The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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Has anyone had their wheel trimmed with leather or Alacantara? The rubber on my wheel is looking in a sorry state just after 6 months and I was wondering whether that would come under general wear and tear if I asked Thrustmaster for another one.

If it is wear and tear if you have had it re-trimmed, how did you do it?

Thanks

You must use it quite a bit, I am going on 6 months here with no visible wear.
I use mine around 6 hours a week.
Check these guys out:
Craft Customs re-did a stitched-rim for my car a few years ago.
You can call or email them for a quote.

EDIT: Just saw that you are located in UK, so the above info may not be useful to you.
 
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I have started, but the tape is too sticky. I need to get the cheaper stuff so that it comes away freely when sliced.

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Pretty easy to install -- I recommend powering-off your T500 wheel and removing the actual wheel (which takes maybe 3 minutes), as shown in the first half of this video:

Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7cKX6F1ah0

Then, using the enclosed hex key, remove the 6 hex-head bolts around the "GT" center -- once the bolts are removed, you can easily lift the collar that holds the 6 bolts and remove the GT center. Place the new BWC-T500 center in place along with the collar that holds the bolts, then re-install the bolts. Note that there are 3 long bolts, and 3 short bolts.

The 3 long bolts install at the 3 o'clock, 11 o'clock, and 1 o'clock positions (these hold the wheel to the screw-on "quick disconnect" on the rear of the wheel, so you MUST put the long bolts back in the correct positions). Then install the 3 short bolts in the 12 o'clock, 5 o'clock, and 7 o'clock positions. Just insert the bolts and start them initially -- don't tighten any of them down fully until all 6 of the bolts are stated. This will ensure proper alignment of the collar, and it will also help prevent any of the bolts from binding.

Once the new wheel center is in place and all 6 bolts are properly installed and tightened, re-attach your GT wheel to the T500 base as shown in the second half of the video link above.

Now go racing and enjoy your new bling!

:cool:



I took the attached pictures for the Website -- I still need to complete the installation instructions to be included with the wheel centers, but that should be done in the next day or so. Once I get that done, I will update the Bodin Solutions Website, so keep your eyes peeled. Most likely, you'll be able to place an order by Wednesday of this week.

:)

It's Friday :)
still waiting anxiously :)
 
nm I am an idiot. Troubleshooted the wheel for hours just to see that the driver settings put my periodic forces to 0 in the T500RS settings...
 
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When some of the special reduced price offers started appearing for the T500 RS I think some of us assumed maybe it was end-of-line or that maybe a replacement was coming.

It is nice to see that Thrustmaster have firmly shown commitment to the future of this wheel with the new Ferrari GTE rim and their own official brake load cell brake add-on.

It also helps that Grid 2 on the PS3 fully supports this wheel with gear shifter, not to mention future support with GT6.
 
Where did you preorder it (can help other racers)?

The information is available on Thrustmater's site.

Go to Thrustmaster's Where To Buy web page and then use the filters to select the 458 wheel add-on.

After you do that, the web page will repopulate with the links to the vendors web page's that currently have the 458 wheel add-on for sale (but still not in stock).
 
Just got an email from Rseat that my Ferarri GT-Wheel is on it's way.:)

Also, had the chance to lay my hands on a fanatec clubsport, I liked it, but I am happy with the T500Rs, and most likeley will end up buying a reserve (as they now are only 350 euro).

I've been readin a lot here about the Sam maxwell wheels, is there a site where I can order them ?
 
Frank, I'll wait for your review of the GTE - if you'll make any, and then I might consider buying it :sly:.
 
Here's my latest purchase from Sam Maxwell -- this button plate will be available in single-row versions (which is what I chose), double-rows, or single-double rows of buttons.

WheelPlate2_zpsa1de276e.jpg


WheelPlate3_zpsdf22f670.jpg


WheelPlate1_zpse37d4cc5.jpg


WheelPlateDoubleSingle_zps04977009.jpg
 
Frank, I'll wait for your review of the GTE - if you'll make any, and then I might consider buying it :sly:.

I will review it, take some pictures and post it here ;)

@ John, looks very nice, If I am not mistaken this is mainly used for PC set up ?

Thanks for your PM 👍
 
I will review it, take some pictures and post it here ;)

@ John, looks very nice, If I am not mistaken this is mainly used for PC set up ?

Thanks for your PM 👍

Yes, that is the unfortunate downside -- this will be a USB button box-type mod (similar to Derek Speare's button boxes . . . I will be using one of Derek's boards on my unit, in fact).
 
Yes, that is the unfortunate downside -- this will be a USB button box-type mod (similar to Derek Speare's button boxes . . . I will be using one of Derek's boards on my unit, in fact).

It looks nice, but as I will be sticking to console racing, quite useless for me. The reason I am sticking to console race games : other wise the options are to broad and knowing myself this hobby would get even more expensive :)
 
It looks nice, but as I will be sticking to console racing, quite useless for me. The reason I am sticking to console race games : other wise the options are to broad and knowing myself this hobby would get even more expensive :)

Since Sam is selling these as "DIY" units, he recommends using a Derek Speare USB board -- as a "DIY" project, I think it would be easy to cannibalize a PS3 controller and wire that up to the switches to allow for PS3 compatibility. Then the switches would look like another PS3 controller.

Not 100% sure if this would work, since I'm not a PS3 owner, but it sounds do-able.
 
Here's my latest purchase from Sam Maxwell -- this button plate will be available in single-row versions (which is what I chose), double-rows, or single-double rows of buttons.

Looks nice!
Is the back end open behind the switches?
Or are the business-end of the switches and wiring enclosed?
 
This is a very random request/question , but can anyone tell me what size nail is the nail that goes throughthe ddiamond plate on the pedal set on the t500??
I forgot to check it before I left my house, and if anyone could tellme the size iI'l run to lLowes afterward and pick up some.
Thanks in advance!
 
Likely a M3x0.5 Though, I can't be SURE on that. But, I'm pretty sure. :)

That is the correct size. I know because I bought longer replacements for mine when I installed rubber isolators between the diamond plate and pedal frame.

To be specific:

The thread size is M3x0.5, the head's hex key size is M2.
The bundled Thrustmaster flat head socket cap screws are about 15mm long.

Thrustmaster supplies wing nuts to use with them.
The wing nuts are convenient for use on the 2 front screws...
...but they are a complete pain in the a$$ to use on the two rear screws in the GT position.

The reason for this is that the two rear screws protrude between a pair of screws on the underside.
This makes using a regular nut difficult because of clearance issues.

...so go with about 20mm long screws in the back with wing nuts if you do GT position.
That will make threading them on easier. Don't go longer than 20mm.
 
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