The Xbox One Thread - One X & One SXBOne 

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DDastardly00
So I received my console back from repair yesterday and after reconnecting it, I am getting the same error code.

When I turned it on it hung up at the same Green loading screen with the xbox logo but this time after several minutes I actually made it past and got to the Xbox controller image screen, it got hung up again but eventually I made it to the choose your language and country screens. I thought I was in the clear but then I got to the slightly terrifying "It's Time to Update" screen. There it hung up for over 30 minutes. Eventually I gave up, turned it off by pressing the power button once. It took over 8 minutes to fully shut down, the power light blinked repeatedly the whole time and the controller wouldn't shut off.

I turned it back on at this point, promptly got hung up at the Green Screen of Death again for several minutes and then got the same error code. I was able to replicate the E305 error code several times in a row and I never once made it past the error screen. Since I still had the thumb drive with the Factory reset file lying around, I decide to try it but it did not work.

I called support again, received a new shipping label and it's going back.

When I was repacking the console I noticed a letter from the repair station, it said

"after extensive testing we found nothing wrong with your console, no repairs were made"

Isn't that just cute, maybe they have a magical setup in Texas that allows broken consoles to work? Maybe they just didn't try that hard.

This isn't the first time I've had to resend a supposedly repaired MS console back either. When my launch Xbox 360 console got the RRoD, I sent it in, got it back a month later, plugged it in and got the RRoD instantly.

I've had a bad experience all around with their repair center in Texas.
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Maybe they eat too much red meat there at lunch hour, and not enough greens and fiber!

Sorry, but don't mean to make your situations worse.

That is absolute bollocks... have you tried contacting MS directly? Like speak to a Service Manager perhaps?

At any point, does your console overheat?
 
DDastardly00
So I received my console back from repair yesterday and after reconnecting it, I am getting the same error code.

When I turned it on it hung up at the same Green loading screen with the xbox logo but this time after several minutes I actually made it past and got to the Xbox controller image screen, it got hung up again but eventually I made it to the choose your language and country screens. I thought I was in the clear but then I got to the slightly terrifying "It's Time to Update" screen. There it hung up for over 30 minutes. Eventually I gave up, turned it off by pressing the power button once. It took over 8 minutes to fully shut down, the power light blinked repeatedly the whole time and the controller wouldn't shut off.

I turned it back on at this point, promptly got hung up at the Green Screen of Death again for several minutes and then got the same error code. I was able to replicate the E305 error code several times in a row and I never once made it past the error screen. Since I still had the thumb drive with the Factory reset file lying around, I decide to try it but it did not work.

I called support again, received a new shipping label and it's going back.

When I was repacking the console I noticed a letter from the repair station, it said

"after extensive testing we found nothing wrong with your console, no repairs were made"

Isn't that just cute, maybe they have a magical setup in Texas that allows broken consoles to work? Maybe they just didn't try that hard.

This isn't the first time I've had to resend a supposedly repaired MS console back either. When my launch Xbox 360 console got the RRoD, I sent it in, got it back a month later, plugged it in and got the RRoD instantly.

I've had a bad experience all around with their repair center in Texas.
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WOW I am so sorry to hear that. :mad::ouch:

Now that you have sent your X1 back to MS to be repaired again....I have an option for you that I have used with EVERY console I ever sent back to MS. Seriously do this.

1. Go buy another brand new X1 from local store. Walmart, Meijer, Best Buy or similar store.
2. Use that system until your "repaired" X1 returns.
3. Return your brand new X1 back to walmart, Meijer, Best buy for a 100% full money refund.

I do this EVERY time a console has broken. Every single time. Every store has a 15-30 day no questions ask return policy. Just make sure you find out how many days you have. This way you know how many days you have before you return the new console.
 
Speedster911
Maybe they eat too much red meat there at lunch hour, and not enough greens and fiber!

Sorry, but don't mean to make your situations worse.

That is absolute bollocks... have you tried contacting MS directly? Like speak to a Service Manager perhaps?

At any point, does your console overheat?
Click to expand...

It doesn't overheat, the best I can tell it's a Firmware problem not a hardware problem, though I could be wrong. I've only contacted the service desk and they have been helpful and easy to deal with. It's the service center in Texas that I have concerns with, I was able to replicate the error screen 8 times before I sent it out the first time, that's why I have a hard time believing they plugged it in and it magically worked but I suppose anything is possible, as for the " extensive testing " bit they claimed they performed on the console, I have my doubts there.

CAMAROBOY69
WOW I am so sorry to hear that. :mad::ouch:

Now that you have sent your X1 back to MS to be repaired again....I have an option for you that I have used with EVERY console I ever sent back to MS. Seriously do this.

1. Go buy another brand new X1 from local store. Walmart, Meijer, Best Buy or similar store.
2. Use that system until your "repaired" X1 returns.
3. Return your brand new X1 back to walmart, Meijer, Best buy for a 100% full money refund.

I do this EVERY time a console has broken. Every single time. Every store has a 15-30 day no questions ask return policy. Just make sure you find out how many days you have. This way you know how many days you have before you return the new console.
Click to expand...

That is a clever idea but I'll be happy with my 360 until it gets back, it'll give me a good excuse to finish some old games, plus I never did finish my Skyrim Dragonborn DLC, may as well knock that one out while I'm at it.

Luckily for me Minecraft is still keeping me plenty entertained. I built a huge floating Tower over a lake which I aptly named, Darkwatch. It's constructed of Stone (not cobblestone) has many floors, and awesome fireplace and has a hidden passage to a treasure room, a library book case slides open to reveal the passage, the hidden switch is located down a hall way, I ran a hidden circuit all the way to the switch, concealed it all under the floor, that nothing looks amiss. I also built a full observation deck at the very top of the building which is almost in the clouds. I going to start playing around with building more advanced circuits next.
 
I have some questions about the X1 controller:

* The triggers have starting "squeaking" when I press them, particularly the right one. This is annoying when playing racing games, particularly when the volume isn't too high, and you're slowly powering out of a turn... and your hear your controller squeaking!

* On occasions, it disconnects randomly (only in a gaming section, not menus) and lets me reconnect just a few seconds later without ever having to get up. Is this a bug or a low battery/controller range issue?

* Cockpit steering wheel in FM5 is turned to the left, sometimes all the way, before the race begins. Straightens itself right before the countdown ends. Again, a low battery bug of some sort?

What do I do about the squeaks? WD40? :lol:
 
I have two controllers and neither squeak, not sure how to eliminate but I wouldn't suggest wd40.

On the other hand, both controllers do randomly disconnect for a few seconds. Annoying for obvious reasons. I'm guessing its on MS side but who knows, anyone know the freq the controllers use? Maybe interference with other wireless devices?
 
Oso Actual
I have two controllers and neither squeak, not sure how to eliminate but I wouldn't suggest wd40.

On the other hand, both controllers do randomly disconnect for a few seconds. Annoying for obvious reasons. I'm guessing its on MS side but who knows, anyone know the freq the controllers use? Maybe interference with other wireless devices?
Click to expand...

Well, I got no wireless devices in my house except for my phone which is usually not in my pocket but a couple of feet away at least. Wierd though, nothing like this ever happened on the X360 controller.

I imagine the squeaky sounds started because of the dust and humidity, particularly the humidity, though I keep the AC on when playing. Neither do I leave the door open so as to cause an undesirable effect on electronic equipment: sudden cool to warm temperatures.

The WD40 remark was a sarcastic one. ;)

The random disconnections are annoying. Just keep your battery close to fully charged at all times. Or get a USB wire to eliminate the disconnections altogether.

Anyhow, the X1's controller though slightly more comfortable, isn't as robust or well built as the X360, that's for sure. And the fact that rumble triggers are not activated by default in all games is a bit of a stinker.
 
Odd with the disconnects, you seem to have the worst luck this gen. I have a minor(and I mean minor. its not even loud enough to be heard by someone with no volulme, unless your face is up against it.) Do you have sweaty palms? :lol: Only thing I can think of is did you make sure your batteries are securely in place? Sometimes it seems like it, only for me to find out that it wasn't pressed in all the way. Cant say I've encountered this problem yet, though.

I'm confused as what you mean about the feedback in the triggers though. There are games that would benefit from it, and some that wont. You wont need it in a shooter as the left trigger only usually aims so that would be weird for a vibration caused by aiming. Racing games seem to be the only ones to benefit from it I would say.
 
Oso Actual
I have two controllers and neither squeak, not sure how to eliminate but I wouldn't suggest wd40.

On the other hand, both controllers do randomly disconnect for a few seconds. Annoying for obvious reasons. I'm guessing its on MS side but who knows, anyone know the freq the controllers use? Maybe interference with other wireless devices?
Click to expand...
Do not use WD 40! Use Move It or anything else.
 
ImaRobot
Odd with the disconnects, you seem to have the worst luck this gen. I have a minor(and I mean minor. its not even loud enough to be heard by someone with no volulme, unless your face is up against it.) Do you have sweaty palms? :lol: Only thing I can think of is did you make sure your batteries are securely in place? Sometimes it seems like it, only for me to find out that it wasn't pressed in all the way. Cant say I've encountered this problem yet, though.

I'm confused as what you mean about the feedback in the triggers though. There are games that would benefit from it, and some that wont. You wont need it in a shooter as the left trigger only usually aims so that would be weird for a vibration caused by aiming. Racing games seem to be the only ones to benefit from it I would say.
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How about the right trigger as you shoot your gun or like FM5, default trigger rumble in ALL racing games? Would that be wierd too?

killerjimbag
Do not use WD 40! Use Move It or anything else.
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The thought of pouring oil into the controller's trigger didn't even cross my mind. I live in a dusty and humid region so that could explain it, though I've never had any such issue with X360 controllers in a decade.

How about dabbing a cotton ball in olive oil and pouring a drop or two over the trigger? It really IS annoying when I want to press or release it while the volume's low.

My common sense tells me to just let it be.

It's too bad this site doesn't just let you plain upload photos or vids the old fashioned way, otherwise I would have recorded a quick clip and posted here.

Edit: So the June update it out. Anybody know what it updates/improves?
 
Speedster911
How about the right trigger as you shoot your gun or like FM5, default trigger rumble in ALL racing games? Would that be wierd too?



The thought of pouring oil into the controller's trigger didn't even cross my mind. I live in a dusty and humid region so that could explain it, though I've never had any such issue with X360 controllers in a decade.

How about dabbing a cotton ball in olive oil and pouring a drop or two over the trigger? It really IS annoying when I want to press or release it while the volume's low.

My common sense tells me to just let it be.

It's too bad this site doesn't just let you plain upload photos or vids the old fashioned way, otherwise I would have recorded a quick clip and posted here.

Edit: So the June update it out. Anybody know what it updates/improves?
Click to expand...
You know, I didn't think of that. Does it not do that already? I honestly can't recall.

As for the update, there is a section on the Xbox One that explains what the new updates do. I believe it's called "What's New" or something along those lines.
 
ImaRobot
You know, I didn't think of that. Does it not do that already? I honestly can't recall.

As for the update, there is a section on the Xbox One that explains what the new updates do. I believe it's called "What's New" or something along those lines.
Click to expand...

Of the 6 games I own: FM5, Hor 2, Hor 2 F&F, COD AW, PCARS, BH Hardline, FM5 is the only game where the triggers rumble with braking and acceleration depending on how hard you're doing either.

The way trigger rumble works in PCARS struck me as odd: when you brake hard or your car goes off the track, both triggers rumble. :confused: There's no rumble at all while accelerating or spinning your wheels.

Yeah, I read up on the update details. Nothing special. Still no DTS audio support in MKV files. :grumpy:
 
I don't seem to be playing on the X1 very much. Just catching up on the Forza 5 events I've yet to complete. Also douing the bonus runs on Horizon 2. Just got the free cars from the new post Season Pass DLC. Nice to see the (Vauxhall) Lotus Carlton as the free car.

I also have GTAV, Sunset Overdrive and Destiny, but seem to prefer playing on the PS4.

I can't see myself pre-ordering Forza 6 as the invalidated lap criteria seems far too restrictive and even on the easiest opponent settings, the elastic banding can be ridiculous. Don't get me started on the Top Gear and other "special" events.

At least with the X1 I can buy an external Hard Disk for extra space (Sony ought really consider that for the PS4), so I may get more future releases on the X1.
 
RogsR34UK
I don't seem to be playing on the X1 very much. Just catching up on the Forza 5 events I've yet to complete. Also douing the bonus runs on Horizon 2. Just got the free cars from the new post Season Pass DLC. Nice to see the (Vauxhall) Lotus Carlton as the free car.

I also have GTAV, Sunset Overdrive and Destiny, but seem to prefer playing on the PS4.

I can't see myself pre-ordering Forza 6 as the invalidated lap criteria seems far too restrictive and even on the easiest opponent settings, the elastic banding can be ridiculous. Don't get me started on the Top Gear and other "special" events.

At least with the X1 I can buy an external Hard Disk for extra space (Sony ought really consider that for the PS4), so I may get more future releases on the X1.
Click to expand...


Playing on the hardest setting on FM5, I've never seen any rubber banding in the AI. In fact, once you get past the rolling blockade that The AI seems to be, the distance between you and them just gets larger at a more rapid pace. Only times I noticed them rapidly gain any distance to me is when I myself mess up.

I'm also at a loss with you mentioning invalidated laps. The only one that annoys me is the drafting one, but that makes sense. Unless your talking about the lack of them?
 
It's basically laps being invalidated when another car is near you (which includes drafting). That without contact.

On the easy setting, I would expect to go off into the distance, but there is someone on my Friends List tends to win every race when I've played against him online and his Avatar has as tendency to drive off into the distance, even on easy!
 
I'm playing FM5 on the second-last hardest setting, and I've gotta say you really have to focus and practice good race craft to end up in the top 3. *Seeing how the game doesn't have a qualifying system*

AI's noticeably better than FM4 though they still brake at odd points for no reason and you can nail them there. This definitely should be fixed: AI needs to be as fast around corners as they are on straights.

In fact, I prefer racing the AI than multiplayer. You don't find too many people who practice good precision driving and race rules. Unless you have your own party and invite people who only drive properly. Not possible all the time.

Update on squeaky trigger: for anyone's who's interested, the olive oil trick worked, no squeaks at all. However, I missed the first couple of drops and they just ended up trickling down either side of the bumper button/trigger. Poured a good amount of oil in an eye-drop bottle and squeezed the good juice in the spring/trigger housing *it did not go completely silent after a few drops*

Well..... now I got oil oozing out of the x, y, a, b and start button along with one of the handles.

Mehh... I clean it every now and then. Anyhow, just wanted to share this with you lot. Squeak-free gameplay at low volume! ;D
 
Speedster911
Update on squeaky trigger: for anyone's who's interested, the olive oil trick worked, no squeaks at all. However, I missed the first couple of drops and they just ended up trickling down either side of the bumper button/trigger. Poured a good amount of oil in an eye-drop bottle and squeezed the good juice in the spring/trigger housing *it did not go completely silent after a few drops*

Well... now I got oil oozing out of the x, y, a, b and start button along with one of the handles

Mehh... I clean it every now and then. Anyhow, just wanted to share this with you lot. Squeak-free gameplay at low volume! ;D
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:lol::lol::lol: That's epic! :lol::lol::lol:
 
RogsR34UK
It's basically laps being invalidated when another car is near you (which includes drafting). That without contact.
Click to expand...
The only time I've had a lap invalidated with no contact was from drafting. That's only fair though, as that would produce unfair lap times if it was allowed. Still, you shouldn't be worrying about validated lap times from a career race, that should be left to Rivals and Hot Lapping in general.

On the easy setting, I would expect to go off into the distance, but there is someone on my Friends List tends to win every race when I've played against him online and his Avatar has as tendency to drive off into the distance, even on easy!
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That is rubber banding, how? I'm not so sure you're thinking about the right term here.
 
Brand new X1 console with 1TB hd. Also comes with a new design controller that allows to update "wireless over the air". Plus new, better designed bumpers. Also a 3.5mm headset jack.
New controller also now comes camo silver black and can be purchased separately.
http://www.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/consoles/1tb-halo-master-chief-collection





XboxOne_WirelessController_CovertForces-582x377.png

I will probably buy one of those "Covert Forces" camo controllers for sure.
 
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So I fired up the X1 today after a few days I guess and tried to pop in the PCARS disc and the disc drive's trap doors wouldn't budge... and with good reason!

Had had power outages a few days back and the F5 disc was left inside! I hope I haven't "upset" the console or damaged anything in the process. I thought PCARS took a long time to load 9after title screen) after this little episode, but then again, doesn't it always? Don't remember, I've only played it a few times. Besides, the system goes right to the HDD as soon as the game gets verified right? I imagine that takes a few seconds, as opposed to the X360 which kept the disc spinning for a minute or two.

I'm just getting paranoid here... ! :crazy:
 

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