- 1,492
- Tucson,AZ,USA
- Windy_1238
Thanks John!!
You will need a set of snap ring pliers to remove the snap rings then slip out the rod. Replace rod and snap rings.
Here is a pic of them:
This is my pedal set up:
Yep, i took mine off, there's a allen key bolt either side of the flat metal arms that attach it to the base, remove them, as for the bar that runs through the pedal base there's a circlip either end that you need to remove then you can slide the rode through out of either end doesn't matter which, but just take note there is a cable attached in each segment via a tie strip, cut the tie strips first so the rod can slide out, and thats it, i just stuck the cables to the base with tape afterwards.
Looks like you have plenty of room for a BLC-T500 Load Cell Mod there . . .
Now that's a massive break pedal ! Is it custom made?
"It's too small" in...
3...
2..
1.
"It's too small" in...
3...
2..
1.
At 28cm, it's slightly larger than my Momo Mod 27d Sam Maxwell wheel, which is 27cm. I think my Mod 27d is the perfect size for open wheeler, sports, and GT-type cars. I don't do ovals, so I might find it a bit small-ish, but so far I'm loving my Mod 27d, and I think it's a much better wheel in terms of size and ergonomics than the stock GT wheel (and the buttons/ergonomics on the 458 wheel seem to be almost an exact match for my Mod 27d from Sam).
At 28cm, it's slightly larger than my Momo Mod 27d Sam Maxwell wheel, which is 27cm. I think my Mod 27d is the perfect size for open wheeler, sports, and GT-type cars. I don't do ovals, so I might find it a bit small-ish, but so far I'm loving my Mod 27d, and I think it's a much better wheel in terms of size and ergonomics than the stock GT wheel (and the buttons/ergonomics on the 458 wheel seem to be almost an exact match for my Mod 27d from Sam).
John, after spending a few hours using the wheel I have to agree about the buttons/ergonomics. I have very large hands, the button placement is perfect. If the rim were larger it would be a stretch to reach the inner buttons.
I am a bit concerned that the left paddle seems to require much more pressure to activate than the right paddle, and the travel is slightly longer. Hopefully with some more use that will improve.
I don´t understand why they shrinked it. What is the point making a replica if you are shrinking it?
Got the metal rod off the bottom and now I don't have the foot rest anymore! success!!
but now here comes the hardest part of this whole rig (IMO), mounting the pedals.
anyone with a PVC set up or something similar to mine can you please explain how you went about mounting your pedals by showing some pictures or something??
How did you get this C clips off (without a $20 special tool)?
If I remember right, I read somewhere that it was because the price. You know, a real Ferrari wheel's probably thousands of dollars worth, and to avoid this being a real replacement, they had to shrink it.
Of course, this can be complete bogus, but it makes good sense to me.
I don´t understand why they shrinked it. What is the point making a replica if you are shrinking it?
That size is great for rallying so not totally useless but for everything else where it would be suitable I would rather go for the F1 style rim for the "twitch shooters" cars.
There was room for a 320 mm rim. It´s very ergonomic you get in a really strong position with it but there was a long adjustment period because I have never sim raced with larger rims then the Fanatec ones.
John BodinAt 28cm, it's slightly larger than my Momo Mod 27d Sam Maxwell wheel, which is 27cm. I think my Mod 27d is the perfect size for open wheeler, sports, and GT-type cars. I don't do ovals, so I might find it a bit small-ish, but so far I'm loving my Mod 27d, and I think it's a much better wheel in terms of size and ergonomics than the stock GT wheel (and the buttons/ergonomics on the 458 wheel seem to be almost an exact match for my Mod 27d from Sam).
JogoAsobiAfter spending a few hours using the wheel I have to agree about the buttons/ergonomics. I have very large hands, the button placement is perfect. If the rim were larger it would be a stretch to reach the inner buttons.
If I remember right, I read somewhere that it was because the price. You know, a real Ferrari wheel's probably thousands of dollars worth, and to avoid this being a real replacement, they had to shrink it.
Of course, this can be complete bogus, but it makes good sense to me.
According to someone over on the iRacing forums, the rim itself for the real F458 is made by Sparco for Ferrari (exclusively). The paddles and controllers are Ferrari's own design.
Total wheel replacement is $13k. US.
So, yeah, I'm going to be pretty happy laying out $149 for a nearly identical replica.
Also, FWIW, the Momo Mod 27d wheel that Sam Maxwell used for my Sam Maxwell Momo Mod 27d wheel add-on sells for over $230 for just the wheel alone, not including the button plate, shift paddles, buttons, or T500 adapter -- so costly, "advanced" and ultra-realistic options like that are already available . . . that's just not the target market for TM's add-on wheels.
Thrustmaster is a business, and you have to keep in mind that you could buy a T500RS wheel/pedal set and ALL the available wheels for roughly the same price (or actually a little less, I think) of a CSW and ONE of the Fanatec wheel "options" (SANS pedals!), so TM is offering more of a "mainstream" product that features performance that equals its closest "higher-end" competitor. Pretty savvy business, IMO.