The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
  • 9,924 comments
  • 2,169,261 views
Thanks for posting this Logi, another one I somehow missed.
Very good info, if my current V.5 fan gets any noisier I will probably do this.

No problem. It only took a few minutes and I thought it might help people take the plunge. ;)

I still had the old fan from way back when I put a replacement fan on my V2 that died in the same manner as izver described... with a puff of smoke and a stench that will remain forever. That fan was less noisy as the fan had become in my V4 wheel, which had a top mounted fan as well, but not by much. Hence I took the chance to get a 25mm thick fan and grabbed the in my opinion best I could get, and it fits exactly in the spot.
I secured the fan with 2 strips of double sided tape on the bottom and on the side, so that it doesn't start to wobble quickly and loosen the glue from the tape with it. Cause all those FFB vibrations and the vibrations from tactile will have an impact over time. You should be able to see what I mean with "taping bottom and side" when you open the wheel.

Also there are two taps on the left side of the housing for the steering shaft, that's where I put the connector from the fan to the included extension cable (which you will need). That way it's securely held in place and there is no way the connector can dislodge somehow.
It all fits like a charm, but don't go bigger than 60x60x25mm as there is no room to go bigger than that.
Well, maybe a 80x80x25mm would fit (big maybe), but half of that fan would just blow against the steering shaft housing with little to no effect on the motor's temperature. In fact it might generate more unwanted noise because of the extra airflow that immediately becomes turbulent against that housing. So in the end I didn't find it to be a good option.
 
No problem. It only took a few minutes and I thought it might help people take the plunge. ;)

Thanks for sharing! I replaced the fan in my V.1 so I have been down that road before.
The part I hated the most, was the snap-fit of the housing when putting it all back together.
 
Thanks for sharing! I replaced the fan in my V.1 so I have been down that road before.
The part I hated the most, was the snap-fit of the housing when putting it all back together.

Yeah, that was always fiddly. I did it a few times now and got the hang of it. I haven't really got any tips for that other than to push down the left and right edges of the front part (where the black screws are), and do this after you dropped the top over the grey ridge of the grey plate (where the screw is under the black plate).

Good news though for when you get a new fan. Cause actually with the new fan I found it slides in place easier, as you don't have the sheet metal fan duct anymore which was around the top fan. That duct always got stuck on the motor's cooling block, and with the motor always hitting the backside of the case it required a lot of patience until you finally get it to snap into place.

So yeah, when you get to it there should be enough clearance to make it easy. The fan has 3-4 mm of clearance from the top, which is more than enough room to maneuver the top into place.
 
Thanks for sharing! I replaced the fan in my V.1 so I have been down that road before.
The part I hated the most, was the snap-fit of the housing when putting it all back together.

Made all the worse by the nagging thought all of this was the result of some designer who wanted that screwy case indentation for aesthetic purposes. I really think things would have been a lot simpler had they just made the top a single piece of plastic.
 
Will any expert please tell me how to mount this extra fan and its three wires to my T500RS ? Thanks
 

Attachments

  • 20140406_140248.jpg
    20140406_140248.jpg
    802.5 KB · Views: 82
Will any expert please tell me how to mount this extra fan and its three wires to my T500RS ? Thanks

No clue. I just replaced my fan, so I still have one fan.

Also I noticed you cut off the connector of that fan you're holding. Else you could have simply used a fan splitter.
 
I have owned my Thrustmaster T500RS (V.4) for more than a year now. It's easily the best wheel from all the wheels I have owned and tested so far. So smooth and so powerful. :)

This is already my third T500RS set so far. Actually, I have been a faithful T500RS user for more than three years now, ever since January 2011.

The last two T500RS sets I sold to couple of my friends because I hardly had any use for the wheel by the time, had no issues with neither wheel (both were V.1 I believe). I could never go back to my previously owned Logitech G25/G27/DFGT wheels or Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo Wheel (which was an disappointment from the start, most likely my first and last Fanatec wheel).

But, as always, there is a but. The only real complaint I have with the T500RS is the fan (surprise, surprise), mine is propably going to die soon as it already had produced a loud grinding noise sometimes. But luckily that problem will go away soon, thanks to LogiForce for bringing out the perfect solution for replacing stock T500RS fan (at least from my point of view). :)


Here's a whole list of all peripherals and mods I have fitted on my rig (Playseat GT):

- Thrustmaster T500RS (V.4)
- Thrustmaster TH8RS
- DSD Pro Sequential Shifter (now on it's way back to DSD for short throw conversion and full overhaul)
- T500RS brake mod kit by BasherBoards
- T500 static sliding Pro-Race system by SR Hardware
- TH8RS short shift plate by YipZone + aftermarket gear knob and shortened shaft
- 350mm Momo Model 80 leather steering wheel + DSD quick attach wheel adapter for T500 wheels
- DSD Velocity r5 button box


Yesterday I took some quick photos of the whole setup. Here they are:



IMG_1079.JPG


IMG_1080.JPG


IMG_1081.JPG


IMG_1082.JPG


IMG_1084.JPG


IMG_1085.JPG
 
Last edited:
Nice setup tUMi!

That plate you have there from SR hardware is a lot like what I had designed that Germinator had asked about, except for a phone/tablet. I didn't realized SR hardware had something out already. Not cheap though... (not that I plan to make/sell one)
 
Nice setup tUMi!

That plate you have there from SR hardware is a lot like what I had designed that Germinator had asked about, except for a phone/tablet. I didn't realized SR hardware had something out already. Not cheap though... (not that I plan to make/sell one)

Thank you. :)

You're right, SR Hardware's plate is certainly not cheap but I can tell that it's a quality product and it's well worth the money if you're really in need to get something like this. Surely it's possible to get something similar with much cheaper price and with same functionality but I doubt that it could be something so easy to install and use like this one is what SR Hardware have produced. It sure is a nice touch for any T500RS.

Also the Pro-Race display they have put in this plate is very well programmable (with SimDash software, practically all PC racing sims are supported in it). It's so easy to set up the LED lights and other functions to work just the way you want them. :) I really don't have anything bad to say about it, just the steep price but that's about it.
 
Nice setup tUMi!

That plate you have there from SR hardware is a lot like what I had designed that Germinator had asked about, except for a phone/tablet. I didn't realized SR hardware had something out already. Not cheap though... (not that I plan to make/sell one)

Something similar could be made from acrylic, it's strong and can easily bend too. Does that plate fix into place behind the removable wheel? I ordered a cheap mobile phone car cradle so hopefully when it arrives it will fulfil my needs, although it won't look as good as the SR hardware plate.
 
It screws right into the ring that goes over the paddle shifters. There are 6 screws there that are perfect for it.

The one I designed had set the phone back a little from there so that your hands won't hit it by accident.

Edit: I'll just post a pic of it... Doesn't matter much I suppose lol I should note... That was just something I whipped up quickly and never really finished at all. That's why it looks weird... (and why I wasn't going to post it)

Edit, again: Also Germinator... Thank you VERY much for the kind words earlier in the thread. :)
 

Attachments

  • Capture.JPG
    Capture.JPG
    18.1 KB · Views: 27
Last edited:
Hi guys!

I installed Windows 8.1 on my new PC recently. After installing main programs and drivers, the first thing I did was to try out Euro Truck Simulator 2 on full graphics. The basic controls of my T500 RS were set up automatically. When I started to drive, I recognized that the wheel didn't work properly. The rotation was about 800°, and the center was hard to find. For the finest movement, the car's wheel turned immediately half way left or right. From then, turning it more and more, the wheel worked as it supposed to do. After restarting the PC, downloading control panel and updating firmware, it got worse; it did not do anything. After reinstalling drivers again, the wheel's red led has lit up, and the wheel has calibrated, but this time games and programs could not recognize the rotation of the wheel, and even the pedals did not work (buttons too), so I'm sure that it's software problem. According to update service, I have the latest driver, which is not true, because it's V41. Firmware update(,which would be the solution,) doesn't work. It doesn't work with other PCs and PS3(it says unknown usb device). So what can I do?

Apart from that, my TH8RS also doesn't work. I can't see any sign of life on it. I tried the reset button. I don't think that any of the products is under warranty.

Thanks for your help.
 
Unfortunately the car mount holder is not quite low or high enough as it obscures the screen from my driving position.

GtiUMERl.jpg

CZ4WN5Pl.jpg

rZdlRlzl.jpg

Amja2YVl.jpg


I think that I should look at mounts which have a large flexible neck and will allow me to clamp to the back of the wheel. (If such a thing exists)
 
Unfortunately the car mount holder is not quite low or high enough as it obscures the screen from my driving position.

Thanks for posting these pics... 👍
...now looking at the previous rendering by mrbasher...
...I would think more height is better for similar applications...
...except that it might then partially obstruct monitor view?
 
Unfortunately the car mount holder is not quite low or high enough as it obscures the screen from my driving position.

GtiUMERl.jpg

CZ4WN5Pl.jpg

rZdlRlzl.jpg

Amja2YVl.jpg


I think that I should look at mounts which have a large flexible neck and will allow me to clamp to the back of the wheel. (If such a thing exists)
Can I use this idea using my Samsung galaxy S4 on PS3 .. GranTurismo6 ? And how? Whats the name of this app.?
 
Unfortunately the car mount holder is not quite low or high enough as it obscures the screen from my driving position.


rZdlRlzl.jpg

Since it's on what looks to be a ball swivel, have you tried rotating the whole thing "upside down" ? Just take the phone like it is and spin it so it's turned over.

It should put it somewhere in the neighborhood of the red box in the attached pic.
 

Attachments

  • temp.jpg
    temp.jpg
    43.6 KB · Views: 18
Germinator you now have the perfect excuse to get a 365 mm rim :) I have a similar mount for my 5,5"?? Note 2 though I believe mine sits quite a bit lower just infront of the paddles and with my 365 mm rim I do get a free view of it. I don´t really need it though since I get rev lights on my SRW S1 wheel I have mounted.
 
Thanks for posting these pics... 👍
...now looking at the previous rendering by mrbasher...
...I would think more height is better for similar applications...
...except that it might then partially obstruct monitor view?

All depends on racing position and height of the monitor. But you're right, for my setup having it high would obstruct my vision.

Can I use this idea using my Samsung galaxy S4 on PS3 .. GranTurismo6 ? And how? Whats the name of this app.?

The app is called HUD Dash and I'm beta testing it atm. From my understanding it will only work with PC and any Android device (I can't remember the exact versions it will work with, but Jelly Bean and KitKat work as well as only supporting a few games like pCars, Assetto Corsa, R3E).

I'm no expert with these things and don't know 100% if it will work with the PS3, so you can reach the developer here:
http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php?threads/hud-dash-android.2929/page-3#post-115062

Since it's on what looks to be a ball swivel, have you tried rotating the whole thing "upside down" ? Just take the phone like it is and spin it so it's turned over.

It should put it somewhere in the neighborhood of the red box in the attached pic.

Yeah, I tried that but the problem is:
- The lip at the front of holder gets in the way
- It doesn't sit flush at the back due to the plastic round bits (I'm sure it must have a technical name, Gaiter???)
- If moving the phone closer to the front of the wheel it will obstruct as you turn the wheel

Germinator you now have the perfect excuse to get a 365 mm rim :) I have a similar mount for my 5,5"?? Note 2 though I believe mine sits quite a bit lower just infront of the paddles and with my 365 mm rim I do get a free view of it. I don´t really need it though since I get rev lights on my SRW S1 wheel I have mounted.

A bigger wheel would open so many possibilities but I guess what MrBasher designed would be the best choice if I can't get the right holder. Maybe, creating a cardboard template and then using fibreglass and what the American's call 'bondo' to re-enforce it may work too.
 
Hey guys,

Just after a bit of info about the F1 add on wheel. I want to buy the add on but want to know if when stripped down the grips can be removed. I would like to do my own mods to the rim but if I cant remove the actual grips each side it may prove difficult.

Any info or pics appreciated, I cant find any pics to show with the grips removed.

Evo
 
I use this window mount that can be bent into any position you like. The base is mounted to the monitor base. It clears the steering and sits neatly in place of sim cockpit dash position. The only time I have to peer past it is to select the menu options for rf2
image.jpg
 
Further to what I asked about the F1 rim, does anyone know where I can get a set of the decals made or if any sets are available anywhere?
 
I'm asking on behalf of someone who is a disabled gamer and cannot make use of pedals. Is it possible to mod the paddle shifters to use pots therefore making them act as analogue accelerate and brake?
 
I'm asking on behalf of someone who is a disabled gamer and cannot make use of pedals. Is it possible to mod the paddle shifters to use pots therefore making them act as analogue accelerate and brake?

I have seen people put that steel-series f1 wheel on a Logitech, and then use the progressive paddles there, with the normal paddles for shifting, I am sure the same could be done for the Thrustmaster.
 
Not simply. However, I have helped a few folks out in similar situations using a variety of methods. One guy had a joystick he connected through one of my SFA1 adapters. I only charge my cost for this kind of thing, no labor/time. Everyone deserves to race. Please have him/her contact me through the contact form on my website.
 
I'm asking on behalf of someone who is a disabled gamer and cannot make use of pedals. Is it possible to mod the paddle shifters to use pots therefore making them act as analogue accelerate and brake?
I guess you will have to take off the steering wheel and then the shifting paddles .. after that you will be able to see the 2 buttons on each side .. where they are placed under the middle short springs .. these buttons are the ones you need to modify .. you might wanna think about a great idea before taking things off .. and make sure that you don't modify those buttons .. just make new ones .. you might wanna return the wheel back to its factory shape if you wanna sell it someday or something .. however you can try making the analog boards like those in the controller but you also need them to be as small as the shifting paddles' buttons.
 
FYI, for people who have been looking for permanent replacement paddle shifter switches for the fixed paddles on the T500 base and/or the F1 wheel, Basherboards and Bodin Solutions are proud to offer you the BSW-T500-F1 switches for the Thrustmaster T500 F1 wheel, and the BSW-T500-B switches for the fixed paddle shifters on the T500RS base.

These switches replace the stock switches for the built-in paddle shifters for the T500 F1 wheel or the fixed shifters on the T500RS base, and they are rated at 10 million cycles, which means they should last the life of your wheel, making this a more durable replacement than the stock switches provided by Thrustmaster as warranty replacements. These switches should be lifetime replacements, even for the most demanding drivers.

These BSW-T500-B and BSW-T500-F1 switches will be $19.50 per pair, meaning you will get a complete set of two (2) replacement switches (one for the left paddle, and one for the right paddle). Shipping will be $2 for U.S. customers, or $6 for international customers.

BSW-T500-F1b_zps7a8610a4.jpg


BSW-T500-Bb_zpsbd0289c5.jpg


Note: This includes the switches only -- you will need to re-use the springs and foam inserts from your existing switch assemblies, so make sure you don't lose them during replacement.

Check out the Bodin Solutions Website for more details -- units are in stock now for immediate delivery.

:cool:

Hi all, just trying to find these (replacement paddle shifter switches) anywhere, tried Bodin's but says out of stock and I need them asap..
anyone help me out with a part number or something so I can chase them down, Thanks
 
Hi all, just trying to find these (replacement paddle shifter switches) anywhere, tried Bodin's but says out of stock and I need them asap..
anyone help me out with a part number or something so I can chase them down, Thanks

Which do you need? The switches on the base or the F1 rim switches?

It's my fault John is out and if you really need them quickly I can send you a set and you can work out payment with John separately. Just contact m through my site or PM me here.
 
I have seen people put that steel-series f1 wheel on a Logitech, and then use the progressive paddles there, with the normal paddles for shifting, I am sure the same could be done for the Thrustmaster.

He has done that previously, however the simraceway wheel broke on him after 10 hours use.

dscf2121h.jpg


Not simply. However, I have helped a few folks out in similar situations using a variety of methods. One guy had a joystick he connected through one of my SFA1 adapters. I only charge my cost for this kind of thing, no labor/time. Everyone deserves to race. Please have him/her contact me through the contact form on my website.

I'll have him join this site so he can see what his options are.

I guess you will have to take off the steering wheel and then the shifting paddles .. after that you will be able to see the 2 buttons on each side .. where they are placed under the middle short springs .. these buttons are the ones you need to modify .. you might wanna think about a great idea before taking things off .. and make sure that you don't modify those buttons .. just make new ones .. you might wanna return the wheel back to its factory shape if you wanna sell it someday or something .. however you can try making the analog boards like those in the controller but you also need them to be as small as the shifting paddles' buttons.

I think DIY mod'ing is probably beyond his technical capability. I'm shocked tbh that there isn't an off the shelf solution already. There are some great projects that would be great for disabled gamers however, manufacturers don't want to cater for them. :(

https://revision3.com/tbhs/analog-wasd-gaming-keyboard
 

Latest Posts

Back