Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
peobryant
I just checked my Amazon page and it is still showing a delivery estimate of October 21st.
Click to expand...

Seems like a huge shortage on new Thrustmasters products across the board in North America even Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter and T3PA Wide Pedal Set now says "Sign up to be notified when this item becomes available." which is not a good sign. Even on Newegg, these products are also sold out.

If anyone have any information or updates regarding T300RS availability from Amazon, Newegg or Frys please share here. Even though Newegg/Frys says is available, I doubt it. Who still haven't made the purchase/pre-order you might not get it until 2015 unless buying from overseas.

Just cross out Australia from your list as our items are way overpriced :lol:
 
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JimBowL_
Can someone confirm this? Wow dec. 2nd. Holy s... f...
Click to expand...

Basically I lost my place in line when I changed the credit card. :ouch:

Won't be doing THAT again, that's for sure. Oh well, the pedals and shifter have no delivery date so who knows when they'll be arriving. May as well wait. :guilty:
 
skazz
Identical to my experiences. However the exact clunk point depends on the power of centering spring.

Try this: In windows just after boot you will find centering spring is firm so it's 40 degrees before the clunk happens.
If you then enter the Thrustmaster configuration screen and exit it, centering spring is slightly weaker afterwards (still in windows desktop) and the clunks happen around 120 degrees.
Click to expand...

Bingo, it is exactly as you described it.
 
WeamDreaver
Bingo, it is exactly as you described it.
Click to expand...
Now I'm very curious if you are intending to try tightening screws (the big ones on the underneath or opening up and looking for screws inside). As I said, something which I tightened reduced the clunk. I intend to spend more time troubleshooting again tonight, however, to try and get rid of the clunk completely.
 
ccaranna
Basically I lost my place in line when I changed the credit card. :ouch:

Won't be doing THAT again, that's for sure. Oh well, the pedals and shifter have no delivery date so who knows when they'll be arriving. May as well wait. :guilty:
Click to expand...
do a live chat (very easy and quick) they will reslot you .seen it before
 
skazz
Now I'm very curious if you are intending to try tightening screws (the big ones on the underneath or opening up and looking for screws inside). As I said, something which I tightened reduced the clunk. I intend to spend more time troubleshooting again tonight, however, to try and get rid of the clunk completely.
Click to expand...

I just checked all the screw underneath. I was only able to tighten two of them, the bigger one at the front slightly off center and a smaller one. But only for a very small amount. All screws are super tight. And as I expected, the tightening changed nothing. The clunk is still there without any reduction.

The pattern that you discovered (first at 40° then at 120°) is a mystery to me. What on earth can change inside the base if I go into the TM software without changing anything? And how can the clunk change from 40° to 120° and then back ingame to 40°?

I am tempted as well to open the wheel. But I looked at the TX pics from the link posted here, and I have the feeling that we won't find anything to alter after opening the base. I fear it is something inside the mechanism. But I am no expert in such technical things. I think for someone with a bit of technical knowledge about e-motors etc. it should be a no-brainer to at least guess where such clunk behaviour can come from. Especially with the 100% reproducable and unique pattern.
 
WeamDreaver
I just checked all the screw underneath.

The pattern that you discovered (first at 40° then at 120°) is a mystery to me. What on earth can change inside the base if I go into the TM software without changing anything? And how can the clunk change from 40° to 120° and then back ingame to 40°?.
Click to expand...

Very interesting. That means that my changed clunk noise was due to one of the screws inside, but the only ones I tightened were holding the central mechanism to the front panel, couldn't find any non-red-marked screws elsewhere. There are some screws on a panel holding the motor and belt pulleys, but they were very tight and I didn't change them whatsoever.

My reasoning on the clunk is that it's the entire mechanism shifting left-right slightly (I say this especially because the left and right clunk noises come from audibly different places inside the wheelbase). In order to shift the mechanism, I reason that it requires a minimum amount of pressure, which is delivered when turning against centering spring. The firmer the centering spring, the less far you need to rotate the wheel to achieve this pressure.

I'll have another go this evening, if I solve it I'll take some photos. If not I'll probably initiate a support request.
 
diesel97
do a live chat (very easy and quick) they will reslot you .seen it before
Click to expand...

This, definitely worth your time to do so. Amazon is freaking fantastic at customer service, trust me.


Jerome
 
Some simple drawing about how I imagine the clunk mechanism. Possibly stupid...
The bigger U-thing underneath seems to travel with the movement (almost like it latches on at each clunk) until the top thing reaches the opposite 40°.
T300-clunk.jpg
 
Temporarily out of stock at Amazon U.S. now.

I guess we've all been waiting for them and the demand was pretty good on the first shipment.
I hope my choosing a slower shipping method (the free one) doesn't move me further back in line...:nervous:


Edit:
Newegg shows them in stock still. Albeit for $20 more.

$419.99

20+ In stock.

Sold and Shipped by:
Newegg
 
WeamDreaver
Some simple drawing about how I imagine the clunk mechanism. Possibly stupid...
The bigger U-thing underneath seems to travel with the movement (almost like it latches on at each clunk) until the top thing reaches the opposite 40°.
View attachment 241261
Click to expand...
If this was the case, then you'd have a clunk every time you turn the wheel a few degrees one way then back the other.... And it wouldn't change with The strength of the counter force....
 
WeamDreaver
I just checked all the screw underneath. I was only able to tighten two of them, the bigger one at the front slightly off center and a smaller one. But only for a very small amount. All screws are super tight. And as I expected, the tightening changed nothing. The clunk is still there without any reduction.

The pattern that you discovered (first at 40° then at 120°) is a mystery to me. What on earth can change inside the base if I go into the TM software without changing anything? And how can the clunk change from 40° to 120° and then back ingame to 40°?

I am tempted as well to open the wheel. But I looked at the TX pics from the link posted here, and I have the feeling that we won't find anything to alter after opening the base. I fear it is something inside the mechanism. But I am no expert in such technical things. I think for someone with a bit of technical knowledge about e-motors etc. it should be a no-brainer to at least guess where such clunk behaviour can come from. Especially with the 100% reproducable and unique pattern.
Click to expand...
Just to say that I've had the top cover open again, Checked every screw which wasn't red coated. Clunk is still present. I'm more and more convinced that it's actually a bad tolerance in the steering shaft: where the internal shaft and external case for that shaft are misaligning due to incorrect shapes. I.e. Not fixable.
 
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Let's just say that I was driving GT6 with my T500 earlier and every time I turned the wheel from center I was surprised not to feel a clunk.... I'd argue it does definitely negatively affect the functionality of the wheel, and probably also the longevity.
 
ccaranna
Basically I lost my place in line when I changed the credit card. :ouch:

Won't be doing THAT again, that's for sure. Oh well, the pedals and shifter have no delivery date so who knows when they'll be arriving. May as well wait. :guilty:
Click to expand...
Well good luck with that man. When I ordered the wheel I got estimated delivery of October 21st. I checked out my order yesterday to see what shipping speed I selected. When I left the page I got an email saying estimated delivery of December 2nd. After a chat session a few minutes ago I cancelled my order due to them saying I lost my place in line and it is now backordered. Needless to say that pretty much ruined my day.
 
TJisA1337NOOB
Well good luck with that man. When I ordered the wheel I got estimated delivery of October 21st. I checked out my order yesterday to see what shipping speed I selected. When I left the page I got an email saying estimated delivery of December 2nd. After a chat session a few minutes ago I cancelled my order due to them saying I lost my place in line and it is now backordered. Needless to say that pretty much ruined my day.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I got a reply from Amazon basically saying their stock is at the mercy of the manufacturer's supply. As a consolation I got free 1-day shipping.
 
I thought the T300 RS and T300 GTE were supposed to be released at the same time. Amazon still doesn't list the T300 GTE.
 
now that pcars is delayed... do yall really still want a t300 for ps4 or are some of yall waiting now? Not like driveclub is worth $400 imo....with no clutch and shifter support and it still half broken....but if you play on pc too and need an upgrade i can see getting t300 but just for ps4, it can wait now.



well i suppose there is the crew as well and if you still play gt6 on ps3 and need an upgrade.
 

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