Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

[skazz]

I know it's not that easy to find both yet, but after spending some time with the T300 using GTE and PS rims here is my feedback for people who want to choose between T300RS (PS rim) and T300GTE:


- The PS rim offers good Playstation button layout. Definitely handy for use with the Playstation, recommended choice for PS3/PS4 as primary platform.
- If you're primarily using the T300 with the PC, however, then PS button layout is irrelevant. In that case, the buttons on the GTE rim have a more useful general purpose layout and they have a nicer click to them. I would recommend the T300GTE to people primarily wanting it for PC use.

My GTE rim (bought last year) weighs around 20-30 grams more than my PS rim (the plastic area behind the rim is slightly wider). But I can't feel any differences in the shape or feel of the rubber coated 28cm diameter circular rim, the paddles or FFB between the two.

 

[BLACK86]

Got my new t300 base, works great. No clunks. The only difference is the fan comes on much much quicker than my last t300 did before it went faulty. I'm happy with that, infact I'd prefer it to be on all the time, the noise isn't loud enough to hear while gaming anyway.

No sign of version numbers on either base too

 

[Blkout]

Still plenty of time before that new game that starts with the P arrives ! Will you guys be using this on PS4 or just mostly PS3/PC ?

I have a high end PC, as well as PS4 and XB1, when a game is available on all platforms, I go with the PC version first. If its not available on PC, the PS4 likely gets my purchase. Nothing against the XB1, I still prefer the controller and Xbox LIVE over the PS4's controller and PSN but the PS4 is slightly more powerful and I'm a graphics whore, but that's why I also go with the PC version first. LOL.

 

[diesel97]

Still plenty of time before that new game that starts with the P arrives ! Will you guys be using this on PS4 or just mostly PS3/PC ?

Ps3 rite now, Ps4 soon

 

[diesel97]

I know it's not that easy to find both yet, but after spending some time with the T300 using GTE and PS rims here is my feedback for people who want to choose between T300RS (PS rim) and T300GTE:


- The PS rim offers good Playstation button layout. Definitely handy for use with the Playstation, recommended choice for PS3/PS4 as primary platform.
- If you're primarily using the T300 with the PC, however, then PS button layout is irrelevant. In that case, the buttons on the GTE rim have a more useful general purpose layout and they have a nicer click to them. I would recommend the T300GTE to people primarily wanting it for PC use.

My GTE rim (bought last year) weighs around 20-30 grams more than my PS rim (the plastic area behind the rim is slightly wider). But I can't feel any differences in the shape or feel of the rubber coated 28cm diameter circular rim, the paddles or FFB between the two.

The t300rs is the only version that I see in the U.S. right now, for me that works fine
I know you can buy rims separate

 

[Khyber]

there is a guy who makes stickers for the buttons for xbox and ps for the gte rim. you can find it in the thrustmaster section on the isr forums. may having something here some where too...so if you get the gte rim you can still have ps buttons.

i bought some from him for the xbox for the gte rim. you'll see my pic in the thread

http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/15261-thrustmaster-ferrari-gte-f458-wheel-vinyl-panel-decals/

 

[Blue028]

Regaurding the clunks,
I had them pretty servearly on my t500 after a bit of use and when I pulled it apart I found that the main pulley on the steering shaft had a lot of slop in it, being plastic I was worried about it wearing further if I didn't do anything. I tightened the tolerance by adding small pieces of aluminium from a soda can untill the pulley was very firmly pressed on , no more slop. When I got my first TX wheel it was doa, so I decieded to have a peek in side. It is constructed almost Identical to the t500, but I noticed added screws to the main shaft pulley to lock it in place with no movement. if you still have clunking noises after the previouse sugestions here and are game enough to disassemble their wheel it may be worth checking those screws (i assume the t300 will be the same as the TX) and make sure they are nice and tight too.

 

[skazz]

if you still have clunking noises after the previouse sugestions here and are game enough to disassemble their wheel it may be worth checking those screws (i assume the t300 will be the same as the TX) and make sure they are nice and tight too.

Does this void the warranty?

 

[WeamDreaver]

The clunks...

novedave, I just tested my wheel and I was wrong about one thing. The clunks do happen in windows too. And here is a more specifi description of how the clunk works. When I pull the wheel to one side about 40° the clunk happen. If I then rotate the wheel around the 40° area the clunk doesn't happen again, until I rotate the wheel to the other side to 40° and the clunk happen there. So, the clunk only happens once on either side until it happened on the other side.

I checked the screws again and they are really tight. Then tried the tape trick and it hasn't change anything yet. Maybe I have to apply even more tape?


Edit,
I just applied more tape so that the wheel barely fits on the adapter. I couldn't even fully tighten the big plastic ring (a few degrees off center). But the clunks are still there. Infact, I think the clunks have gotten even more pronounced and louder. I can really feel a mechanical clunk going through the base into the wheel. It feels like I hit some sort of counterweight at a specific degree to each side.

 

[WhiteLight64]

PS3 for GT6.

Edit: Oh yeah crap, I still have to Macguyver a wheel stand..

 

[Blue028]

@skazz as long as you don't touch the screws with red paint on n them or damage anything I think you'll be fine, I had my TX apart and was never even asked once if I had pulled it apart or tampered with it and got a replacement sent out. The thrustmaster wheels are really anying to work on though.

 

[skazz]

The clunks...

novedave, I just tested my wheel and I was wrong about one thing. The clunks do happen in windows too. <..> It feels like I hit some sort of counterweight at a specific degree to each side.

Identical to my experiences. However the exact clunk point depends on the power of centering spring.

Try this: In windows just after boot you will find centering spring is firm so it's 40 degrees before the clunk happens.
If you then enter the Thrustmaster configuration screen and exit it, centering spring is slightly weaker afterwards (still in windows desktop) and the clunks happen around 120 degrees.

I'm very tempted to open things up and check the screws @Blue028 explained, but that won't be before the weekend.

 

[TJisA1337NOOB]

I plan on using the T300 in GT6 on PS3 and Driveclub and Project CARS on PS4. @Soulfresh_ACV

 

[novcze]

If anyone interested, Thrustmaster answered that serial numbers don't have to match on package, wheel, base and rim.

I'm quite happy with T300RS, giving it hell in DC, no clunks from the wheel like those on the video from jirin_cz.
Only one thing, I changed the fan that blows on the motor, stock one have sleeve bearing and vibration spread into the rim and can be felt in hands. I choosed the fan with magnetic bearing Sunon MB60201V1-000U-A99 and vibration is gone.

 

[WeamDreaver]

Can anyone who opened the T300 base please provide a description or even better some pics about the disassembly?

 

[Jump_Ace]

For those of you with the clunky wheels, have any of you tried updating the firmware for your T300RS? I know it sounds like a mechanical issue, but I'd be interested in knowing if the firmware update did anything. I wouldn't be too surprised if TM Support asked someone to do that anyway. Long shot I know, but stranger things have happened.


Jerome

 

[sailworksman]

So, buy the T300 only to take it apart to deal with a quality control issue? No thanks. Plan b I guess.

 

[WeamDreaver]

For those of you with the clunky wheels, have any of you tried updating the firmware for your T300RS? I know it sounds like a mechanical issue, but I'd be interested in knowing if the firmware update did anything. I wouldn't be too surprised if TM Support asked someone to do that anyway. Long shot I know, but stranger things have happened.

Updating firmware was the first thing I did for sure.

 

[Gejabo]

So, buy the T300 only to take it apart to deal with a quality control issue? No thanks. Plan b I guess.

Still no problem here, never did any update.

 

[skazz]

Mine came with firmware 23 which is the latest.

I just took mine apart. Same steps as shown here:
http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/13161-thrustmaster-tx-fan-replacement/

PRO TIP: Don't forget to check that you didn't accidentally switch the switch to PS4 while rotating the wheel base while taking out all the screws. If the wheel only spins a short distance then switches off after you plug it in to your PC, you've got it set to PS4 mode.


I looked round for logical screws to tighten on the inside, but there weren't really any visibly holding the wheel shaft and belt tight. However, there are 4 screws on the underneath (the bigger size screws which are recessed) which basically are holding the whole mechanism down to the metal base plate which holds the mechanism. So those screws can actually be tightened from outside the wheel housing without needing to remove the cover: Just turn it over and check them.

I checked all these screws (and a couple inside holding the front panel to the shaft block) but any tightening possibilities were minimal, perhaps 1/10 of a turn on a couple. Putting everything back together, my clunk noises are however much improved, but not completely gone. So I suspect I should apply more force to the screws.

I'll wait for @WeamDreaver to have a go, see what his results are.

 

[Jump_Ace]

So, buy the T300 only to take it apart to deal with a quality control issue? No thanks. Plan b I guess.

I wouldn't be so quick to give up because A) Europeans are dealing with the rev00 version of the T300RS, so us NA guys will be getting a different batch more than likely because of the delays and B) this is such a small sampling of guys with issues, of course if you have an issue you will talk about it. But for those thousands of others, their units likely work just fine. Darin at Inside Sim Racing hasn't had an issue, as one example with thorough testing.

Updating firmware was the first thing I did for sure.

Ah, okay back to the drawing board I guess. If it were me, I'd just contact TM and get a replacement. Sure I'd have time without my wheel, but if it doesn't work perfect, it's not working IMO.


Jerome

 

[Spitfire77]

I wouldn't be so quick to give up because A) Europeans are dealing with the rev00 version of the T300RS, so us NA guys will be getting a different batch more than likely because of the delays and B) this is such a small sampling of guys with issues, of course if you have an issue you will talk about it. But for those thousands of others, their units likely work just fine. Darin at Inside Sim Racing hasn't had an issue, as one example with thorough testing.



Ah, okay back to the drawing board I guess. If it were me, I'd just contact TM and get a replacement. Sure I'd have time without my wheel, but if it doesn't work perfect, it's not working IMO.


Jerome

I am sure they gave Darin what is called a Golden Unit - basically someone went through it after it came off the line made sure it was perfect in every way, and then they sent it to him. I used to work for a company and we did that before sending units out to demos or for reviewers, or any other high profile customer.

Otherwise yes - just like any product.. the people with bad units make the most noise. People who get what they pay for and it works often never say a thing. I have seen this over and over in the QC/QA/Customer Support world.

 

[skazz]

I forgot to mention: http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/13161-thrustmaster-tx-fan-replacement/ shows the front of the TX with that round cap off. There's no cable visible.

The T300 has a cable stored neatly tied up inside the cap. This is presumably prepared so that you can fit T500-style fixed paddles to it.

 

[Saidur_Ali]

Anyone know on iRacing forum that anyone has data about the T300 wheel with information similar to one in following post?: Link

 

[cjr3559]

So I updated my credit card information on my preorder through Amazon and they also updated my estimated delivery date. December 2nd. What the....?

 

[Jump_Ace]

So I updated my credit card information on my preorder through Amazon and they also updated my estimated delivery date. December 2nd. What the....?

I'd get on Amazon chat to see what's what, if it is delayed until De. 2nd, and you really want the wheel, I'd ask for a refund and order from:

Newegg.com has them for sale at $419.99 plus $10.49 shipping.

OR

Frys.com for $399.99 (no shipping costs given).


Jerome

 

[JimBowL_]

So I updated my credit card information on my preorder through Amazon and they also updated my estimated delivery date. December 2nd. What the....?

I'd get on Amazon chat to see what's what, if it is delayed until De. 2nd, and you really want the wheel, I'd ask for a refund and order from:

Newegg.com has them for sale at $419.99 plus $10.49 shipping.

OR

Frys.com for $399.99 (no shipping costs given).


Jerome

Can someone confirm this? Wow dec. 2nd. Holy s... f...

 

[Parker]

Can someone confirm this? Wow dec. 2nd. Holy s... f...

I just checked my Amazon page and it is still showing a delivery estimate of October 21st.

 

[skazz]

Anyone know on iRacing forum that anyone has data about the T300 wheel with information similar to one in following post?: Link

Be careful with that data, for instance it shows the T500 from a really early firmware running at 120Hz, and it was made before the CSR-E or CSW were released. The T500 wheel has long since been updated to 500Hz via firmware update (v40 iirc), so latency results would need to be redone.

Dave T. (iRacing's FFB guru) has never updated that list on the iRacing forums, although I know from various other posts more recently that he is still busy thinking about latency measurement along with more accurate torque measurement. He just doesn't have any Thrustmaster wheels himself so I have no idea whether he'll provide equivalent information for the TX or T300.

 

[Saidur_Ali]

Be careful with that data, for instance it shows the T500 from a really early firmware running at 120Hz, and it was made before the CSR-E or CSW were released. The T500 wheel has long since been updated to 500Hz via firmware update (v40 iirc), so latency results would need to be redone.

Dave T. (iRacing's FFB guru) has never updated that list on the iRacing forums, although I know from various other posts more recently that he is still busy thinking about latency measurement along with more accurate torque measurement. He just doesn't have any Thrustmaster wheels himself so I have no idea whether he'll provide equivalent information for the TX or T300.

I knew about T500 so was hoping an updated test would have done on it too. Will be interesting to see which is the best Thrustmaster wheel for response and if any new wheel on market beats the G25 and G27.

Is it possible to ask him for test program to try out yourself if possible? I imagine someone else must have helped with the data if he does not have many wheels himself?