So everything is working fine; CSR Elite Pedals to CPX Adapter (uh, literally plug and play, it just :censored:ing works!) to T300RS with TH8A shifter 👍 However, because I don't want 4 cables (power, cpx, th8a-requires direct usb connection to ps3-ps4 supposedly can plug into wheelbase directly, t300 usb to ps3) laying everywhere, I decided to go back to just the gas and left-foot braking with the paddle shifters until PCars comes out.
And I checked my csr elite diagram and it's correct
I did have to re-center the T300 (by pressing Start, Select & Mode for a few seconds), then I tried to tweak the cpx adapter, but I found having the load cell and the gain at 100% is great so it's easier to get to full braking (and slightly faster). I will next try fiddling with the ABS adjuster to see about getting it to vibrate just before lock up.
I'll also mess with the T300 settings more, but so far it's an excellent wheel. After using an
@eKretz super-powered CSR Elite wheel, this ranks right up there in my book. Because A) I never cranked the Elite wheel FFB up past 3 or 4 since it slows your laps down and B) the way the you have to compensate for the road is something new. I did some laps in a ZZII at Laguna and I had to hold the steering wheel to the left to keep it straight down the straight a little, just as if I was fighting an incline. I'll next try a few laps at daytona speedway to see what is needed to do there. I heard you have to turn the wheel against the slope a lot to keep the car straight in real life.
More to come as I get more time with the wheel. I'll also post the settings I prefer when I get to that point.
Oh, and my wheel also stopped spinning to the right when I powered my ps3 off too (I'm sure it's normal tho), there must be some interruption in the calibration command when the ps3 powers off...like maybe it's refreshing the usb connection, which triggers the calibration command in the wheel, but then the ps3 turns off before it can finish the calibration. *shrug*
EDIT: I did some more laps and I found that having the new FFB sensitivity and Torque options set to 7 was a great balance; having the wheel snap to center just enough to help with counter-balancing the car on exit, while at the same time providing the right amount of FFB without sacrificing too much lap time. If I want to go 'faster' I'll probably kick the FFB torque to 5 or 6. But when I tried it at 1, it was like I was using a DFGT again
I also love the increased resolution in the steering, I found it's helped in two ways, A) as you would expect, it's more precise in turning, making it easier to find the apex and exit with good throttle. And B) when transferring weight through a chicane the increased resolution really helps to ease the weight transfer left and right. Granted it's been 4 months since I've even touched GT6, so there were a couple instances where I over-throttled and lost traction. But I do recall exactly how my CSR Elite wheel felt with this 2nd combo I was running and I was much smoother navigating those mid-lap chicanes at Silverstone.
You can also hear the motors when the FFB kicks in, it's a small high pitched noise, it's almost not worth noting, I only heard it because I had the volume on my TV so low.
I'll try and find some time to play with the CPX ABS dial this weekend and update the firmware to v23, depending on how well the baby sleeps
Jerome
Dx wheelstand came today all most ready for my first trip around the track with a wheel.
