Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
Hey guys.
Bought the wheel two months ago. Like a good boy, I updated the firwmares, kept overall strenght at 65% and the fans on. After 0 issues with GTSport, PCars2 and other consoles games, I got myself WRC8. and after one session I noticed the infamous click of the videos below:
.
This happens also while the wheel is off.
FFB was tested in Control panel and seemed ok.
I also noticed my wheel never properly went to full center at the end of the recalibration, but I never considered it to be an issue.. maybe i can show a video of that, too?

EDIT I moved the wheel stand pro's inclination and i don't know, i feel less clicks? am i just paranoid and the wheel is ok?

-

2nd edit :
I have remounted the wheel into the base, and the sound above is definitely almost not there.
is it normal however that the hole for holding the wheel with the philips screw isn't exactly 90 degrees with the wheel when fully tightened?


3RD Edit :
I don't really want to spam this thread, so let me add here again my calibration video...


I am thinking it might be the loose belt issue.
Always read with great appreciation the post from the legendary @asteroulis ( kalimera! ) and I saw that once he recommended that could be the problem...
 
Last edited:
MarcoV
Hey guys.
Bought the wheel two months ago. Like a good boy, I updated the firwmares, kept overall strenght at 65% and the fans on. After 0 issues with GTSport, PCars2 and other consoles games, I got myself WRC8. and after one session I noticed the infamous click of the videos below:
cut
I am thinking it might be the loose belt issue.
Always read with great appreciation the post from the legendary @asteroulis ( kalimera! ) and I saw that once he recommended that could be the problem...
Click to expand...

First of all, apologies for quoting my own post, but I did find hopefully a solution and wanted to write it in a separate one.
A indirect thanks to all the people who wrote in this thread, as today I've went through more than half of all the posts.
As I wrote before, my wheel was new and never had any issue, except maybe for calibrating slightly off center, which perhaps is normal.
Many of the "clicking videos" found here and there usually showed quite a worse situation than mine, however in one of them, @asteroulis pointed out to just try opening it up, pull up the motor and screw it without tightening so I did. Despite being quite clunky when it comes to screws and mounting stuff.
In fact, the first try was horrible, I probably didn't put together the motor at the right height and the wheel made a terrible noise when calibrating.
I thought ok, I'm fugded, and my usual clunkiness made things worse.
But then I tried again.

It's basically what this guy did ( although it's just two random videos with no explanation lol )




Now it feels even better! And I do hope it stays this way.
Please, if you have more recommendations let me know.

I also raised a ticket with Thrustmaster...and with the shop..I guess they won't mind if I tell them it's all good :D
 
I have this issue, uploaded to youtube for easy watching
Already changed motor, but when I turn the wheel on, motor gets super hot and is stuck


 
Kalimera @MarcoV !! Glad you sorted it out.
Uloga
I have this issue, uploaded to youtube for easy watching
Already changed motor, but when I turn the wheel on, motor gets super hot and is stuck
Click to expand...
Yes unfortunately it's not a straightforward solution. I do hae lot of spares to find the problem , where most people obviously don't. Usually this happens when one of the 3 phases of the brushless motor is malfunctioning . Meaning the problem can be on the motor side , on the pcb side , or just the cable has a problem. Did you have the same problem with the old motor or now?
 
asteroulis
Kalimera @MarcoV !! Glad you sorted it out.

Yes unfortunately it's not a straightforward solution. I do hae lot of spares to find the problem , where most people obviously don't. Usually this happens when one of the 3 phases of the brushless motor is malfunctioning . Meaning the problem can be on the motor side , on the pcb side , or just the cable has a problem. Did you have the same problem with the old motor or now?
Click to expand...
Kalimera!! Yes I think it's pretty much fixed, and I do feel the center to be more smooth for some reason. Definitely feel it different than the first days.
I do have a ticket already logged with Thrustmaster, they say they have a 15 days delay, so in case it breaks again..i hope it happens by then.
Compared to the guy in the video, btw, my motor is not that up. In fact I can see like 20 percent of the screw hole above it.
Tried to mak it with Paint lol.
At the same time the belt is tight enough, I can "push" with my finger while it keeps some good resistance.
I'm just afraid not to have it too much tighten...
upload_2020-7-21_10-2-4.png
 
asteroulis
Kalimera @MarcoV !! Glad you sorted it out.

Yes unfortunately it's not a straightforward solution. I do hae lot of spares to find the problem , where most people obviously don't. Usually this happens when one of the 3 phases of the brushless motor is malfunctioning . Meaning the problem can be on the motor side , on the pcb side , or just the cable has a problem. Did you have the same problem with the old motor or now?
Click to expand...
Hey,

Yes exact same issue with old and new motor.

Any idea what I can do? I'm fairly ok with soldering stuff and PCB's, so if I need to recap or something, tell me what to do

I've checked the caps but I can't see anything leaking for now.

I have also checked the cables to the controller unit, not to the motor itself. I don't want to open it up, since I did that with the old one and it's a PITA to get it assembled.
 
No , unfortunately there are no steps here to guide you somehow:( I haven't dived that deep yet myself, and it's a problem that I faced recently only (weird) , and I don't even recall what exactly was the solution. I want to build a motor tester so that I am sure that motors are fine after servicing them (I do it in advance now , whether they are faulty or not) so that I won't have issues while troubleshooting.
 
asteroulis
No , unfortunately there are no steps here to guide you somehow:( I haven't dived that deep yet myself, and it's a problem that I faced recently only (weird) , and I don't even recall what exactly was the solution. I want to build a motor tester so that I am sure that motors are fine after servicing them (I do it in advance now , whether they are faulty or not) so that I won't have issues while troubleshooting.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure you could setup an unofficial T300 Support there in Greece.
I'd be happier to ship the wheel to you rather than in France :-D
 
MarcoV
Kalimera!! Yes I think it's pretty much fixed, and I do feel the center to be more smooth for some reason. Definitely feel it different than the first days.
I do have a ticket already logged with Thrustmaster, they say they have a 15 days delay, so in case it breaks again..i hope it happens by then.
Compared to the guy in the video, btw, my motor is not that up. In fact I can see like 20 percent of the screw hole above it.
Tried to mak it with Paint lol.
At the same time the belt is tight enough, I can "push" with my finger while it keeps some good resistance.
I'm just afraid not to have it too much tighten...
View attachment 942486
Click to expand...
No need to tighten it too much. Tightening leads to the exaggerated belt sound in your first videos , while a too loose belt will start the grinding sound from calibration already , the teeth of the belt slipping . A bit loose belt might end up skipping teeth under stress (like in the video from that guy you posted) , meaning loosing center mid-game. (Test it with 100% centering spring force to see if it slips). So if you (probably) have found the ideal position , the tension will be enough to avoid belt slipping , but very smooth , noiseless and enjoyable.
I do not see you needing the support ticket after all.
 
asteroulis
No , unfortunately there are no steps here to guide you somehow:( I haven't dived that deep yet myself, and it's a problem that I faced recently only (weird) , and I don't even recall what exactly was the solution. I want to build a motor tester so that I am sure that motors are fine after servicing them (I do it in advance now , whether they are faulty or not) so that I won't have issues while troubleshooting.
Click to expand...
Well the person I bought it from (eBay) has a good reputation and told me the motors are tested, so I don't think it's a motor issue.
I bought this wheel for €30 and a motor for €40. I think I can still sell it as "broken" for the wheel and pedals and that might make me back my €70 I hope.

Or is there somewhere else I can go to see if anyone has a solution for this?
 
MarcoV
I'm pretty sure you could setup an unofficial T300 Support there in Greece.
I'd be happier to ship the wheel to you rather than in France :-D
Click to expand...
Yes , in Greece the community relies on me when needed T300&TX's.
If I could guarantee 100% quick fix I'd accept wheel bases , but I don't think I can be that reliable and not disappoint someome:)
 
Uloga
Well the person I bought it from (eBay) has a good reputation and told me the motors are tested, so I don't think it's a motor issue.
I bought this wheel for €30 and a motor for €40. I think I can still sell it as "broken" for the wheel and pedals and that might make me back my €70 I hope.

Or is there somewhere else I can go to see if anyone has a solution for this?
Click to expand...
Wheel's price is good. You probably have two good motors there, Motor's 40 eur price is expensive , but if you dont want to wait from China 4 months with Covid19 then thats the price.
 
Hi All

I have the stock pedal set you get with the 300RS and they're almost rounded after some fiddling.
Just wondered if anyone knew the screw/bolt size for fixing the pedal head to the pedal arm?
It's the 2 bolts you use to fix the the head to the arm.

Thanks!
 
imalexi
Hi All

I have the stock pedal set you get with the 300RS and they're almost rounded after some fiddling.
Just wondered if anyone knew the screw/bolt size for fixing the pedal head to the pedal arm?
It's the 2 bolts you use to fix the the head to the arm.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
email Thrustmaster. Last time I talked with them they were offering to sell me a whole new pedal set for 70.00. cheap enough.
 
I have emailed them, here's part of the response - Due to the COVID 19 pandemic, our delay for response is currently 15 days.
I bet they're raking in at the moment too!
 
imalexi
I have emailed them, here's part of the response - Due to the COVID 19 pandemic, our delay for response is currently 15 days.
I bet they're raking in at the moment too!
Click to expand...
It took a few days for their reply when I messaged them before. They did respond each time though
 
Had a reply from Thrustmaster. Thought this might be useful for others.
Screw size for fixing the pedal head below. Weirdly the top screw is 2mm longer than the bottom screw. I didn't even notice there was a difference.
upload_2020-10-7_11-33-15.png
 
The pedals (two pedal set) to my T300 RS has stopped working. If I connect them to a PC and try the Thrustmaster control panel I sometimes can get some input, but most of the time no sign of life at all. Is there a way to tell if the problem is in the pedals, in the wheel base or somewhere in between?

I would happily buy a new set of pedals if I was sure it would solve the problem.
Warranty is long gone.
 
Last edited:
VincentVegaSWE
The pedals (two pedal set) to my T300 RS has stopped working. If I connect them to a PC and try the Thrustmaster control panel I sometimes can get some input, but most of the time no sign of life at all. Is there a way to tell if the problem is in the pedals, in the wheel base or somewhere in between?

I would happily buy a new set of pedals if I was sure it would solve the problem.
Warranty is long gone.
Click to expand...
Thats why i buy online with a digital receipt, then you can edit the receipt dates to make it in warranty for when thrustmaster products inevitably break !
 
VincentVegaSWE
The pedals (two pedal set) to my T300 RS has stopped working. If I connect them to a PC and try the Thrustmaster control panel I sometimes can get some input, but most of the time no sign of life at all. Is there a way to tell if the problem is in the pedals, in the wheel base or somewhere in between?

I would happily buy a new set of pedals if I was sure it would solve the problem.
Warranty is long gone.
Click to expand...
I can tell you that the entry level pedals do wear out, having gone through several sets including T3PA. I just purchased the T-LCM pedal set and these are heavy duty and at less than $200 is an unbelievable deal. lot's of adjustments. I have never been happier. Purchase immediately before they are gone again. I waited 6 months for them to become available again, all the while struggling with worn out pedals.
 
Hi there,

I've recently bought a t300 rs with pedals and a playseat challenge. After a week I'm still in the learning phase, trying to be faster than my times with a pad and not spinning out. Guess I will have to give it some time.

Any tips concerning best ffb settings?

I read you can adjust steering wheel rotation (needs to be done every race). Is there a benefit in doing so?
 
ThaSyn
Hi there,

I've recently bought a t300 rs with pedals and a playseat challenge. After a week I'm still in the learning phase, trying to be faster than my times with a pad and not spinning out. Guess I will have to give it some time.

Any tips concerning best ffb settings?

I read you can adjust steering wheel rotation (needs to be done every race). Is there a benefit in doing so?
Click to expand...
I wouldnt change rotation on wheel, as most games automatically adjust steering range to the car, this is what I have found. FFB is all about comfort for you, I personally like it pretty strong.
 
ThaSyn
Any tips concerning best ffb settings?

I read you can adjust steering wheel rotation (needs to be done every race). Is there a benefit in doing so?
Click to expand...

Main tip is don't have FFB too high or you lose detail and also just end up fighting the wheel. Most games you don't need to change rotation. But change view so you can see the in game wheel and make sure your wheel rotation matches up in rotation
 

Similar threads

Soulfresh_ACV
Thrustmaster TS-XW Racer Wheel Thread
2
Replies
34
Views
28K
Soulfresh_ACV
Soulfresh_ACV
Soulfresh_ACV
  • Poll
Thrustmaster T-GT Wheel Thread
46 47 48
Replies
1K
Views
263K
nosoks
nosoks
B
Selling (UK) - Thrustmaster T500 RS, Ferrari F1 Wheel, T3PA-Pro Add-On Pedal, Wheel Stand Pro - £450
Replies
0
Views
1K
barney0001
B
Chooby
Will a wheel adaptor for Thrustmaster GTE, TM28, 599XX EVO Wheel fit on a T300RS GT wheel?
Replies
4
Views
3K
Chooby
Chooby
C
Thrustmaster T300RS with T3PA Pedals
Replies
3
Views
3K
Racetee
R

Latest Posts

Back