The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

  • Thread starter The_It_Jojo
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I wonder if anyone has attempted this with an awd car like a 918? I'm too poor to be spending all the funds on a 918 I want to keep nearly stock!!! :(
The 2013 918 Spyder is decent for this race, I've done 26:40 with it (no stops), but I did apply full weight reduction including stage 5, I don't know how it performs if no permanent changes are made.
 
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The 2013 918 Spyder is decent for this race, I've done 26:40 with it (no stops), but I did apply full weight reduction including stage 5, I don't know how it performs if no permanent changes are made.
Can you post the tune ?

Some more winners.
Could you post the mclaren f1 tune? 🙏
 
Can you post the tune ?
Just made another tweak to it, and did 26:37. This tune is the result of doing the race about 15 times with this car. My first attempt was 27:17. I got it down towards 27 mins, but wasn't getting under 27 mins. Then I made some changes that got it down to around 26:48, tweaked a bit but it was around the same level for several races. Then another decent improvement got it down to 26:40, again was stuck around that level for a few races as I tried some other things that didn't make much difference. Then the final change just now was to get rid of the brake upgrades and give it more power instead, that got it from 26:40 to 26:37.

The way to drive it is no stops, fuel mix 1, shift as soon as the bar starts to go red. You need to change to mix 2 once you're in 5th gear after turn 2, then back to mix 1 as you accelerate out of the final hairpin. I used 3rd gear for the final hairpin, a bit of throttle can help it turn better around there. Brake balance to the front helps keep the tyre wear more even, but does mean it doesn't want to turn very well under full braking. I had enough fuel to use mix 1 all the way for the last 2 laps.

If you don't have access to stage 5 weight reduction, you'll be able to give it more power, but this will just make the fuel more of a problem, so it probably won't be as fast. I've been trying to develop a tune without any weight reduction at all, but so far I haven't been able to get under 27 minutes.

This isn't the fastest car for this track, the DP-100, for example, is still significantly quicker, but I like the 918 and felt it was worth spending the time trying to perfect the tune for this race. I used a controller with stick steering to drive it, and used TC 1.

Tokyo 600 Porsche 918 weight reduction 1.jpg


Tokyo 600 Porsche 918 weight reduction 2.jpg


Tokyo 600 Porsche 918 weight reduction 3.jpg
 
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Yeah it's one of my favourite cars to grind the Tokyo now. Someone did say it chugs gasoline at WTC700 though.
I have it in my notes right here. Tested on 2 tunes with AT’s, the Delta turns 3 laps at FM6 with the pedal mashed and will do it at FM5 with very little effort and 2 laps at FM2 (hint, the base turbo is plenty good, but the upgrade doesn’t really kill your econ either). For Sarthe, I consider 3 laps efficient as more often than not, youre going to need tires of some sort. I would be surprised if it couldn’t reach 4-5 laps with a MT.

I can’t speak for Tokyo, I just like to read here once in awhile, lol.
 
Some other cars I think there's no way unless power upgrades are added:

I tried the Mitsubishi GTO, Mazda RX-7 FC, BMW M3 Evo, Hyundai Genesis, Subaru WRX GC8, Integra 98, both Audi TT's (although the 14' TT is pretty good, I might try it again) and the Mustang GT 15'. Adding power upgrades is something that I don't want to use in this race, so for now I'll say it's not possible to win with those cars. The Mustang is fast, but the fuel economy is awful.
Sounds like a challenge. :mischievous:

Didn't tried all of them, I think you need at least 250hp and top speed of 250km/h, of course it depends on weight and acceleration some cars can do it with a few less.

GC8 and it's nemesis (All with only WR and RH, stock gearbox)
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but it would be fair comparing two in their special model so the 22B too.
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Video run of the GC8(22B and EVO6 got video too)

The lack of top speed is a problem but they got the acceleration to overcome.
Both Impreza are more stable and the EVO is more agile. Top speed of the 22B is the lowest cost it so much on the overall time.(Just one move Blocking before the finish line)

They need short shift for both acceleration and milage because they run half the long straight in max rpm eating so much fuel.(GC8 on FM2 and others on 3)


Also tried the Genesis and won in 1 weight reduction and upgrade flywheel(should be fine with more WR + standard flywheel) Sorry didn't took the video of that.

The FC is under power so did in it's more powerful grandpa
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All stock with RH

Anyone ever tried using the Lancer Gr. B Road Car?
Just tried
Screenshot_20220815-024634_YouTube.jpg

and the Subaru
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Video of the evo run

Sorry if someone love them but for me they drive like a truck with so much understeer.
Basically drove them like shooting, slow turn in, aim the exit, pull the trigger(throttle) and fire!
They have bad fuel mileage so I go for mid turbo and short shifting. (Seems all Gr road cars got bad mileage?)
With good setup they may run fine but I'm too lazy for that.



Did some classic cars runs
Tried the 356 coupe but it need a bit more power, may try it again with the speedster that got 10 more hp.(Wait it appears in LCD again)
Got a run in the 993 instead
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Tried the SH approach but not enough straight line speed. With RH it still can't get it until I throw it in corners more aggressively.


Ferrari 500 Mondial Pinin Farina Coupe
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Felt better with Sport tires. Not the most difficult classic car to drive but still struggled a bit.
Rpm pass the red zone till 9k for better acceleration.
 
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Another sub 27 minute option, and very easy to drive if you use TC 1, despite being RWD, very stable. This was with a one stop, the fuel lasts 10 laps, so it's tempting to try to make it last 12, but it's just a lot slower than stopping. I pitted after 6 laps, and was using 10% per lap, so just added 20% fuel to take it to 60%. You need to shift as soon as red shows on the bar, not to save fuel, but because the power falls off rapidly past that point.

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Tokyo 600 AMG VGT 3.jpg
 
Been doing this race with gr2 cars and some gr1 (in some of the older gr1 cars, I could detune them to go bellow 600pp. Unfortunately I couldnt detune drop the newer gr1 cars bellow 600pp, even thought I didnt try comfort tyres). Detuning these cars will make them drop to 250/350hp, so they will be owned by the AI drivers on the straight line. But they will corner better than the AI and will go "no pit". So its still easy win.
Next I will try comfort tyres for the higher pp cars like vgt, dalara, redbull, the younger gr1. See if I can drop them bellow 600pp
After will try gr3 and gr4.
 
@BWM your GC8 time is better than the 22B :lol:
I personally feel the 22B is a tad better, but I prefer the GC8.

Our times with the Evo VI are quite similar. You got a 27:42.349. I got a 27:42.697. It's an amazing car. I might buy the custom gearbox just so I can enjoy the full speed of this thing.

I tried the 993, but with a tune from @MorseMonkey . Vey fun setup :cheers:

The WRX is a good car. This is the time with RH and the rest stock:
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And this is using RH and WR1:
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It's very safe, although it drinks a tad more fuel than the rest.



I'm still thinking about that idea of "the absolutely minimum upgrades you need to win Tokyo 600" for cars like the BMW M3 Evo or Mazda RX-7 FC, but what I've been doing lately is to see how much I can improve my lap times with the GT-R R33.

My very first time with this car was 27.42.630, with RH and WR 1.

Second time with RH and WR 2 gave me a 27:27.278 (lol).

Now, going a little out of the way with the "almost stock" idea, I noticed that using RH tires, WR 3, ECU and Racing Air Filter is enough to put me exactly at 598pp. I could just use WR 2 with Sports Silencer, but I like the default sound better.

It's not exactly "stock", right? There's 3 levels of Weight Reduction and that's a lot of weight for the R33. Racing Air Filter is not that much significant, but it does make the acceleration a little better. But how much better?

Wel...
First race
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18 seconds difference from stock, but only 2 seconds faster than using WR 2.

2nd race
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2 seconds faster than the previous race using the same setup. I wanted something below 27:20.

3rd race
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27:18.746 is 5 seconds faster than the previous race and 2 seconds faster than my best time, which I did with a stock Corvette ZR-1 88'. At this point I was curious if I could beat 27:10.

4th race
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This was a pretty good race. Tried to be as clean as possible and even got the fastest lap:
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But I felt like I could do better, so in the 5th and last race, I got this:
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27:09.348. It's... impressive. 16 seconds difference is quite a lot. The fastest lap of 2:10.286 is faster than anything I've seen from the NSX (except one race, where the car did a 2:09!). The more I do this race, the more I like it. Now it's not even because of the challenge, but because I really want to see how fast can I go! It's possible to achieve a time below 26:59? I'd say yes. Even in this 5th race I had some minor mistakes here and there and also got held up by the AI in some places.

By the way, I know that I said the R32 is my favorite. Yeah, I like that car, but... well...
1.000 km with this car!
Dc6mQca.png
 
Could you post the mclaren f1 tune? 🙏
Even with carbon ceramic discs and racing pads you still have to brake earlier than most other cars. The top speed of this car is insane. I Use a lot of ballast but the weight distribution is exactly at 50:50.
 

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This was a fun drive. Not the fastest but a good handling car. The fuel consumption is very high but I just made it doing one stop. It has DRS that drops the rear wing down just like an F1 car. It doesn't make a huge difference though. I Just did a simple test at Route-X and I got 6km/h higher top speed with the wing down.
 

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Even with carbon ceramic discs and racing pads you still have to brake earlier than most other cars. The top speed of this car is insane. I Use a lot of ballast but the weight distribution is exactly at 50:50.
This is pretty good,its a safe drive with an easy win for me,i dropped the HP and went with SM which was still a win.The previous posted tune was ballistic on the straight but i found it a nightmare to try and keep on a straight line,prob due the iffy suspension settings.Fast but not for me unfortunately,ive given up doing Tokyo as quick as possible im just trying different cars out.
 
The settings are shown at the end of the video. RH tyres with that power and weight at 484 PP is clearly a huge bug in the PP system.
There is an alternative for this tune if you dont want to equip custom parts for downforce.
Just go to lsd and drop all three values to 5.
 
This was a fun drive. Not the fastest but a good handling car. The fuel consumption is very high but I just made it doing one stop. It has DRS that drops the rear wing down just like an F1 car. It doesn't make a huge difference though. I Just did a simple test at Route-X and I got 6km/h higher top speed with the wing down.
Even with carbon ceramic discs and racing pads you still have to brake earlier than most other cars. The top speed of this car is insane. I Use a lot of ballast but the weight distribution is exactly at 50:50.
Carbon brakes actually do worse in wet weather especially when cold. IE they suck at Toyko really bad.
 
Some Scooby's to follow. I Just like them and they suit my driving style perfectly. I'll start with the oldest.

22B with maximum available hp and minimum available weight. With the low weight it finishes the race easily on SH tyres. 1 Stop only fuel.

This is another 22B on SM tyres. Also maximum hp but ballast added to get under 600pp. 1 Stop fuel and tyres.

'99 WRX STI with maximum available hp and minimum available weight. 1 Stop only fuel with SH tyres. Surprisingly I have done the best race and FL times with this car.

'14 WRX STI with maximum hp and only weight reduction stage 1 to stay with in 600pp. 1 Stop fuel only with SH tyres.

WRX Gr.B road car with maximum available hp and a little bit of ballast to get it under 600pp. This car is not fuel efficient at all. FM3 with 1 stop for fuel only on SM tyres.
 

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WRX Gr.B road car with maximum available hp and a little bit of ballast to get it under 600pp. This car is not fuel efficient at all. FM3 with 1 stop for fuel only on SM tyres.
Im glad its not me then.lol.I ran FM1 for 2 laps on the straight only then FM4 with a bit of short shifting.Pit at the end of lap 8 for fuel and tyres,i found the same poor fuel consumption with the lancer Gr b road car as well.
 
The GR Supra handles surprisingly well for a RWD on Tokyo. It's acceleration is a bit sluggish but besides that it's a nice drive. 1 stop for fuel only with SH tyres. I Had one penalty in this race and Kokubun beat my FL with 2 tenths.

The Aston One-77 is heavy. With the power detuned to get it under 600pp, the acceleration suffers quite a bit. Once it get's going it's not bad and has a very good top speed on the straight. A bit of early braking is essential to get it's heavy ass slowed down.
 

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The Aston One-77 is heavy. With the power detuned to get it under 600pp, the acceleration suffers quite a bit. Once it get's going it's not bad and has a very good top speed on the straight. A bit of early braking is essential to get it's heavy ass slowed down.
I wish I could test that car and the vulcan
 
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