Thrustmaster T-GT Wheel Thread

[FPV MIC]

So I just bought a second hand standard T-GT

I'm very excited to set it up, but I have a couple of questions.

The guy who sold it to me didn't have any bolts as he hadn't used it for a while, I read on some posts here that the T-GT uses some washers or something when bolting it to the wheel mounting plate? Does anyone know where I could source some of these? I don't want to use any old bolts and damage the wheel basically

The bolts will need to be a specific length for your particular mounting plate as they can't go to far in. All the measurements are here: https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/TGT/t-gt-cockpit-settings.pdf

The washers just need to fit over the M6 bolts and have a fairly large outside diameter (50mm I think) but if I recall correctly they had a thin rubber type surface on one side. This could easily be replicated with something like pushbike tube cut to size and glued on.

Mine (the extra washer was to get the length right because I couldn't be bothered cutting the bolt shorter).

And I've also read that I need to update the firmware on PC - do I just connect the wheel to the PC and it does this automatically or do I need to download some programs?

Thanks

Instructions for the firmware procedure are here: https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pub/webupdate/T500RS/T-GT_Firmware_Update_Process_V10-32.pdf

And yes you do need to download the Control Panel. Make sure you read the instructions and follow them to the letter. Don't just plug the wheelbase in.

The download for the drivers + firmware is in the Drivers section here: https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-gt-en/

Some more light reading for you https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/TGT/TGT_User_Manual.pdf

Good luck

 

[Philtaylor17]

The bolts will need to be a specific length for your particular mounting plate as they can't go to far in. All the measurements are here: https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/TGT/t-gt-cockpit-settings.pdf

The washers just need to fit over the M6 bolts and have a fairly large outside diameter (50mm I think) but if I recall correctly they had a thin rubber type surface on one side. This could easily be replicated with something like pushbike tube cut to size and glued on.

Mine (the extra washer was to get the length right because I couldn't be bothered cutting the bolt shorter).
View attachment 1017348

Instructions for the firmware procedure are here: https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pub/webupdate/T500RS/T-GT_Firmware_Update_Process_V10-32.pdf

And yes you do need to download the Control Panel. Make sure you read the instructions and follow them to the letter. Don't just plug the wheelbase in.

The download for the drivers + firmware is in the Drivers section here: https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-gt-en/

Some more light reading for you https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/TGT/TGT_User_Manual.pdf

Good luck

Thankyou for all the information that's awesome

I will try and find something i can make a washer out of. I'm not really any good with stuff like this so should be an adventure

Would something like this work or are they too thick?

 

[FPV MIC]

View attachment 1017361 View attachment 1017359
Would something like this work or are they too thick?

The metal washer is the important one. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N9JCCXR/?tag=gtplanetuk-20

You could probably skip the rubber one, or I'd just make that out of any old rubber I could find if I felt I really had to use one. I think it's there to stop any noisy vibration but I would think it also would insulate some of the feel from the shaker as well.

 

[Klik]

Put your impression on how TGT feels on GT sport

 

[Papzen66]

Have you checked to see if the vibration function is turned on? In the options menu if you turn off vibration for the controller it also affects the T-GT vibration. Go to the GT logo in the top right corner > options > controllers > vibration function > select on (if it isn't already).

In that section is a vibration strength control for the vibration/transducer too, try turning the volume to full and see if you can notice any difference. I can feel mine easily by putting my hand on the top of the wheel base while driving.

Also, as you've mentioned, it could also be your rig dulling the effects.

In here:
View attachment 1016986

You may have already tried this, but it's worth a shot... and welcome to

Thanks, I'm glad I found this nice and dedicated community

Controller vibration settings was exactly what did the the trick!
Actually I came across the same after some googling, but I was little skeptical about it.

Here are some settings and tricks I have applied so far.
Not by far perfect and ready yet, but hopefully a good starting point for anyone.
Unfortunately I didn’t have time to try out all the variables one by one, which would be the right way to measure the effects of each setting.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________

PC:

-Updated Thrustmaster Control Panel.
-Applied the bootloader method that resets the wheel base's firmware back to factory default.
https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/manuals/TGT/T-GT_Bootloader_Method.pdf

TM Control Panel:

Overall strength 75
Spring & Damper 100

These Control Panel settings was only for testing. There is another thread where participants comes in to a conclusion that PC made settings don't affect Gran Turismo.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/thrustmaster-t300rs-settings-ffb-feels-strange.394592/page-2

Playstation:

-I choose the GT-mode at the wheelbase before I power on the console.
-If I don't have to leave the PS4 for downloading or updating, I don't leave anything at idle, just shutting the console down -completely.
-Just in case only, and this is for the T-DFB/Controller dependency in mind, I only use the wheel -no other controllers at the same time.
-In GTS I had to crank up some settings as follows:

The Wheel Stand pro v2:

It would be nice to feel some more road noise among other things with my feet, but I guess that is not possible without another transducer under the pedals.

 

[Papzen66]

Speaking of which, the idea of a second transducer makes me thinking of how to capture the T-DFB signals after the internal amp, making their way to the original transducer.

I’m assuming that the digital T-DFB signal is transformed to a simple analog “audio” stream after some point and that signal could be directed to a second transducer.

Just a thought, but I often find it amusing to play with different ideas 💡

 

[FPV MIC]

Speaking of which, the idea of a second transducer makes me thinking of how to capture the T-DFB signals after the internal amp, making their way to the original transducer.

I’m assuming that the digital T-DFB signal is transformed to a simple analog “audio” stream after some point and that signal could be directed to another transducer.

Just a thought, but I often find it amusing to play with different ideas 💡

In theory I think it's possible but it's probably easier and possibly more cost effective to go for something like a ButtKicker or similar with it's own setup as it will work for all your games then. https://simracingsetup.com/product-guides/adding-a-buttkicker-to-your-sim-rig/

I am still having no luck with my getting my ButtKicker to work if I'm using my Pulse 3d headset with my PS5 though. At least it works fine if I run my speaker system instead.

 

[Papzen66]

In theory I think it's possible but it's probably easier and possibly more cost effective to go for something like a ButtKicker or similar with it's own setup as it will work for all your games then. https://simracingsetup.com/product-guides/adding-a-buttkicker-to-your-sim-rig/

I am still having no luck with my getting my ButtKicker to work if I'm using my Pulse 3d headset with my PS5 though. At least it works fine if I run my speaker system instead.

Yes, you absolutely right about that making use of the console audio output for a buttkicker of some kind makes it a clean and convenient solution with all the compatibility too.

Buttkicker is not on the top of my list right now but sooner or later I probably will get one.

What comes to your situation with the buttkicker, that makes me wonder if it has to do with the DualSence controller haptics and the 3D audio features and how the PS5 internal chip is directing the signals.

I’m not familiar with the PS5, but may I ask where is your buttkicker amplifier connected?

Just a crazy thought, but have you already tried to connect your buttkicker amp to the DualSense controller?

 

[davidt33]

I absolutely love Buttkicker. Really adds so much more immersive effect to gaming thus making it so much more enjoyable. If I don't have it on I feel something is missing.

 

[FPV MIC]

Yes, you absolutely right about that making use of the console audio output for a buttkicker of some kind makes it a clean and convenient solution with all the compatibility too.

Buttkicker is not on the top of my list right now but sooner or later I probably will get one.

What comes to your situation with the buttkicker, that makes me wonder if it has to do with the DualSence controller haptics and the 3D audio features and how the PS5 internal chip is directing the signals.

I’m not familiar with the PS5, but may I ask where is your buttkicker amplifier connected?

Just a crazy thought, but have you already tried to connect your buttkicker amp to the DualSense controller?

I have my ButtKicker connected via the 3.5mm headphone jack on my TV. I've had it this way Because it used to be connected to a PS3 and PS4 so I could just go from one console to the other without switching anything. I would have preferred to use the optical out on the PS4 but it just wasn't practical in my situation.

The PS5 is different in the respect that it has no optical out and you can't run dual audio signals (yeah I know, stupid isn't it ). I haven't tried using it with the DualSense because there just isn't any way to run dual audio on PS5 with my Pulse headset. With my sound system I just run an HDMI to the TV, split the signal via the 3.5mm jack by using a 3.5mm splitter from the TV to go to the speakers and my ButtKicker. Easy peasy

I just run these. Small compact and does the job and adds an extra kick under my seat.

I absolutely love Buttkicker. Really adds so much more immersive effect to gaming thus making it so much more enjoyable. If I don't have it on I feel something is missing.

Yep, me too 👍

 

[davidt33]

I have my ButtKicker connected via the 3.5mm headphone jack on my TV. I've had it this way Because it used to be connected to a PS3 and PS4 so I could just go from one console to the other without switching anything. I would have preferred to use the optical out on the PS4 but it just wasn't practical in my situation.

The PS5 is different in the respect that it has no optical out and you can't run dual audio signals (yeah I know, stupid isn't it ). I haven't tried using it with the DualSense because there just isn't any way to run dual audio on PS5 with my Pulse headset. With my sound system I just run an HDMI to the TV, split the signal via the 3.5mm jack by using a 3.5mm splitter from the TV to go to the speakers and my ButtKicker. Easy peasy

I just run these. Small compact and does the job and adds an extra kick under my seat.
View attachment 1017941
View attachment 1017951


Yep, me too 👍

Hey @FPV MIC the speakers you attached there caught my eye. That's the Logitech Z625 400W speakers right? I have the exact speaker system. It is an amazing set of speakers....powerful with loads of deep base. I love it. I have that set up to my desktop computer though. I had that replace a previous (Logitech) system I had for my desktop computer when it finally kicked the bucket after many years. The Z625 400W blew me away when I hooked it up and is such a joy. It's the absolute best one I've had so far.

For my TV and PS4 console I have a soundbar home theatre system connected though which is also excellent. Because the PS4 Slim (and PS5) doesn't include an optical port (heaven knows why they didn't include it) what I ended up doing in order for Optical connection was to get an HDMI Audio (SPDIF+R/L) Extractor. That then allowed me to make connections for the PS4 Slim via HDMI-Optical and also to connect my ButtKicker....and also wireless headphones. Works great.

 

[Papzen66]

I have my ButtKicker connected via the 3.5mm headphone jack on my TV. I've had it this way Because it used to be connected to a PS3 and PS4 so I could just go from one console to the other without switching anything. I would have preferred to use the optical out on the PS4 but it just wasn't practical in my situation.

The PS5 is different in the respect that it has no optical out and you can't run dual audio signals (yeah I know, stupid isn't it ). I haven't tried using it with the DualSense because there just isn't any way to run dual audio on PS5 with my Pulse headset. With my sound system I just run an HDMI to the TV, split the signal via the 3.5mm jack by using a 3.5mm splitter from the TV to go to the speakers and my ButtKicker. Easy peasy

I just run these. Small compact and does the job and adds an extra kick under my seat.
View attachment 1017941
View attachment 1017951


Yep, me too 👍

Thanks for having that explained to me. Now I know little more about how the audio has been designed with the PS5.
A decision made by Sony or at least a solution, trying to find a balance between the fidelity and compromises in the recourses.

it is yet to be seen if any upcoming PS5 firmware update will give owners more usability options desired with the audio in the future.

And @FPV MIC, your rig looks in a good way as a very reasonable and clean setup to me.

Simplicity can be understood as an art of its own

 

[FPV MIC]

Hey @FPV MIC the speakers you attached there caught my eye. That's the Logitech Z625 400W speakers right? I have the exact speaker system. It is an amazing set of speakers....powerful with loads of deep base. I love it. I have that set up to my desktop computer though. I had that replace a previous (Logitech) system I had for my desktop computer when it finally kicked the bucket after many years. The Z625 400W blew me away when I hooked it up and is such a joy. It's the absolute best one I've had so far.

For my TV and PS4 console I have a soundbar home theatre system connected though which is also excellent. Because the PS4 Slim (and PS5) doesn't include an optical port (heaven knows why they didn't include it) what I ended up doing in order for Optical connection was to get an HDMI Audio (SPDIF+R/L) Extractor. That then allowed me to make connections for the PS4 Slim via HDMI-Optical and also to connect my ButtKicker....and also wireless headphones. Works great.

I have another set on my PC as well 👍. And yeah, they're great!

Unfortunately the PS5 won't work that way with my headphones. Once you switch over to them the dongle/headphones take priority over all sound and it can't be output from anywhere else. It's a crazy bad set up on Sony's part . Hopefully they'll get around to patching it so it will be possible to run the dongle and HDMI at the same time. In the mean time I just have to go without the BK when my gaming will annoy the better half .

 

[Papzen66]

Put your impression on how TGT feels on GT sport

Well, I only have my old T-300 rs gt to compare with, but since it’s just a week ago I last time drove the old one, I still have it in a fresh memory. So my impressions about how the T-GT feels like, is pretty much a comparison between the two.

First of all, I can really tell the difference between the 6 and 3.9Nm of torque, obviously. But there is more than just the numbers.
T-GT has more solidified ffb at any range of the force strength you may dial in the game. It doesn’t struggle at the highest torque setting like the T300 did.
At the more preferred setting around 5, you get feeling of more details while still the ffb isn’t weak at all.

The rim feels very solid with the given overhead by the better motor.

While for my taste, the GT Sport has a little odd way to replicate the under steering effect, this isn’t that annoying with the T-GT.

I haven’t got a remarkably better driver, but there’s less spin outs too.

Unfortunately I can’t tell that much about the T-DFB feature, but it’s definitely there.
In my experience it may add between 5-20% more nuances and immersion depending on the circumstances. It differs between cars and tracks.

To my disappointment the Nurburgring felt nothing extraordinary with the GT-Mode enabled. Some other tracks got it better.

The gaps, cracks and joints in the tarmac are more noticeable (if you lucky enough to find the few ones existing in the game)
So please confirm me that it was worth the 400€?
No seriously, I was just kidding.

T-GT is a great wheel of its kind and I’m happy that I got an opportunity to give this rare piece of a gem a new home

 

[davidt33]

I have another set on my PC as well 👍. And yeah, they're great!

Unfortunately the PS5 won't work that way with my headphones. Once you switch over to them the dongle/headphones take priority over all sound and it can't be output from anywhere else. It's a crazy bad set up on Sony's part . Hopefully they'll get around to patching it so it will be possible to run the dongle and HDMI at the same time. In the mean time I just have to go without the BK when my gaming will annoy the better half .

Yeah it would work same way with the PS5 as the PS4 Slim as both don't have Optical. What you'd need to get is an adapter/extractor similar to the one I mentioned which has ports for HDMI to HDMI + Optical Toslink SPDIF + Analog RCA L/R. One like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Optical-TOSLINK-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06VVTQY8D/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=DotStone+HDMI+Audio+(SPDIF+R/L)+Extractor&qid=1624016159&sr=8-3

For wireless headphones you'd need to get one with a basestation though. You connect the PS4 Slim/ PS5 via its HDMI to the HDMI port on the extractor and connection from there to HDMI port on the TV or Receiver. Optical via it's port on the extractor to wireless headphones basestation. ButtKicker Analog RCA cable to Analog port of extractor.

 

[FPV MIC]

Yeah it would work same way with the PS5 as the PS4 Slim as both don't have Optical. What you'd need to get is an adapter/extractor similar to the one I mentioned which has ports for HDMI to HDMI + Optical Toslink SPDIF + Analog RCA L/R. One like this:

View attachment 1018136
https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Optical-TOSLINK-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06VVTQY8D/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=DotStone+HDMI+Audio+(SPDIF+R/L)+Extractor&qid=1624016159&sr=8-3

For wireless headphones you'd need to get one with a basestation though. You connect the PS4 Slim/ PS5 via its HDMI to the HDMI port on the extractor and connection from there to HDMI port on the TV or Receiver. Optical via it's port on the extractor to wireless headphones basestation. ButtKicker Analog RCA cable to Analog port of extractor.

That may very well work but the trouble for me is that the Pulse 3d dongle for the headset has to plugged into the PS5, and even more specifically the front port (it cuts in out in the rear port), otherwise it doesn't function correctly. From that point on there's no way to output any other signal to the ButtKicker.

 

[davidt33]

That may very well work but the trouble for me is that the Pulse 3d dongle for the headset has to plugged into the PS5, and even more specifically the front port (it cuts in out in the rear port), otherwise it doesn't function correctly. From that point on there's no way to output any other signal to the ButtKicker.

True. That's the problem I had when I previously had the Playstation headphones which wireless connection was via the dongle it came with that had to be connected to one of the PS3/4 USB port. When I bought the ButtKicker to use along with the PS4 I experienced same issue. After contacting ButtKicker customer service (and after some other research too) they recommended getting a wireless headphones that comes with a basestation. The basestation has various ports for connections to console etc. I bought a pretty good one which I still use. That was a couple years ago and that ButtKicker still going strong yes. That is one durable piece of equipment.

 

[FPV MIC]

True. That's the problem I had when I previously had the Playstation headphones which wireless connection was via the dongle it came with that had to be connected to one of the PS3/4 USB port. When I bought the ButtKicker to use along with the PS4 I experienced same issue. After contacting ButtKicker customer service (and after some other research too) they recommended getting a wireless headphones that comes with a basestation. The basestation has various ports for connections to console etc. I bought a pretty good one which I still use. That was a couple years ago and that ButtKicker still going strong yes. That is one durable piece of equipment.

Sony products really suck sometimes with the way they operate!

 

[Philtaylor17]

So, I'm trying a T-GT for the first time, and it feels really "notchy" for want of a better word? Like a G29 ( which i had originally ) but worse? So its a little bit hard to be smooth with small inputs because it feels a bit jumpy, has anyone heard of anything like this before or had any experience of it?

Thanks, Phil

 

[FPV MIC]

So, I'm trying a T-GT for the first time, and it feels really "notchy" for want of a better word? Like a G29 ( which i had originally ) but worse? So its a little bit hard to be smooth with small inputs because it feels a bit jumpy, has anyone heard of anything like this before or had any experience of it?

Thanks, Phil

I've never experienced this with mine but I have heard of a very small number of people complaining of this, but not to the extent that it's worse than a G29. With mine I can barely feel what I'd describe as very fine teeth when it's turned off but once it's powered on that goes away completely.

Sorry I can't be of any real assistance but to me it sounds like one of the belts could be misaligned or faulty, but this is just my best guess. If it's new and been store bought I'd take it back, or open a support ticket with Thrustmaster.

 

[jad_morffier]

Speaking of which, the idea of a second transducer makes me thinking of how to capture the T-DFB signals after the internal amp, making their way to the original transducer.

I’m assuming that the digital T-DFB signal is transformed to a simple analog “audio” stream after some point and that signal could be directed to a second transducer.

Just a thought, but I often find it amusing to play with different ideas 💡

I was hoping by now someone had hacked the T-GT to enable use of that immersion speaker in other sims on PC. You could use it for tire slip detection so you know better where the limit is.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

I was hoping by now someone had hacked the T-GT to enable use of that immersion speaker in other sims on PC. You could use it for tire slip detection so you know better where the limit is.

It's been mentioned multiple times, the T-DFB rumble effect is constant in GT Sport and not related to the physics at all. You won't need it in more serious sims because their laser scanned tracks and better FFB already does a much better job of conveying road feel than the T-DFB system ever could. It's just PD's cheap way of adding road feel to their glassy smooth tracks.

 

[jad_morffier]

It's been mentioned multiple times, the T-DFB rumble effect is constant in GT Sport and not related to the physics at all. You won't need it in more serious sims because their laser scanned tracks and better FFB already does a much better job of conveying road feel than the T-DFB system ever could. It's just PD's cheap way of adding road feel to their glassy smooth tracks.

That's not what I meant. To clarify, there is a speaker there doing nothing if you're not playing anything other than GT Sport. The idea would be to hack it and gain access for usages like a buttkicker or something like that.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

That's not what I meant. To clarify, there is a speaker there doing nothing if you're not playing anything other than GT Sport. The idea would be to hack it and gain access for usages like a buttkicker or something like that.

Well I own a T-GT and I don't notice any speaker at all. The T-DFB transducer does make a slight rumbly noise when active (like thump-thump-thump) but that's a side effect of the wheel base vibrating my rig. As I said it's just a constant effect, not tied to physics at all, so even if you could connect it to a buttkicker it won't help you "feel" the car any better.

 

[FPV MIC]

Well I own a T-GT and I don't notice any speaker at all. The T-DFB transducer does make a slight rumbly noise when active (like thump-thump-thump) but that's a side effect of the wheel base vibrating my rig. As I said it's just a constant effect, not tied to physics at all, so even if you could connect it to a buttkicker it won't help you "feel" the car any better.

Why wouldn't it help you feel the car better? While I feel it would be a tad of an impractical solution I can see no reason why it couldn't be wired up exactly the same as any tactile transducer (to it's own amp, which would have to be the correct power output, that's connected to a PC that has the software to run it... something like SimVibe). @jad_morffier was asking about PC after all, not console. SimVibe can be adjusted to feel any number of different things like tyre slip, abs, etc as long as the PC game supports it... which many do.

In all honesty though @jad_morffier I think it would be a better solution to go for a proper tactile set-up if you're on PC. For starters the transducer would be much better under the seat.

And @LeGeNd-1 I do agree it won't help you 'feel' the car any better in GT Sport or any other console games except as an immersion detail. It's more of a 'road feel' as you previously mentioned. That's the issue of running off of the sound channel I think. PCars 1 was outstanding with my ButtKicker and by far the best experience I've ever had with it on console but it's the exception, not the norm unfortunately. Edit: I do feel a bit more than just the constant effect of the road though with the T-GT, there's also kerb, road joints and a couple of other minor things.

I believe there is a way to set up SimVibe for supported console games (like AC and PCars) as well but I'm lazy so it all looked a bit complicated to me and I gave up on the idea (I run a ButtKicker and T-GT).

 

[jad_morffier]

Well I own a T-GT and I don't notice any speaker at all. The T-DFB transducer does make a slight rumbly noise when active (like thump-thump-thump) but that's a side effect of the wheel base vibrating my rig. As I said it's just a constant effect, not tied to physics at all, so even if you could connect it to a buttkicker it won't help you "feel" the car any better.

In GT Sport for me it does various constant things yes but it also lets you know when you are pushing the limit of the tires. It is very distinct. I've also played GT Sport with a G29 and a CSL Elite and this effect is completely absent. My wish is that someone with the means could tap into that T-DFB transducer giving users the ability to use it for whatever they want. For me it would great to use it to bring that tire limit feel to AC, ACC, iRacing etc. on PC.

@FPV MIC Yes a buttkicker or the like would be much better with added cost and physical setup. But until I have means to purchase said equipment there is a transducer sitting right there doing sweet fa in every other sim/game bar GT Sport. It seems such a waste.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Why wouldn't it help you feel the car better? While I feel it would be a tad of an impractical solution I can see no reason why it couldn't be wired up exactly the same as any tactile transducer (to it's own amp, which would have to be the correct power output, that's connected to a PC that has the software to run it... something like SimVibe). @jad_morffier was asking about PC after all, not console. SimVibe can be adjusted to feel any number of different things like tyre slip, abs, etc as long as the PC game supports it... which many do.

In all honesty though @jad_morffier I think it would be a better solution to go for a proper tactile set-up if you're on PC. For starters the transducer would be much better under the seat.

And @LeGeNd-1 I do agree it won't help you 'feel' the car any better in GT Sport or any other console games except as an immersion detail. It's more of a 'road feel' as you previously mentioned. That's the issue of running off of the sound channel I think. PCars 1 was outstanding with my ButtKicker and by far the best experience I've ever had with it on console but it's the exception, not the norm unfortunately. Edit: I do feel a bit more than just the constant effect of the road though with the T-GT, there's also kerb, road joints and a couple of other minor things.

I believe there is a way to set up SimVibe for supported console games (like AC and PCars) as well but I'm lazy so it all looked a bit complicated to me and I gave up on the idea (I run a ButtKicker and T-GT).

In GT Sport for me it does various constant things yes but it also lets you know when you are pushing the limit of the tires. It is very distinct. I've also played GT Sport with a G29 and a CSL Elite and this effect is completely absent. My wish is that someone with the means could tap into that T-DFB transducer giving users the ability to use it for whatever they want. For me it would great to use it to bring that tire limit feel to AC, ACC, iRacing etc. on PC.

@FPV MIC Yes a buttkicker or the like would be much better with added cost and physical setup. But until I have means to purchase said equipment there is a transducer sitting right there doing sweet fa in every other sim/game bar GT Sport. It seems such a waste.

Because as I said multiple times, the T-DFB rumble is a canned effect. If you don't know what this means, it's basically a preset effect that's just there and independent of the physics or what's happening to your car. I turned it off when playing GT Sport (go to settings and set Controller Vibration to 0) because it actually allows me to feel the underlying FFB better (which still isn't great, but at least it's not muddled by the constant vibration). I don't need extra vibration giving me road feel when there is nothing to feel on the road. It's just not useful information to help me go faster. I don't really care about immersion. I hope that makes sense.

In PC sims like Automobilista and AC/ACC, even without the T-DFB effect the game's laser scanned tracks and much better FFB already gives me MUCH better inherent road feel than GTS+TDFB, so I don't miss this feature at all. In fact, back when I still used my G25, I still get better road feel with it on PC sims than I do on GTS with TGT.

GT is just not that great because their tracks are smooth as glass, and no amount of hardware is going to fix that, even if you have a direct drive wheel.

If you want tactile feedback on PC sims, then it's probably best to get a proper buttkicker as mentioned above.

 

[jad_morffier]

Because as I said multiple times, the T-DFB rumble is a canned effect. If you don't know what this means, it's basically a preset effect that's just there and independent of the physics or what's happening to your car. I turned it off when playing GT Sport (go to settings and set Controller Vibration to 0) because it actually allows me to feel the underlying FFB better (which still isn't great, but at least it's not muddled by the constant vibration). I don't need extra vibration giving me road feel when there is nothing to feel on the road. It's just not useful information to help me go faster. I don't really care about immersion. I hope that makes sense.

In PC sims like Automobilista and AC/ACC, even without the T-DFB effect the game's laser scanned tracks and much better FFB already gives me MUCH better inherent road feel than GTS+TDFB, so I don't miss this feature at all. In fact, back when I still used my G25, I still get better road feel with it on PC sims than I do on GTS with TGT.

GT is just not that great because their tracks are smooth as glass, and no amount of hardware is going to fix that, even if you have a direct drive wheel.

If you want tactile feedback on PC sims, then it's probably best to get a proper buttkicker as mentioned above.

If you genuinely believe the T-DFB rumble is just a canned effect, I think your T-GT might be faulty or your setup is different to mine because I'm having a very different experience. In GTS I get all sorts of different tyre slips, judders, slides, skids etc (the physics of what the tyres are doing) through the T-DFB, and very separate from the FFB. It doesn't override or muddy the FFB at all. There is a distinct difference between the various T-DFB rumbles and the FFB. Neither of them takes away anything from the other.

If it was just a canned effect I would have sold the T-GT a long time ago.

 

[FPV MIC]

Because as I said multiple times, the T-DFB rumble is a canned effect. If you don't know what this means, it's basically a preset effect that's just there and independent of the physics or what's happening to your car. I turned it off when playing GT Sport (go to settings and set Controller Vibration to 0) because it actually allows me to feel the underlying FFB better (which still isn't great, but at least it's not muddled by the constant vibration). I don't need extra vibration giving me road feel when there is nothing to feel on the road. It's just not useful information to help me go faster. I don't really care about immersion. I hope that makes sense.

In PC sims like Automobilista and AC/ACC, even without the T-DFB effect the game's laser scanned tracks and much better FFB already gives me MUCH better inherent road feel than GTS+TDFB, so I don't miss this feature at all. In fact, back when I still used my G25, I still get better road feel with it on PC sims than I do on GTS with TGT.

GT is just not that great because their tracks are smooth as glass, and no amount of hardware is going to fix that, even if you have a direct drive wheel.

If you want tactile feedback on PC sims, then it's probably best to get a proper buttkicker as mentioned above.

Actually, this is the first time you've mentioned canned so I'm not sure how you've mentioned it multiple times. Previously you described it as constant which is not even close to the same, because yes, I do know what canned means in relation to FFB.

Also, just as an FYI (you may know this already), AC, ACC and Automobilista all use canned effects that people are often using unknowingly. Fair chance a lot of other PC sim games do over and above just using the physics engine as well. The use of canned effects is something that's not necessarily bad, just a personal choice.

@jad_morffier I don't feel as many different things as you are but I know my rig needs stiffening up so I don't expect the most out of my T-TG at this stage. I'm probably half way between yours and @LeGeNd-1's description. But I do agree with @LeGeNd-1 that many other games are superior to GTS in feel and communicating different effects without using a T-DFB.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

If you genuinely believe the T-DFB rumble is just a canned effect, I think your T-GT might be faulty or your setup is different to mine because I'm having a very different experience. In GTS I get all sorts of different tyre slips, judders, slides, skids etc (the physics of what the tyres are doing) through the T-DFB, and very separate from the FFB. It doesn't override or muddy the FFB at all. There is a distinct difference between the various T-DFB rumbles and the FFB. Neither of them takes away anything from the other.

If it was just a canned effect I would have sold the T-GT a long time ago.

All those things you're feeling are just from the base FFB. Trust me, I've compared driving with the T-DFB on or off multiple times for a few months and decided with it turned off because it adds precisely zero info to my driving than just a constant rumble. Try driving without it for a month or so (to get used to the lack of rumble). You'll still be able to feel understeer/oversteer/weight transfer, maybe even better than before If you don't like it, then you can always turn it on again.

Actually, this is the first time you've mentioned canned so I'm not sure how you've mentioned it multiple times. Previously you described it as constant which is not even close to the same, because yes, I do know what canned means in relation to FFB.

Also, just as an FYI (you may know this already), AC, ACC and Automobilista all use canned effects that people are often using unknowingly. Fair chance a lot of other PC sim games do over and above just using the physics engine as well. The use of canned effects is something that's not necessarily bad, just a personal choice.

@jad_morffier I don't feel as many different things as you are but I know my rig needs stiffening up so I don't expect the most out of my T-TG at this stage. I'm probably half way between yours and @LeGeNd-1's description. But I do agree with @LeGeNd-1 that many other games are superior to GTS in feel and communicating different effects without using a T-DFB.

My understanding is that any effect that is not tied to the physics = canned. Fair enough I didn't use the word canned before this, but I was saying for a few posts before that it's not tied to the physics.

I don't know if you've played ISImotor sims, but they have 4 levels of FFB settings (Low, Med, High, Full). Most people don't know and just assume more is better, so they put it in Full (including me when I first started). But actually, all the info you need to assess car behaviour is already there in Low (tyre grip + steering rack forces). Med/High/Full just adds various "artificial" rumble effects like kerbs, brake/engine vibration.

Force Feedback Tweaking Guide for Simbin Games

Julien Regnard v1.0 Disclaimer (a tradition as soon as it deals with hardware): I assume no responsibility for any damage. Don't forget that the energy you spend turning the wheel always end mostly as friction heat and gears ageing. Too strong and jerky FFB will shorten the life of your wheel...

simracing.fandom.com

I do know AC/ACC also has settings for extra effects (like the Enhanced Understeer and the road feel slider). I have all of them turned off, because I just like the purest FFB from the tyres and steering rack. In real life you get all these other sensations from your butt and the car's vertical movement, not from the steering wheel. Some people like to add in these forces to their wheel to compensate, but for me I drive just fine without it and consider it more a hindrance. If we ever get to the point that motion rigs become cheap enough for home use, then I might reconsider. But at the moment I'm happy enough without it.

At the end of the day it's personal preference as you said But I'm just questioning jad's logic of using the T-GT's signals to try add tactile immersion when there are far easier ways to do so (and even if you can get it to work, IMHO it won't help him feel the car any better). And also wanting to use it in PC sims when they are already superior in FFB even without it.

Good video on the topic if you have some time to spend (made by the guy behind Automobilista's physics). Summary from 42.00 onwards and discussion about bumps from 45.30.