The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

[rheinaoi]

WTF??? That's crazy. So now that this race has been beaten by a van and a truck, I think it's time someone tries it with the bus. I tried testing the shift kart but it's waaaaayyy too slow on the straight.

Edit: If someone can win with the van (I suspect JaK is already working on it) we should do a 'least PP" challenge.. Can a car with 550pp win? What about a car with less than 500pp?

Just claimed a victory for the swapped Sambabus. Normal Difficulty. Maybe with a more refined tune / more patience on my part, the bus can win on hard. Definitely more time to find though.

The tune was inspired by @JaK-nz 's Miata challenge. I'm not sure if I messed up the gears badly, but the Sambabus was stuck just below 170mph no matter what I did. So I put on Racing Hards. The tire rear wear is so awful under my driving style that any Sports Tires above Hards wasn't viable, even on a one stop.

Warning: My tune needs A LOT of work.

RACE TIME
27:17.069

BEST LAP
~2:11.4XX

RACE STRATEGY
Racing Hards with 1 pit stop. Pit at the end of lap 7. Take new tires and add more fuel.

NOTES

• As usual with racing tires, the first 3 laps are miserable - just focus on surviving
• Running on the dry line in the first 2 laps is even more important than the Miata. I spun on the main straight when I just put wheels in the damp sections at full throttle cruising at top speed!
• You must gain ALL your time in the high speed corners - you have an alarming amount of high speed grip, but...
• Your grip when accelerating out of slow corners is average / poor
• The PP increased a lot when I fit Racing Brakes, but they make a difference. Not enough to offset the power sacrifices for my driving. Your mileage may vary
• Brake EARLY for the final hairpin - before the first marker!
• Stay on the inside line of the final hairpin for the first ~8 laps - touching the damp area is like hitting black ice
• Other braking points are average / bad - think of a high top speed car on Sports Hards with average brakes
• RR driving techniques apply here. Always have some throttle while cornering to stabilize the bus. Lift off for more turn-in, but beware!
• The bus can snap oversteer above 140mph if you aren't paying attention, but it's not nearly bad as the bugged cars that need rear downforce to work properly

 

[JaK-nz]

Just claimed a victory for the swapped Sambabus. Normal Difficulty. Maybe with a more refined tune / more patience on my part, the bus can win on hard. Definitely more time to find though.

The tune was inspired by @JaK-nz 's Miata challenge. I'm not sure if I messed up the gears badly, but the Sambabus was stuck just below 170mph no matter what I did. So I put on Racing Hards. The tire rear wear is so awful under my driving style that any Sports Tires above Hards wasn't viable, even on a one stop.

Warning: My tune needs A LOT of work.

RACE TIME
27:17.069

BEST LAP
~2:11.4XX

This is amazing buddy!!!

I have been testing with Sports mediums and by the sound of it, they won't work. I was also getting 2.14 compared to your 2.11.

Your current time is fast enough to win on hard!
I am going to adopt your strategy of using Racing tires, I was previously scared of using them in the rain (I'm such a coward)

Top speed is always an issue with this car. I think it's due to how un aerodynamic it is and eventually wind resistance becomes too much.

Still struggling to get over the fact that you pulled a 2.11 in a sambababus

 

[Meythia]

Just claimed a victory for the swapped Sambabus. Normal Difficulty. Maybe with a more refined tune / more patience on my part, the bus can win on hard. Definitely more time to find though.

Yout time of 27:17 would have been a possible win on hard, too. I think about 27:20 is the limit of the AI, depending on drafting and pitting.

That's a really interesting Idea, finding what stuff is the least important to dump off your car to get the most out of as little PP as possible

Proposed challenge:
Find the car with the least PP to beat Tokyo WTC 600.
Rules:
all tuning parts except for roulette allowed
all settings are allowed
tyres have to be sports
PP of the car must be below 600 with stock settings (sorting out DP100 for example), but including the tyres used for the run.

Any finetuning to the rules, anyone? 😄

 

[specops]

Yout time of 27:17 would have been a possible win on hard, too. I think about 27:20 is the limit of the AI, depending on drafting and pitting.

Proposed challenge:
Find the car with the least PP to beat Tokyo WTC 600.
Rules:
all tuning parts except for roulette allowed
all settings are allowed
tyres have to be sports
PP of the car must be below 600 with stock settings (sorting out DP100 for example), but including the tyres used for the run.

Any finetuning to the rules, anyone? 😄

I'm kinda thinkin swapped Cappuccino with those rules. How about: no engine swaps allowed?

This will also get heavily into the field of glitch builds, since even if the most obvious ones have been taken out by PD, there still are minor glitches in almost all the cars with enough tinkering. In the spirit of this thread, maybe some kind of community-based approval mechanism for whether the PP in question is 'real' or not?

 

[Meythia]

no engine swaps allowed?

engine swap is already ruled out by "no roulette parts"

 

[BWM]

A quick test run
RX500 @ 543.49pp
Basically stock only with SS and Manual transmission

Not a fan of unnecessary detuning, not going to play with ballast to decrease pp.

 

[Tommy_D]

Yout time of 27:17 would have been a possible win on hard, too. I think about 27:20 is the limit of the AI, depending on drafting and pitting.

Proposed challenge:
Find the car with the least PP to beat Tokyo WTC 600.
Rules:
all tuning parts except for roulette allowed
all settings are allowed
tyres have to be sports
PP of the car must be below 600 with stock settings (sorting out DP100 for example), but including the tyres used for the run.

Any finetuning to the rules, anyone? 😄

Only thing I may want to change is the stock under 600pp rule. I don't know. How fast is a fully detuned DP-100? And how many pp is it? I've never tried it. Maybe we can split up the challenge between cars under 600pp stock and cars over 600pp. We may be surprised with the outcome.

The one major rule I would say that should be adhered to would be no wall riding. For the most part we all have been avoiding this, but it's too easy to lower your pp level by running comfort hard tires and just wall ride in a 1000hp car.

 

[lbpomg95]

Only thing I may want to change is the stock under 600pp rule. I don't know. How fast is a fully detuned DP-100? And how many pp is it? I've never tried it. Maybe we can split up the challenge between cars under 600pp stock and cars over 600pp. We may be surprised with the outcome.

The one major rule I would say that should be adhered to would be no will riding. For the most part we all have been avoiding this, but it's too easy to lower your pp level by running comfort hard tires and just wall ride in a 1000hp car.

Trying not to wallride in a BRZ Drift-swapped S13 is difficult, even on SH tyres mainly because you have to brake for turn 1 at the toll booth though

 

[GT mess hall]

Won on normal difficulty, Aventador + racing brakes and detune to 599 p.p. 8 seconds gap between me and the second place. One pit just to refuel, no tyres change

 

[Meythia]

The one major rule I would say that should be adhered to would be no will riding. For the most part we all have been avoiding this, but it's too easy to lower your pp level by running comfort hard tires and just wall ride in a 1000hp car.

Find the car with the least PP to beat Tokyo WTC 600.
Rules:
all tuning parts except for roulette allowed (no engine swaps, no upbore S or titanium rods and so on)
all settings are allowed
tyres have to be sports (hard/medium/soft/mixed)
pitting is up to everyone and the car as required or prefered for tyres

Any further finetuning to the rules?😄
I would want to add "no pp glitches" obviously as well, though I dont know how to prepare the wording for it;
in some cases it may happen at some odd values and then just one step further it all is fine again like
aero 0/100 is fine
aero 0/101 drops PP by 10 points
aero 0/102 is fine again with a +9.9 compared to 0/101 (or -0.1 compared to 0/100)

 

[Tommy_D]

It seems like the glitches are far more reigned in than before. I've seen a couple cars where moving the ballast position one notch can drop the pp by a few points but it's nothing like it used to be. I would say a 10 pp drop would probably be on the verge of a glitch but maybe not? Sometimes those big drops can actually cause some crazy bad handling through turns 3 and 4.

Also are we sure we want to keep it to just sports tires? Its fine if we want to esyablish that as a rule, but I think there is a car out there I've tried with comfort tires (cant remember, Ive tried so many at this point) and it still worked fine without needing to wall ride. I don't think it was one of the crazy fast cars like the DP-100, but something more modest.

Anyway, my guess is that we can self moderate a lot of these things and know when there is a PP glitch or some sort of glitch built that goes against the spirit of the contest.

 

[luv2drive]

It seems like the glitches are far more reigned in than before. I've seen a couple cars where moving the ballast position one notch can drop the pp by a few points but it's nothing like it used to be. I would say a 10 pp drop would probably be on the verge of a glitch but maybe not? Sometimes those big drops can actually cause some crazy bad handling through turns 3 and 4.

Also are we sure we want to keep it to just sports tires? Its fine if we want to esyablish that as a rule, but I think there is a car out there I've tried with comfort tires (cant remember, Ive tried so many at this point) and it still worked fine without needing to wall ride. I don't think it was one of the crazy fast cars like the DP-100, but something more modest.

Anyway, my guess is that we can self moderate a lot of these things and know when there is a PP glitch or some sort of glitch built that goes against the spirit of the contest.

My sense is to keep it fairly simple. No wall riding and no engine swaps.

I agree with @Tommy_D that most of the big glitches are gone. IMHO, finding the small idiosyncrasies in the PP system, such as weirdness with ballast, is part of the fun.

 

[Meythia]

My sense is to keep it fairly simple. No wall riding and no engine swaps.

I agree with @Tommy_D that most of the big glitches are gone. IMHO, finding the small idiosyncrasies in the PP system, such as weirdness with ballast, is part of the fun.

I guess this shall be it then.
Lowest PP car to beat Tokyo WTC 600 (place first), no engine swaps, no other roulette parts (let everyone participate from day1), no wall riding.
Divided by above and below stock 600 PP

 

[Tommy_D]

I guess this shall be it then.
Lowest PP car to beat Tokyo WTC 600 (place first), no engine swaps, no other roulette parts (let everyone participate from day1), no wall riding.
Divided by above and below stock 600 PP

I forgot to ask, are we looking to win on hard difficulty only? I would also say there is no requirement to get the CRB. Just win the race. Be as dirty as you want.

 

[luv2drive]

I forgot to ask, are we looking to win on hard difficulty only? I would also say there is no requirement to get the CRB. Just win the race. Be as dirty as you want.

I agree with both - hard diff. and CRB doesn't matter

 

[Old_Richard]

I forgot to ask, are we looking to win on hard difficulty only? I would also say there is no requirement to get the CRB. Just win the race. Be as dirty as you want.

Hi... Just thought I'd say that I've not noticed any difference between normal and hard on this one, the AI seems to drive the same to me.. unlike Sardegna where they're a lot faster on hard. Or am I just imagining that?

 

[Tommy_D]

Porsche 904 '64 - 539.83pp
27:37.164 Race Time
2:15.557 Fastest Lap

Phew, that was a close one. No blocking required, but Kokubun was barreling down on me pretty quick on lap 10. I think my only saving grace is that he wore down his tires too much trying to keep up the pace. I tried doing this with Sport hards and a 529pp tune but I couldn't go any faster than a 2:18 lap time so that wasn't going to work. I'm guessing others could do it, though.

Something tells me the no pit strategy cars are going to dominate this challenge.

Edit: I believe this car is under 600pp stock.

 

[Tommy_D]

Hi... Just thought I'd say that I've not noticed any difference between normal and hard on this one, the AI seems to drive the same to me.. unlike Sardegna where they're a lot faster on hard. Or am I just imagining that?

There seems to be a 15-20 second difference in total race time between easy and hard for this race. But I've only tested easy difficulty a few times. I pretty much exclusively play on hard difficulty.

 

[BWM]

Update on the RX500

Got it down to 531.61pp
SM tyres, Manual transmission, Semi-Racing clutch.

Little tip: Rotary need high rpm, you can rev close to 8500rpm for more acceleration

 

[Tommy_D]

Nice. That RX500 is under 600pp stock, right?

 

[BWM]

Nice. That RX500 is under 600pp stock, right?

yes

 

[rheinaoi]

This is amazing buddy!!!

I have been testing with Sports mediums and by the sound of it, they won't work. I was also getting 2.14 compared to your 2.11.

Your current time is fast enough to win on hard!
I am going to adopt your strategy of using Racing tires, I was previously scared of using them in the rain (I'm such a coward)

Top speed is always an issue with this car. I think it's due to how un aerodynamic it is and eventually wind resistance becomes too much.

Still struggling to get over the fact that you pulled a 2.11 in a sambababus

It's likely we started with the same strategy for the Sambabus. I suspected that the bus wouldn't have enough fuel for a no-stop because of how the A.I. was using it in the Human Comedy Historic race. So I aimed for a 1-stop brute force build on Sports Mediums. I was barely getting into the 2:15s when I gave up.

Once I got the suspension to a workable state, the low weight of the bus and the unreal grip of the Racing Hards came out. I did another couple runs and got into the high 2:10s. No much better on the overall time though. I'd like to fiddle with it a bit more.

Have I mentioned that your 600pp Miata is magical to drive? Seriously thanks for sharing that tune.

 

[rheinaoi]

The Mazda Atenza Sedan survives the Below 600pp Challenge. No-stop Strategy. Sports Hards.

I was running a bunch of cars at ~529pp, but were all frustrating. Both too slow on the straights and not fast enough to take full advantage of the high speed corners. I even tried the Celica Rally Car on Comfort Softs and Comfort Mediums in hopes of getting a better top speed, but tire wear and corner speeds were so terrible for my driving that it wasn't viable. I wanted to eat my controller and burn an effigy of the A.I. drivers.

On one of my many 2nd place finishes, I got a Clean Race Bonus

@Tommy_D I agree on the no-stop cars being the winning strategy here. Since a lot of cars are heavily restricted, it transforms many more into no-stop machines. The remaining deciding factors are lightness / acceleration and how little aero drag that car produces. I suspect tuning for higher torque and close gearing will be more PP efficient at this level.

This was one of the more frustrating things I've done in GT7. I want to get back on board the Struggle Sambabus now.

RESULTS:

PP Level
534.93pp

Race Time
27:38.158

Best Lap:
2:16.152

 

[Tommy_D]

The Mazda Atenza Sedan survives the Below 600pp Challenge. No-stop Strategy. Sports Hards.

I was running a bunch of cars at ~529pp, but were all frustrating. Both too slow on the straights and not fast enough to take full advantage of the high speed corners. I even tried the Celica Rally Car on Comfort Softs and Comfort Mediums in hopes of getting a better top speed, but tire wear and corner speeds were so terrible for my driving that it wasn't viable. I wanted to eat my controller and burn an effigy of the A.I. drivers.

On one of my many 2nd place finishes, I got a Clean Race Bonus

@Tommy_D I agree on the no-stop cars being the winning strategy here. Since a lot of cars are heavily restricted, it transforms many more into no-stop machines. The remaining deciding factors are lightness / acceleration and how little aero drag that car produces. I suspect tuning for higher torque and close gearing will be more PP efficient at this level.

This was one of the more frustrating things I've done in GT7. I want to get back on board the Struggle Sambabus now.

RESULTS:

PP Level
534.93pp

Race Time
27:38.158

Best Lap:
2:16.152

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Nice job. I understand your frustration. I'm trying a Stratos tune at 528.99 on Comfort softs. It feels like you need pin point precision on all your braking and turn in areas so you don't deviate off the dry line. Oh yeah, don't forget to keep as much corner speed as possible. After about 10 tries I gave up.

Unfortunately, I don't have time to give this challenge a shot tonight. I just put in 125 miles on the TT Challenge at Red Bull Ring trying to knock 1 tenth of a second off my best time to get gold. Finally got it with a good margin, so 2M credits come my way tomorrow. Of course I could have just grinded Tokyo 4 times in the same amount of time, but whatever.

I'll get back on this tomorrow night and see if I can get that Stratos tune to work. Of course the DP-100 can be set to 525pp and it would likely win. I still haven't given it a real run though.

 

[Darrenersmit]

Go hard or go home we say. Just started getting into this race. Been on hard difficulty since day one

 

[Old_Richard]

There seems to be a 15-20 second difference in total race time between easy and hard for this race. But I've only tested easy difficulty a few

I probably just think this one is easy on hard difficulty because I always wallride the first turn

 

[Tommy_D]

I probably just think this one is easy on hard difficulty because I always wallride the first turn

Well, cheating does make things easier...

 

[SnakeEyes427]

A quick test run
RX500 @ 543.49pp
Basically stock only with SS and Manual transmission

Not a fan of unnecessary detuning, not going to play with ballast to decrease pp.

Pro tip guys, Ballast in some cars in the right spot can increase the PP. Also, sometimes putting yourself (in kg) where the driver seat is, can make the car handle much better. Regardless of any PP change. The game uses stock showroom settings for suspension as a base. Manufacturers take the weight of a driver in account when setting the suspension of a car. GT never has. Just try it once. Now, if we could just pick what side as well as how far back. 🤓

 

[Old_Richard]

Well, cheating does make things easier...

Out of interest Tommy, how much time does in add on when you know how to take that turn well? I do do it properly on some of the later laps and it seems to add about 8 seconds a lap for me.... but that's probably because I'm not very good at turn 1

 

[Tommy_D]

Out of interest Tommy, how much time does in add on when you know how to take that turn well? I do do it properly on some of the later laps and it seems to add about 8 seconds a lap for me.... but that's probably because I'm not very good at turn 1

It certainly adds quite a bit of time to the lap having to brake in to T1 and dropping to the low-mid 60mph range vs flying through there at 185 and having the car slow to ~90mph. Is it 8 seconds/lap? Probably depends on the car and it's setup. The engine swapped S13 certainly benefits greatly from wall riding because that car's brakes suck and you cant run proper tires on it without exceeding 600pp.

I'm just messing with you on the "cheating" thing. Drive however you want.