The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

[oqvist]

I have seen people put that steel-series f1 wheel on a Logitech, and then use the progressive paddles there, with the normal paddles for shifting, I am sure the same could be done for the Thrustmaster.

That wheel is not solid enough it cracks even on a G27 at times.

 

[Simmpa]

How do I remove the GT wheel? I have removed the screw but on the videos I see on youtube it looks incredible easy but for me it just seems impossible to screw off the damn thing.

 

[Zero7159]

How do I remove the GT wheel? I have removed the screw but on the videos I see on youtube it looks incredible easy but for me it just seems impossible to screw off the damn thing.

Loosen but don't remove the set screw. Loosen it enough to where you see three threads, but don't remove it entirely. Then hold the collar and turn the wheel counter-clockwise. The first time I remember it being pretty snug, but from that point forward, assuming you do not overtighten it when you put it back on, it should come off pretty easily.

 

[Simmpa]

Loosen but don't remove the set screw. Loosen it enough to where you see three threads, but don't remove it entirely. Then hold the collar and turn the wheel counter-clockwise. The first time I remember it being pretty snug, but from that point forward, assuming you do not overtighten it when you put it back on, it should come off pretty easily.

Too bad I already removed the screw does that affect how easy it will go off? I feel as if the collar is glued to the wheel, I seriously need a wrench to screw it off.

 

[Sixflags48]

Too bad I already removed the screw does that affect how easy it will go off? I feel as if the collar is glued to the wheel, I seriously need a wrench to screw it off.

Just screw it harder. (Even if your not into that kind of thing.)

With @Zero7159's comment, using the wheel as some extra leverage would be a good idea if you can get a strong enough grasp on the collar.

 

[LogiForce]

Loosen but don't remove the set screw. Loosen it enough to where you see three threads, but don't remove it entirely. Then hold the collar and turn the wheel counter-clockwise. The first time I remember it being pretty snug, but from that point forward, assuming you do not overtighten it when you put it back on, it should come off pretty easily.

To be honest, I don't even use that set screw anymore. I feel it's rather useless as it doesn't really secure QR collar into place anyway. So I figured it was just a nuisance when swapping wheels.
Now I just wiggle the wheel a bit (pull&push motion on the left and right sides of the wheel) while tightening and removing my wheels. This way you can tighten/loosen the QR collar a bit more easily without a whole lot of strength.

 

[Simmpa]

Do you guys have the same problem? What version do you all have? When I watch the video from ISR I see Shaun twist on the collar like you need to force applied at all. I have serious cramp in my index finger and thumb right now, I even tried to twist it with some rubber to get more grip but it won´t move an inch.

 

[nipzon]

Mine is just the opposite where I have to screw the living daylights out of it to get it tight enough so there is no play on the steering. And I use the set screw to keep it from loosening. I even marked it with a white marker to make sure it goes all the way to previous position.

 

[Paul33993]

My old one was loose. But I'm beginning to wonder if it was always a little defective from the start. Unfortunately, the other week I had to put it to pasture (made too many mods to it to be able to send it in for warranty service).

Using the second T500 I got in the Microcenter deal, it's so much nicer than my old wheel. No constant noise. Which is why I think my V2 may have been defective from the start. There was always creaking noises that came from it. But I just chalked it up to my convertible rig. Thought it was from the frame flexing. Well... with the new one, there's none of this noise.

Getting back to that issue, it was put to pasture because it made a horrible grinding noise when I turned the wheel to the left. And after checking all the usual suspects, and taking it mostly apart, I could see there was flex in the steering column. I'm not talking 4 screws need tightening, I'm talking most likely a crack in the shaft somewhere. And that's why it always made that flexing sound... until it finally gave way and sounded like plastic death.

The new wheel seems tight, but being that it's the latest revision, and I'm using an older DSD adapter, the screw doesn't go in at 12 o'clock like you'd want, it goes into the threads thanks to Thrustmaster shortening the latch with the revision. So who knows how this is going to play long term. This wheel is going to be RMA'd for any defects though. So Thrustmaster won't avoid any responsibility with this one.

 

[TheORDL]

Anyone help with the F1 rim quesion I posted? I took the plunge and have ordered one anyway, time to order some carbon fibre hehehehe

 

[Gunstar]

https://marcushwang.wordpress.com/tag/t500rs-f1-rim-mod/

Pretty detailed mod info here ORDL.

 

[Matrixi]

I've removed the small screw on the tightening ring every time I've taken the wheel off, no problems..

My ultimate race/flight simrig project is close to finished now, triple monitors and a nice keyboard/trackpad combo still left to procure.

 

[Simmpa]

I've removed the small screw on the tightening ring every time I've taken the wheel off, no problems..

My ultimate race/flight simrig project is close to finished now, triple monitors and a nice keyboard/trackpad combo still left to procure.

Wish I had that one, I have regular Obutto Ozone and the space where the pedals are put is very cramped, you cannot rest your left foot anywhere. Only thing missing on your rig is a Sam Maxwell modded Momo wheel.

 

[mrbasher]

Simpa,

I have one recommendation, though I am not sure it will help you with the "crampedness."

I have the Ozone as well and found that the pedals worked best sitting on the floor and not on the pedal plate thing it comes with. That plate flexes too much for my taste. The T500RS pedals actually fit perfectly when they sit on the ground and don't move around either as the back of them is stopped by the bar on the Ozone.

Anyhow, just something to try if you haven't already.

 

[Zero7159]

Simpa,

I have one recommendation, though I am not sure it will help you with the "crampedness."

I have the Ozone as well and found that the pedals worked best sitting on the floor and not on the pedal plate thing it comes with. That plate flexes too much for my taste. The T500RS pedals actually fit perfectly when they sit on the ground and don't move around either as the back of them is stopped by the bar on the Ozone.

Anyhow, just something to try if you haven't already.

+1 I have the Ozone with the T500 pedals and I did not like how cramped things were if the pedals were on the pedal plate. I removed the pedal plate and just put the pedals on the floor, where they rest against the back bar of the Ozone. This set up works perfectly, no movement whatsoever and I have plenty of room for my left foot to rest on the pedal heel rest.

 

[Paul33993]

I've removed the small screw on the tightening ring every time I've taken the wheel off, no problems..

My ultimate race/flight simrig project is close to finished now, triple monitors and a nice keyboard/trackpad combo still left to procure.

I like this. I could work this core concept into my rig. Especially when the Rift finally releases.

If you hook pedals up via USB, can you actually use them in flight sims too?

 

[Matrixi]

Yeah, I have the pedals hooked up via USB and they work fine for flying. Although, the stock T500 pedals would propably be better for flying as the clutch and throttle resistance/travel are identical.

 

[Paul33993]

Yeah, I have the pedals hooked up via USB and they work fine for flying. Although, the stock T500 pedals would propably be better for flying as the clutch and throttle resistance/travel are identical.

Anyone know if John Bodin ever sold his Bodinhausen directly through his website? Or was it always through a third party site. Can't find it on his website.

EDIT: Oh, you need the Bodnar adapter too. Suddenly getting expensive. Does anyone make a single solution to hook up via USB?

 

[TheORDL]

Thanks for the reply, I had already had a good look through that build. Wanted to know if the actual rubber grips could be removed or not.

Mine has actually arrived and looking at it, it seems they cant be removed easily.

 

[Azure Flare]

@TheORDL

I bet that'll work.

 

[TheORDL]

When I say easily I mean to reattach afterwards without butchering it. Im thinking stanley knife down the seam and some super glue when im done.

 

[StrongManBR]

'received mine yesterday...i like it so far and for the price I'm not complaining..I don't have the f1 rim and this wheel is perfect for all around use.

i was curious to find out if bigger wheel might work with some mod?

Please, any progress with mod GTE? Can you try momo D35(350mm), but we need extended paddles or replace it.

 

[StrongManBR]

Here's a little something I whipped up this evening. This is a fake Momo I purchased off ebay for $55. It's 345mm diameter, 70mm mounting holes. The rim is actually pretty nice for a knock off, though I don't think I'd use it in a real car. However, on a sim wheel, it's great. The suede feels nice.

The adapter is CNC machined from a piece of HDPE I had laying around. It mounts nice and snug despite being a piece of plastic and having been a simple prototype:

So still some more room for improvement. This was just a proof of concept. I raced with it for a little while and being seated in F1 position the rim is a bit on the large side... The paddles are also a bit of a reach with a rim this large.

Anyhow, pretty cool

Can you try RMK adapter(custom) between mini plate and aftermarket wheel?

 

[oqvist]

Any TX owners here? I wonder if I am not missing an adapter or something. I got some weird blue USB cable thingie that don´t go anywhere. The usb cable seem to be permanently attached like on the T500RS but it ends in some PS2 ish cable end so what is missing for connecting to an USB port . There is no hidden separate usb port for PC? The manual don´t mention such a thing.

 

[StrongManBR]

Pedals > Wheel > USB > PC

Pedals + Shifter > Wheel > USB > PC

 

[oqvist]

panic over on search run 20 I found that little bugger

 

[runfast1]

Hey Guys,
when I swap rims on the t500 I turn off the power and swap then turn on the power and the wheel rotates like normal. But I have to restart my pc! I tried unplugging usb and turning power off and on again. some DLL message is popping up when I try to access the t500 controller software. Is this normal? help please.
thanks,

 

[skazz]

Hey Guys,
when I swap rims on the t500 I turn off the power and swap then turn on the power and the wheel rotates like normal. But I have to restart my pc! I tried unplugging usb and turning power off and on again. some DLL message is popping up when I try to access the t500 controller software. Is this normal? help please.
thanks,

When swapping rims I always follow the manual, so unplug USB, power off, then switch rims. Then I replug the USB and power back on. So far that's worked fine for switching rims without needing to power off the PS3 or the PC. Given that USB is supposed to be "plug and play" you shouldn't need to do anything to the PC.

 

[JogoAsobi]

When swapping rims I always follow the manual, so unplug USB, power off, then switch rims. Then I replug the USB and power back on. So far that's worked fine for switching rims without needing to power off the PS3 or the PC. Given that USB is supposed to be "plug and play" you shouldn't need to do anything to the PC.

Yep, same I have always done myself....and if doing GT5/GT6 on PS3, I re-calibrate the brakes again.

 

[eKretz]

What do you guys think of these 304 stainless pedal pads for the T500?