Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

[diesel97]

I've done a few laps in Gran Turismo 6 so I suppose I can post some first impressions.

First, this thing is good, really good. I've used a Logitech G27, a few Fanatec wheels, a Thrustmaster T500 RS and the T300 RS is my favorite. The wheel feels very good in my hands, the force feedback feels great, it is powerful but still very smooth and it makes driving an absolute joy. The wheel centers perfectly with GT6 and I went to the options to set the force feedback strength to 8 and went to town. Really liking the wheel so far.

Unfortunately I do have one issue with the T300 RS, the pedals specifically. For what they are, they are very good, actually. I was expecting something like the Logitech DFGT pedals but I think they're more comparable in feel to the G27, certinaly not as good as the T500 RS set though. My issue, however, is more about the calibration. It seems it takes a little bit of travel before the throttle or brake registers, so there is a fairly large deadzone. For me personally it really isn't a big deal, but it is one of the first things I noticed when I started driving. I think that if I connect the wheel to the PC and calibrate everything, that may fix the issue so I'm not worried at the moment.

As far as the wheelstand, I am extremely satisfied with it. I took a Viper out to Lagune Seca and the 'Ring and not once did I feel the stand move an inch. It felt as solid as when I had my T500 RS mounted to a desk. Also, I had a question yesterday so I sent an e-mail to wheelstand and within 3 hours I had my response from them, with multiple pictures showing me everything that I had asked about. So not only do they have a great product they have great customer service as well.

Really looking forward to playing more GT6 when I get home from work (damn third shift!) and it is going to make the wait for Project CARS even harder. I'll also be trying to calibrate the pedals in the afternoon tomorrow to see if that fixes my issue.

Is their any pedal settings in game ?

 

[HeroStar1988]

Anyone know of or have a hard-mounting diagram or dimensions (hole spacing, footprint of base) for the TH8A? I have one on order and would like to fabricate my custom mount before it arrives.

I just got my CPX adapter and I ordered it in like July or something. I'll definitely reply back here after testing my CSR Elite pedals, TH8A and T300RS in GT6. Amazon says I'll get my wheel on the 20th Prime shippng FTW.


Jerome

Ha, thanks. The television is 92", got a damn good deal on it too. I thought it was huge at first too but I'm used to it now and it makes every other tv in my house feel tiny.
I would think that since official support is added you won't have to change the degrees of rotation after every session. I hope not, at least.



Yes, I purchased the wheel stand specifically for the T300 RS from the Wheel Stand Pro website. It comes with everything needed to mount the T3PA pedals and TH8A shifter, though I have to be honest and say I'm not really sure how the shifter mounts up. I also haven't really looked either because I don't have the shifter yet.



Absolutely, I'll post back in a few days when I've had some time with it.



That looks very well put together but I don't see anything on the website saying it is compatible with the Thrustmaster wheels. I suppose it wouldn't be difficult to drill your own holes though.

I have that racing wheel seat and it's fitted my T300.

Anyone know about CPX....I ordered last week and I wonder how long it is? Thanks.

 

[skazz]

The T300 pedals have an inherent deadzone on PC too. Either you get used to it, change the "brake gamma" to make it less of an issue, or use different pedals...

Glad to hear you guys are also appreciating the T300. I'd also rate it the best wheel I've used, combining the smoothness of belt drive with the low resistance of Logitech's cog drive with added power.

I've only used mine on the PC (my T500 is for PS3 use) so I'm also glad to hear that the GT6 experience is as good as expected.

 

[Blkout]

Guys,
which pedals are better in yiur opinion. CSR Elites or Clubsports V2? Of course along with T300 RS. I am waiting for CPX adapter almost for two months and cant finally wait to test it.

I don't know why but the Clubsport pedals have had quite a few issues with the Hall sensors that control the throttle and clutch pedal. Some people seem to love them so much though that they just accept that they have to perform regular maintenance on the Clubsports to keep them running. I don't find that acceptable at all. The CSR Elites still have the same load cell brake as the Clubsports but have much more reliable pots to control the throttle and clutch pedal which never seem to fail. I would have loved to have the degressive clutch on the Clubsports but I don't want my pedals failing every few months and requiring me to have to tinker with them to get them working again. I've had my CSR Elites for about 6 months now and they still perform the same as the day I got them

Elites have had less issues, and imo offer more bang for your buck.


Jerome

Agreed.

 

[jirin_cz]

I don't know why but the Clubsport pedals have had quite a few issues with the Hall sensors that control the throttle and clutch pedal. Some people seem to love them so much though that they just accept that they have to perform regular maintenance on the Clubsports to keep them running. I don't find that acceptable at all. The CSR Elites still have the same load cell brake as the Clubsports but have much more reliable pots to control the throttle and clutch pedal which never seem to fail. I would have loved to have the degressive clutch on the Clubsports but I don't want my pedals failing every few months and requiring me to have to tinker with them to get them working again. I've had my CSR Elites for about 6 months now and they still perform the same as the day I got them




Agreed.

Thanks! It seems I've just decided for CSR Elites as I don't really want to sending the V2s everytime to Germany for service

What about the inversion kit fo CRS Elites? Does it worth it? I really like to have pedals inverted as in normal car (clutch and break inverted and gas pedal in normal position). I ordered this Wheel stand http://www.pagnian.co.uk/racing-sim...nd-for-g27-g25-t500-rs-fanatec-wheel-140.html based on Darin's review so I could also removed all pedals from its pedal base and mount them directly to the Wheel stand's diamond metal plate - this should be just fine, what do you think?

Jiri

 

[Blkout]

Thanks! It seems I've just decided for CSR Elites as I don't really want to sending the V2s everytime to Germany for service

What about the inversion kit fo CRS Elites? Does it worth it? I really like to have pedals inverted as in normal car (clutch and break inverted and gas pedal in normal position). I ordered this Wheel stand http://www.pagnian.co.uk/racing-sim...nd-for-g27-g25-t500-rs-fanatec-wheel-140.html based on Darin's review so I could also removed all pedals from its pedal base and mount them directly to the Wheel stand's diamond metal plate - this should be just fine, what do you think?

Jiri

I don't have the inversion kit but its on my to-do list. I just wish I had the kit before I mounted the pedals because as I understand it, to use the inversion kit, you basically have to remove the pedals which requires them to be unmounted and I hate to go through that again but I likely will at some point. The inversion kit makes them just like a real car. Not sure on the custom mount, mine are still mounted on the original mount.

 

[jirin_cz]

I don't have the inversion kit but its on my to-do list. I just wish I had the kit before I mounted the pedals because as I understand it, to use the inversion kit, you basically have to remove the pedals which requires them to be unmounted and I hate to go through that again but I likely will at some point. The inversion kit makes them just like a real car. Not sure on the custom mount, mine are still mounted on the original mount.

I see, thank you. I am only little bit worried about the angle of the wheel stand metal plate. Its about 15 degrees angle (and it can not be changed) so I dont know if the pedals wont be to steep and my heels and toes wont hurt. Please whats your opinion on this?

But with Elites as Jerome tols me you can change pedals angle and travel so it should be okay, right? But its possible to changle angle of Elite when they are inverted?

Jiri

 

[micantony]

my bad could have sworn it said out ,most have read it wrong[/

It's out of stock now. Sorry for anyone in the US who didn't get theirs. Who knows how long it'll be before more get in stock at the various sellers.

Thanks for all the reviews and information guys, keep them coming. It's always nice to see what other people do with their setup's. and get ideas/recommendations. 👍

 

[Jump_Ace]

I see, thank you. I am only little bit worried about the angle of the wheel stand metal plate. Its about 15 degrees angle (and it can not be changed) so I dont know if the pedals wont be to steep and my heels and toes wont hurt. Please whats your opinion on this?

But with Elites as Jerome tols me you can change pedals angle and travel so it should be okay, right? But its possible to changle angle of Elite when they are inverted?

Jiri

I think the pedal angle will always be the same (roughly 45 degrees) no matter how much travel you choose. At the bottom of each vertical pedal bar (where you screw the pedal face into) there is a little 'stop' mechanism, which is in place I'm guessing so the pedals don't pop out toward you when racing.

When they are inverted however, it will feel nice as they'll slant outwards from the pedal base out, to the top of the pedal plate (if that makes any sense? :S). I'm told it's pretty nice, but my pedals must be direct mounted for my setup.

Here's my T300RS out in the wild!

Jerome

 

[jirin_cz]

I think the pedal angle will always be the same (roughly 45 degrees) no matter how much travel you choose. At the bottom of each vertical pedal bar (where you screw the pedal face into) there is a little 'stop' mechanism, which is in place I'm guessing so the pedals don't pop out toward you when racing.

When they are inverted however, it will feel nice as they'll slant outwards from the pedal base out, to the top of the pedal plate (if that makes any sense? :S). I'm told it's pretty nice, but my pedals must be direct mounted for my setup.

Here's my T300RS out in the wild!

Jerome

Nice setup Jerome! So when the pedals are inverted the pedals slots intself MUST stay be part of of the Elite's base?

 

[Jump_Ace]

Nice setup Jerome! So when the pedals are inverted the pedals slots intself MUST stay be part of of the Elite's base?

Yea, that's right. There is some attachment that goes between the pedals and the base to invert them.


Jerome

 

[jirin_cz]

Yea, that's right. There is some attachment that goes between the pedals and the base to invert them.


Jerome

Okay, I get it. Regarding the angle - when blue plate where your pedals are mounted would be in 0 degrees angle (the same as the floor) the pedals would be in different angle than you have it now. This is the reason I was asking before if you can adjust the angle of pedals slots itself by changing the spring holes. But it seems you can. Btw. why you cant use inverted pedals with your setup?

EDIT: just watched the video of Elites inversion and I am pretty sure you dont need the plastic base when you have pedal inverted. You can screw the black inversion brackets directly to you rig as have is now - but also inverted.

 

[Jump_Ace]

Okay, I get it. Regarding the angle - when blue plate where your pedals are mounted would be in 0 degrees angle (the same as the floor) the pedals would be in different angle than you have it now. This is the reason I was asking before if you can adjust the angle of pedals slots itself by changing the spring holes. But it seems you can. Btw. why you cant use inverted pedals with your setup?

EDIT: just watched the video of Elites inversion and I am pretty sure you dont need the plastic base when you have pedal inverted. You can screw the black inversion brackets directly to you rig as have is now - but also inverted.

Ah, that's good to know you don't need the pedal base. I guess then if that is the case, it would work for my setup just fine. But I like it how it is now


Jerome

 

[Adrenaline]

Saw it mentioned a few pages back, but didn't find a specific answer other than to call Customer Service. Any of the people receiving their new T300RS' yesterday/today getting the wrong power cord in the US? It says 100-125 version, and that's what my outlets say, but it has two 'wide' prongs, rather than 1 wide, and 1 skinny like normal US outlets allow for.

The user manuel shows that U.S. Models should be using the 100-125v outlet plug, the box lists the 100-125v model, the power cord says only for use with 100-125v, and my outlets say 125v right on them... Yet, it's the incorrect prongs.

Anyone else have this come up?

 

[diesel97]

were did you buy it from ?

 

[Adrenaline]

were did you buy it from ?

Frys.com.
Honestly, the longer I look at it, it appears to be a manufacturing defect, not the incorrect cable.

Here you can see both prongs are the 'wide' type. US standard outlets are 1 wide + 1 thin, or many cables simply have both thin prongs. (Driving Force GT for example)
I'm actually curious whether I should just grab my dremmel and make a slight modification...

 

[Jump_Ace]

I too have the 100-125V version. But I have just one wide prong. I'd trim it with a dremmel because of the proprietary plug on the other end. Getting a replacement at this time could take forever : /


Jerome

 

[diesel97]

Frys.com.
Honestly, the longer I look at it, it appears to be a manufacturing defect, not the incorrect cable.

Here you can see both prongs are the 'wide' type. US standard outlets are 1 wide + 1 thin, or many cables simply have both thin prongs. (Driving Force GT for example)
I'm actually curious whether I should just grab my dremmel and make a slight modification...

if you do look at female end and their should be one prong that is fatter than the other ,and if it is a flat cable follow it back and match it to a the fat male and shave the other one

 

[Adrenaline]

if you do look at female end and their should be one prong that is fatter than the other ,and if it is a flat cable follow it back and match it to a the fat male and shave the other one

I'm not sure I follow? Both ends are male. One end goes into the wall/outlet, and the other goes into the steering wheel, but both are male ends.

Can some people with a T300RS and US cable, look at their Cable for me?
One of the cables should have writing engraved into it that reads:
(UL) SPT-2 6257428 2x0.824mm²(18AWG) VW-1 105°C 300V PT2 LP

Can you tell me which prong that cable leads to? The thin or wide prong?
Hopefully multiple people can respond, so that I can verify they are all the same.
If I can get that info, then I'll know which one to grind down, as based on my research, it does matter.

 

[diesel97]

you are rite it shouldnt matter , the one with writing on it should be the "+" fat blade (us standers ) china should be the same

P.S. I'm a sparky

 

[JimBowL_]

I think the pedal angle will always be the same (roughly 45 degrees) no matter how much travel you choose. At the bottom of each vertical pedal bar (where you screw the pedal face into) there is a little 'stop' mechanism, which is in place I'm guessing so the pedals don't pop out toward you when racing.

When they are inverted however, it will feel nice as they'll slant outwards from the pedal base out, to the top of the pedal plate (if that makes any sense? :S). I'm told it's pretty nice, but my pedals must be direct mounted for my setup.

Here's my T300RS out in the wild!

Jerome

Nice setup Jerome, when did you receive your t300rs?

 

[novadave]

Frys.com.
Honestly, the longer I look at it, it appears to be a manufacturing defect, not the incorrect cable.

Here you can see both prongs are the 'wide' type. US standard outlets are 1 wide + 1 thin, or many cables simply have both thin prongs. (Driving Force GT for example)
I'm actually curious whether I should just grab my dremmel and make a slight modification...

That is definitely a manufacturing defect as this style does not exist under the Nema specification.
This "2-prong" plug and socket design, with two flat parallel non-coplanar blades and slots, is used in most of North America and on the east coast of South America on lamps; consumer electronics such as clocks, radios, and battery chargers; and other double insulated small appliances that don't require grounding (earthing).
All NEMA 1 devices are two-wire non-grounding devices (hot-neutral) rated for 125 V maximum.

If it makes you feel any better you can look at the cable for the text embedded into the wire - this would be the ( hot side ) narrow blade. you could also look at the end of the plug between the two blades for the text that is between the blades. when reading the text the narrow blade should be on the right side.

So go ahead and use a dremmel or some other toll such as a good pair of wire cutters to trim down one blade.

Note - the difference between a three blade and two blade plug is the two blade uses a internally grounded circuit in case of a short and the three blade is externally grounded. Normally the two blade design can be reversed as needed.

 

[Soulfresh_ACV]

if you do look at female end and their should be one prong that is fatter than the other ,and if it is a flat cable follow it back and match it to a the fat male and shave the other one

That is definitely a manufacturing defect as this style does not exist under the Nema specification.
This "2-prong" plug and socket design, with two flat parallel non-coplanar blades and slots, is used in most of North America and on the east coast of South America on lamps; consumer electronics such as clocks, radios, and battery chargers; and other double insulated small appliances that don't require grounding (earthing).
All NEMA 1 devices are two-wire non-grounding devices (hot-neutral) rated for 125 V maximum.

If it makes you feel any better you can look at the cable for the text embedded into the wire - this would be the ( hot side ) narrow blade. you could also look at the end of the plug between the two blades for the text that is between the blades. when reading the text the narrow blade should be on the right side.

So go ahead and use a dremmel or some other toll such as a good pair of wire cutters to trim down one blade.

Note - the difference between a three blade and two blade plug is the two blade uses a internally grounded circuit in case of a short and the three blade is externally grounded. Normally the two blade design can be reversed as needed.

No. If you modify the socket, you run the risk of voiding warranty should there be any other manufacturing defects. Request a new wheel. Yeah it'll take a while until you get a new one but at least you have one that will last long if not still under warranty for a year.

 

[Jump_Ace]

Nice setup Jerome, when did you receive your t300rs?

On Thursday, via Newegg 👍


Jerome

 

[cjr3559]

There's a wheel available on Amazon through a vendor called Rossi's Place that's selling it for $500 not including shipping. Ouch.

 

[micantony]

Yeah, unless you want to void your warranty, i wouldn't mess with the plug.

Call fry's immediately. All you need is a new plug, not an entirely new wheel. They or thrustmaster should be able to take care of you quickly. Good luck.

 

[Saidur_Ali]

The T300 pedals have an inherent deadzone on PC too. Either you get used to it, change the "brake gamma" to make it less of an issue, or use different pedals...

Glad to hear you guys are also appreciating the T300. I'd also rate it the best wheel I've used, combining the smoothness of belt drive with the low resistance of Logitech's cog drive with added power.

I've only used mine on the PC (my T500 is for PS3 use) so I'm also glad to hear that the GT6 experience is as good as expected.

Concerned by the deadzone of the pedals. Do you have latest revision of the T500RS pedals? Do they also have a deadzone? I wonder if any pedal set by Fanatec or Thrustmaster is as good as the Logitech pedals in terms of initial response? Tempted to cancel T300 GTE order due to pCARS delay and have a feeling that there will be a Gran Turismo version of the T300 with probably better pedals than standard.

 

[skazz]

The T500 (latest version) pedals have a small deadzone. Personally while driving I've never noticed it or had a problem with it. I suspect the reason for the deadzone is to avoid spiking pots during the lifespan of the wheel.

How important is it to you that your pedals react within the first millimeter of travel?

 

[Saidur_Ali]

The T500 (latest version) pedals have a small deadzone. Personally while driving I've never noticed it or had a problem with it. I suspect the reason for the deadzone is to avoid spiking pots during the lifespan of the wheel.

How important is it to you that your pedals react within the first millimeter of travel?

Very important as I think it will help lap time if pedals respond quicker. I was looking at RSR LiveTiming leaderboards for Assetto Corsa and it seems most of the top times are using Logitech pedals.

 

[Khyber]

Concerned by the deadzone of the pedals. Do you have latest revision of the T500RS pedals? Do they also have a deadzone? I wonder if any pedal set by Fanatec or Thrustmaster is as good as the Logitech pedals in terms of initial response? Tempted to cancel T300 GTE order due to pCARS delay and have a feeling that there will be a Gran Turismo version of the T300 with probably better pedals than standard.

i doubt they will ever put different pedals with t300/tx ever to drive people to t3pa