Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
shoemaker
Well i guess i will never find out now, Thrustmaster have replaced it with a brand new servo base. 2019 V54 firmware pre installed but had to activate ‘forced cooling ‘ myself. I just hope you are right that they’ve modified the internal design ! Good service from tm though 9 days from me posting it to receiving the replacement. Anybody would think they have alot of practice:lol:
Click to expand...
I don't think anything has changed. Even the latest ones have the same crappy $1 cooling fan.
 
Follow up: I sent the servo back to TM in Canada. Took about 3 weeks to get back to me. Feels perfect again. I expect they just replaced the belts and I'll be looking at belts again or a Fanatec wheel in a year or so.
 
JonMortensen
Follow up: I sent the servo back to TM in Canada. Took about 3 weeks to get back to me. Feels perfect again. I expect they just replaced the belts and I'll be looking at belts again or a Fanatec wheel in a year or so.
Click to expand...

Do you run it on really high tourqe FFB?
 
I've pre-ordered a T300 for myself (brand new), should be getting it in a couple of days. Will mostly be used on PS4

What are the well-known issues? What are the recommended settings at which i should use my wheel on? What things i should check first to be sure that the wheel has no factory defects?

Thanks in advance
 
Factory defaults are usually obvious or at least not avoidable down the road but it shouldn't take long to realise.

Other than that update the firmware if it is not the last and always but I mean always use your wheel in forced cooling mode (mode&button 8). 90% of issues in this line of wheels arw cause by heat. Forced cooling prevents overheating thus saving you from frustration. With forced cooling you can use it at 100% ffb gain with no fear at all!

Enjoy your new wheel.
 
Anybody know how to fix your T300RS when it becomes loose? You can waggle it in your hands a bit. No longer feels solid to use & puts you off.

If it's just a case of tightening something I'm hoping. Had it for a about 3 or 4 years & it's had a lot if use. Never had any other problems with it & have the alcantara Ferrari wheel.

Cheers in advance for any pointers! :)
 
First thought would be to tighten the 4 allen bolts in the quick release surrounding the mini din plug. Take your wheel off and you should see them. Don't overtighten because they can break.
This is if the wheel only feels loose.
Also check the 6 allen screws of your wheel. These can also need some love after time.

Now if it's a general wobblyness and it's not about tightening stuff, worst case is the bearings of the axle failing, which is fixable but not for the average Joe.
 
asteroulis
Factory defaults are usually obvious or at least not avoidable down the road but it shouldn't take long to realise.

Other than that update the firmware if it is not the last and always but I mean always use your wheel in forced cooling mode (mode&button 8). 90% of issues in this line of wheels arw cause by heat. Forced cooling prevents overheating thus saving you from frustration. With forced cooling you can use it at 100% ffb gain with no fear at all!

Enjoy your new wheel.
Click to expand...

Must i turn the Forced Cooling on every time i turn on the wheel or the settings get saved?
 
asteroulis
First thought would be to tighten the 4 allen bolts in the quick release surrounding the mini din plug. Take your wheel off and you should see them. Don't overtighten because they can break.
This is if the wheel only feels loose.
Also check the 6 allen screws of your wheel. These can also need some love after time.

Now if it's a general wobblyness and it's not about tightening stuff, worst case is the bearings of the axle failing, which is fixable but not for the average Joe.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much - will give this a try today!
 
OJT6627
Must i turn the Forced Cooling on every time i turn on the wheel or the settings get saved?
Click to expand...
It is saved , maybe you have to turn it on after a firmware update . But , if the usb port in which the wheel is connected to, does give 5V even with switched off PC or console (for charging stuff ) it means that the fan will continue to work. So you will have to unplug.
 
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asteroulis
First thought would be to tighten the 4 allen bolts in the quick release surrounding the mini din plug. Take your wheel off and you should see them. Don't overtighten because they can break.
This is if the wheel only feels loose.
Also check the 6 allen screws of your wheel. These can also need some love after time.

Now if it's a general wobblyness and it's not about tightening stuff, worst case is the bearings of the axle failing, which is fixable but not for the average Joe.
Click to expand...

All sorted I think it was those ones at the front but slightly tightened up the ones accessed from taking it off as well.

Good as new!! :cheers:
 
Got the wheel today, made up a temporary setup just to see if everything works (will buy a foldable wheel stand later)

Nice quality, good FFB strength and what's most important to me, it is relatively quite, even on Forced Cooling mode. I bet my roommates didn't even hear a thing it was so quiet :lol:

However, a small issue came up, but i think it is rather software than hardware related...
Tested the wheel on GT Sport first. All works well, did a 40 minute stint without any issues. Then switched to Driveclub. The moment the game starts to load up, the wheel does full turn to right and refuses to go back due to applied FFB (didn't risk to turn it back by forcing it with hands). When i exit the game, the wheel remains at the same position. But, when i launch GT Sport again, the wheel goes back to normal

Anyone had the same issue with Driveclub? As i said, GT Sport works perfectly fine
 
OJT6627
Got the wheel today, made up a temporary setup just to see if everything works (will buy a foldable wheel stand later)

Nice quality, good FFB strength and what's most important to me, it is relatively quite, even on Forced Cooling mode. I bet my roommates didn't even hear a thing it was so quiet :lol:

However, a small issue came up, but i think it is rather software than hardware related...
Tested the wheel on GT Sport first. All works well, did a 40 minute stint without any issues. Then switched to Driveclub. The moment the game starts to load up, the wheel does full turn to right and refuses to go back due to applied FFB (didn't risk to turn it back by forcing it with hands). When i exit the game, the wheel remains at the same position. But, when i launch GT Sport again, the wheel goes back to normal

Anyone had the same issue with Driveclub? As i said, GT Sport works perfectly fine
Click to expand...
I've run DC on my T300 a lot, I've not had that issue at all.

As has been suggested, a firmware update is the best place to start.
 
Daz555
Might be worth a firmware update.
Click to expand...
Scaff
I've run DC on my T300 a lot, I've not had that issue at all.

As has been suggested, a firmware update is the best place to start.
Click to expand...

Even though my Thrustmaster Control Panel said that my wheel had the latest version of the firmware (version 29), i updated it anyway

It worked, wheel now works properly in Driveclub. Thanks a lot guys!
Shame that FFB in Driveclub is very weak
 
OJT6627
Even though my Thrustmaster Control Panel said that my wheel had the latest version of the firmware (version 29), i updated it anyway

It worked, wheel now works properly in Driveclub. Thanks a lot guys!
Shame that FFB in Driveclub is very weak
Click to expand...

Oh Jesus... Now i rembered the time i used to play Driveclub with my dead and gone T300. I was the fastest guy on a track in Japan with the Agera(i think). Me and this French guy kept fighting to be the fastest, i've put the record and on the other day he was faster, than me.... And thiks kept going for a week or so.

But hey, i was surprised to see a T300 lasting for 4 years, nice.
Now i have a T500 but i use the T300 steering wheel on it(and the F1 add on). I had a problem just like Bush_killa, after some tightening on the front screws, it came back to normal.
 
I started using my T300RS when i received it as a Christmas present, so it's been used nearly 4 months and put around 25,00 miles "on the clock", the great majority on GTS.

It's been fine but the past week it's been doing exactly as shown in the video:



Unfortunately, there are no comments in the video to help resolve the noise.

Has anyone had a similar issue and if so was it resolved and how?

I have turned my torque down to 3 from 4 today and it hasn't made the noise since but too early to tell as it happened infrequently as it was.

Any tips appreciated!
 
seadog777
Has anyone had a similar issue and if so was it resolved and how?
Click to expand...
I had this issue where the brake and throttle pedals (not the wheel!) started squeaking.
Sounded very much the same as in the video.
Applied a small amount of WD40 to the pedal axis, only on the right side, through the hole, without opening the case, and it was gone in seconds...
 
nuu1212
I had this issue where the brake and throttle pedals (not the wheel!) started squeaking.
Sounded very much the same as in the video.
Applied a small amount of WD40 to the pedal axis, only on the right side, through the hole, without opening the case, and it was gone in seconds...
Click to expand...
Thanks, I'll give it a go, but pretty sure it's the wheel, not the peddles.
 
I am wanting to get a load cell for my T3PA (non-pro) ...

Ordered from Ricmotech but found out they are OOS w no date for a restock. Similar story @ Bodin.

Is loadcellmod.com 's version comparable to either of the above or is it somehow to be avoided? TIA!
 
wynams
I am wanting to get a load cell for my T3PA (non-pro) ...

Ordered from Ricmotech but found out they are OOS w no date for a restock. Similar story @ Bodin.

Is loadcellmod.com 's version comparable to either of the above or is it somehow to be avoided? TIA!
Click to expand...

Good product and does the job. Would definately recommend.
 
Strange situation, I haven’t played with the wheel for a bit and I took it out this weekend, I have the tpa pedals but now all of a sudden the clutch acts as the accelerator and vice versa, I have the most updated firmware, is this fixable?
 
zero_zep
Strange situation, I haven’t played with the wheel for a bit and I took it out this weekend, I have the tpa pedals but now all of a sudden the clutch acts as the accelerator and vice versa, I have the most updated firmware, is this fixable?
Click to expand...
Yes. This is a feature of most of the Thrustmaster wheel bases so you can easily switch to inverted pedals. Just press the mode button for two seconds. The Mode indicator light should then change colour from green to red. Done :)

Edit:
maxresdefault.jpg
 
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