Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
I just upgraded to the t3pa (t150 racing wheel), and the 1st thing I noticed was how much more resistance the brake pedal has compared to the set that came w/the wheel. I have tried all the different ranges of travel/resistance settings. Set it up with rubber & spring mod and without, even set them up rally/GT style and still I cant get the car to slow down enough unless im braking WAY earlier than I was w/the 2 pedal set. Ive read the online manual and Ive used all the set-ups it describes. I guess I need to get used to the new resistance pressure and build up more muscle in my legs, or is there an adjustment I missed. Any ideas and suggestions are appreciated.
 
speed_master
I just upgraded to the t3pa (t150 racing wheel), and the 1st thing I noticed was how much more resistance the brake pedal has compared to the set that came w/the wheel. I have tried all the different ranges of travel/resistance settings. Set it up with rubber & spring mod and without, even set them up rally/GT style and still I cant get the car to slow down enough unless im braking WAY earlier than I was w/the 2 pedal set. Ive read the online manual and Ive used all the set-ups it describes. I guess I need to get used to the new resistance pressure and build up more muscle in my legs, or is there an adjustment I missed. Any ideas and suggestions are appreciated.
Click to expand...
I had a T500 at one time, and I use the Fanatec Clubsport V3 inverted now, which have a long throw and a lot of resistance, more than the T500 with the spring mod for sure.

So with that in mind, I will try to answer, with the understanding that some folks in here may have product specific insight.

First thing, if you have a laptop or PC that you can plug the wheel into for firmware update and calibration, do that.

Update the firmware to assure you have the correct support for the pedals.

https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t150ffb-en/

Calibrate the pedals to assure that the range is being recognized. It might be that the pedal is not being recognized as fully depressed when it indeed is. Or it could also be that you want full travel recognized somewhat before the pedal is fully depressed.

There should be a settings popup in the PC that allows you to do this. Since I don't have a TM product any longer, I cannot walk you through this.

All of that said, you are correct in assuming this is something you need to get used to. However, the additional travel and firm feel is especially useful for effective trail braking, which is a key to being fast. That means you will use a gradual release of the brake pedal to bring the car into the apex and rotate to your liking.

Hope that helps. 👍
 
Sorry for the double post, but does anyone know of a company providing a progressive spring replacement for the brake pedal in the T3PA pedals? I have the GTEye spring in my g29 pedals and that’s the perfect resistance curve, but that spring is too big to fit into the T3PA pedals.

Ricmotech offers a set of springs for the accelerator and clutch pedals, but their only offering for the brake is a load cell kit. There’s the 3DRap printed insert option, but I was hoping to just get an entire spring instead.
 
My upshifts sometimes don't work, my downshifts always work. I need to pull stronger for upshifts and it's not as 'clicky'.

I read these posts:
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?40279-T300RS-PADDLE-SHIFT-PROBLEM


Tried mingling with the springs but it didn't help. Switching the springs kept the problem at the same side: upshifts. So it couldn't be the springs themselves. I finally added 2 layers of paper under the spring. I made the hole with a perforator. Fixed! Clickiness and satisfying shifts on both sides.

Maybe useful info for someone...
 

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well, I have joined the club!
got my wheel yesterday, and did some laps in AC and ACS.....mind blown! (then again, coming from a DFP that's easy)
have the bits coming in to make my own loadcell mod, and am looking into clutchfeel and throttle feel.
omega GT Apex is coming in, so all set to pick up where I left off.
Fan has been set to ALWAYS on ofcourse.

looking at the Fan mods I saw the cooling fins are placed axially.
Anybody know how the motor is mounted in the cooling housing? (pressed, glued, bolted?)
I have a lathe, and am playing with the idea of making a new housing with radial fins, maybe add some ducting and a quiet fan, voiding my warranty in the progress..:D.
Not because it needs it, but I just like messing with stuff!

will peruse this thread to pilfer the images of opened cases etc to get a general idea.
 
As far as I can see he could put a ball bearing with a larger outer diameter which would reduce the friction more (this would also allow him to increase the belt tension which will reduce the damping from the belts) and the ball bearing would have a longer life.
 
FPV MIC
Quieter, more powerful, and longer lasting 👍
Click to expand...
Indeed the Noctua fans are the best you can find on the market, but with the absolute premiun price as well..

The stock fan is a cheap chinese one. I have found some times very quiet ones and very noisy ones in T300's/TX's. They probably won't that last long, but if soneone uses forced cooling is able to hear the fan when it starts to fail.

When I first started experimenting with replacing fans I went with the suggested noctua model. But then also tried with other brands with 1/2 or 1/4 the price of the noctua, with similar specs. What I found was that the cheaper ones did the same job, they are also reputable brands with 2 year warranty (in eu), and there is no need to spend such a premium price for the Noctua. Absolute waist of money. Also what was really really interesting, was that the stock chinese fan has almost DOUBLE the airflow from the aftermarket ones(including Noctua). Silence comes at a cost obviously. So,my practice now is to keep the stock fan if it's not very noisy, and replace it with a reputable aftermarket model when it fails. And that, ONLY to be used with forced cooling mode (FCM) . The reduced airflow is not a problem with FCM, and the aftermarket is better suitable for constant use.
I may add aftermarket fans in customized servo's one day, I'll see.

So, do some search about what other fans are available and save some money without second thoughts. Also avoid the adapter if you can. No need to hang on the warranty of a 4 eyro part, if you can have a more suitable cable with the proper length. The soldered cable is ideal. The adapter will make an excessively long cable that you'll have to stuff somewhere inside the base further disturbing proper airflow.
 
FPV MIC
Tip: you need the OmniJoin Adaptor Set too if you don't want to solder.
Click to expand...

The adapter this guy suggests in the amazon link is the reverse male/female combo needed. Unless amazon store shows a different product than it did when originally posted. I've seen that happen a few times.
 
asteroulis
The adapter this guy suggests in the amazon link is the reverse male/female combo needed. Unless amazon store shows a different product than it did when originally posted. I've seen that happen a few times.
Click to expand...
The one in my ''Tip'' is not the same as that one. I only put those links there as an extra reference... but cheers, it's good to know for future reference. 👍

This is the OmniJoin one I used: https://noctua.at/en/omnijoin_adaptor_set. It came from an Noctua NF-A4x10FLX 40x10 Fan I got for next to nothing.

The one on the left is the fan I used for my T500 (about 5 or 6 years ago) and the one on the right is where I got the adaptor from.
Noctua Fans.jpg
 
I‘ll be getting a T300 RS GT for my birhtday and would like to know if there‘s anything I‘ll need to know about setting it up correctly for GTS and if there are any "must-do" mods?

Thanks in advance! :cheers:
 

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