The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread
- Thread starter TomN
- 9,924 comments
- 2,165,884 views
- 404
- Indianapolis, I
It was me -- same switches for both the F1 rim and the standard paddles, I believe, and the same circuit board, too, just different wire lengths.
Still working on verifying exactly WHAT switch will work (size and form factor, PLUS a long life-cycle / high repitition switch), and once I nail that down, I'll look into producing PCBs that will be like-for-like replacements for the Thrustmaster assemblies, complete with wires and connectors.
So, lots of work to do still on my part. Once I identify a proper switch, I'll make the part number info available for the DIY soldering types.
- 404
- Indianapolis, I
Carrying this topic forward -- I think the switches I identified will NOT work with the Thrustmaster PCBs because they are surface-mount switches, while the switches used on the Thrustmaster boards use through-hole type solder connections, not surface mount (smt) switches.
Still, I know a long-life replacement exists . . . I just need to search more.
I understand the search for a long life replacement, but are you sure Thrustmaster wouldn't supply these as spare parts? They seem to be happy to send out replacement fans and other components that require opening the wheel?
I wonder if that switch is the same through all 5 versions of the wheel
I wonder if that switch is the same through all 5 versions of the wheel
- 404
- Indianapolis, I
This is why Logiforce and I suggested that Madbeater contact Thrustmaster tech support about replacement parts -- but the problem/fear is that Thrustmaster may not provide out-of-warranty replacement parts forever, so it would be nice to have SOME alternative option.
Very good question about all 5 versions of the wheel. I have a V1 wheel, so it would be interesting to compare parts from my wheel to someone's V5 parts sometime.
- 3,475
- Vilnius
I believe those are 12mm? You can easily find such switches in any electronics shop.
- 404
- Indianapolis, I
Sure, if you want the crappy, 100,000 cycle versions that Thrustmaster seems to use as their default part. If you want a more durable version with a higher life cycle (like one that's rated at 1,000,000 cycles, for example), you have to comb through the specs and find the right switch at a reasonable price.
If you find a suitable part before I do, though, feel free to share with us all!
- 3,475
- Vilnius
Well this is the first thing that pops up on google. Rated at 10 million cycles. Though they look expensive http://www.mec.dk/Multimec-5-series-v12-p-71.html#1
- 404
- Indianapolis, I
Actually, the B3W-4050 is the one I've been looking at as the closest like-for-like high-operation switch that I've found so far (the 4055 has a grounding tab, which isn't required/used by the stock Thrustmaster part).
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/307/en-b3w-3995.pdf
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
The 4100 series has the grounding tab, the 4000 has none. The difference between the 4055 and 4050 is the color and actuation force. But... 4050 is the 3 mill. version with weaker actuation force so it's probably a better bet 
I can't really imagine in my head what the difference would feel like in force necessary though... :/
I can't really imagine in my head what the difference would feel like in force necessary though... :/
- 404
- Indianapolis, I
I'm in the process of laying out a board now, and I plan on ordering a few of these when I place my next order with Mouser. I want to verify that they're directly compatible with the Thrustmaster circuit boards for people who want to go the DIY route, but I also want to be able to produce direct replacements for people who don't want to mess with soldering and such.
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
I'm in the process of laying out a board now, and I plan on ordering a few of these when I place my next order with Mouser. I want to verify that they're directly compatible with the Thrustmaster circuit boards for people who want to go the DIY route, but I also want to be able to produce direct replacements for people who don't want to mess with soldering and such.
That sounds like an excellent idea and certainly within your capabilities.
You should also be able to buy those wire assemblies cheap as heck, ready made. It looks like a standard JST connector, possibly molex I suppose. It's got the JST look though. JST XH to be a little more specific...
If you are going to make your own... Your options are wide open for the switch
Keep us posted
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
This might be the ticket... http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1164 Pretty dang cheap for an assembled cable.
Maybe not. It's hard to see that connector well, I can't tell the orientation. Anyhow, I'm sure you have it covered lol
Maybe not. It's hard to see that connector well, I can't tell the orientation. Anyhow, I'm sure you have it covered lol
I couldn't resist the temptation to invert the pedals in the alternative orientation so that they come out of the back rather than bottom of the pedal unit.
All I can say is fantastic! I find I am able to get much finer control over the pedals and it somehow feels much more convincing.
I wanted to get one of those wheel stands like the Omega GT wheel stand (as it has a separate arm for the gear stick), but I believe it only has suitable fixings for the pedals in the floor orientation rather than rear one which is a shame. In fact I cannot see an obvious way to bolt the pedals to anything when its oriented like this.
All I can say is fantastic! I find I am able to get much finer control over the pedals and it somehow feels much more convincing.
I wanted to get one of those wheel stands like the Omega GT wheel stand (as it has a separate arm for the gear stick), but I believe it only has suitable fixings for the pedals in the floor orientation rather than rear one which is a shame. In fact I cannot see an obvious way to bolt the pedals to anything when its oriented like this.
- 73
- warwickshire
Nice easy mod for a better gas pedal using compression springs, adds about 3lb more resistence compared to stock wich is around 3lb.
I used abt of pipe insulation like this http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p64166?gclid=COOhlPmv-LUCFc3HtAod_mkA2A and its much better
Have tried a few different sized bits, 'm on my smallest now, i had a good bit in there, was very hard to twist it in the spring and this is the one that was around 6lb or resistence, i'd think the little bit have in the pic wont do hardly anything as i can still sqash the spring between thumb and index finger.
I'll probly settle with a good squashing as it felt nice.
I used abt of pipe insulation like this http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p64166?gclid=COOhlPmv-LUCFc3HtAod_mkA2A and its much better
Have tried a few different sized bits, 'm on my smallest now, i had a good bit in there, was very hard to twist it in the spring and this is the one that was around 6lb or resistence, i'd think the little bit have in the pic wont do hardly anything as i can still sqash the spring between thumb and index finger.
I'll probly settle with a good squashing as it felt nice.
- 577
- NC
Nice easy mod for a better gas pedal using compression springs, adds about 3lb more resistence compared to stock wich is around 3lb.
I used abt of pipe insulation like this http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p64166?gclid=COOhlPmv-LUCFc3HtAod_mkA2A and its much better
Have tried a few different sized bits, 'm on my smallest now, i had a good bit in there, was very hard to twist it in the spring and this is the one that was around 6lb or resistence, i'd think the little bit have in the pic wont do hardly anything as i can still sqash the spring between thumb and index finger.
I'll probly settle with a good squashing as it felt nice.
FWIW as a reference point my modded CSPV2's fish scale at about 5.4 pounds. That is using two springs (a Hillman from Lowes wound into the stocker) and the trunnion in the stock hole but with the pushrod set to cut travel from the stock 2 ¾ inches down to just over 2 inches. With the stock travel the force would wind up about a pound heavier than the 5.4 I'm at now. That is because the pedal would further compress the spring.
So it looks like we wound up liking around the same amount of force. What travel distance are you seeing?
- 73
- warwickshire
The travel is same as stock.
I tried a small bit of insulation, was pffft so gone back to a good decent sized bit.
I think around 6lb seems just right for my style, its not too hard that its hard and its not too weak, it seems just about right to rest a foot on while cornering.
Clutch at 75% travel
Gas at 75%
This
Gives me this
As the inslation is compacting within the spring the more travel that is applied the more resistence is generated, perfect for resting foot in a zone that does'nt wheelspin when coming out of corners
There's enough room inside the spring for a good sized bit of insulation that will give around 6-7lb at 75% travel, full travel of gas pedal is same as stock.
Brake at 75% is around 15lb+
Still waiting on my second class postage non digi fishscale from fleabay, seems along time ago i ordered it now
I tried a small bit of insulation, was pffft so gone back to a good decent sized bit.
I think around 6lb seems just right for my style, its not too hard that its hard and its not too weak, it seems just about right to rest a foot on while cornering.
Clutch at 75% travel
Gas at 75%
This
Gives me this
As the inslation is compacting within the spring the more travel that is applied the more resistence is generated, perfect for resting foot in a zone that does'nt wheelspin when coming out of corners
There's enough room inside the spring for a good sized bit of insulation that will give around 6-7lb at 75% travel, full travel of gas pedal is same as stock.
Brake at 75% is around 15lb+
Still waiting on my second class postage non digi fishscale from fleabay, seems along time ago i ordered it now
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Hey guys, I noticed last night that the right side paddle on my T500 would not shift sometimes. I have since switched to my THR8S for shifting, which I like better anyway, but I am just curious what you guys think could be causing this and whether I can easily do a fix myself.
Thanks,
Craig
Thanks,
Craig
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
Craig,
Start reading here: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8189156#post8189156
John Bodin is working up a solution. However, you can try what he said in the meantime. Getting at the switches is pretty easy.
- 577
- NC
Brake at 75% is around 15lb+
Still waiting on my second class postage non digi fishscale from fleabay, seems along time ago i ordered it now
My CSP V2s don't adjust that low in braking force! Check out my Zero Rebound / Quick Release brake damping too on my viddie in the Fana-Mod thread. Feels wonderful.
Looking forward to your T500rs wheel testing when the bits show up.
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- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
If that isn't enough for you, you should try my brake mod, or just go grab some bushings from a skate shop
- 1,086
- St-Hyacinthe, QC
- GTP_pilmat
- pilmat
Craig,
Start reading here: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8189156#post8189156
John Bodin is working up a solution. However, you can try what he said in the meantime. Getting at the switches is pretty easy.
Sweet
Without having taken apart the T500 (don't tempt me!), would a small piece of lexan (0.010" thick) on the foam help? I race slot cars too, we call the stuff "body bullet proof". Basically thin plastic with self adhesive. I use this stuff everywhere as stick-on shim stock (like on the paddles of my home rig's extensions).
Here is what the stuff looks like stuck to the outside of a slot car body (front with the pin through it):
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