Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

[asteroulis]

Don't drill up the grill. It makes things worse, letting the air out before hitting the motor.

 

[Too much Vtak]

Edit. Sorry wrong thread.

 

[DudaAlbastra]

Hi guys,

Do to the pandemic I am a newly simracing enthusiast. But I am encountering some problems and want to ask you guys if you can help me figure it out.

I bought a T300RS like a week ago and had a lot of fun figuring how to stay on the road in DiRT2.0.

But lately, 2 night ago, something really weird started to happen, my wheel losses center mid play. When this first happened it lost center by about 45 degrees, but after that, every time it happens it is between 5-10 degrees. I can happens in both directions left/right. Also when this happens the most right and most left are not aligned.

The problem fixes itself by unplugging the wheel from power and plug it back on. The auto calibration at startup fixes the problem. But this is very frustrating thing to do every time it happens. Plus this is a new wheel I dont expect it to have this problem from the get go.


Searching online I found other cases of this happening but not a clear solution. I found that if press "mode" +"options"+"share" buttons on the wheel, a new center will be stored. But in my case I dont need this re-centering because if I let auto-calibration it gets fixed.

Also I am starting to doubt that my setting up the wheel was not done correctly. The little screw, that you need to tighten between the base and the face of the wheel, I can not tighten all the way through.


Did any of you guys encounter this problem? Is there something that I am missing?

Should I consider to send the wheel back?


My setup:

PS4

Thrustmaster T300RS

DiRT rally 2.0.

Thanks a lot !!

 

[asteroulis]

Hi guys,
I bought a T300RS like a week ago and had a lot of fun figuring how to stay on the road in DiRT2.0.

....
Should I consider to send the wheel back?

Since it's under warranty , yes. Return it. It's something that you should open the wheel to try and fix , and obviously not worth doing under warranty.

About the screw in the wheel release mechanism , this is just a stop to prevent it from turning during game. No need for extra tightening .

 

[Scaff]

Hi guys,

Do to the pandemic I am a newly simracing enthusiast. But I am encountering some problems and want to ask you guys if you can help me figure it out.

I bought a T300RS like a week ago and had a lot of fun figuring how to stay on the road in DiRT2.0.

But lately, 2 night ago, something really weird started to happen, my wheel losses center mid play. When this first happened it lost center by about 45 degrees, but after that, every time it happens it is between 5-10 degrees. I can happens in both directions left/right. Also when this happens the most right and most left are not aligned.

The problem fixes itself by unplugging the wheel from power and plug it back on. The auto calibration at startup fixes the problem. But this is very frustrating thing to do every time it happens. Plus this is a new wheel I dont expect it to have this problem from the get go.


Searching online I found other cases of this happening but not a clear solution. I found that if press "mode" +"options"+"share" buttons on the wheel, a new center will be stored. But in my case I dont need this re-centering because if I let auto-calibration it gets fixed.

Also I am starting to doubt that my setting up the wheel was not done correctly. The little screw, that you need to tighten between the base and the face of the wheel, I can not tighten all the way through.


Did any of you guys encounter this problem? Is there something that I am missing?

Should I consider to send the wheel back?


My setup:

PS4

Thrustmaster T300RS

DiRT rally 2.0.

Thanks a lot !!

Have you updated the firmware on the wheelbase?

 

[John G]

Sounds like something is wrong with the wheel. You can try updating the firmware but mine was on the old firmware before without issue so i doubt its that.
The only other thing i can think of is that maybe after a while it's going into protection mode.
What is your self aligning torque setting? If it's too high you may be pushing the wheel too hard. I run mine at 55 in dirt 2.0. Also make sure you're always running the wheel in forced protection mode, which runs the cooling fan continuously.

 

[Granadier]

Is there a way to fix the “click” of the shifters or make them clickier?

My right hand paddle has slowly lost almost all of its click.

 

[FPV MIC]

Is there a way to fix the “click” of the shifters or make them clickier?

My right hand paddle has slowly lost almost all of its click.

I've read that you can open up the wheel and re-seat or stretch the springs to gain the click back. Check @super_gt 's post below. It show's the springs that need to be stretched.

There are two springs on each paddle shifter and one spring on each button.

Or to make them clickier there's several magnetic shifter mods around. Some good info in this thread: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/magnets-for-tm-paddle-shifters-mod.379279/

 

[Granadier]

@FPV MIC That was my first though, but I think the “click” is actually within the switch button mechanism and that spring is just the paddle return spring.

 

[John G]

I tried some very strong magnets on my wheel (that has no issue paddles, just thought I'd give it a go). I couldn't feel a difference, but maybe you can when the parts have lost their click

 

[Outspacer]

@FPV MIC That was my first though, but I think the “click” is actually within the switch button mechanism and that spring is just the paddle return spring.

There's 3 springs each side, IIRC, two larger springs that give the force for return (that I've removed, because magnets) and a smaller one that operates the switch. Rotating that spring a bit can change the sound the switch makes by a surprising amount. I guess just by having the bit of the end of the spring that isn't flat in a different place, so the switch gets pushed at a slightly different angle.

 

[Granadier]

There's 3 springs each side, IIRC, two larger springs that give the force for return (that I've removed, because magnets) and a smaller one that operates the switch. Rotating that spring a bit can change the sound the switch makes by a surprising amount. I guess just by having the bit of the end of the spring that isn't flat in a different place, so the switch gets pushed at a slightly different angle.

Good to know! I’ll try messing with the spring in the switch itself.

 

[FPV MIC]

There's 3 springs each side, IIRC, two larger springs that give the force for return (that I've removed, because magnets) and a smaller one that operates the switch. Rotating that spring a bit can change the sound the switch makes by a surprising amount. I guess just by having the bit of the end of the spring that isn't flat in a different place, so the switch gets pushed at a slightly different angle.

I was just about to post your quote saying exactly that .


@Granadier It fixes the issue for some people, check below.

Hi all,

So I've been playing a fair bit at sport race and have been using the pedal shifter a fair bit with the Group 4 race. I'm using the t300rs Ferrari alcantara wheel and realise that the right paddle shifter has lost its "click", it still work but do not have the click feedback.

Did some research and went ahead on opening the steering wheel and stretch the springs and it worked.

Thing is, while I opened the steering wheel, a third spring fell off before I had to chance to see where it is supposed to be. The two springs for the paddle shifter is still intact, and I have a third spring where I'm not sure where it goes to? Is it the d pad?

Appreciate if someone could shine some light on this.

Thank you! Would like to get it working

The third one is to make a ground connection between the PCB and the metal of the wheel. On the back of the wheel rim there's a spot where they've scratched through the finish to the metal, which will guide you where it fits.

As for paddle clicks, I got mine more even sounding by rotating the springs a bit. It's as if there's a sweet spot for where the end of the spring wire should be.

 

[Granadier]

Cheers! Appreciate the help all. Will report back after I pull the wheel apart again.

 

[Outspacer]

Good to know! I’ll try messing with the spring in the switch itself.

The spring just sits on top of the switch - I'm surprised he didn't knock them off in that vid! Takes a bit of trial and error, but you can test them while just holding the case together with your hand rather than screwing it shut each time.

I was just about to post your quote saying exactly that .

Ha, forgot about that one - it's been a long 2 1/2 years, I tell you! Cheers for finding it!

 

[DudaAlbastra]

Sounds like something is wrong with the wheel. You can try updating the firmware but mine was on the old firmware before without issue so i doubt its that.
The only other thing i can think of is that maybe after a while it's going into protection mode.
What is your self aligning torque setting? If it's too high you may be pushing the wheel too hard. I run mine at 55 in dirt 2.0. Also make sure you're always running the wheel in forced protection mode, which runs the cooling fan continuously.

I dint update the firmware as I had the wheel connected only to PS4 and did not plug it into a computer.
I set the self-aligning torque to 65. This happened a few times, and once I noticed that it did during a shallow "5 left long" ...

Can I run it in protection mode if I got it connected to PS4? or do I need to connect it to a PC?

 

[John G]

It depends, you don't need to be on the very latest firmware version to run in protection mode, but i also don't think it's available on very early versions.

Press mode button and option/start together on the wheel for 5 seconds. The mode light should flash twice and the fan will start up, and it will thereafter run continuously when your wheel is hooked up.

 

[SlowGrayAudi]

I've had my T300RS with the 599xx alcantara wheel for about a year now. Very happy with the purchase.

After about 6 months i ordered a magnetic shifter mod online that is amazing!

I also made my own load cell for the brake pedal that im having a lot of fun with compared to the ****** potentiometer it comes with.

My buddy with a 3d printer helped me out and printed me new buttons so i installed them today.

I also got a new knob for the rotary switch. So much better with a larger diameter knob thats textured.

 

[Outspacer]

I've had my T300RS with the 599xx alcantara wheel for about a year now. Very happy with the purchase.

After about 6 months i ordered a magnetic shifter mod online that is amazing!

I also made my own load cell for the brake pedal that im having a lot of fun with compared to the ****** potentiometer it comes with.

My buddy with a 3d printer helped me out and printed me new buttons so i installed them today.

I also got a new knob for the rotary switch. So much better with a larger diameter knob thats textured.

Magnet mod looks neat, putting them out there means smaller magnets can be used. I guess it has quite a pull on it...?

A while ago I printed a replacement for the dpad using individual buttons because I was annoyed with doing accidental diagonal movements on it:

It took quite a bit of trial and error to get the buttons to slide inside the body nicely!

Messy source files below in the zip. I was using rapcad back then but have just now converted the models to openscad, which should allow a much smoother roundness to it (rapcad crashed beyond a certain point, so all the $fn=32 could be set much higher with openscad). Uncomment lines near the bottom to select the part to render - body() / button() / spacer(...) - the spacer is needed to raise the body up off the PCB, clearing the switches (and also needs to be tuned to fit height-wise with more trial and error, but it's very quick to print).

 

[SlowGrayAudi]

Magnet mod looks neat, putting them out there means smaller magnets can be used. I guess it has quite a pull on it...?

A while ago I printed a replacement for the dpad using individual buttons because I was annoyed with doing accidental diagonal movements on it:

View attachment 937057

It took quite a bit of trial and error to get the buttons to slide inside the body nicely!

Messy source files below in the zip. I was using rapcad back then but have just now converted the models to openscad, which should allow a much smoother roundness to it (rapcad crashed beyond a certain point, so all the $fn=32 could be set much higher with openscad). Uncomment lines near the bottom to select the part to render - body() / button() / spacer(...) - the spacer is needed to raise the body up off the PCB, clearing the switches (and also needs to be tuned to fit height-wise with more trial and error, but it's very quick to print).

Very neat, i wish the d-pad was 4 separate buttons. Im excited to see how yours turns out. I have no experience with any of that stuff. I just find the files online and my friend prints them for me

This is the magnetic mod i bought. It feels amazing. Barry at the SRG did a review of them.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/740685893/thrustmaster-magnetic-tactile-shifter

 

[Outspacer]

Very neat, i wish the d-pad was 4 separate buttons. Im excited to see how yours turns out. I have no experience with any of that stuff. I just find the files online and my friend prints them for me

This is the magnetic mod i bought. It feels amazing. Barry at the SRG did a review of them.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/740685893/thrustmaster-magnetic-tactile-shifter

Pretty sure I spent more than that just on testing out different magnets!

I works great, even with gloves on Thumb hits the raised central bit before any buttons actuate so it's easy to locate. This was one of the test versions pretty much complete, final one went on my Momo modded rim.

I could output a set of STL files for you but there's no guarantee that printed on a different printer with a different filament it would all fit together right (the bottom of the holes need a bit of filing anyway, so test fit from the top). I'll look into making the openscad file more easily configurable - or at least adding some comments next to the tweakable bits of it! It's easy to create the STLs from OpenSCAD.

Also found a pic of my dining table while I was doing the trial and error, in my 3d printing newbie phase

 

[SlowGrayAudi]

Pretty sure I spent more than that just on testing out different magnets!

I works great, even with gloves on Thumb hits the raised central bit before any buttons actuate so it's easy to locate. This was one of the test versions pretty much complete, final one went on my Momo modded rim.

View attachment 937117

I could output a set of STL files for you but there's no guarantee that printed on a different printer with a different filament it would all fit together right (the bottom of the holes need a bit of filing anyway, so test fit from the top). I'll look into making the openscad file more easily configurable - or at least adding some comments next to the tweakable bits of it! It's easy to create the STLs from OpenSCAD.

Also found a pic of my dining table while I was doing the trial and error, in my 3d printing newbie phase

View attachment 937119

Yeah magnets get expensive quick!!!

If you could share it that would be amazing! It looks great!

 

[Outspacer]

Yeah magnets get expensive quick!!!

If you could share it that would be amazing! It looks great!

I'll try to make a version that supports the Customizer this evening - been meaning to have a go at that for a while

 

[SlowGrayAudi]

I'll try to make a version that supports the Customizer this evening - been meaning to have a go at that for a while

Thank you

 

[Outspacer]

Thank you

No worries, this Customizer stuff is pretty handy, I'm gonna use it a lot!

Not quite a final version but I think it's all working (Apart from the Button Stop Thickness slider not starting in the right place, but the number is correct. Seems to be a bug in OpenSCAD).

Grab yourself OpenSCAD, load this file up and see what you think To produce the STL file for a part: select the Part, hit F6 for a proper render, then F7 to export STL.

Default values should OK for an initial test print but some tweaking will be required...
'Height' might be taller than you like (default is what I used on the Momo, which is thicker metal than the TM).
'Enlarge Holes' could probably be a bit less with detail set to medium or higher (maybe between 5% and 7% ? just guessing).
'Rim Type' - leave as TM for yours. (The Momo option just adds a little shim on one side since the rim isn't completely flat around the dpad).
'Spacer Height' - who knows, it wasn't the same for the two TM rims I've got! Might as well print 1.25, 1.5 and 1.75, they are quick.
'Button Stop Thickness' - default is probably fine.

The Reset button top-right will set all parameters back to their defaults.

Print settings: I used PLA. 100% infill. I used 0.2mm layer height but finer might well be better, especially for the buttons. Anything to help reduce the 'Elephant's foot' from squishing the first layer is useful, in Cura it's called 'Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion' and setting it to, say, -0.2mm could help a lot (or at least save a bit of filing).

 

[SlowGrayAudi]

No worries, this Customizer stuff is pretty handy, I'm gonna use it a lot!

Not quite a final version but I think it's all working (Apart from the Button Stop Thickness slider not starting in the right place, but the number is correct. Seems to be a bug in OpenSCAD).

Grab yourself OpenSCAD, load this file up and see what you think To produce the STL file for a part: select the Part, hit F6 for a proper render, then F7 to export STL.

Default values should OK for an initial test print but some tweaking will be required...
'Height' might be taller than you like (default is what I used on the Momo, which is thicker metal than the TM).
'Enlarge Holes' could probably be a bit less with detail set to medium or higher (maybe between 5% and 7% ? just guessing).
'Rim Type' - leave as TM for yours. (The Momo option just adds a little shim on one side since the rim isn't completely flat around the dpad).
'Spacer Height' - who knows, it wasn't the same for the two TM rims I've got! Might as well print 1.25, 1.5 and 1.75, they are quick.
'Button Stop Thickness' - default is probably fine.

The Reset button top-right will set all parameters back to their defaults.

Print settings: I used PLA. 100% infill. I used 0.2mm layer height but finer might well be better, especially for the buttons. Anything to help reduce the 'Elephant's foot' from squishing the first layer is useful, in Cura it's called 'Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion' and setting it to, say, -0.2mm could help a lot (or at least save a bit of filing).

View attachment 937245

Ill have to relay this to my friend as i don't have a printer. I use him for all my printing needs haha. I'm sure he knows what all of this means. This is all uncharted territory for me. But i appreciate your input

 

[Vin Sinn]

So I just got a loadcell mod kit for the T3PA standard pedals not the pro, since the pandemic there are no real TLCM pedals available or the thrustmaster LCM kit either. I installed it as directed, and, it does function. My question is this, what is a typical loadcell travel distance? This one only has about 1/2 inch, to maybe 1 inch, and that's being generous, LOL . Is this the same with all the loadcell brakes?
This one is the loadcellmod.com one. Not a bad mod for $100 I guess, going to take some getting used to, hard to get all the way on the brakes.
Since I run my pedals inverted I had to customize the brake pedal pad itself because of the way it's designed, for pedals sitting on the floor, got it to work, but I am going to put a real aftermarket aluminum brake pedal on it to be able to apply pressure better.

 

[gr8_racer]

T300RS GT edition + GT sports driving MBF1 W08 17, Great feeling! BTW, it's racing weekend!

 

[SlowGrayAudi]

Installed a new fan today as mine had started developing a noise on startup.

Once i plugged it all back in to test it i was greeted with a nice spark inside the power plug. The white plug from the power supply to the main board. Fml. Trying to dissect it now.

 

[SlowGrayAudi]

Did a lot of reading online trying to find a solution to my dead wheel.

The most common issue is a dead power supply. The second seems to be a dead optoisolator on the circuit board on the power supply.

So after seeing a bunch of people yank out the garbage over engineered power supply and replacing it with a laptop power supply i figured id give that a shot.

Apparently The power supply has to be between 20-30v and ideally around 7amp.

So i found an ac/dc power supply online with 24v and 6amps.

It shows up tomorrow so ill start messing around with it.