Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
JimBowL_
@jirin_cz I'm sorry man. Just got curious, of why only 1 or 2 user having this issue.

My bad, hope you resolve this horrible issue. Are you going to get another replacement? Since you got 1 replaced already.
Click to expand...

No problem, man. I will wait a week if these clunks will disappear and if not then I will probably replace it with new one.
 
jirin_cz
Thanks for testing. It means you have these clunks only in Windows desktop and not in game itself?
Click to expand...
Wheel unpowered: Spins without any clunks
Wheel in windows desktop: Only clunks when moving offcenter against the centering spring. Doesn't clunk when turning back and forwards further
Wheel in game: Some clunks happen, thinking through probably at times when turning the wheel after a long straight. I'm pretty sure the clunks are related to how the belt travels around center.

With my T500 I ended up leaving it rotated offcenter when unpowered, because if you leave it long in one spot (say a couple of days) the belt gets a little "dent" at that point which you feel for a few minutes when driving. I have been leaving my T300 centered when powered off because it doesn't seem to get that "dent" feel, however I'm wondering if the clunks are an equivalent "belt memory" thing. It might be worth leaving the wheel rotated completely to one end-stop while not in use, see if the clunks then only form at that extreme end of the belt.
 
Adrenaline
Has anyone who has placed their order, gotten a shipping date?
I went through Frys and it was initially expected to arrive Monday the 20th.
If the Amazon orders are getting there earlier, I'd like to know so that I can cancel my Frys order and place one with Amazon.
Thanks.
Click to expand...

I preordered through Amazon and the estimated delivery date is Tuesday, Oct 21.
 
skazz
Wheel unpowered: Spins without any clunks
Wheel in windows desktop: Only clunks when moving offcenter against the centering spring. Doesn't clunk when turning back and forwards further
Wheel in game: Some clunks happen, thinking through probably at times when turning the wheel after a long straight. I'm pretty sure the clunks are related to how the belt travels around center.

With my T500 I ended up leaving it rotated offcenter when unpowered, because if you leave it long in one spot (say a couple of days) the belt gets a little "dent" at that point which you feel for a few minutes when driving. I have been leaving my T300 centered when powered off because it doesn't seem to get that "dent" feel, however I'm wondering if the clunks are an equivalent "belt memory" thing. It might be worth leaving the wheel rotated completely to one end-stop while not in use, see if the clunks then only form at that extreme end of the belt.
Click to expand...

Mine:

1) Wheel unpowered: same as yours
2) Wheel in windows desktop: same as yours
3) Wheel in Windows game/PS4 menu/PS4 game: same as point no. 2

Still waiting for reply from Thrustmaster support. I will let you know the results.
 
For those of you that have mentioned a clunk when turning the wheel rim while under load. Follow these steps and rest assured this will fix your problem. This applies to the TX or T300.
A quick and easy way to diagnose the problem is to turn the rim all the way left to come in contact with the bumpstop ( end of wheel rotation ). Then lightly force the rim a bit further.
Now turn the rim to the right all the way to approach the bumpstop but approach the bumpstop slowly without forcing it. Once you can feel that the rim has come in contact with the bumpstop - Apply a bit of force and you will probably notice the CLUNK that you have mentioned.
If the result is the CLUNK then remove the rim from the base and

1 - check to be sure that the four Phillips head screws that hold the quick release adaptor to the base are tight as this can cause the clunk effect. If they are ok then
2 - the problem is coming from a bit of play between the four wheel rim quick release tabs ( female ) and the four tabs (male) of the quick release adaptor hub.
To resolve this you will need a way to tighten up the excess clearance between the two.
A simple way would be to apply a small piece of electric tape or some other material to the (female) tab area of the wheel rim. You will need to apply it to the four inside corners so that the play will be eliminated from the quick release hub.
Then reinstall the rim and it should be fixed

UPDATE.
I forgot to mention that I have seen some wheels that use hexagon head screws instead of Phillips head.
whichever screw is used to secure the quick release hub to the base you could think that the screws are tight if attempting to tighten but in reality they need to be tightened a bit more to secure the hub properly. So go ahead and tighten each screw about a 1/8 turn more.
So far in the few cases I have seen the two steps mentioned above has fixed this issue.

Also I have noticed that sometimes when adding the GTE rim - the locking screw on the quick release collar does not end up in a good position and when tightening the screw it ends up slightly loosening the collar - if this is the case a simple fix is to drill another hole about 3-5 degrees to the clockwise direction when looking at the wheel from the front then reinsert the screw into this new hole.

Note - these issue`s do not effect the wheel`s functionality or life span in any way but it can be considered a nuisance to some
 
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novadave
For those of you that have mentioned a clunk when turning the wheel rim while under load. Follow these steps and rest assured this will fix your problem. This applies to the TX or T300.
Click to expand...
Very good tips. I never even looked at the screws because everything feels solid, but will have a look later on. If my PS rim tolerance is the problem I'll also check whether my old GTE rim fits differently.
 
novadave
For those of you that have mentioned a clunk when turning the wheel rim while under load. Follow these steps and rest assured this will fix your problem. This applies to the TX or T300.
A quick and easy way to diagnose the problem is to turn the rim all the way left to come in contact with the bumpstop ( end of wheel rotation ). Then lightly force the rim a bit further.
Now turn the rim to the right all the way to approach the bumpstop but approach the bumpstop slowly without forcing it. Once you can feel that the rim has come in contact with the bumpstop - Apply a bit of force and you will probably notice the CLUNK that you have mentioned.
If the result is the CLUNK then remove the rim from the base and

1 - check to be sure that the four Phillips head screws that hold the quick release adaptor to the base are tight as this can cause the clunk effect. If they are ok then
2 - the problem is coming from a bit of play between the four wheel rim quick release tabs ( female ) and the four tabs (male) of the quick release adaptor hub.
To resolve this you will need a way to tighten up the excess clearance between the two.
A simple way would be to apply a small piece of electric tape or some other material to the (female) tab area of the wheel rim. You will need to apply it to the four inside corners so that the play will be eliminated from the quick release hub.
Then reinstall the rim and it should be fixed
Click to expand...

Wow! Thanks a lot for this tip. I will try it when I'll get back home tomorrow.

For my case it could be only your option no. 1 as it clunks also when the rim is down and when rotate with the adaptor hub (with no Wheel atttached).
 
novadave
For those of you that have mentioned a clunk when turning the wheel rim while under load. Follow these steps and rest assured this will fix your problem. This applies to the TX or T300.
A quick and easy way to diagnose the problem is to turn the rim all the way left to come in contact with the bumpstop ( end of wheel rotation ). Then lightly force the rim a bit further.
Now turn the rim to the right all the way to approach the bumpstop but approach the bumpstop slowly without forcing it. Once you can feel that the rim has come in contact with the bumpstop - Apply a bit of force and you will probably notice the CLUNK that you have mentioned.
If the result is the CLUNK then remove the rim from the base and

1 - check to be sure that the four Phillips head screws that hold the quick release adaptor to the base are tight as this can cause the clunk effect. If they are ok then
2 - the problem is coming from a bit of play between the four wheel rim quick release tabs ( female ) and the four tabs (male) of the quick release adaptor hub.
To resolve this you will need a way to tighten up the excess clearance between the two.
A simple way would be to apply a small piece of electric tape or some other material to the (female) tab area of the wheel rim. You will need to apply it to the four inside corners so that the play will be eliminated from the quick release hub.
Then reinstall the rim and it should be fixed
Click to expand...

Can you provide some pictures with the steps? It sure would go a long ways in case others have the same issue.

Jerome
 
Can you provide some pictures with the steps? It sure would go a long ways in case others have the same issue.
Jerome.

I would if I was at home but I am in Europe at the moment.
updated post above !!
 
Finally got answer from Thrustmaster:

"we will ask you to send the wheel base to our office for a routine check from our technicians in order too see if it needs some adjusting"

First I will try Novadave advice.
 
novadave
Can you provide some pictures with the steps? It sure would go a long ways in case others have the same issue.
Jerome.

I would if I was at home but I am in Europe at the moment.
updated post above !!
Click to expand...

Whenever you get a chance is fine. The wheel isn't even out in the US yet.


Jerome
 
novadave
For those of you that have mentioned a clunk when turning the wheel rim while under load. Follow these steps and rest assured this will fix your problem. This applies to the TX or T300.
A quick and easy way to diagnose the problem is to turn the rim all the way left to come in contact with the bumpstop ( end of wheel rotation ). Then lightly force the rim a bit further.
Now turn the rim to the right all the way to approach the bumpstop but approach the bumpstop slowly without forcing it. Once you can feel that the rim has come in contact with the bumpstop - Apply a bit of force and you will probably notice the CLUNK that you have mentioned.
If the result is the CLUNK then remove the rim from the base and

1 - check to be sure that the four Phillips head screws that hold the quick release adaptor to the base are tight as this can cause the clunk effect. If they are ok then
2 - the problem is coming from a bit of play between the four wheel rim quick release tabs ( female ) and the four tabs (male) of the quick release adaptor hub.
To resolve this you will need a way to tighten up the excess clearance between the two.
A simple way would be to apply a small piece of electric tape or some other material to the (female) tab area of the wheel rim. You will need to apply it to the four inside corners so that the play will be eliminated from the quick release hub.
Then reinstall the rim and it should be fixed

UPDATE.
I forgot to mention that I have seen some wheels that use hexagon head screws instead of Phillips head.
whichever screw is used to secure the quick release hub to the base you could think that the screws are tight if attempting to tighten but in reality they need to be tightened a bit more to secure the hub properly. So go ahead and tighten each screw about a 1/8 turn more.
So far in the few cases I have seen the two steps mentioned above has fixed this issue.

Also I have noticed that sometimes when adding the GTE rim - the locking screw on the quick release collar does not end up in a good position and when tightening the screw it ends up slightly loosening the collar - if this is the case a simple fix is to drill another hole about 3-5 degrees to the clockwise direction when looking at the wheel from the front then reinsert the screw into this new hole.

Note - these issue`s do not effect the wheel`s functionality or life span in any way but it can be considered a nuisance to some
Click to expand...

In my case the screw in the quick release collar also in not in the right position. But when you tighten it the will make a new hole, right? Slightly from its ideal position of course
 
novadave
For those of you that have mentioned a clunk when turning the wheel rim while under load. Follow these steps and rest assured this will fix your problem. This applies to the TX or T300.
A quick and easy way to diagnose the problem is to turn the rim all the way left to come in contact with the bumpstop ( end of wheel rotation ). Then lightly force the rim a bit further.
<..>
UPDATE.
I forgot to mention that I have seen some wheels that use hexagon head screws instead of Phillips head.
<..>
Note - these issue`s do not effect the wheel`s functionality or life span in any way but it can be considered a nuisance to some
Click to expand...
Let me start by saying "crap, never act upon the OCD of others, a blemish once uncovered can't be ignored"....

What I'm feeling is: When there is centering force acting upon the wheel and I turn the wheel offcenter to around 40 degrees, it will give a clunk. If I rotate back to center and then the same direction again, no clunk. If I return to center and then the other direction it will clunk. This happens in Windows but also in game if you drive along and weave at sufficient speed to have enough centering force. So you could state that it's something in the shaft or the belt mechanism which reseats itself fractionally the first time you turn the wheel offcenter in a particular direction.

Same result with both the stock T300RS and GTE rims. I tightened the hexagonal hub screws, no improvement.

Edit: I applied one layer of not particularly thick tape, didn't make any difference. Two layers of tape didn't fit, too tight. I'm more and more convinced the sound is coming from different spots in the wheelbase when turning left and right, so it's some kind of belt mechanism thing.

And now I'm going to ignore it and get back to iRacing :)
 
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Thanks for the tip, novadave.

But I have my doubts about it. I already checked the 4 screws right after I got the wheel, but they are very tight. I will try the tape trick tomorrow, but I think the problem is inside the base, because if it would be a generel mechanical issue, the clunk would appear in windows too. But it doesn't, although the wheel is quite heavy (centering force) under windows.

My guess, it is some "software-producing-slight-center-deadzone-issue=clunk", which only occures in racing games (tested with AC and pcars).
 
skazz
Let me start by saying "crap, never act upon the OCD of others, a blemish once uncovered can't be ignored"....

What I'm feeling is: When there is centering force acting upon the wheel and I turn the wheel offcenter to around 40 degrees, it will give a clunk. If I rotate back to center and then the same direction again, no clunk. If I return to center and then the other direction it will clunk. This happens in Windows but also in game if you drive along and weave at sufficient speed to have enough centering force. So you could state that it's something in the shaft or the belt mechanism which reseats itself fractionally the first time you turn the wheel offcenter in a particular direction.

Same result with both the stock T300RS and GTE rims. I tightened the hexagonal hub screws, no improvement.

Edit: I applied one layer of not particularly thick tape, didn't make any difference. Two layers of tape didn't fit, too tight. I'm more and more convinced the sound is coming from different spots in the wheelbase when turning left and right, so it's some kind of belt mechanism thing.

And now I'm going to ignore it and get back to iRacing :)
Click to expand...

The symptoms you mention relate directly to what I have seen so far on some wheels and can be verified also just by turning up to the bumpstops without any power although in your case it could be something entirely different.
 
WeamDreaver
Thanks for the tip, novadave.

But I have my doubts about it. I already checked the 4 screws right after I got the wheel, but they are very tight. I will try the tape trick tomorrow, but I think the problem is inside the base, because if it would be a generel mechanical issue, the clunk would appear in windows too. But it doesn't, although the wheel is quite heavy (centering force) under windows.

My guess, it is some "software-producing-slight-center-deadzone-issue=clunk", which only occures in racing games (tested with AC and pcars).
Click to expand...

The next time I get one apart I will see if I can find any other way to reproduce the symptoms but so far what I had diagnosed seems to eliminate the problem
 
ThmsNeth
I have ordered the CPX Adapter from Basherboards. Thrustmaster T300rs for Playstation 4.

I am looking at the Fanatec website pedal section.

Which pedals are the best option to get ClubSport Pedals V2 EU or CSR Elite Pedals EU? What are your opinions?

http://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/pedals
Click to expand...

I would say go for the Clubsport Pedals if you can afford it but the shock that comes with it is not exactly up to par. It is more of a gimmick than anything else.
 
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novadave
The symptoms you mention relate directly to what I have seen so far on some wheels and can be verified also just by turning up to the bumpstops without any power although in your case it could be something entirely different.
Click to expand...
I can't make it clunk by turning up to the bumpstops without any power and pushing even moderately hard.... And my quick release hex bolts are nice and tight, that's not it :)

I'm just going to continue using it, ignore the occasional clunk. If it gets worse then the warranty will sort things... I have a couple of reserve wheels to use in the meantime in that case :boggled:
 
ThmsNeth
I have ordered the CPX Adapter from Basherboards. Thrustmaster T300rs for Playstation 4.

I am looking at the Fanatec website pedal section.

Which pedals are the best option to get ClubSport Pedals V2 EU or CSR Elite Pedals EU? What are your opinions?

http://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/pedals...net&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet
Click to expand...

I haven't ever used the ClubSport Pedals, just the Elites. The Elite pedals are fantastic pedals, $150 for load cell brake pedals with a clutch is a great deal.

I too got the CPX adapter for my T300RS, I love my Elites, so much so, that I recently bought another set of them just to have spares. I've owned my Elites for 3 years this winter, I had one issue where the gas pedal wouldn't register full throttle, but Fanatec fixed that for me and the load cell unit went out on me after warranty, but @eKretz fixed that for me 👍

Even with those two minor incidents, upgrading to CSP for $250 never once crossed my mind.


Jerome
 
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diesel97
You got me nervous, just checked
Oct, 21 delivery date
Ordered Oct, 10
Prime
Sorry about your E.T.A
Click to expand...

Same exact thing here. Pre-ordered on October 10th, estimated delivery date is October 21st by 2000 hours. Amazon Prime member here as well.
 
Ya I'm Prime as well and also ordered on the 10th. Called them up to make sure and they said expected delivery is between October 17th-23rd. I guess just a computer issue.
 
Jump_Ace
I haven't ever used the ClubSport Pedals, just the Elites. The Elite pedals are fantastic pedals, $150 for load cell brake pedals with a clutch is a great deal.

I too got the CPX adapter for my T300RS, I love my Elites, so much so, that I recently bought another set of them just to have spares. I've owned my Elites for 3 years this winter, I had one issue where the gas pedal wouldn't register full throttle, but Fanatec fixed that for me and the load cell unit went out on me after warranty, but @eKretz fixed that for me 👍

Even with those two minor incidents, upgrading to CSP for $250 never once crossed my mind.


Jerome
Click to expand...

I agree and the Elites are a LOT more reliable.
 
TJisA1337NOOB
Well now my Amazon pre-order doesn't have a delivery date with it. It just changed.:odd:
Click to expand...

diesel97
You got me nervous, just checked
Oct, 21 delivery date
Ordered Oct, 10
Prime
Sorry about your E.T.A
Click to expand...

peobryant
Same exact thing here. Pre-ordered on October 10th, estimated delivery date is October 21st by 2000 hours. Amazon Prime member here as well.
Click to expand...

TJisA1337NOOB
Ya I'm Prime as well and also ordered on the 10th. Called them up to make sure and they said expected delivery is between October 17th-23rd. I guess just a computer issue.
Click to expand...

Blkout
I agree and the Elites are a LOT more reliable.
Click to expand...

WhiteLight64
Tuesday 10/21 per Amazon.
Click to expand...
Still plenty of time before that new game that starts with the P arrives :lol:! Will you guys be using this on PS4 or just mostly PS3/PC ?
 
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