calibration values for the brake pedal: briefly stand on the pedal to reach the maximum values, then release the pedal.


I just tried to connect the wheel to my laptop.
It has firmware V38 and no brake mod
After calibration, all pedals indicators are normal (on the Thrustmaster control panel)
But just after a few presses, the throttle pedal didn't engaged fully, its down by 1 bar (so only 90% throttle)
One more thing, when I tried to gently press the pedal gradually from minimum to maximum travel, the indicator shows some spiking values. :crazy:

It didn't happened on the clutch pedal, maybe because I rarely use it.
 
Pictures from 24 hours of Le Mans 2012:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.456668877694186.120621.177715455589531&type=1

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..............I just tried to connect the wheel to my laptop.
It has firmware V38 and no brake mod
After calibration, all pedals indicators are normal (on the Thrustmaster control panel)
But just after a few presses, the throttle pedal didn't engaged fully, its down by 1 bar (so only 90% throttle)
One more thing, when I tried to gently press the pedal gradually from minimum to maximum travel, the indicator shows some spiking values. :crazy:

It didn't happened on the clutch pedal, maybe because I rarely use it.

I have also had this problem. I removed the panels from the pedal assembly to see if I could see a problem with the link from pedal to potentiometer. The "rack and pinion" gears seemed to be in good condition and working properly. I checked the nut next to the pinion gear that retains the pot. It wasn't loose but I gently tightened it anyway and that seemed to take the spiking away. Pedals worked correctly after doing this and now after 6 months , the brake is starting to show this problem again.

I have had to do this on two occasions now , once for the throttle and again for the brake. I wish I had found a more substantial problem that could perhaps solve this problem permanently.

I hope this helps , I'd also be interested in others experience with this and their solutions.
 
Wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if there is a simple DIY solution.

I am having some trouble with one of the paddle shifters. From new the right shifter always took a little sharper actuation to engage than the left but it was always perfectly usable. Recently it just stopped shifting.

I removed the wheel and the plastic ring that covers the shifter assembly. The shifter works perfectly like this since it was just hitting the plastic ring. I didn't see any purpose to the plastic ring, so I left it off and put the wheel back on. Now shifter throw is longer but working perfectly.

Is there a way to adjust the shifter so that I can put the ring back on?
 
I'm racon in GT5, a moment ago my fan cranked way up and sounded a bit rough with a constant vibration. I paused immediately to shoot a quick video which didn't really capture it.

Is this worth an email to Thrustmaster?

V1 wheel, FFB set at 7, on Tarmac at Tsukuba.
 
I'm racon in GT5, a moment ago my fan cranked way up and sounded a bit rough with a constant vibration. I paused immediately to shoot a quick video which didn't really capture it.

Is this worth an email to Thrustmaster?

V1 wheel, FFB set at 7, on Tarmac at Tsukuba.

feedback at 7 :scared:
even 1 is more than sufficient, which is probably why the fans are scrambling to cool down the unit. unfortunately the fans, while they do the job, are a bit cheap and can get loud and shake around a bit
 
My fans eventually got better and now make some noise but no racket like before.

Used to run FFB 10. Then spoke with some aliens and they convinced me to use under 5. Most are using 1-3. I'm at 3 now.

This allows me to exit with a much smoother arc. Reduces the chop chop. Also tire wear went up a bunch. I dont make any extra stops compared to others now either.

Anyway with fans. If you can deal with it. Let them go. ;)
 
Wardez from GT Academy Finals here, we just found out that we have to use this wheel in the Nationals! Last year it was the DFGT wtf!

Anyway, please, give us some quick insight on how the transfer from DFGTs, G27s, or other wheels really is when using the T500, it'd be a lot of help since I don't think I want to really buy one just for this comp... but then again, should we?!

Thanks in advance!
 
Its worlds apart from a DFGT. I had one before I got the T500. Took a bit of getting used to But I'm sure if you got into the finals you'd be fine with some practise. Its A 300mm rim and its twice as powerful as a G27. It will literally pull the shoulders out of you. I was lifting weights a couple of months back and in the evening was on the T500, pulled muscles on both shoulders on FFB 10 lol its now on FFB 5. If you could afford the upgrade I would go for it, it would help you in the finals
 
Its worlds apart from a DFGT. I had one before I got the T500. Took a bit of getting used to But I'm sure if you got into the finals you'd be fine with some practise. Its A 300mm rim and its twice as powerful as a G27. It will literally pull the shoulders out of you. I was lifting weights a couple of months back and in the evening was on the T500, pulled muscles on both shoulders on FFB 10 lol its now on FFB 5. If you could afford the upgrade I would go for it, it would help you in the finals

I agree! With G27 and GT3RS (and before that with DFP) I used FFB 10. With T500 I set FFB 5. And it is still stronger than with the prior mentioned wheels.
 
Well that's good to hear 'cause we're all going to be using 5 anyway. Guys know of any deals for it anywhere, anyone looking to sell?

I'm concerned about the pedals though, I'm thinking they're just gonna be floor mounted, but how do they really feel compared to the G27 or CSP's?

Also, those stationery paddles, like them over floating paddles now?

And the 1080 degrees of rotation, is it a noticeable different at all in GT5 compared to 900?
 
I've not used csps or G27's, although someone here will have. I like the stationery paddles, because of the rotation of the wheel you can always hit the paddle your trying to change gear with. That was one thing I hated on the DFGT, say you were working the wheel and trying to change gear as well it is sometimes hard to hit those buttons. But these paddles are unmissable. The degrees of rotation will adjust depending on the car, so say its a ford focus rally car the degrees are the same 3/4 turn or something. Each car adjusts all by itself. I think on pc you can change to whatever setting you want, but thats only on pc gaming
 
Most road cars on gt5 are using 900* with the wheel but so far nascars only use the full 1080* as far as i know.
 
Wardez
Well that's good to hear 'cause we're all going to be using 5 anyway. Guys know of any deals for it anywhere, anyone looking to sell?

I'm concerned about the pedals though, I'm thinking they're just gonna be floor mounted, but how do they really feel compared to the G27 or CSP's?

Also, those stationery paddles, like them over floating paddles now?

And the 1080 degrees of rotation, is it a noticeable different at all in GT5 compared to 900?

If you haven't seen it already ISR did a review of the T500, and Shaun Cole explains what He had trouble getting used to, and the Paddles were one thing, but after awhile he got used to them. You should probably watch it in your spare time
 
Wardez
Wardez from GT Academy Finals here, we just found out that we have to use this wheel in the Nationals! Last year it was the DFGT wtf!

Anyway, please, give us some quick insight on how the transfer from DFGTs, G27s, or other wheels really is when using the T500, it'd be a lot of help since I don't think I want to really buy one just for this comp... but then again, should we?!

Thanks in advance!

Enjoy the feeling, watch your times go down, and say "wow I gotta get one of these!"
 
As mentioned the stationary paddles require some seat time to get used too. Considering you are using a rotating paddle.

As well the wheel in general has a totally different feel then my G27. I was slower for a week or so.

I'd recommend buying one. It's a great wheel. It's the exact thing you use for Academy finals. Only makes sense to prepare to the fullest.

Lastly. Whoop them all Eddie!
 
There's a DIY mod to make the paddle shifter moves like the ones on the G25/27/DFGT:



It involves some drilling. Anyway you can find the info right here on this forum: http://tiny.cc/dd2igw

Personally, I'd rather recommend that you give it some time and get use to the stationary shifters. Another option is the F1 wheel for the T500RS- that one has the shifter mounted on the wheel.
 
The stationary paddles took a little time to get used to but now I prefer them over the G27's. As for the pedals I think they are better than standard G27 pedals but not as good as a set with NIXIM modded brakes. You should try to find out if they will use the brake mod and if so what position.
 
mcfizzle
The stationary paddles took a little time to get used to but now I prefer them over the G27's. As for the pedals I think they are better than standard G27 pedals but not as good as a set with NIXIM modded brakes. You should try to find out if they will use the brake mod and if so what position.

I'd honestly be taking the real brake mod with me.

Be a good idea to look into the brake deal. If they are not using it. Then obviously you use it that way to train.

As well on the stationary paddles the biggest thing I have found is using one hand to hold wheel and go for paddle with other. Since fixed. Left is always down right is always up. That is nice. You will adapt here quickly IMO.
 
Well that's good to hear 'cause we're all going to be using 5 anyway. Guys know of any deals for it anywhere, anyone looking to sell?

I'm concerned about the pedals though, I'm thinking they're just gonna be floor mounted, but how do they really feel compared to the G27 or CSP's?

Also, those stationery paddles, like them over floating paddles now?

And the 1080 degrees of rotation, is it a noticeable different at all in GT5 compared to 900?

This is the only second hand wheel I've come across. Been considering selling mine and was curious on a price to sell it for.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290733254...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_677wt_1270
 
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