The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

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Not easy, but just precise. You'll need a Phillips head screwdriver, a soldering iron and solder etc.
You need to remove the old board and clean up the cables, then re solder to the new board and refit into the enclosure.
I had an electrician friend of mine do it as I'm not confident with those things, and he didn't say it was a walk in the park either.
Even with the new PCB the wheel is about 5mm off center to the left (feels like its loose on the shaft or belt even after tightening everything with the case open) so I'll be sending it back for a replacement unit.
TM are very trusting of their customers getting them to perform this repair ourselves, and assumed me the warranty will not be void by doing this, so have a go and if it doesn't work out they should replace it for you anyway.

If no one else has put it up by tonight I'll scan the document from TM support and put a link here for you.

Thanks,
BNGTracer.
 
Gas pedal starting to get soft. Makes me wonder if it has two springs and one has broke. :(

This time. I'm looking into my own mod/fix. If it works then I will implement it on the brake and clutch as they wear/break.

Then again. I may try warranty. Dread dealing with those people. They gotten any better?
 
Hey guys im having some trouble with my ffb. Whenever i am on a straight the wheel shakes almost uncontrollably. does anyone have any good driver settings to get rid of this
 
Hi I was wondering if anyone knows how to make a hand brake for the t500.

I already did the solder mod on my G25 and would like to reuse my homemade hand brake (soldered to the O button)
My initial thoughts were to solder/splice into the R3 button but I am not so brave to do it with out any write ups.

I no longer play PC games so I have no use dor button boxes

Unrelated if anyone has the T500 wheel for sale let me know I bought the f1 Integrale T500 and would like to also have the gt wheel
 
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Just use a ds3 controller for input like mine. 👍

Start at 3:51.


edit: Thrustmaster sells the GT rims separate.
 
Available: new driver (2012_TTRS_3) and new firmware (V40) for Thrustmaster T500 RS (compatible with both GT and F1 wheel)!

Changes made in new driver version (only on PC):
- Solved a problem that appeared when users attempted to save force effects in the Control Panel

Changes made in new firmware version (on PC & PS3):
- The self-calibration process has been optimized
- Latency has been optimized and raised to 500 Hz (instead of 125 Hz) of the frame rate

260015_502292586465148_2087032498_n.jpg


http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=1&fid=2&pid=316&cid=15
 
Gas pedal starting to get soft. Makes me wonder if it has two springs and one has broke. :(

This time. I'm looking into my own mod/fix. If it works then I will implement it on the brake and clutch as they wear/break.

I have been using a set of CSP with my T500 but with John Bodins load cell mod and These I would be thinking of going back to the T500 pedals.

From what I've read about the broken springs is that Thrustmaster sends out a couple extra springs even after the warranty expires.


Available: new driver (2012_TTRS_3) and new firmware (V40) for Thrustmaster T500 RS (compatible with both GT and F1 wheel)!

Thank you for posting this. </thumbsup>
 
Does anyone know the screw size for the pedal plate? I stripe the screw now need the replacement. please provide me the length and size of the screw. or any other alternative than original screw that I can use to fasten the pedal plate?
Many thanks in advance!!
 
Was it easy to change? What tools would I need?

Here is a link to the PCB replacement manual as supplied by Thrustmaster, sorry it isn't scanned but after the scanner sitting in the cupboard for so long it didn't work anymore :ouch: (me thinks a little 'gremlin' may have been playing in said cupboard recently :grumpy: )

I took a photo of each page and rather than fill this post with 6 large images decided to just put the link to the album.

T500RS PCB Replacement procedure

Thanks,
BNGTracer.
 
My gas pedal keeps spiking while running iRacing. The green indicator will not stay maxed out. It kind of sputters at different times. Recalibration does not correct it because it does it during the calibration. So I'm thinking it's a T500 problem. Has anyone experienced this and offer any solution? Thanks, Vince

*edit* fixed it. French made cheap pos.
 
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My gas pedal keeps spiking while running iRacing. The green indicator will not stay maxed out. It kind of sputters at different times. Recalibration does not correct it because it does it during the calibration. So I'm thinking it's a T500 problem. Has anyone experienced this and offer any solution? Thanks, Vince

*edit* fixed it. French made cheap pos.

It's actually made in China :) I don't know if it's even French designed although TM is a french company (Guillemot Corporation).

While I wouldn't say T500RS uses premium parts, it's no different than Fanatec or Logitech. I mentioned it before the fact that retail cost of the single motor in the T500RS (by Buehler, a German company with manufacturing facility in China) is about 20% of the retail value of the wheel setup. Which might account for the reason why load-cell was not an option if the T500RS is to be sold around the $600. The other option was to sell the pedal separately but that's a different market entirely.
 
My gas pedal keeps spiking while running iRacing. The green indicator will not stay maxed out. It kind of sputters at different times. Recalibration does not correct it because it does it during the calibration. So I'm thinking it's a T500 problem. Has anyone experienced this and offer any solution? Thanks, Vince

*edit* fixed it. French made cheap pos.

How did you fix it Vince ? Just wondering because I had the same problem and my "fix" only lasts 1 - 2 months before I need to do it again.
 
I took the gear from the pot arm off and set it a 1/2 turn forward. Put the gear back on and reset the drivers. Works like a champ now.
 
I took the gear from the pot arm off and set it a 1/2 turn forward. Put the gear back on and reset the drivers. Works like a champ now.

Ah ! Good thinking. I will make a note of that for future breakdowns :)

I took the gear off and turned the pot around one tooth which helped but wasn't a permanent fix. Whenever I get the spiking input now , I tighten the nut just behind the gear. It is never "loose" but it can be snugged up 1/8 of a turn. Seems to help anyway. Another thing this helps is to stop the brake lights flashing when I rest my foot on the brake pedal. It gets very sensitive when the nut is "loose" , to the point where there is no actual brake input but the brake lights are right at the point of being activated on the car. Annoying for people behind me , I'm sure.
 
mcfizzle
Thanks for uploading the photos BNGTracer.👍

No worries. Hope they prove usefull.

On a side note, I had continuing issues after I replaced the PCB and was about to return it for repair when I noticed the new driver and firmware update, I updated the driver/firmware with the latest v.40 and the wheel is like a brand new one. Everything works fine and it feels tighter in GT5, more responsive.
 
Hey racers allaround,

I finally got my "service" for the Thrustmaster T500 Ferrari Addon wheel running!

I was bored about those fake knobs, cheap pushbuttons and most of all the missing Display to show various Data.

So i went for it and try to make a affordable modification to it. Some time went past for the Display and the Custom Shields for it, also my Job takes too much time but finally its done and i can announce my mod to anyone who like it.;)



http://f1wheelmod.webs.com/



Possible Mods:

- Simdisplay + Installation, curled usb cable and custom shield ( choose from 3 different )

- Rotary switch Installation with Scale in custom colour

- Pusbutton "replacement" instal with NKK switches, Guard and custom colour Button together with 2 carbon shields to fit

- Shields can also be sold seperately

- SLI-M and SLI-PRO Mod soon!











Greets Modmate
 
Does anyone know the screw size for the pedal plate? I stripe the screw now need the replacement. please provide me the length and size of the screw. or any other alternative than original screw that I can use to fasten the pedal plate?
Many thanks in advance!!

Just saw your post.

The screw size to attach the pedal plate to the pedal is M4 -.07, the length is either 25mm or 30mm not sure but either should work. I'd go for the 30mm to be sure (I think it's actually something like 27mm), if it sticks out a little on the back side should be no problem plus you can always cut it if necessary. You will need a flat head screw.
 
I updated the driver/firmware with the latest v.40 and the wheel is like a brand new one. Everything works fine and it feels tighter in GT5, more responsive.

I didn't put any reference around it so you may have missed this line in my previous post.

I am not sure if it's just me wanting it to feel better, but it no longer has a 4 degree left bias for dead straight, and the FFB feels much smoother in its delivery. It had a much more noticeable change (for the better) over the v.38 update.
 
I didn't put any reference around it so you may have missed this line in my previous post.

I am not sure if it's just me wanting it to feel better, but it no longer has a 4 degree left bias for dead straight, and the FFB feels much smoother in its delivery. It had a much more noticeable change (for the better) over the v.38 update.

Yup! Agreed. The wheel is now correctly calibrate! Finally, after 3 months of suffering.

My advice? I prefer to uninstall the 3.8 and new install the 4.0 instead of doing an update :)
 
I have been using a set of CSP with my T500 but with John Bodins load cell mod and These I would be thinking of going back to the T500 pedals.

From what I've read about the broken springs is that Thrustmaster sends out a couple extra springs even after the warranty expires.




Thank you for posting this. </thumbsup>

Left, are you using the Bodin Load Cell? How do you like it? I've been eye balling that for a long time. Thanks!
 
Left, are you using the Bodin Load Cell? How do you like it? I've been eye balling that for a long time. Thanks!

Not available for regular folks yet. John's last update was 9/19 and he said he still had work left to do but "very close now"

I am definitely planning on ordering.
 
Just saw your post.

The screw size to attach the pedal plate to the pedal is M4 -.07, the length is either 25mm or 30mm not sure but either should work. I'd go for the 30mm to be sure (I think it's actually something like 27mm), if it sticks out a little on the back side should be no problem plus you can always cut it if necessary. You will need a flat head screw.

Thank you a bunch, that solved my problem! I'm thinking to fit the after market pedal, any suggestion? I saw Sparco pedal was plug n play, is there anyother option i can go for?
 
Hello,

i received my Thrustmaster T500 RS with Ferrari F1 Wheel yesterday. Is it normal that the fan takes very long to stop running? I played for 15 minutes, then the fan starts working, then got back to desktop waiting for 10 minutes and the fan was still working.

Also after doing a firmware-update the fan started to kick in, even if i wasn't playing before. Is this normal?
 

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