Thrustmaster T-GT Wheel Thread

[LeGeNd-1]

If I were you I would try this modification:
https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/742...quick-change?ref=shop_home_feat_3&frs=1&bes=1

This mod will make the connection between the steering wheel and the shaft tighter. Of course, there is no guarantee that it will solve the problem, but the modification is not expensive and worth a try.

Interesting. I would think that the 6 pin connectors are quite secure already in their little holes. I did have issues with the quick release coming loose when I first bought the wheel, but that's because I didn't tighten the little screw tightly enough. It's pretty rock solid now and I can guarantee it doesn't move. Do you think this modification makes it even more secure than that?

 

[super_gt]

This tells me that the QR connection between the steering wheel and the steering wheel shaft is not as tight as you think, but I may be wrong.

If I'm really smooth and be really careful not to tug the steering towards me it's ok, but sometimes rough movements are unavoidable when driving on the limit.

Do you think this modification makes it even more secure than that?

Yes, because you can apply a lot more pressure during the tightening of the QR.
If this modification was expensive I would refrain from giving you advice, but at this price of $20 it's worth a try.

 

[RafalDybek]

Hello everyone. I have a TM T-GT wheel for 2 months. I play 95% in GT Sport. 3 times it happened to me that during the game the steering wheel lost calibration and remained skewed by a dozen degrees. As I turned the power off and on, the steering calibrated again and everything was ok. Has anyone had such a situation and GT Sport using the T-GT? On some WTS tracks, depending on the car and tires, the FFB setting at 3 cuts in slip. Is it supposed to be this way?

 

[LeGeNd-1]

This tells me that the QR connection between the steering wheel and the steering wheel shaft is not as tight as you think, but I may be wrong.


Yes, because you can apply a lot more pressure during the tightening of the QR.
If this modification was expensive I would refrain from giving you advice, but at this price of $20 it's worth a try.

The mod just arrived today. Installed it and spent a few hours playing and it seems to have cured the problem. No random button presses even with high FFB and hard countersteering.

I was skeptical at first because the ring just sits on the collar/hub and the "horns" just give you extra leverage to tighten it. After fully tightening, the hole where the old screw would've been in is exactly at the same place relative to the rim (I marked the place beforehand). So I'm not sure how this magic ring tightens the QR more than I already did. Especially since there's no screw to hold it in place, I expected it to loosen itself with every steering movement. It's like held together by magic But hey if it works, it works. Thanks, super_gt 👍

 

[super_gt]

The mod just arrived today. Installed it and spent a few hours playing and it seems to have cured the problem. No random button presses even with high FFB and hard countersteering.

I was skeptical at first because the ring just sits on the collar/hub and the "horns" just give you extra leverage to tighten it. After fully tightening, the hole where the old screw would've been in is exactly at the same place relative to the rim (I marked the place beforehand). So I'm not sure how this magic ring tightens the QR more than I already did. Especially since there's no screw to hold it in place, I expected it to loosen itself with every steering movement. It's like held together by magic But hey if it works, it works. Thanks, super_gt 👍

I was very scared when I saw that you quoted my post in latest alerts, but reading your post now i am very happy for you. 👍

 

[AlexRacing]

The mod just arrived today. Installed it and spent a few hours playing and it seems to have cured the problem. No random button presses even with high FFB and hard countersteering.

I was skeptical at first because the ring just sits on the collar/hub and the "horns" just give you extra leverage to tighten it. After fully tightening, the hole where the old screw would've been in is exactly at the same place relative to the rim (I marked the place beforehand). So I'm not sure how this magic ring tightens the QR more than I already did. Especially since there's no screw to hold it in place, I expected it to loosen itself with every steering movement. It's like held together by magic But hey if it works, it works. Thanks, super_gt 👍

Random button presses can be fixed by the following simple mod. It also helps to do not use screw. I made it from RAM plastic package:

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Random button presses can be fixed by the following simple mod. It also helps to do not use screw. I made it from RAM plastic package:View attachment 913972 View attachment 913973 View attachment 913974 View attachment 913975

Thanks, I'll keep it in mind if the problem returns. So far so good with the quick release ring *touch wood*

How does your mod prevent random button presses?

 

[AlexRacing]

How does your mod prevent random button presses?

Random button presses occur when a steering wheel has backlash. It plays a little bit relative to shaft on the base. It not noticeable, but it is. Over time steering wheel begining to loose contact with shaft. Most of games developed to pause when they loose controller connection, perhaps random button presses occur when connection is lost partially on some controller channel. This mod makes shaft on the base and steering wheel one and the same. They become like joined together in one piece.

Forgot to mention. To fix random button presses also helpful to tight two screws inside a shaft, that is visible on third picture, as well as tight the similar screws inside a steering wheel.https://context.reverso.net/перевод/английский-русский/one+and+the+same

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Random button presses occur when a steering wheel has backlash. It plays a little bit relative to shaft on the base. It not noticeable, but it is. Over time steering wheel begining to loose contact with shaft. Most of games developed to pause when they loose controller connection, perhaps random button presses occur when connection is lost partially on some controller channel. This mod makes shaft on the base and steering wheel one and the same. They become like joined together in one piece.

Forgot to mention. To fix random button presses also helpful to tight two screws inside a shaft, that is visible on third picture, as well as tight the similar screws inside a steering wheel.

That explains why I often get the random button press during quick countersteer situations, or coming off banked turns, as that increases the chance of backlash. Weirdly this problem is a lot more frequent in GT Sport than other games, in the order of 10x more. I wonder if the threshold for a button press is a lot more sensitive in GT. I've tried tightening the screws inside the shaft and on the back of the wheel, nothing helped until the QR ring mod.

Just looking at the pictures I'm still struggling to visualise how the 2 pieces of plastic keeps the wheel together. Does it just sit there or do you need to glue them in place?

 

[Goonie75]

That explains why I often get the random button press during quick countersteer situations, or coming off banked turns, as that increases the chance of backlash. Weirdly this problem is a lot more frequent in GT Sport than other games, in the order of 10x more. I wonder if the threshold for a button press is a lot more sensitive in GT. I've tried tightening the screws inside the shaft and on the back of the wheel, nothing helped until the QR ring mod.

Just looking at the pictures I'm still struggling to visualise how the 2 pieces of plastic keeps the wheel together. Does it just sit there or do you need to glue them in place?

I would assume the plastic pieces reduces the tolerances of the mass produced components and removes play, therefore improving the contact of the connector in the QR.

 

[ivann]

so this happened last night
on lap 10,11,12,13 i had what I suppose is random button presses
first 9 laps nothing and the last lap nothing
always at the same corner
and on lap 13 some really weird s*** happened
timestamps for laps 11,12,13 are 37:55, 40:03, 42:13 (also in video description)

 

[AlexRacing]

Just looking at the pictures I'm still struggling to visualise how the 2 pieces of plastic keeps the wheel together. Does it just sit there or do you need to glue them in place?

It is no need to use any glue. Goonie75 explained right.

The only side effect of this mod is a little harder to attach a wheel to a shaft on a base. But this also means this mod reduces wheel play quite well.

 

[John G]

Quick question on the t-gt, does it have the extra wires hidden behind the wheel like the t300rs to add static shifters? Google does not have the answer

 

[FPV MIC]

Quick question on the t-gt, does it have the extra wires hidden behind the wheel like the t300rs to add static shifters? Google does not have the answer

They don't appear to be there in this video. The time stamp is on the appropriate section.

 

[John G]

They don't appear to be there in this video. The time stamp is on the appropriate section.

Thanks for digging this out and the time stamp.👍

Unfortunately this plus something else i just saw in that video on the mounting means that the t-gt won't work for me, I'll have to stick with the T300RS

 

[Ashthebash]

Has anyone else had their T-GT 'stick' on start up? Mine has started doing it intermittently, sticking to the left. If I coax it back to the right it'll start up as normal but I can hear a little knocking noise as if it's trying to turn to the right but not catching something, then it'll have a couple of days when it starts up just fine.

Thrustmaster have currently wasted a week telling me to update the firmware (I don't have the equipment to do this), suggesting the PS4 update a couple of weeks ago is what's causing the wheel to stick on start up, starting to 🤬 me off

 

[FPV MIC]

Has anyone else had their T-GT 'stick' on start up? Mine has started doing it intermittently, sticking to the left. If I coax it back to the right it'll start up as normal but I can hear a little knocking noise as if it's trying to turn to the right but not catching something, then it'll have a couple of days when it starts up just fine.

Thrustmaster have currently wasted a week telling me to update the firmware (I don't have the equipment to do this), suggesting the PS4 update a couple of weeks ago is what's causing the wheel to stick on start up, starting to 🤬 me off

Yes, I've had that exact same issue... and updating the firmware fixed it. It happened to me after a PS4 update as well.

My friend doesn't have the right equipment either so he just brings his base to my house and I update it for him. Perhaps you could do something similar (if you're not too heavily locked down where you are)? Or maybe you have a friend with a laptop that would bring it around to your house? If you have a Mac I believe there's ways to install some sort of virtual PC on it and that works for some people.

 

[Ashthebash]

Yes, I've had that exact same issue... and updating the firmware fixed it. It happened to me after a PS4 update as well.

My friend doesn't have the right equipment either so he just brings his base to my house and I update it for him. Perhaps you could do something similar (if you're not too heavily locked down where you are)? Or maybe you have a friend with a laptop that would bring it around to your house? If you have a Mac I believe there's ways to install some sort of virtual PC on it and that works for some people.

Yeah lockdown is restricting it at the moment. Think half the reason I'm annoyed at them is my ticket got opened for a brake pedal issue a month ago, then the wheel started sticking so I brought that up (as obviously I don't want that to be the start of another issue), and while they've been repeating themselves to update the firmware it's not been fixing my brake pedal!

Would have helped if they'd said this has happened to a number of PS4 users after updates though, rather than just constantly repeat themselves! Thanks for your reply

 

[FPV MIC]

Yeah lockdown is restricting it at the moment. Think half the reason I'm annoyed at them is my ticket got opened for a brake pedal issue a month ago, then the wheel started sticking so I brought that up (as obviously I don't want that to be the start of another issue), and while they've been repeating themselves to update the firmware it's not been fixing my brake pedal!

Would have helped if they'd said this has happened to a number of PS4 users after updates though, rather than just constantly repeat themselves! Thanks for your reply

👍 No worries.

I always go with an firmware update first, but it never hurts to put in a ticket to Technical Support, especially if your wheel is still under warranty. Then if that fails to fix my problem I come and ask here.

What's your problem with your brake pedal? Perhaps someone here can help.

 

[Ashthebash]

👍 No worries.

I always go with an firmware update first, but it never hurts to put in a ticket to Technical Support, especially if your wheel is still under warranty. Then if that fails to fix my problem I come and ask here.

What's your problem with your brake pedal? Perhaps someone here can help.

I did put something on here when it started, actually thought it was the mod after trying it with and without it, as it turns out the mod was highlighting the problem rather than causing it.

Noticed during a race I was over shooting corners randomly and by a mile. Up to about 50% braking it works fine, then once you start to brake harder than that the brake display (on GT Sport) starts 'bouncing' and is inconsistent until you get up to 100%. One clip I recorded I'm pushing around 80% and the brake decides to bounce around while increasing then settles at 30%! So as you can imagine, trying to brake at anywhere between say 50-80% it was a matter of time until I barrelled through a corner with little or no braking! I sent videos to Thrustmaster and they've said they'll take the pedals in, with it possibly being the potentiometer

 

[FPV MIC]

I did put something on here when it started, actually thought it was the mod after trying it with and without it, as it turns out the mod was highlighting the problem rather than causing it.

Noticed during a race I was over shooting corners randomly and by a mile. Up to about 50% braking it works fine, then once you start to brake harder than that the brake display (on GT Sport) starts 'bouncing' and is inconsistent until you get up to 100%. One clip I recorded I'm pushing around 80% and the brake decides to bounce around while increasing then settles at 30%! So as you can imagine, trying to brake at anywhere between say 50-80% it was a matter of time until I barrelled through a corner with little or no braking! I sent videos to Thrustmaster and they've said they'll take the pedals in, with it possibly being the potentiometer

From your description I think TM are right, it sounds like it's either a dirty or faulty pot. Cleaning them isn't hard but if you still have warranty it's better to get TM to fix them.

 

[weescotman]

Hi guys, I have an issue where the power pack cable from wheel to base has broken inside. Don't think my wheels under warrenty any more and need to source a new power pack.

 

[FPV MIC]

Hi guys, I have an issue where the power pack cable from wheel to base has broken inside. Don't think my wheels under warrenty any more and need to source a new power pack.

I'm not sure about in your region but in mine we can buy it as a separate unit from the wheel.
https://www.gamesmen.com.au/thrustm...MIiLa-1szh6QIVCq6WCh131geQEAQYASABEgLNtvD_BwE

If you can't find one try emailing Thrustmaster. It's a bit of a process of back and forth emails but I've been able to buy spares direct from them before. Or maybe a local electronics store could repair/replace the faulty cable?

 

[weescotman]

I'm not sure about in your region but in mine we can buy it as a separate unit from the wheel.
https://www.gamesmen.com.au/thrustm...MIiLa-1szh6QIVCq6WCh131geQEAQYASABEgLNtvD_BwE

If you can't find one try emailing Thrustmaster. It's a bit of a process of back and forth emails but I've been able to buy spares direct from them before. Or maybe a local electronics store could repair/replace the faulty cable?

Gamesmen were the only place online that I could find that had the power pack separate, sadly tho they don't post to Scotland, I emailed and asked them nicely.
Fingers crossed thrustmaster come back to me with a solution.

 

[FPV MIC]

Gamesmen were the only place online that I could find that had the power pack separate, sadly tho they don't post to Scotland, I emailed and asked them nicely.
Fingers crossed thrustmaster come back to me with a solution.

You'll have to go through the standard Thrustmaster process. Even if you tell them your wheel is out of warranty in your first email, you'll probably still have to send a copy of your receipt only to get the reply ''your wheel is out of warranty''. No **** TM . Then, after wasting a week or so, you can start the process of getting what you're after.

Good luck, I hope you don't get the same long process that I have in the past.

 

[davidt33]

Gamesmen were the only place online that I could find that had the power pack separate, sadly tho they don't post to Scotland, I emailed and asked them nicely.
Fingers crossed thrustmaster come back to me with a solution.

Do you have any courier/package forwarding services or companies in Scotland that may have branches in USA or wherever Thrustmaster may ship to?.....and they (couriers/shippers in turn can ship to you, clear and deliver?) If so that might be an option.

Mentioning this because I live in the Caribbean and since most stuff I purchase online mainly ship within the US I use that type of service. I would order whatever and have it shipped to the US courier company (which is their main branch I think). They would receive package, ship to my country, their branch in my country receives.... take care of clearing Customs etc....and deliver to me. Wondering if you can do the same.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Welp, one problem solved, another pops up. The left analog stick on my wheel is moving the cursor on screen by itself in GT Sport. Usually I have to unplug and replug the wheel to cure it, but sometimes it comes back. During driving I can just assign no function to the stick, but in the menus obviously you can't and it drives me nuts.

Any suggestions folks? Is there an easy fix like blocking one of the 6-pin connectors on the wheel hub so you get no input from the analog sticks at all? I never use it so I don't mind losing its function entirely. Anything that involves taking apart the wheel is probably too much for me though.

 

[weescotman]

My problems been solved by thrustmaster, I've to send the base and power pack back to them as they opened an rma for it. Thanks for the ideas on how to help guys.

 

[FPV MIC]

Welp, one problem solved, another pops up. The left analog stick on my wheel is moving the cursor on screen by itself in GT Sport. Usually I have to unplug and replug the wheel to cure it, but sometimes it comes back. During driving I can just assign no function to the stick, but in the menus obviously you can't and it drives me nuts.

Any suggestions folks? Is there an easy fix like blocking one of the 6-pin connectors on the wheel hub so you get no input from the analog sticks at all? I never use it so I don't mind losing its function entirely. Anything that involves taking apart the wheel is probably too much for me though.

I've had that issue a while back (exactly the same, the cursor was constantly drifting across the screen and only in Gt Sport) and a driver + firmware update fixed it. No idea why it fixed it but the small issues I've had has been fixed this way (the other time was when the wheel didn't calibrate properly on start up. It would spin to the left, stall and then needed a slight push to get it to rotate to back to the right).

 

[LeGeNd-1]

I've had that issue a while back (exactly the same, the cursor was constantly drifting across the screen and only in Gt Sport) and a driver + firmware update fixed it. No idea why it fixed it but the small issues I've had has been fixed this way (the other time was when the wheel didn't calibrate properly on start up. It would spin to the left, stall and then needed a slight push to get it to rotate to back to the right).

Both my wheel base and rim are already on the latest firmware. It's really weird how most of these issues only crops up in GTS though. Like the random button presses earlier, and the cursor drift. If I'm playing on PC I don't get it at all (or very very rarely). It's almost like GTS is just too sensitive to inputs. This week it's been behaving though *touch wood*.

I use a Ricmotech adapter to connect my old G25 pedals to the T-GT and with GTS I also get lots of throttle flickering (bless the pots, they are near 12 years old now). A few sprays of contact cleaner usually cures it, but within a week it returns. But when I'm playing on Assetto on PC, it's perfect stable throttle input, no flickers at all.