The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

[JohnBodin]

That would make this wheel a lot more fun to deal with!

I have a replacement switch from TM coming for my F1 wheel. I can certainly send you the old broken one once I get the replacement installed (I'll PM you). Also I have a couple broken switches from the GT paddles. I took a look at both sets of switches and the connectors are different so they aren't plug and play to swap between GT and F1 switches, but the board/switch/spring/foam look (without examining super close) pretty similar so my guess is it's just a different connector. The connector on the standard paddle module connects up to an extension cable which then goes into the circuit board inside the base, but the connector on the F1 switch goes directly into the board in the F1 rim... my guess is this connector is the only difference between the two, but your the expert not me.

It sounds like it's inevitable that my switches will eventually fail, too, so it would be nice to have a more durable solution ready and waiting -- and if I can produce something to help other T500 users, that would be even better!

 

[CLIFFO_83]

Thanks for your suggestions guys and such quick response.....I would be interested in the opinion of you guy's who have been using this pedal set for a while what is the most realistic ?
with the spring or without it ? or like CLIFFO_83 said just the foam.​

I removed the spring from the brake mod and gave it a crack with just the foam, it feels much better and not so stiff obviously:tup:

 

[stevefoz]

I removed the spring from the brake mod and gave it a crack with just the foam, it feels much better and not so stiff obviously:tup:

Cheers cliffo i'll give that a go and see how it feels.
So far so good with this wheel it's great,the static paddles takes a bit of getting used to.
The F1 add on is just great with F1 2012 👍

 

[Mr. S]

It sounds like it's inevitable that my switches will eventually fail, too, so it would be nice to have a more durable solution ready and waiting -- and if I can produce something to help other T500 users, that would be even better!

The one you linked could be soldered directly onto the old PCB, uh? So it'd be a direct replacement, so to say.

 

[JohnBodin]

The one you linked could be soldered directly onto the old PCB, uh? So it'd be a direct replacement, so to say.

Possibly -- I'm not 100% sure on that. I haven't had to replace my switches, so I haven't actually SEEN them "in person" yet.

Once WRP001 gets his replacement switches from Thrustmaster, he's going to send them on to me -- once I have his failed switches on-hand, I'll take some measurements and compare the dimensions and pinout to the spec sheets for the items that I've found, and if they look like direct replacements, I'll order a few to do an actual test fit.

If that goes well and they end up working, I'll let you all know.

For those of you who aren't handy at soldering, I may try to reproduce the small circuit boards and locate the proper connector, then build-up some "long-life" direct-fit replacement kits.

If the switches are direct replacements, I'll provide the necessary links so that Do-It-Yourself types can do it themselves.

 

[JohnBodin]

I removed the spring from the brake mod and gave it a crack with just the foam, it feels much better and not so stiff obviously:tup:

FYI, my load cell mod is roughly about as stiff as the brake mod WITH the spring, but it is a LOT easier to properly modulate your brake input because with the load cell you're using pressure to modulate your braking, and not distance like you have to do with the brake mod and a potentiometer-based brake.

In other words, the brake mod limits the distance you have, which means your effective brake pedal range is very, VERY small with the stock pedals -- with the load cell mod, the distance doesn't matter at all . . . what matters is how hard you're pressing. The distance just provides for some additional feel, but at the end of the day, it's still the amount of pressure that matters, NOT the distance you move the pedal.

Just my $0.02.

 

[WRP001]

Once WRP001 gets his replacement switches from Thrustmaster, he's going to send them on to me -- once I have his failed switches on-hand, I'll take some measurements and compare the dimensions and pinout to the spec sheets for the items that I've found, and if they look like direct replacements, I'll order a few to do an actual test fit.

I got a notice from TM that the replacement switch was shipped yesterday... Of course they send them via USPS with a tracking number that can't actually be tracked so I have no estimate when they'll arrive. Hopefully by the middle of next week.

They better come by Oct 12 because I'm off to Hawaii for a week on the 13th. 👍

 

[JohnBodin]

I got a notice from TM that the replacement switch was shipped yesterday... Of course they send them via USPS with a tracking number that can't actually be tracked so I have no estimate when they'll arrive. Hopefully by the middle of next week.

They better come by Oct 12 because I'm off to Hawaii for a week on the 13th. 👍

Ah, living the hard-knock life, I see!

 

[WildRun]

Now with some rotary knobs or paddle shifter directly on the plate:

... also this version:

 

[JorgeANeto]

Hi guys, sorry but I couldn't find an answer through search engine.

I've lost the top screw of my T500rs (that screw which we have to tight / untight in order to attach / dettach the steering wheels - in my case I switch between the regular wheel and F1 addon wheel).

Short question, somebody knows the size of that screw to allow me buy a fresh one? And its shape (don't remember if is a pointy or flat end screw). TM support didn't answer me.

Kind regards.

 

[NeoAgent]

Hi guys, sorry but I couldn't find an answer through search engine.

I've lost the top screw of my T500rs (that screw which we have to tight / untight in order to attach / dettach the steering wheels - in my case I switch between the regular wheel and F1 addon wheel).

Short question, somebody knows the size of that screw to allow me buy a fresh one? And its shape (don't remember if is a pointy or flat end screw). TM support didn't answer me.

Kind regards.

Not sure of size but here are a couple of pics, hope this helps some.

 

[JorgeANeto]

Hi NeoAgent, thank you so much! It's not clear the real size but considering the width of the screw's hole and considering the picture's I guess I can estimate the w/l ratio.

 

[NeoAgent]

I'm not sure of the size either, not sure if it's metric or standard also but I did find out it's a Philips pan head thread forming screw for plastic and found a site that shows some screws which are similar, just need to find out the size.

Check this link for an image, not exact but similar

http://www.beaconfasteners.com/itempix/1408pphz.jpg

Here's a link to a listing of standard Philips pan head thread forming screw for plastic.

http://www.beaconfasteners.com/catalog/catalog.asp?groupid=2&catid=32

They have a lot of screws listed and I didn't check them all out but you may be able to find something useful.

 

[TheDabbinDave]

Just send Thrustmaster support an email. They'll tell you so you can go to any hardware store and get one. I like to bring things to the hardware store when I'm not sure about sizes

 

[mykem]

Hi NeoAgent, thank you so much! It's not clear the real size but considering the width of the screw's hole and considering the picture's I guess I can estimate the w/l ratio.

If you look in the bag of screws and allan keys that comes with the T500RS, there should be one screw than fits into the top screw mount. It may be stick out a bit due to the length being slightly longer but it should work width/diameter-wise.

And them wheels are looking mighty nice- I bet even with the paddle shifter (quite elementary in design but as long as the switches are high quality) it's still on the light side.

 

[JorgeANeto]

Thank you everyone but the NeoAgent's picture did the trick. I printed and went to a store, found a almost identical screw.

I've sent a e-mail for Thurstmaster customer service and they ask me for a scanned copy of the bought invoice before send me the screw specs... LOL!

 

[NeoAgent]

Thank you everyone but the NeoAgent's picture did the trick. I printed and went to a store, found a almost identical screw.

I've sent a e-mail for Thurstmaster customer service and they ask me for a scanned copy of the bought invoice before send me the screw specs... LOL!

JorgeANeto, what size screw did you wind up getting, in case someone else needs to get one.

 

[Jadran]

I've sent a e-mail for Thurstmaster customer service and they ask me for a scanned copy of the bought invoice before send me the screw specs... LOL!

The same thing happened to me

And finally came my turn
After a year and seven months (average of 4-5 hours of driving time daily) yesterday I broke two springs one of the throttle and one of the brakes.
Instantly I contacted Thrustmaster Support and they asked for pictures and bill (perhaps a guarantee), now must wait to see how it would solve the problem once and for how long
Just in case I found a man who is able to make a spring for a few bucks

P.S.
I broke the switch in left shift padle some time ago but still in operation just does not have sound.

It was the day before yesterday

Today

Resolved problem with springs
I exchanged a few email with Thrustmaster Support and in one day resolve the problem 👍
Here is last email from Thrustmaster Support:

"...We would like to inform you that the order was placed to send you new springs under warranty.

Here is the order number: xxxxxxxxxxxx

Thank you for your collaboration.

Feel free to contact us for any other information."

I hope if I still have any problem to be resolved in this way again express
Now it's just a matter of days when the package will arrive at my address

 

[JorgeANeto]

JorgeANeto, what size screw did you wind up getting, in case someone else needs to get one.

Here is the measurements. Unfortunately, it's a out-of-standards screw (for instance, it's not a "M4" or something). I found a similar one, with the same sizes, but the salesman didn't know the "name" of the screw. Anyway...

This sizes will work and fits perfectly to the T500rs hole.

 

[readyfe]

What does the wheel with paddle shift sell for ?

 

[fatkrakr]

What does the wheel with paddle shift sell for ?

I dont think there avaliable yet, but he said on the iracing fourm he is guessing around $515 plus shipping.

 

[Simmpa]

I dont think there avaliable yet, but he said on the iracing fourm he is guessing around $515 plus shipping.

For that price you can get two Fanatec rims. But I guess it is that expensive becuse all the buttons and shifters attached? Just get a momo wheel wich is the same diameter as the stock T500 rim would work just fine I guess. I´m in need for a new wheel and can´t decide if I should get the T500 or CSW, since the powercord of the G25 got lost I have no wheel for my PC. Do anyone here know if there is any drilling template for T500? I want it attached to my Obutto Ozone.

 

[NeoAgent]

Here is the measurements. Unfortunately, it's a out-of-standards screw (for instance, it's not a "M4" or something). I found a similar one, with the same sizes, but the salesman didn't know the "name" of the screw. Anyway...

This sizes will work and fits perfectly to the T500rs hole.

Thanks JorgeANeto

 

[redmalloc]

For that price you can get two Fanatec rims. But I guess it is that expensive becuse all the buttons and shifters attached? Just get a momo wheel wich is the same diameter as the stock T500 rim would work just fine I guess. I´m in need for a new wheel and can´t decide if I should get the T500 or CSW, since the powercord of the G25 got lost I have no wheel for my PC. Do anyone here know if there is any drilling template for T500? I want it attacked to by Obutto Ozone.

As to Sam's wheel, the Momo rim costs ~$200 on its own. So adding in quality hardware, small shop American labor and the unique offering - the price is reasonable in my opinion. The Momo rim is... very nice and almost precisely like the wheel I played with in a race prep'ed Italia 458. Empirically the rim is also more responsive, as tested with wheelcheck. If it is a good deal for anyone in particular, that depends of course

I created a mounting board for my T500 and Ozone so I can quick release the entire wheel - but it will mount fine on it without.

As to T500 vs CSW, well there are a million opinions. I considered the CSW but in the end stuck with my T500 and I am completely happy with it. I use CSPs with the T500 at the moment which is nearly the ideal combo, except for my occasional returns to GT5 (due to swapping pedals). I am looking forward to John Bodin's load cell mod to solve that though.

 

[mykem]

As to Sam's wheel, the Momo rim costs ~$200 on its own. So adding in quality hardware, small shop American labor and the unique offering - the price is reasonable in my opinion. The Momo rim is... very nice and almost precisely like the wheel I played with in a race prep'ed Italia 458. Empirically the rim is also more responsive, as tested with wheelcheck. If it is a good deal for anyone in particular, that depends of course

I created a mounting board for my T500 and Ozone so I can quick release the entire wheel - but it will mount fine on it without.

As to T500 vs CSW, well there are a million opinions. I considered the CSW but in the end stuck with my T500 and I am completely happy with it. I use CSPs with the T500 at the moment which is nearly the ideal combo, except for my occasional returns to GT5 (due to swapping pedals). I am looking forward to John Bodin's load cell mod to solve that though.

I've mentioned it before but there's also the problem of weight from the mostly plastic built CSW rims. Its Formula rim is lighter (at 2.71 Ibs) but heavier than this MOMO/button plate setup and I wouldn't surprise if it remains heavier than this updated wheel/paddle shifter combo (from Sam). The BMW GT2 rim is almost twice the weight of CSW's Formula rim at 4.78 Ibs. I believe Sam's MOMO wheel setup (sans the paddle shifters) weighs less than 2.25 Ibs.

I'm not informed enough to expound the disadvantages of heavier rims but common sense tells me that when you're dealing with smaller and lower torque motors like the ones in the CSW (and CSR-E, which both uses a pair of Mabuchi RS550 motors) is that you want to use lighter rim so that the motors don't have to work too hard. Besides guaranteeing longevity, using lighter rims also allows smaller FF effects to come through more efficiently and let's not forget the speed- the lighter the rim, the easier it is for the motor to move hence improving the FF response.

So it's kind of baffling that Fanatec would design such a heavy rims on a belt drive system that uses two small high rotation but low torque motors. The combination of the rim's weight and the inherent damping (or dampening) from the belt drive would simply kill any low level FF effects.

The irony is that the two people I know who uses Leo Bodnar's high torque servo motor setup (by high torque, I mean 4 to 7 times the torque of wheels like the G25/CSW) use the rims off their G25s. Here's one of them )Niels Heusinkveld) with his setup:

 

[ahartfield]

Thinking about getting a T500RS... Has anybody done any lap comparisons in GT5 as compared to using a standard PS3 controller?

I apologize if this might have been answered already. But, I am a bit curious.

 

[Skuh]

Thinking about getting a T500RS... Has anybody done any lap comparisons in GT5 as compared to using a standard PS3 controller?

I apologize if this might have been answered already. But, I am a bit curious.

There is no comparison between a good wheel and a DS3. They are poles apart.

If you mean is it quicker? Thats a matter of opinion, but the easy/quick answer is YES.

 

[OwensRacing]

Thinking about getting a T500RS... Has anybody done any lap comparisons in GT5 as compared to using a standard PS3 controller?

I apologize if this might have been answered already. But, I am a bit curious.

There is no magic wand with GT5 or any SIM. However with a wheel and practice you can achieve faster times. Any wheel will do this.

Most I've seen use my wheels adapt quickly to the T500 where as the G27 and DFGT they seem to have troubles with keeping straight when car gets loose. T500 let's the real world driver with some skill have a good time right away. So it seems from my experience with my use and others visiting and using.

In the end a wheel is more fun, more involved,ore real, and more faster. it's a situation where if you love racing and gt5 you won't regret a wheel.

 

[redmalloc]

I've mentioned it before but there's also the problem of weight from the mostly plastic built CSW rims. Its Formula rim is lighter (at 2.71 Ibs) but heavier than this MOMO/button plate setup and I wouldn't surprise if it remains heavier than this updated wheel/paddle shifter combo (from Sam). The BMW GT2 rim is almost twice the weight of CSW's Formula rim at 4.78 Ibs. I believe Sam's MOMO wheel setup (sans the paddle shifters) weighs less than 2.25 Ibs.

I'm not informed enough to expound the disadvantages of heavier rims but common sense tells me that when you're dealing with smaller and lower torque motors like the ones in the CSW (and CSR-E, which both uses a pair of Mabuchi RS550 motors) is that you want to use lighter rim so that the motors don't have to work too hard. Besides guaranteeing longevity, using lighter rims also allows smaller FF effects to come through more efficiently and let's not forget the speed- the lighter the rim, the easier it is for the motor to move hence improving the FF response.

So it's kind of baffling that Fanatec would design such a heavy rims on a belt drive system that uses two small high rotation but low torque motors. The combination of the rim's weight and the inherent damping (or dampening) from the belt drive would simply kill any low level FF effects.

I hear you on the CSW rim designs and that was something that put me off a bit. Hearing people say the GT rim was so heavy and effected the feel of FF was disappointing. But in time I guess they will have other rims. Some of the disparaging remarks about the quality of the Alcantara also was not what I was expecting.

Anyway, on Sam's rim, Sam quotes, 0.83kg/1.8lbs and it is very noticeably lighter than the stock GT rim.

I do notice a greater "responsiveness" vs the GT rim. Physics-wise, with lower polar moment of inertia it is easier/quicker for the motor to turn it - but it is also quicker for ME to turn it. Since I am holding/constraining the wheel I am not sure which of those is more significant.

Anyway, here are my measurements.

Yup, faster.

Also a bit more linear although probably irrelevant.

 

[priesty_lfc]

I'm based in the UK, if I look to update my wheel can some advise what I need?


I'm guessing some kind of adapter and obviously a new wheel. Are all wheel a set size (fitting wise) so I could get any wheel as long as it fits the adapter

Thanks