The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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ITpaket.se some swedish store. Okay so there is somewhere to adjust the ffb strength in GT5 even if you don´t have a G27 or Fanatec wheel? I haven´t touched GT5 for years or something it took forever to get that C7 prototype installed lol.

Damper settings is there to simulate extra weight. Like going through mud and stuff like that. I hardly ever feel it´s necessary and just make it harder to steer since the FFB gives you this generally anyway.
 
You realise the T500 is the official GT5 wheel right? It has been very well optimised. I imagine you haven't updated your game recently, although I'm amazed it works at all if that's case.

I guess the damping you're feeling is because it has defaulted to a 200 degree lock, when actually GT5 supports the full 1080 once it is updated.
 
Isn´t DFP GT the official GT 5 wheel?

I was greeted with a whopping 483 mb update. It sure works I just want a bit less resistance. Will make another go tomorrow see if I can find those ffb settings.
I noticed there was two T500 RS control mapping panels?
 
Ahhh, yes, the motor...

It actually has ball bearings, among other things.

This isn't news though I suppose, I'm sure it was talked about already in this very thread.

What I would love to see is an iFixit.com type teardown of the $500 to $800 sim wheels on the market the same fashion they tear down major brand electronics devices to the core when they are released and access what it actually cost to build the thing, and assign a repairability score.
 
Isn´t DFP GT the official GT 5 wheel?

I was greeted with a whopping 483 mb update. It sure works I just want a bit less resistance. Will make another go tomorrow see if I can find those ffb settings.
I noticed there was two T500 RS control mapping panels?

DFP is the official GT4 wheel
DFGT -> GT5 Prologue
T500 -> GT5
 
Isn´t DFP GT the official GT 5 wheel?

I was greeted with a whopping 483 mb update. It sure works I just want a bit less resistance. Will make another go tomorrow see if I can find those ffb settings.
I noticed there was two T500 RS control mapping panels?
If the mapping options are there then you already have the relevant update, although I think GT5 has seen more than one update for this wheel. The only options you can adjust that affect FFB are in the steering settings. Should be on 'simulation', power steering 'off' and strength at 5 or less. Any higher than 5 feels wrong to me.
 
Isn´t DFP GT the official GT 5 wheel?

I was greeted with a whopping 483 mb update. It sure works I just want a bit less resistance. Will make another go tomorrow see if I can find those ffb settings.
I noticed there was two T500 RS control mapping panels?

You're probably talking about controller 1 and 2 in the options menu. Also if you decide to change the degree rotation on PS3, you can do so by using the guide below. Just make sure you updated the wheel's firmware on the PC:

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T500RS/T500RS_PS3_Rotation_Angle.pdf
 
Thanks. I have v40 firmware on it. I guess there is no hack to get the TH8 RS shifter working on the PS3 as well?

It should be plug-n-play just like it is on PC. Recently, Polyphony Digital pushed an update to also allow sequential mode on the TH8rs. From what I know, you can't map the buttons though. It would be sweet to use it as handbrake.
 
Yes I got a heureka moment just after I posted that it was actually supposed to be PS3 compatible. So plugged in and it works fine :). Great to see there is now options to change steering lock also for consoles. They should have some silly 180 degrees also or even less for some arcade titles to more effectively mimic gamepad. I remember Sega Rally Revo for example more or less demanded such settings. Outrun and such titles also demand very direct steering but are still more fun with a wheel.
 
Installed the brake mod now. Long throw and you make use of about 70 % of the pot range it appears. Quite noisy hope it will get better with some run in of the spring :)
 
I'm having a problem that I think is related to my T500 wheel. Posting here in case anyone else has experienced this also , or if any of you guys have any thoughts on a solution ?

So , the other day in iracing , my wheel stops reponding whilst Im driving.Car spears straight ahead off track into a wall. I have the triangle button configured to call for a tow , but it doesn't do anything. Also the wheel is moving about 30 degrees left and right of centre in a rhythmic , rocking motion. I have to use the Esc key to leave track and then Ctrl Alt Del to leave the session and return to the browser.

I had noticed my brake pedal had changed in its feeling so I pulled the pedals out of the rig. I found both torsion springs were broken on the brake and also the throttle one so I replaced them all and reinstalled the pedals. At this point I couldn't see how this would have caused the problem in iracing but I had to start somewhere and the springs were kaput anyway :)

Two days later , and a few hours use and all is well.....until tonight. I was in Pcars and the game "froze" mid race. The image on screen froze as well as the audio and all inputs from wheel were unresponsive. I had to Ctrl Alt Delete out of the sim again. The one thing in common with the crash in iracing is the gentle left to right rhythmic rocking of the wheel straight after the sim locked up. I also noticed that the red mode light on the wheel was out.

I checked all cable connections , the blue light was on at the transformer so all looked okay but the wheel wasn't detected by windows. I restarted the PC and the wheel calibrated itself.... all is normal again but I'm sure I still have a problem that will arise again.

I am running the latest Firmware. The wheel is a V2 and is about 18 months old. I haven't contacted Thrustmaster yet , that will be the next step. I'm just wondering if anyone has any thoughts or ideas on where the problem lies here ?

Thanks :)

Anyone ?

Im thinking its a bad / intermittent connection issue. I pulled the bottom cover off and didn't see any obvious problems with wiring or solder joints. The wheel is out of warranty , the cost of shipping to Thrustmaster from Australia would be astronomical so thats not an option.

I have bought a G27 to keep me racing until I get the T500 fixed , but its a huge step backwards and will take a while to get used to.

:(
 
Anyone ?

Im thinking its a bad / intermittent connection issue. I pulled the bottom cover off and didn't see any obvious problems with wiring or solder joints. The wheel is out of warranty , the cost of shipping to Thrustmaster from Australia would be astronomical so thats not an option.

I have bought a G27 to keep me racing until I get the T500 fixed , but its a huge step backwards and will take a while to get used to.

:(

Are you sure your warranty is expired? I read my manual and it says it's a two year warranty period. Also, Thrustmaster should reimburse the shipping cost if I'm not mistaken. I would talk to tech support if you haven't already. I'm sure they can work something out.
 
Did my first testrun with the brake mod in FVA. After a while I notice I am not getting full brake anymore no matter how hard I push on the pedal. Wonder if I haven´t somehow installed the mod wrong? In stock it´s arranged as long throw right so you should only have to install the mod on the pins toward the back of the pedal? On PC I believe I may be able to fix this with diview for all my PC racing but that don´t work on the PS3.

edit: It´s only the 150 italia so maybe it´s okay. Strange though that they have different length on the brake and throttle metres. If I choose theo 458 or 100 I do get full and diview also don´t suggest any problems.
 
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With brake mod installed, you need to re-calibrate the pedals because the brake has less travel than without the mod. This is valid for PC and PS3.
 
qt
Are you sure your warranty is expired? I read my manual and it says it's a two year warranty period. Also, Thrustmaster should reimburse the shipping cost if I'm not mistaken. I would talk to tech support if you haven't already. I'm sure they can work something out.

You are right , it is 2 years. Not sure how I would fare though as the casing has been opened without TMs authorisation when I replaced the fan.

Anyway , I may have found the problem. More testing later today will confirm this. Will post up the results.

Thanks for the reply :)
 
The cause of the problem turned out to be the plug at the power supply unit on the mains lead. It was still in place but had been pulled sideways slightly and every now and then would break contact cutting the power briefly.

This caused the sims to freeze and the wheel to do its oscilating thing when the power returned.

So relieved that's all it was and that I have my wheel back ! Sometimes its the simplest little things........[/facepalm]
 
A bit curious what experiences people have with addon wheels? What diameter do you find is suitable for this wheel and it´s force feedback capabilities? I am thinking about 320 mm perhaps for vintage GT/formula or standard cars and perhaps some camaro drifting. Would be a plus I suppose if you could reach the paddles with relative ease I like to use them for looking left/right if nothing else.

Must say I really like the wheel. The pedals is a bit better then expected from opinions and reviews. I would surely want to see some better pots. I want to remember having more precision during dry simming. But that is a very different thing to actually being on the track :) But they feel great. Feels more realistic then the clubsports or even Frex based on the pedals I have operated. Only CST pedals beat them. Quite handily so but not really a straight comparison. In hanging position it was a bit keen to tipping over in a flat position. Now lets just hope I am fast with them lol. I am quite confident I will find them preferrable to my G27 nixim modded pedals which is what I currently own. If not hopefully the upcoming load cell mod will perform unless I find real issues with the throttle.

I suspect I will find that the CSP do give better precision particular for the braking due to the loadcell. But it was not as pleasant to operate. Thrustmaster seem very good with tactile feedback. The buttons on the wheel is for once fun to just play with. To bad about the lacking rocker switches why not having ones that don´t do anything. I can´t really imagine what real world usage I would get out of them.

Paddle shifters I rarely find fun to use but I love the pointer finger paddles on the f1 wheel. Only reservation I have is the noise during clicking. Don´t distract me as much as potentially others I would like my wheel to be as stealthy as possible.

T500RS don´t quite deliver here. But aside from the clicking it´s mainly just the fan and my ears are well trained from all my PC usage to ignore fan noise. It´s far less distracting then gear driven wheels that often sound like they are falling apart and being very loud doing so.

Pedals seem to have gotten better in hanging position for some reason. Or the brake mod just needed some breakin. It´s far less distracting then gear driven wheels that often sound like they are falling apart.

As for the F1 paddle shifters I would have preferred if they where separat but that is hardly any biggie. Hard to find faults with this wheel. I guess I can drink water while I drive now and still switch gear whenever I need to :) I haven´t even touched the static ones to be honest but I like them for looking left/right and wipers and handbrake and what not. I doubt I will be very impressed with them when I get my road car wheel but that is what the TH8RS are for.

The rubber grip feels very expensive for being rubber. Very secure grip which surely is needed sometimes with this torque and induce no hand sweat. Not to mention the wheel itself. When I get it hard mounted I am sure I will not be able to feel any flex anywhere. Just afraid it will make my monitor dance off :) I wished Thrustmaster would have supplied a drilling guide and perhaps even bolts to secure it with though.

And as mentioned the pedals feels great. Surely not CST pedal great but far nicer to operate then the Frex pedals for example or the Clubsports or G27s. As it look now I appear to get the best results in a hanging position. The paddles where not quite as angled as I wanted though but can easilly compensate for that on my nixim racecraft.
I am not sure I will be able to handle the brake pressure though. Running brake mod in long throw position requires real effort for 100 % braking.

It take quite a bit of time to get used to new pedals. Hopefully I will be able to replace the rubber for a load cell sometime in the feature. Curious what that brings. However
 
I am really really not looking for a stiffer brake. 16 kg pressure is enough for me have to use real force to get to real braking and it´s hard to stay there for long when actually racing. Maybe to much. Removing the spring on the brake mod does it do anything to lower the max resistance?

Thinking to go with the stock T500RS wheel. Is it a lot heavier then those 320 mm racing inspired wheels from omp, rmds and the likes? Does it use the same rubber as on the F1 wheel?
 
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More than 72 hours since I tried to register on Thrustmaster's website (twice, with 2 separate emails) have passed, and more than 24 hours since I sent them an email saying why the hell haven't you sent me my login information. No replies.

Great customer service this.
 
TM Was very fast answering my questions about the T500RS removable kit. However I went with one of these wheels instead http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=82_1887_1888_1891&products_id=13903. Hopefully it will be better in term of feel and comfort then the stock T500RS wheel.

I don´t enjoy GT 5 a lot still despite T500RS performing so much better then previous wheels in this game so figured I can live with the F1 integral for my very limited console racing. Maybe I can use the gamepad to navigate together with the wheel in GT5 I haven´t tried that yet :)
 
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Well isn't that amazing. As soon as I get a reply from customer service telling me something I already know, the bit on their site to reset your password which wasn't sending me the login information (which was linked in to the reply of the reply), suddenly works. It's as if I needed to register my email address to work by getting them to send me an email from customer service. :D
 
If anyone is interested. I found out something interesting today...

The "ITEM" number is different between the EU and US versions of the wheel, but this isn't all that interesting and probably obvious. However, within the different versions of the wheel, this number does not change.

There is a number that does change on the outer cardboard box and it is specific to the versions of the wheels. It is the same for EU and US within the same version number. It is on the outside of the box as PO/NO: (number) They are as follows:

V.2 - 16100
V.3 - 16442
V.4 - 16551
V.5 - 16795

This may or may not be useful to someone... I figured I would post it in the event that it is.
 
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