Thrustmaster T-GT Wheel Thread

[FPV MIC]

Both my wheel base and rim are already on the latest firmware. It's really weird how most of these issues only crops up in GTS though. Like the random button presses earlier, and the cursor drift. If I'm playing on PC I don't get it at all (or very very rarely). It's almost like GTS is just too sensitive to inputs. This week it's been behaving though *touch wood*.

I use a Ricmotech adapter to connect my old G25 pedals to the T-GT and with GTS I also get lots of throttle flickering (bless the pots, they are near 12 years old now). A few sprays of contact cleaner usually cures it, but within a week it returns. But when I'm playing on Assetto on PC, it's perfect stable throttle input, no flickers at all.

I only ever really noticed the cursor issue in GT Sport as well, and it was after an game update. Both of my two issues were after updates, although my second issue was after a console update.

 

[Ashthebash]

Seen it mentioned about the 'random button pressing' on GT Sport. Got the firmware updated the weekend and it worked fine... initially. Now it's worse than ever for the random buttons. Sent me back to the PS homepage three times and restarted my run once, all within about half an hour. Anyone know what this problem is or how to fix it?

Thanks

 

[MatskiMonk]

Seen it mentioned about the 'random button pressing' on GT Sport. Got the firmware updated the weekend and it worked fine... initially. Now it's worse than ever for the random buttons. Sent me back to the PS homepage three times and restarted my run once, all within about half an hour. Anyone know what this problem is or how to fix it?

Thanks

I doubt it's this, but I thought I'd post about a recent experience when my T-GT pedals appeared to be randomly braking for me in GT Sport. Couldn't figure out what was going on... the on screen indicator was showing I was constantly braking between about 1% and 5%. I checked everything over and just assumed it was a dodgy component in the brake pedal....

... turns out it was my controller (both are active when I play), wedged against a cushion on my sofa, with the trigger slightly pressed.

I was relieved it wasn't an issue with the pedals!

 

[ivann]

my understanding is that connector starts to play after quick release loses its grip (no wonder because of that violent calibration)
I tightened qr as much as I could with hands, and drilled 2 new holes for screws, up and down
no problems since, also didnt mess with firmware..

 

[Ashthebash]

I doubt it's this, but I thought I'd post about a recent experience when my T-GT pedals appeared to be randomly braking for me in GT Sport. Couldn't figure out what was going on... the on screen indicator was showing I was constantly braking between about 1% and 5%. I checked everything over and just assumed it was a dodgy component in the brake pedal....

... turns out it was my controller (both are active when I play), wedged against a cushion on my sofa, with the trigger slightly pressed.

I was relieved it wasn't an issue with the pedals!

Haha bet it was a huge relief! My controller is always off but it hasn't stopped me checking and double checking that it isn't interfering (like moving the controller to the opposite corner of the house!)

my understanding is that connector starts to play after quick release loses its grip (no wonder because of that violent calibration)
I tightened qr as much as I could with hands, and drilled 2 new holes for screws, up and down
no problems since, also didnt mess with firmware..

Ah thanks, to be fair I also had the issue of the wheel sticking to the left on start up and the firmware has definitely sorted that out. Been reading around for tips so will take the wheel off, give it a clean and tighten it right back up - I'm not drilling any new holes in it though (yet)!

 

[FPV MIC]

Haha bet it was a huge relief! My controller is always off but it hasn't stopped me checking and double checking that it isn't interfering (like moving the controller to the opposite corner of the house!)


Ah thanks, to be fair I also had the issue of the wheel sticking to the left on start up and the firmware has definitely sorted that out. Been reading around for tips so will take the wheel off, give it a clean and tighten it right back up - I'm not drilling any new holes in it though (yet)!

If you do't want to drill holes there's always the product in @super_gt's quote below. It worked for @LeGeNd-1 when he got one.

If I were you I would try this modification:
https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/742...quick-change?ref=shop_home_feat_3&frs=1&bes=1



This mod will make the connection between the steering wheel and the shaft tighter. Of course, there is no guarantee that it will solve the problem, but the modification is not expensive and worth a try.

Is it still holding with no issues @LeGeNd-1?

 

[Ashthebash]

If you do't want to drill holes there's always the product in @super_gt's quote below. It worked for @LeGeNd-1 when he got one.



Is it still holding with no issues @LeGeNd-1?

Thanks I'll look into that. Still under warranty so no new holes just yet!

 

[LeGeNd-1]

If you do't want to drill holes there's always the product in @super_gt's quote below. It worked for @LeGeNd-1 when he got one.



Is it still holding with no issues @LeGeNd-1?

Yep, that did the trick for me. Still holding strong, haven't even needed to tighten the ring since I installed it 👍

 

[nosoks]

shortly after I got my TGT last year I started getting a very annoying clicking from the clutch pedal. I got some needle nose pliers in there and gave the spring a bit of a twist. ... problem solved. Just started again the other day same fix worked fine.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Random button presses can be fixed by the following simple mod. It also helps to do not use screw. I made it from RAM plastic package:View attachment 913972 View attachment 913973 View attachment 913974 View attachment 913975

Random button press acting up again, even with the tightener collar. I got fed up and tried this fix (replacing the plastic with a suitably thick cardboard I found lying around the house). Testing so far so good. Touch wood this finally fixes the problem once and for all.

 

[nosoks]

on random button presses, have you snugged up all the allen screws on the face and the 8 phillips screws on the back side? I did that and all the buttons are back to original positive clicks and full function

 

[LeGeNd-1]

on random button presses, have you snugged up all the allen screws on the face and the 8 phillips screws on the back side? I did that and all the buttons are back to original positive clicks and full function

Thanks for the suggestion, but it was one of the first things I tried on the previous page. Didn't work unfortunately.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Had a bit of a weird issue with my T-GT the other day. After playing GT Sport for about an hour, I left it plugged in while I watched a replay to analyze the race I just had. I do this all the time and never had any issues usually. Around half an hour later, the wheel suddenly turned all the way left (like its calibrating when you first plugged it in, but it doesn't re-center). Then 10 seconds later I smelled something burning and heard a crackling noise from inside the wheelbase. Out of fear from the motor lunching itself, I quickly unplugged the wheel from the PS4. Let it cool down for a few minutes, then replugged it. Everything works fine, FFB doesn't feel any different than usual. It's been almost a week since and everything is fine.

I'm thinking a short circuit of some sort? Can't think of why because I didn't really abuse the wheel that session to mess up the insides. Since it's fine now what are the chances of it happening again? Should I be worried and take it to support before it gets worse? I'd only do it as a last resort because I've heard bad things about TM support and I don't wanna be without a wheel for an extended amount of time...

 

[Klik]

Has T-GT been discontinued or what? Can't find new one for last 3 months. Its unavailable everywhere in EU

 

[Odiesback]

Tried to do a forum search but couldn't find the search button!

My T-GT gas pedal stopping working completely. Pulled the cables out, re-started it few times and nothing. Brake pedal and wheel controls are working just fine.

I don't remember ever doing a firmware update... any thoughts? Thanks

 

[FPV MIC]

Tried to do a forum search but couldn't find the search button!

My T-GT gas pedal stopping working completely. Pulled the cables out, re-started it few times and nothing. Brake pedal and wheel controls are working just fine.

I don't remember ever doing a firmware update... any thoughts? Thanks

Try pressing the clutch pedal to see if that operates as the accelerator. It could be that you've accidently pressed the mode button and swapped the pedals. If this is the case then press and hold the mode button for two seconds and it will switch back. The light will change colour too.

 

[Odiesback]

Try pressing the clutch pedal to see if that operates as the accelerator. It could be that you've accidently pressed the mode button and swapped the pedals. If this is the case then press and hold the mode button for two seconds and it will switch back. The light will change colour too.

Wow! I didn’t even know that you could switch the pedal inputs!

I did as you suggested, I held the button down for 2 seconds and the color changed to green and my clutch became the gas... I then reversed the mode to red light and then nothing... the gas pedal is totally unresponsive.

Thanks for the help. If you can think of anything else it would be of great help.

 

[Leggacy]

Wow! I didn’t even know that you could switch the pedal inputs!

I did as you suggested, I held the button down for 2 seconds and the color changed to green and my clutch became the gas... I then reversed the mode to red light and then nothing... the gas pedal is totally unresponsive.

Thanks for the help. If you can think of anything else it would be of great help.

The other mode is for the inverted T3PA pro pedals

 

[FPV MIC]

Wow! I didn’t even know that you could switch the pedal inputs!

I did as you suggested, I held the button down for 2 seconds and the color changed to green and my clutch became the gas... I then reversed the mode to red light and then nothing... the gas pedal is totally unresponsive.

Thanks for the help. If you can think of anything else it would be of great help.

Did the clutch pedal work properly as the accelerator when you swapped them over? If it did then it could just be a potentiometer issue.

 

[Odiesback]

Did the clutch pedal work properly as the accelerator when you swapped them over? If it did then it could just be a potentiometer issue.

it did. - if the potentiometer, how do I go about to get this fixed? A DIY job? Thank you.., I am not well versed with the internals of this thing

 

[FPV MIC]

it did. - if the potentiometer, how do I go about to get this fixed? A DIY job? Thank you.., I am not well versed with the internals of this thing

Edit: One other thing I forgot to ask, is it still under warranty? In some countries it's two years and if this happens to be the case then disregard everything I've written below and take the sucker back. If not, then read on.

The first thing you can try is checking for loose wires, and failing that cleaning the potentiometer with a small amount of a proper electrical cleaner. I very much doubt this will help because you normally get warning signs (pedal spiking) but it's worth a go. Something like https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p...D-tjX-_m2gjvXOHtLShoC5LMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds.

You don't have to pull the pedals down as far as in this shot as you can get to them by only taking the base off. I'd recommend watching the video I linked below as there's a wire connected from the top section to the base plate that you don't want to break.

Like this but go a bit easier with the spray.


If that doesn't work you can always just swap the whole accelerator module out with the clutch one as they're both the same.

 

[Odiesback]

Edit: One other thing I forgot to ask, is it still under warranty? In some countries it's two years and if this happens to be the case then disregard everything I've written below and take the sucker back. If not, then read on.

The first thing you can try is checking for loose wires, and failing that cleaning the potentiometer with a small amount of a proper electrical cleaner. I very much doubt this will help because you normally get warning signs (pedal spiking) but it's worth a go. Something like https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p...D-tjX-_m2gjvXOHtLShoC5LMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds.

You don't have to pull the pedals down as far as in this shot as you can get to them by only taking the base off. I'd recommend watching the video I linked below as there's a wire connected from the top section to the base plate that you don't want to break.

View attachment 998659

Like this but go a bit easier with the spray.


If that doesn't work you can always just swap the whole accelerator module out with the clutch one as they're both the same.

@FPV MIC thank you so much for taking the time to help a fellow Planeteer! Very kind of you!

Mine is out of warranty and I will carefully follow the steps you provide over the weekend. Will let you know!

Thanks again!

 

[FPV MIC]

@FPV MIC thank you so much for taking the time to help a fellow Planeteer! Very kind of you!

Mine is out of warranty and I will carefully follow the steps you provide over the weekend. Will let you know!

Thanks again!

Happy to help, all the best for the weekend and if you run into any troubles you know where to come

 

[Odiesback]

@FPV MIC Today I took the time to watch the videos and tackle this issue!

A while back the spring in my brake pedal snapped in half and I swapped the spring from the clutch pedal with the brake. So I had opened the pedal base apart before.

Once I started inspecting the pedal modules I noticed that the potentiometer gears were not aligned with the pedal ones. Somehow the pedal gears snapped out of the gears as in picture below:

so I played with it little, aligned the gears as in other pedals, tested few times and WORKED! - then the rest was putting it all back together!

back in business. So far so good!

Again, thank you for your help! So relieved that I didn’t have to swap the modules!

cheers and race on!

UPDATE: it seems like I have to reopen it again... now the throttle is on even with the pedal at rest. But glad to know is more of an adjustment than anything being broke.

UPDATE 2: ended up swapping the gas and clutch pedals as a whole since I do not use the clutch pedal. Just had to also switch the connectors inside the base and voila! Got a brand new gas pedal entirely!
Tested it and it feels just like out of the box!

for those who run Vito similar issues, this threat might help.

 

[anthonyfa18]

It doesnt unfortunately. You can navigate the menu’s, but no FFB in game. I believe the t300 has a ps3 and ps4 mode. Hopefully the driverhub will support T-GT! I also like me some GT6

Can u use a drive hub to make the T-GT work on ps3 to play GT 5 and 6 and if u have have a Backwards compatible ps3 to play GT 3 and 4 too ??

 

[Papzen66]

*How to verify that the T-DFB transducer is working?*

Hello,

I just found and purchased a second hand T-GT wheel last week and the wheel is great!
With all the T-LCM pedals, Sparco 383 rim and TH8A shifter, I just settle down for a while and be happy with the PS4 compatibility.

I could just have waited for the new Fanatec CSL DD to crash into the market at q3 this year 2021.
I’m aware of that CSL DD is not PlayStation compatible, but the point is that the second hand wheel market will probably be over saturated of interesting wheel sets when the new Fanatic is available.

Now to the topic, the very weak or nonexistent T-DFB effects.

-It is quite possible that my Wheel Stand Pro it self is dampening the transducer delivered frequencies away.
(The wheel stand is solid and has become quite heavy with t-lcm and shifter attached)
-Dead transducer?
-In GT Sport settings there is not much to be found but maybe I’m missing some setting or procedure?

I have reseted and updated the firmware.
GT-mode is enabled in the wheelbase before I switch the console power on.

Any ideas would be appreciated please.

 

[RafalDybek]

*Jak sprawdzić, czy przetwornik T-DFB działa?*

Cześć,

Właśnie znalazłem i kupiłem używane koło T-GT w zeszłym tygodniu i koło jest świetne!
Ze wszystkimi pedałami T-LCM, obręczą Sparco 383 i manetką TH8A po prostu uspokajam się na chwilę i jestem zadowolony z kompatybilności z PS4.

Mogłem po prostu czekać, aż nowy Fanatec CSL DD pojawi się na rynku w trzecim kwartale tego roku 2021.
Zdaję sobie sprawę, że CSL DD nie jest kompatybilny z PlayStation, ale chodzi o to, że rynek kół używanych będzie prawdopodobnie przesycony interesującymi zestawami kół, gdy pojawi się nowy Fanatic.

A teraz do tematu, bardzo słabe lub nieistniejące efekty T-DFB.

- Jest całkiem możliwe, że mój Wheel Stand Pro sam tłumi częstotliwości dostarczane przez przetwornik.
(Stojak na koło jest solidny i stał się dość ciężki z dołączonym t-lcm i manetką)
- Martwy przetwornik?
-W ustawieniach GT Sport nie ma wiele do znalezienia ale może brakuje mi jakiegoś ustawienia lub procedury?

Zresetowałem i zaktualizowałem firmware.
Tryb GT jest włączony w rozstawie osi przed włączeniem zasilania konsoli.

Wszelkie pomysły będą mile widziane.

Witaj. W GT Sport jest regulacja sily efektu T-DFB .

 

[davidt33]

@FPV MIC UPDATE: it seems like I have to reopen it again... now the throttle is on even with the pedal at rest. But glad to know is more of an adjustment than anything being broke.

UPDATE 2: ended up swapping the gas and clutch pedals as a whole since I do not use the clutch pedal. Just had to also switch the connectors inside the base and voila! Got a brand new gas pedal entirely!
Tested it and it feels just like out of the box!

for those who run Vito similar issues, this threat might help.
View attachment 999228

That's the drawback with potentiometer driven pedals and why I dislike them. They are very prone to getting dirty/mucked up which leads to sticking, replacement and frustration. Also the plastic gears are very prone to wear and misalignment including replacement also. I've had my fair share of frustration with them cleaning and/or replacement multiple times, sometimes reoccurring on a weekly or bi-weekly basis.
Hall sensors and loadcell are by far the best for usage and longevity. I could never go back to potentiometer driven pedals. It's not worth the pain.

 

[FPV MIC]

*How to verify that the T-DFB transducer is working?*

Hello,

I just found and purchased a second hand T-GT wheel last week and the wheel is great!
With all the T-LCM pedals, Sparco 383 rim and TH8A shifter, I just settle down for a while and be happy with the PS4 compatibility.

I could just have waited for the new Fanatec CSL DD to crash into the market at q3 this year 2021.
I’m aware of that CSL DD is not PlayStation compatible, but the point is that the second hand wheel market will probably be over saturated of interesting wheel sets when the new Fanatic is available.

Now to the topic, the very weak or nonexistent T-DFB effects.

-It is quite possible that my Wheel Stand Pro it self is dampening the transducer delivered frequencies away.
(The wheel stand is solid and has become quite heavy with t-lcm and shifter attached)
-Dead transducer?
-In GT Sport settings there is not much to be found but maybe I’m missing some setting or procedure?

I have reseted and updated the firmware.
GT-mode is enabled in the wheelbase before I switch the console power on.

Any ideas would be appreciated please.

Have you checked to see if the vibration function is turned on? In the options menu if you turn off vibration for the controller it also affects the T-GT vibration. Go to the GT logo in the top right corner > options > controllers > vibration function > select on (if it isn't already).

In that section is a vibration strength control for the vibration/transducer too, try turning the volume to full and see if you can notice any difference. I can feel mine easily by putting my hand on the top of the wheel base while driving.

Also, as you've mentioned, it could also be your rig dulling the effects.

In here:

You may have already tried this, but it's worth a shot... and welcome to

 

[Philtaylor17]

So I just bought a second hand standard T-GT

I'm very excited to set it up, but I have a couple of questions.

The guy who sold it to me didn't have any bolts as he hadn't used it for a while, I read on some posts here that the T-GT uses some washers or something when bolting it to the wheel mounting plate? Does anyone know where I could source some of these? I don't want to use any old bolts and damage the wheel basically

And I've also read that I need to update the firmware on PC - do I just connect the wheel to the PC and it does this automatically or do I need to download some programs?

Thanks