JogoAsobi
Premium
- 2,578
Awesome! 👍 👍 👍
If I didn't already have an OwensRacing Big Brake Pedal, I'd be beating your door down for a set!
Last edited:
Anyone modded T500 RS steering centre stripe to a different colour or know aftermarket parts that you can buy and fit GT wheel?
I'm looking for a yellow colour one.
Thanks in advance.
Anyone here who have a solution of what to do when the DSD adapter don´t align in the correct position becuse you have a newer SKU of the T500?
My solution at the moment is hoping the grip never tightens to the point of needing the screw. My old V2 needed that screw, but so far, the latest revision is good even without it.
RE: Post 9037
Okay, so it turns out the pedals automatically establish a dead-zone whenever you re-calibrate the pedals. You press the pedals fully and then when it snaps back, that's your established range. And it seems Thrustmaster automatically adds 1/4 inch to that for your "safety" dead-zone.
The above mods I did are really good for quieting the pedals, but won't address the deadzone (beyond the first time you plug your wheel in, calibrate, and THEN apply the pads). The next time it's replugged back into the computer it'll just re-establish a different dead-zone.
I think I might try coming up with some kind of clip-on. I can calibrate to the fuller range, then apply the clip to get it back out.
Paul,
This is exactly right. In fact the TX does this as well. Also, they add a deadzone at the end of travel as well! I shouldn't say that because now anyone that reads this and has been happily using their pedals without noticing will be looking for it. haha Not only that but they have something in the software that makes them sort of "stick" in the deadzone. It's hard to explain. I will say the brake seems to have smaller deadzones than the other pedals.
The only reason I can come up with for the deadzones is to prevent issues that may crop up as the pots age. Given that the wheel is constantly auto-calibrating the min and max points. If the pots are dirty and jittery, you end up with false min and max points. This creates a situation in which you can't get to 0% or 100%.
I overcame this with my CPX adapter via software, but that thing has complete control of it's outputs. For the T500RS pedals, you could do the following to reduce that deadzone:
Calibrate the pedals after turning on the wheel.
Then place your little pads behind the pedals.
What you've then done is calibrated the minimum position which won't ever increase, only go further towards true zero. (potentially) Then, you've moved the pedal's at rest point closer to the edge of the deadzone.
Kind of a pain but I'm not sure what else you can do without using something between the pedals and the wheel to fool it.
This is really interesting. Thank you for the information. I guess using a john bodin adapter for the G27 pedals,it would do the same for those pedals? I have been contemplating getting the adapter to use my old G27 pedals but they would react the same.
Where can I get these? Who else makes replacement pedal faces?
what's the synopsis on the T500 and GT6 patch 1.07, does the wheel feel "more vibrant" and stiffer than before? I think so. I'm only on FFB 3 too. (I drive Nur a lot, I want to prolong the life of the wheel, though probably makes no difference in the long run really, If the wheel breaks, regardless of when, I'll have to have it "fixed asap!"