Thrustmaster T-GT Wheel Thread

[FPV MIC]

All those things you're feeling are just from the base FFB. Trust me, I've compared driving with the T-DFB on or off multiple times for a few months and decided with it turned off because it adds precisely zero info to my driving than just a constant rumble. Try driving without it for a month or so (to get used to the lack of rumble). You'll still be able to feel understeer/oversteer/weight transfer, maybe even better than before If you don't like it, then you can always turn it on again.

My understanding is that any effect that is not tied to the physics = canned. Fair enough I didn't use the word canned before this, but I was saying for a few posts before that it's not tied to the physics.

I don't know if you've played ISImotor sims, but they have 4 levels of FFB settings (Low, Med, High, Full). Most people don't know and just assume more is better, so they put it in Full (including me when I first started). But actually, all the info you need to assess car behaviour is already there in Low (tyre grip + steering rack forces). Med/High/Full just adds various "artificial" rumble effects like kerbs, brake/engine vibration.

Force Feedback Tweaking Guide for Simbin Games

Julien Regnard v1.0 Disclaimer (a tradition as soon as it deals with hardware): I assume no responsibility for any damage. Don't forget that the energy you spend turning the wheel always end mostly as friction heat and gears ageing. Too strong and jerky FFB will shorten the life of your wheel...

simracing.fandom.com

I do know AC/ACC also has settings for extra effects (like the Enhanced Understeer and the road feel slider). I have all of them turned off, because I just like the purest FFB from the tyres and steering rack. In real life you get all these other sensations from your butt and the car's vertical movement, not from the steering wheel. Some people like to add in these forces to their wheel to compensate, but for me I drive just fine without it and consider it more a hindrance. If we ever get to the point that motion rigs become cheap enough for home use, then I might reconsider. But at the moment I'm happy enough without it.

At the end of the day it's personal preference as you said But I'm just questioning jad's logic of using the T-GT's signals to try add tactile immersion when there are far easier ways to do so (and even if you can get it to work, IMHO it won't help him feel the car any better). And also wanting to use it in PC sims when they are already superior in FFB even without it.

Good video on the topic if you have some time to spend (made by the guy behind Automobilista's physics). Summary from 42.00 onwards and discussion about bumps from 45.30.

We're pretty much on the same page 👍. I too question the logic of using the T-DFB that way as I think the steering column isn't the right place for certain effects, but I do think it can be done for pc games and could possibly add something for people that prefer different things (the personal preference bit we both agree on). Using SimVibe (or similar) you're running straight off the games physics engine just like FFB so there's no reason why it wouldn't add, but ButtKickers (or similar) IMO are the prime example of adding the feel to where it should be... seat of the pants.

Side note: I love the feel/kick of gear changes going through my seat with the ButtKicker

 

[jad_morffier]

All those things you're feeling are just from the base FFB. Trust me, I've compared driving with the T-DFB on or off multiple times for a few months and decided with it turned off because it adds precisely zero info to my driving than just a constant rumble. Try driving without it for a month or so (to get used to the lack of rumble). You'll still be able to feel understeer/oversteer/weight transfer, maybe even better than before If you don't like it, then you can always turn it on again.

My understanding is that any effect that is not tied to the physics = canned. Fair enough I didn't use the word canned before this, but I was saying for a few posts before that it's not tied to the physics.

I don't know if you've played ISImotor sims, but they have 4 levels of FFB settings (Low, Med, High, Full). Most people don't know and just assume more is better, so they put it in Full (including me when I first started). But actually, all the info you need to assess car behaviour is already there in Low (tyre grip + steering rack forces). Med/High/Full just adds various "artificial" rumble effects like kerbs, brake/engine vibration.

Force Feedback Tweaking Guide for Simbin Games

Julien Regnard v1.0 Disclaimer (a tradition as soon as it deals with hardware): I assume no responsibility for any damage. Don't forget that the energy you spend turning the wheel always end mostly as friction heat and gears ageing. Too strong and jerky FFB will shorten the life of your wheel...

simracing.fandom.com

I do know AC/ACC also has settings for extra effects (like the Enhanced Understeer and the road feel slider). I have all of them turned off, because I just like the purest FFB from the tyres and steering rack. In real life you get all these other sensations from your butt and the car's vertical movement, not from the steering wheel. Some people like to add in these forces to their wheel to compensate, but for me I drive just fine without it and consider it more a hindrance. If we ever get to the point that motion rigs become cheap enough for home use, then I might reconsider. But at the moment I'm happy enough without it.

At the end of the day it's personal preference as you said But I'm just questioning jad's logic of using the T-GT's signals to try add tactile immersion when there are far easier ways to do so (and even if you can get it to work, IMHO it won't help him feel the car any better). And also wanting to use it in PC sims when they are already superior in FFB even without it.

Good video on the topic if you have some time to spend (made by the guy behind Automobilista's physics). Summary from 42.00 onwards and discussion about bumps from 45.30.

Yes I've accidentally started GT Sport in the other mode and noticed a demonstrable difference immediately. I couldn't work out what was going on as I was missing all the tires limit feels and other stuff the standard ffb simply doesn't provide. It was horrible.

Once I worked out my error I restarted in GT mode and all the added information came back.

 

[jad_morffier]

Actually, this is the first time you've mentioned canned so I'm not sure how you've mentioned it multiple times. Previously you described it as constant which is not even close to the same, because yes, I do know what canned means in relation to FFB.

Also, just as an FYI (you may know this already), AC, ACC and Automobilista all use canned effects that people are often using unknowingly. Fair chance a lot of other PC sim games do over and above just using the physics engine as well. The use of canned effects is something that's not necessarily bad, just a personal choice.

@jad_morffier I don't feel as many different things as you are but I know my rig needs stiffening up so I don't expect the most out of my T-TG at this stage. I'm probably half way between yours and @LeGeNd-1's description. But I do agree with @LeGeNd-1 that many other games are superior to GTS in feel and communicating different effects without using a T-DFB.

Yes i agree the standard ffb in acc, ac and iracing are superior on the pc the tgt than GT Sport. Even acc and ac on playstation is better.
Hopefully GT7 will have a much better ffb system.

 

[Rotax2020]

Hello, i dont like the transducer, so i can switch to "Other" mode.

Who knows, if the FFB is the same as in "GT mode ?

 

[FPV MIC]

Hello, i dont like the transducer, so i can switch to "Other" mode.

Who knows, if the FFB is the same as in "GT mode ?

You can just turn it off by going to Controller settings and then in the vibration menu turn it off as it also works on the T-GT as well as the controller, or turn it down to zero like in the quote below in the same section.

I'm not sure if you know or not but you can at least adjust the vibration strength, or turn it off completely.

When you use "Other" mode the wheel base is seen as a T300.

 

[Rotax2020]

Thank you very much, will give it a try.

Basically i like the transducer, but it should be only activated if i hit something or loose the car.

But now it feels like there is somebody holding an angle grinder to my rig

 

[Leggacy]

Thank you very much, will give it a try.

Basically i like the transducer, but it should be only activated if i hit something or loose the car.

But now it feels like there is somebody holding an angle grinder to my rig

Go to controller settings in GT and go to controller vibration, and turn it down or off. It’s set at 100 by default, you can turn it up to 150! If you’re mad. I turned it down to 50 and it’s a lot better.

 

[ShiftingGears]

I couldn't find the other thread I posted in @LeGeNd-1 but can anyone advise how to actually remove the T-GT wheel to install the etsy mod? Best I've managed to do is loosen it, but not detach it from the column. (Thrustmaster's support site is terrible)

 

[Leggacy]

I couldn't find the other thread I posted in @LeGeNd-1 but can anyone advise how to actually remove the T-GT wheel to install the etsy mod? Best I've managed to do is loosen it, but not detach it from the column. (Thrustmaster's support site is terrible)

Remove the small screw in the plastic ring, you should be able to hold the plastic ring an unscrew it, the wheel will come off.

 

[ShiftingGears]

Remove the small screw in the plastic ring, you should be able to hold the plastic ring an unscrew it, the wheel will come off.

Thanks mate I'll give it a go

 

[Chazy90]

Is there any official info on the GT7 support on PS5 for the T-GT2 in regards to the GT Mode?
I am mainly talking about the transducer, but every info I found was referring to GTS on PS4.

 

[Goonie75]

You will most likely have to wait for the game to be released.

 

[ShiftingGears]

Is this how the etsy mod is supposed to look?

 

[LeGeNd-1]

I have the horns on mine slightly more to the left of center. See if you can tighten it a bit more.

 

[5thwheel]

Is there any official info on the GT7 support on PS5 for the T-GT2 in regards to the GT Mode?
I am mainly talking about the transducer, but every info I found was referring to GTS on PS4.

Interested to hear about this as well now that the game is out.

I assume GT mode on the wheelbase is still a thing in GT7? And that the rotary dials still allow adjusting brake bias and so on? Anybody tested this?

 

[whiskeypit]

Everything works the same as it did with GT Sport.

 

[WildRun]

I assume GT mode on the wheelbase is still a thing in GT7? And that the rotary dials still allow adjusting brake bias and so on? Anybody tested this?

Default mapping of the T-GT in GRAN TURISMO™ 7:

In GT MODE: T-DFB (Depth Feedback effects) - how to adjust the strength in GRAN TURISMO™ games:

 

[5thwheel]

Thanks guys! Good to see last year's official GT wheel is still supported like we're used to even if it may not be the official choice anymore!

 

[FPV MIC]

Anyone else unable to download driver + firmware package?

When I hold the curser over it I get this...

Size: 0 kb

I'm not too concerned because I've seen this happen to others before, it just hasn't happened to me before.

 

[WildRun]

You just need to click here to download the driver (it works on my side):

Direct link if it's not working on your browser: https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pub/webupdate/T500RS/2021_TTRS_4.exe

 

[FPV MIC]

You just need to click here to download the driver (it works on my side):

Direct link if it's not working on your browser: https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pub/webupdate/T500RS/2021_TTRS_4.exe

That's what I was doing, and I tried on Chrome and Explorer but neither worked for me. I've seen this multiple times from different people but as I mentioned, it's the first time it's happened to me.

None of the downloads are working at all for me, not even the manual. Good thing I have it already.

Anyway, cheers for the link, that worked. 👍

 

[ProfDoobverk]

Hi everyone,

I own a T-GT and have an issue where during moments of high steering lock the wheel thinks several buttons have been pushed at once, this includes the ps buttom and share button too which of course pauses or puts the car in auto drive.

I found a small improvement by removing the rim from the wheelbase and reconnecting it but its gotten worse again.

Does anyone have any solutions?

I think i heard somewhere a while ago about some kind of quick release adapter fixing this issue?

 

[ghost30]

Hi everyone,

I own a T-GT and have an issue where during moments of high steering lock the wheel thinks several buttons have been pushed at once, this includes the ps buttom and share button too which of course pauses or puts the car in auto drive.

I found a small improvement by removing the rim from the wheelbase and reconnecting it but its gotten worse again.

Does anyone have any solutions?

I think i heard somewhere a while ago about some kind of quick release adapter fixing this issue?

I know exactly what you’re talking about… it’ll kick you into the PS cam/record menu also at times. It’s very annoying. I replaced my original T-GT rim (the left joystick was drifting), with a new wheel T-GT rim I bought on eBay about 2 years ago. It started acting up started a few months later, but I thought it was my power supply, or my base. It’s recently gotten worse, so a few days ago I swapped rims, and the problem went away.

So the culprit for me was the “new” replacement rim I bought on eBay. I don’t have a pc, only macs, but one day I may go over to my brothers house to finally update the wheel to see if it helps with the newer rim. I have the first T-GT btw.

 

[Pack21pt]

Yesterday I upgraded my T300, buying the base of the T-GT II, loaded with my T-LCM pedals and my Sparco P310 rim.

And friends, I'm so glad i don't have to sell my kidneys to have an equivalent setup on the GT DD PRO (8N, V3 pedales, GT3 rim + shipping cost).

Now it's time to enjoy the great TGT2/GT7 and who knows, maybe one day a DD Thrustmaster will be released for PS5/GT7.

With a 3-year warranty, I'm not at all worried about the wait for a TM DD, as i keep my T300 base as a backup.

 

[SpecMiata-JSW]

Hi everyone,

I own a T-GT and have an issue where during moments of high steering lock the wheel thinks several buttons have been pushed at once, this includes the ps buttom and share button too which of course pauses or puts the car in auto drive.

I found a small improvement by removing the rim from the wheelbase and reconnecting it but its gotten worse again.

Does anyone have any solutions?

I think i heard somewhere a while ago about some kind of quick release adapter fixing this issue?

I had this exact issue and what fixed it for me what installing a new 6 pin connector on the back of the wheel. I got the 6 pin connector from the TM website and had my buddy who is good with electronics install it, the wheel has been perfect since. Good luck!

 

[WildRun]

Default mapping of the SF1000 rim (with the T-GT or the T300 bases) in GRAN TURISMO™ 7:
(all rotary dials are fully supported for Fuel Map / Brake Balance / TCS / Torque Distribution / Track Map / Radar / Session Best)

 

[Pack21pt]

I have a T-GT II+P310+T-LCM and today I tried a GT DD PRO GT3 Rim+ 8Nn+Load cell CLS.

Compared both on GT7, same cars and tracks.

And my conclusion is that the T GT II is underrated, compared to the DD PRO.

There are things that I liked better in DD PRO, but there are other things I like better in T-GTII.

If I compare my T-GT II combo, only to the simple DD PRO Bundle, my combo is much better, The Bundle DD PRO without its small steering wheel, no load cell, and just 5Nn doesn't compete with mine combo.

After having tested the DD PRO, I didn't feel any urgency to upgrade from my combo, with big losses of money. So for those who have a combo similar to mine, it's waiting for a DD from Thrustmaster, and then buy just the base, with the today's test i can wait 2 years rested until the thrustmaster DD for GT7 comes to light.

 

[Broncis]

I have the T-Gt II with Tlcm padels. From the moment I used it on my rig, I felt the vibration on my rig on GTS. Then one day it made strange noices and from there I can not feel the road or curbs or vibration through rig. Just to mention I have the new drigers and firmware10 . 32 installed. My question is if the wheel is broken?. I dont feel a differance between the normal or Gt switch on my ps5. Vibrations 150 on game. Tested also on Gt7. The driving part of wheel works fine, but I dont feel any vibrations. Can anyone advice me please?

 

[Greycap]

And my conclusion is that the T GT II is underrated, compared to the DD PRO.

It certainly is. Nowadays the big thing is direct drive, everyone praises it without any better knowledge, and everything that isn't direct drive gets automatically disregarded. While there may be advantages to it, the rest of the hardware still has to be every bit as good to fully benefit from it. At the moment it seems that the only thing Fanatec really has the upper hand in is the fanatic users - the company name definitely is fitting.

I'm getting more and more confident that I made the right choice with the T-GT II myself. Three pedals and a leather wrapped wheel in the base package already, and the brake pedal with the rubber cone mod is surprisingly similar feeling compared to my actual car that has a bit of travel in the pedal before the pads bite hard. My original plan was to run the stock pedals only for a while and then upgrade to the T-LCM but it seems that I may keep them indefinitely as they're really pretty good.

The thing I actually may replace at some point is the wheel itself, the Sparco R383 is looking very tempting as I nearly never drive open wheel racers and it would probably fit road and GT cars better than the stock wheel. I'd lose the four rotating dials for GT7 but mapping the D-pad to do the job works perfectly well for the very few times things have to adjusted on the fly anyway. Add to that a heavily customized TH8A with a scratch built lever and a lathed-by-hand wooden knob and I'm set for years to come.

 

[whiskeypit]

I love my T-GT steering wheel. It's a very good steering wheel in the Gran Turismo universe. I have also tested a DD Pro, and I think the T-GT still holds up very well and is even more appealing to me personally in Gran Turismo because of the T-DFB feedback.

The thing I actually may replace at some point is the wheel itself, the Sparco R383 is looking very tempting as I nearly never drive open wheel racers and it would probably fit road and GT cars better than the stock wheel. I'd lose the four rotating dials for GT7 but mapping the D-pad to do the job works perfectly well for the very few times things have to adjusted on the fly anyway...

I already had the Sparco P310. It has exactly the same base as the R383. A really good steering wheel that feels great. But in the end I sold it again because of the D-pad knob. It is very imprecise and it happens very often (50%) that you send an unwanted signal in the wrong direction.
Since I need the D-pad for the MFD settings and a quick adjustment during the race cost me a lot of nerves, I switched back to my original T-GT steering wheel.

I would therefore think twice about it. The T-GT steering wheel is better for Gran Turismo than any other... and you'll only ever notice the disadvantages once you've used them.