Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

[Outspacer]

@Bozothenutter - Probably neither

First PCB takes power routed from the USB to switch on mains power - that circuit may or may not work with your 26V, probably not worth the bother trying since your power brick would remain on anyway.

Second PCB rectifies and smooths the AC output of the transformer into DC - you won't need that, it will be in the power brick.

So, I think the simple version is just to hook up the brick to the fatter red and black on that molex connector, but can't say I've tried it

 

[Bozothenutter]

@Bozothenutter - Probably neither

First PCB takes power routed from the USB to switch on mains power - that circuit may or may not work with your 26V, probably not worth the bother trying since your power brick would remain on anyway.

Second PCB rectifies and smooths the AC output of the transformer into DC - you won't need that, it will be in the power brick.

So, I think the simple version is just to hook up the brick to the fatter red and black on that molex connector, but can't say I've tried it

Hmmm,
Makes sense this man does....

so connecting to USB will no longer act as a switch?

 

[Outspacer]

Hmmm,
Makes sense this man does....

so connecting to USB will no longer act as a switch?

I know electronics but haven't played with a wheel's power supply setup before, so beware!

Not in the simple version, but I don't know if the simple version is good enough for use - it may be that without USB the motor could do random things if the 26V was left on.

More complex version would have a circuit similar to the first PCB, but I suspect not the same as it would be switching DC and not AC. An opto-isolator and a mosfet should suffice (may not need the opto, but I'm not sure if the two grounds can be connected together).

 

[Bozothenutter]

I know electronics but haven't played with a wheel's power supply setup before, so beware!

Not in the simple version, but I don't know if the simple version is good enough for use - it may be that without USB the motor could do random things if the 26V was left on.

More complex version would have a circuit similar to the first PCB, but I suspect not the same as it would be switching DC and not AC. An opto-isolator and a mosfet should suffice (may not need the opto, but I'm not sure if the two grounds can be connected together).

Thanks!
Good point about the AC/DC bit, never thought of that.
I imagine the rectifier won't be needed as stated before.
Lost me at the opto, have a slight understanding of a mosfet...
Might pic your brain later

Better pic of first pcb:

 

[Outspacer]

Thanks!
Good point about the AC/DC bit, never thought of that.
I imagine the rectifier won't be needed as stated before.
Lost me at the opto, have a slight understanding of a mosfet...
Might pic your brain later

Better pic of first pcb:

For this discussion, they're all just electrically controlled switches - MOSFET switches DC, TRIAC switches AC, and opto-isolator ("opt") switches without any electrical connection between the switching side and the switched side.

 

[Bozothenutter]

small test tonight...
despite all my efforts at destroying it, with all its original guts hanging out it still starts, runs and calibrates!
no pop, no bang, no smoke...

 

[Bozothenutter]

Anybody know a EU reseller for Hengdrive?
Trying to find a B5665M somewhere, just need 1 or 2, not 1000....

 

[asteroulis]

Anybody know a EU reseller for Hengdrive?
Trying to find a B5665M somewhere, just need 1 or 2, not 1000....

Sometimes they sell on Ebay , but for 40gbp . Much more expensive than needed. What do you need them for? If yours has a loose core you can open it and reglue it.

 

[baygencos]

Hey folks. I'm having a big issue and need help.

T300rs randomly loosing throttle.
I thought the t3pa was broken so i upgraded to t-lcm. Same issue happens but less frequently.

If i disconnect the pedals' connector from the base and re attach, it comes back. If i disconnect the usb from ps4 and reconnect, it comes back. Restart ps4 and it comes back.

Brake pedal works whilst no throttle. Wiggling the connector doesn't replicate the issue. I'm lost.

Is this a software or hardware issue i have no clue about. Very dissappointing.

This looks like a hardware triggered software issue but should happen to a lot people if so...

No fun racing with this!

I think this happens at very hard fighting race conditions. After sudden inputs maybe.

Can there be a loose something inside the base. What or where should i look for?

 

[Bozothenutter]

well...
my wheel is finished and still works!
the relay board works with 26V, so the USB still acts as a switch.
bought some completely unnecessary connectors that look good and glued the relay board into the housing in true Thrustmaster style!

 

[Bozothenutter]

Hey folks. I'm having a big issue and need help.

T300rs randomly loosing throttle.
I thought the t3pa was broken so i upgraded to t-lcm. Same issue happens but less frequently.

If i disconnect the pedals' connector from the base and re attach, it comes back. If i disconnect the usb from ps4 and reconnect, it comes back. Restart ps4 and it comes back.

Brake pedal works whilst no throttle. Wiggling the connector doesn't replicate the issue. I'm lost.

Is this a software or hardware issue i have no clue about. Very dissappointing.

This looks like a hardware triggered software issue but should happen to a lot people if so...

No fun racing with this!

I think this happens at very hard fighting race conditions. After sudden inputs maybe.

Can there be a loose something inside the base. What or where should i look for?

Do you have the adaptor to use the pedals as a USB set?

Have you (re)upgraded firmware?
Sometimes this helps.

If you open up the base(warranty!)
You'll see where the pedals go into the main pcb, just about all you can do is check that plug.

 

[Bozothenutter]

Sometimes they sell on Ebay , but for 40gbp . Much more expensive than needed. What do you need them for? If yours has a loose core you can open it and reglue it.

I have a T300, so would like to upgrade (well see if it works anyway)

 

[Bozothenutter]

Been running with my modded wheel...
AWESOME, feel is much smoother in AC still dialling in the ffb, but its getting there.
Added the Sparco 383 into the mix, as I have the same wheel lined up for my car.
Now I need more power I think.....

 

[Vin Sinn]

Hey guys, my buddy @LeightonAVS just bought a T300 and when he hooked it all up it makes this sound. Does anyone know what it wrong with it or what is making that sound? Thanks very much for any and all info/help.





@super_gt

Been running with my modded wheel...
AWESOME, feel is much smoother in AC still dialling in the ffb, but its getting there.
Added the Sparco 383 into the mix, as I have the same wheel lined up for my car.
Now I need more power I think.....

Nice, I have been on the 383 a couple years now, and I love it. The joystick took some getting used to, and don't forget to wear gloves, because the suede dye turns you're hands black and doesn't wash off very well. On the bright side after a year or so it turns into leather...I still wear the gloves though LOL, got so used to it that now it's just one more part of the rig.

 

[Bozothenutter]

Weird weird problem....
When I crash my car hard
AC freezes, the pc makes the USB disconnect sound, and everything goes unresponsive.
Almost immediatly the wheel recalibrates (so reconnects)
But mouse is still unresponsive, keyboard works though.
Almost seems like the car crash causes some sort of spike that resets USB or something...

Wheel is on latest soft/firmware, win10 64bit is up to date.
No errors in eventlog (win or system)

 

[cjr3559]

After nearly three years of use, it was time to take off and clean the R383 rim, so I put the GTE rim back on my T300. I hate to admit, but FFB and detail in all games I’ve played and replayed with the stock GTE rim feel superior and natural than the R383. And in all honesty, I would keep using the stock rim over the R383 but I can’t stand the cheap rubber material.

So, if anyone has advice or if there’s a formula to making adjustments to FFB when using larger rims like the R383 I’m open for suggestions.

 

[Awong124]

After nearly three years of use, it was time to take off and clean the R383 rim, so I put the GTE rim back on my T300. I hate to admit, but FFB and detail in all games I’ve played and replayed with the stock GTE rim feel superior and natural than the R383. And in all honesty, I would keep using the stock rim over the R383 but I can’t stand the cheap rubber material.

So, if anyone has advice or if there’s a formula to making adjustments to FFB when using larger rims like the R383 I’m open for suggestions.

I don't have any advice for using a larger rim, but if you just don't like the cheap rubber you can get the leather rim that's the same size as the stock one. I'm using that one and the leather is quite nice.

 

[asteroulis]

Bigger rim = needs more torque. So obviously you cannot make it feel the same. I have wrapped some wheels with leather too and they are great.

 

[Schusbrah]

Hi there. So i got a t300rs gt workend fine First two hours i played. Great Feeling and everything. I Player today and it started to lose Center all the time in Long Turns in Hairpins and on straights. From 10 to 180 degree. Drove one lap with wheele upside down. Full force Feedback active and turning was smooth. Just lost Center and Stayed tilted Off the Center. Is IT the Belt or the magnatic Tube on the rotor. Has anyone a similat expirience.

Sorry die Bad english .No nativ English speaker.

Maybe you Guys can Help me

 

[ynot]

Hi there. So i got a t300rs gt workend fine First two hours i played. Great Feeling and everything. I Player today and it started to lose Center all the time in Long Turns in Hairpins and on straights. From 10 to 180 degree. Drove one lap with wheele upside down. Full force Feedback active and turning was smooth. Just lost Center and Stayed tilted Off the Center. Is IT the Belt or the magnatic Tube on the rotor. Has anyone a similat expirience.

Sorry die Bad english .No nativ English speaker.

Maybe you Guys can Help me

Was this a used or new wheel? I would connect to your PC and make sure the firmware is up to date. That might be all it is. Also make sure switch is in the PS4 position.

 

[Schusbrah]

Was this a used or new wheel? I would connect to your PC and make sure the firmware is up to date. That might be all it is. Also make sure switch is in the PS4 position.

IT was a used one. I have opend IT today. On the Magnet that Points on the Hall Sensor was a Lot of Metal dust. I Disconnected tHe Sensor cleaned the magnet and now IT works as New.

 

[ynot]

IT was a used one. I have opend IT today. On the Magnet that Points on the Hall Sensor was a Lot of Metal dust. I Disconnected tHe Sensor cleaned the magnet and now IT works as New.

Awesome. I've had mine since GT6 and it is still working great. I love it.

 

[MuTunes]

I would like to go for an open wheel design for my t300.

What is the generally better add on? The Ferrari F1 or the TM open race wheel?

I wish the SF1000 was available anywhere.

 

[jac0]

hi,
have a Ferrari GTE wheel (on a T300 base) of which one of it's buttons died.
It's the 3 function rocker/push button (1, 2, off ):

anyone can post a link to where I can order a similar replacement component ?

(on Thrustmaster site itself, the smallest part I can order is the whole wheel)

cheers!

EDIT: here some pics of the component itself:

 

[ron86]

Hey there.
I just ordered a 3 month old t300rs gt for 100 euros as my g29 stopped working.

Do you know if there‘s a way to use my g29 shifter with the t300 on gt7?

 

[Pigems]

Hey there.
I just ordered a 3 month old t300rs gt for 100 euros as my g29 stopped working.

Do you know if there‘s a way to use my g29 shifter with the t300 on gt7?

Only on PC I believe, you’d need a TM shifter to use it on console as far as I know.

 

[dkstz]

Hello.

I was racing on GT7 Nations this Saturday, with the Super Formula car, one with a lot of downforce, so the force feedback seems stronger without changing settings...

So in this track, Deep Forest, there's an hairpin left after a long straight and when braking and turning the wheel feels heavier.

In one lap my wheel made a different "pop" when turning at a high angle and after that it got slightly off center by about 2 degrees according to the in game calibration screen.

Would that be the infamous belt slip? I only had a wheel for about a month or so and this was the first time it happened.

Any tips on how to avoid this?

I'm using 2/5 settings for force feedback and sensitivity, by the way.

The same "pop" sound happened once on the hairpin (left) of Suzuka...

Thanks for any replies.

I didn't realize there was a proper T300 thread, so I'm just copying the text from another thread I opened one of these days.

 

[Pigems]

Hello.

I was racing on GT7 Nations this Saturday, with the Super Formula car, one with a lot of downforce, so the force feedback seems stronger without changing settings...

So in this track, Deep Forest, there's an hairpin left after a long straight and when braking and turning the wheel feels heavier.

In one lap my wheel made a different "pop" when turning at a high angle and after that it got slightly off center by about 2 degrees according to the in game calibration screen.

Would that be the infamous belt slip? I only had a wheel for about a month or so and this was the first time it happened.

Any tips on how to avoid this?

I'm using 2/5 settings for force feedback and sensitivity, by the way.

The same "pop" sound happened once on the hairpin (left) of Suzuka...

Thanks for any replies.

I didn't realize there was a proper T300 thread, so I'm just copying the text from another thread I opened one of these days.

What in game torque setting are you on? 3-4 torque is likely the most common. Above that and you may get clipping, the equivalent of turning a speaker up too loud, and having it go all crackly and sound like crap. You lose the finer(more important) details of the FFB, and possibly damage your wheel in the long run.

 

[dkstz]

What in game torque setting are you on? 3-4 torque is likely the most common. Above that and you may get clipping, the equivalent of turning a speaker up too loud, and having it go all crackly and sound like crap. You lose the finer(more important) details of the FFB, and possibly damage your wheel in the long run.

I'm using 2 for force feedback and 5 for sensitivity.

On the PC dashboard it's set to 70% strength.

 

[Pigems]

I'm using 2 for force feedback and 5 for sensitivity.

On the PC dashboard it's set to 70% strength.

Ok, you should be fine there then, as far as clipping. It’s possible the wheel jumped a tooth/cog, on the belt then it sounds like, which I haven’t heard of on that wheel before. Did it re Center properly after resetting the wheel/console?