Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread
- Thread starter Soulfresh_ACV
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- 3,875
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
So everything is working fine; CSR Elite Pedals to CPX Adapter (uh, literally plug and play, it just :censored:ing works!) to T300RS with TH8A shifter 👍 However, because I don't want 4 cables (power, cpx, th8a-requires direct usb connection to ps3-ps4 supposedly can plug into wheelbase directly, t300 usb to ps3) laying everywhere, I decided to go back to just the gas and left-foot braking with the paddle shifters until PCars comes out.
And I checked my csr elite diagram and it's correct
I did have to re-center the T300 (by pressing Start, Select & Mode for a few seconds), then I tried to tweak the cpx adapter, but I found having the load cell and the gain at 100% is great so it's easier to get to full braking (and slightly faster). I will next try fiddling with the ABS adjuster to see about getting it to vibrate just before lock up.
I'll also mess with the T300 settings more, but so far it's an excellent wheel. After using an @eKretz super-powered CSR Elite wheel, this ranks right up there in my book. Because A) I never cranked the Elite wheel FFB up past 3 or 4 since it slows your laps down and B) the way the you have to compensate for the road is something new. I did some laps in a ZZII at Laguna and I had to hold the steering wheel to the left to keep it straight down the straight a little, just as if I was fighting an incline. I'll next try a few laps at daytona speedway to see what is needed to do there. I heard you have to turn the wheel against the slope a lot to keep the car straight in real life.
More to come as I get more time with the wheel. I'll also post the settings I prefer when I get to that point.
Oh, and my wheel also stopped spinning to the right when I powered my ps3 off too (I'm sure it's normal tho), there must be some interruption in the calibration command when the ps3 powers off...like maybe it's refreshing the usb connection, which triggers the calibration command in the wheel, but then the ps3 turns off before it can finish the calibration. *shrug*
EDIT: I did some more laps and I found that having the new FFB sensitivity and Torque options set to 7 was a great balance; having the wheel snap to center just enough to help with counter-balancing the car on exit, while at the same time providing the right amount of FFB without sacrificing too much lap time. If I want to go 'faster' I'll probably kick the FFB torque to 5 or 6. But when I tried it at 1, it was like I was using a DFGT again
I also love the increased resolution in the steering, I found it's helped in two ways, A) as you would expect, it's more precise in turning, making it easier to find the apex and exit with good throttle. And B) when transferring weight through a chicane the increased resolution really helps to ease the weight transfer left and right. Granted it's been 4 months since I've even touched GT6, so there were a couple instances where I over-throttled and lost traction. But I do recall exactly how my CSR Elite wheel felt with this 2nd combo I was running and I was much smoother navigating those mid-lap chicanes at Silverstone.
You can also hear the motors when the FFB kicks in, it's a small high pitched noise, it's almost not worth noting, I only heard it because I had the volume on my TV so low.
I'll try and find some time to play with the CPX ABS dial this weekend and update the firmware to v23, depending on how well the baby sleeps
Jerome
Jerome, please do you recommend ordering second spare load cell for CSR Elites? Or do you think CSRs are reliable enough?
Jiri
- 3,875
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
just to be clear: Is this when you try to push the wheel past the software-set end stop? So for instance if you have it set to 900 degrees and you push it further than 450 degrees left or right of center?Hi, sorry for my english
When I overcome the force of the FFB, my steering wheel starts to vibrate like an electric shaver (even stronger) and sounds respectively. I think this is a problem in the motor. Or maybe it's normal for T300RS?
- 9,622
- Portland, OR
- Jump_Ace
- JUMPxACE
My first brake load cell lasted me 3 years with two and a half of those years having super heavy use. They are pretty reliable, however, like any component it will wear out eventually, so if you can get your hands on one to have as a spare, I'd recommend it. Especially since it's the easiest part to replace and you can be back to racing in under 5 min.
Jerome
Thanks! I am going to order CSR elites + invertion kit so I will add load cell as well. At least I will save some money for eventual extra shipment. And yes, as you said I can race again in few minutes if it will fail.
How long you've been wainting for CPX adapter from down payment?
Jiri
- 1,676
- Marietta, GA
- micantony
Hi, sorry for my english
When I overcome the force of the FFB, my steering wheel starts to vibrate like an electric shaver (even stronger) and sounds respectively. I think this is a problem in the motor. Or maybe it's normal for T300RS?
From my understanding, the second Force Feedback setting (Sensitivity) is what is potentially causing that for you. It defaults to 8 in GT6 i think, turn it down to your liking. The higher the value, the more your wheel will shake at it's center with every bump and undulation in the track, even when going straight, it is not a 100% flat surface.
The first setting (Torque), it how hard the resistance of the wheel is. Turn it down if you don't want it to be so "Heavy" feeling.
good luck. Play around with them going from 1 to 10 and you will see what i mean.
I haven't found my sweet spot yet.
- 1,676
- Marietta, GA
- micantony
I've been using 5/8, but i need to hard mount my pedals before i can really do proper testing. Coming from a DFGT, it's very nice that i can rest my left foot on the brake pedal without it engaging. But i find the base sliding all over the place because of the extra stiffness 
.
Anyway, it's a nice wheel thus far (not that i have much to compare it to other than my DFGT).
.Anyway, it's a nice wheel thus far (not that i have much to compare it to other than my DFGT).
- 9,622
- Portland, OR
- Jump_Ace
- JUMPxACE
Yep, I have my CPX adapter and it works great. I have it plugged into my PS4 for power since I'm using the other usb port on my ps3 for a ps4 controller to play Borderlands 3 with 👍
Jerome
Jerome
- 1,391
- vermont
- diesel4x497
not sure how you can hangon to wheel at 7/7 ?
I tried 4/5 and it was swerving down the straight ,going to try 1/5 see how that works
Anybody having trouble in option menue ? i got in their for wheel button set up and could'nt get out (circle did not work ) all buttons frooze up , had to use the PS button to end game
- 3,875
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
Wheel oscillation is from the FFB Sensitivity: it governs wheel weight and centering spring, and I suspect it also sneaks in something to reduce central deadzone.
On the T500 I (and many others) have been using FFB Sensitivity = 1 to avoid oscillation. However, that lightens the wheel up by removing any damping, which might be too light for many users of the T300. A slightly higher value might be better, as long as it doesn't cause oscillation.
FFB Max Torque is how powerful the simulated forces are. On a T500 you don't need more than 2-4 set for that, I would expect 5-6 to be a good value for the T300.
On the T500 I (and many others) have been using FFB Sensitivity = 1 to avoid oscillation. However, that lightens the wheel up by removing any damping, which might be too light for many users of the T300. A slightly higher value might be better, as long as it doesn't cause oscillation.
FFB Max Torque is how powerful the simulated forces are. On a T500 you don't need more than 2-4 set for that, I would expect 5-6 to be a good value for the T300.
- 830
- Australia
- Soulfresh-ACV
I've been using 5/8, but i need to hard mount my pedals before i can really do proper testing. Coming from a DFGT, it's very nice that i can rest my left foot on the brake pedal without it engaging. But i find the base sliding all over the place because of the extra stiffness
Anyway, it's a nice wheel thus far (not that i have much to compare it to other than my DFGT).
See how great it is that PD have finally implemented the extra FFB settings in GT6. Everyone have different settings with the same wheel, that means a lot as GT fan.
- 830
- Australia
- Soulfresh-ACV
Did anyone get any delivery updates from their Amazon, Newegg, Frys order? It's pretty bad from both Thrustmaster and these retailers without updates for their customers. 
- 239
I'm using a DFGT as well and I'm thinking about buying a T300. What's your verdict: massive improvement or just niceI've been using 5/8, but i need to hard mount my pedals before i can really do proper testing. Coming from a DFGT, it's very nice that i can rest my left foot on the brake pedal without it engaging. But i find the base sliding all over the place because of the extra stiffness
Anyway, it's a nice wheel thus far (not that i have much to compare it to other than my DFGT).
? What's good and not so good?
- 1,676
- Marietta, GA
- micantony
I'm using a DFGT as well and I'm thinking about buying a T300. What's your verdict: massive improvement or just nice
I haven't spent enough time with it yet to give you a decent view. It is definitely smoother feeling all around though. I could easily feel what the car was doing and respond properly in relation (oversteer, etc..).
It's MUCH quieter too.
I admit, i expected the Rim to be 12" like the T500, but it's the exact same size as the DFGT FYI at just under 11 inches (28 cm?). Which is fine with me.
The brake pedal is MUCH stiffer than the non-existent DFGT resistance. This will allow me to properly left foot brake now.
And i need to learn where to program the buttons as it's a whole new mapping option (having used the DFGT for 4 years I am too used to all the button's and their placements).
Other than those first impressions, i've only driven about 3 or 4 laps on the Nordschleife thus far. I expect to get it hard mounted this weekend and then I will be spending more time with it.
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- 200
- JimmyLoops
Hi, sorry for my english
When I overcome the force of the FFB, my steering wheel starts to vibrate like an electric shaver (even stronger) and sounds respectively. I think this is a problem in the motor. Or maybe it's normal for T300RS?
I cancelled my order so there's one less person in line ahead of you. Amazon has no idea because thrustmaster doesn't give a damn about informing retailers in the states about availability. If you ordered from amazon, they have no idea and they do what is called a drop ship. This is just a direct order from thrustmaster and on amazon there are many orders. I know because their rep told me they got briefed on what to tell customers asking about t300. My guess is that amazon orders are backed up but they don't know the actuall number of orders. Frys told me how many pre orders they had so far and I almost pre ordered one knowing that there would still be a few avail to ship a few weeks back. Since then they sold their first shipment. If you call frys, they ussually know how many they'll have because they actually stock the wheel in store. Though most of them just get swooped up in shipments. Last I called they said they get them in shipments of 12-17. They expect a new shipment by early November. Frankly I'm actually enjoying my t500 a lot more now that I've picked up a few new racing games for ps3 and PC.Did anyone get any delivery updates from their Amazon, Newegg, Frys order? It's pretty bad from both Thrustmaster and these retailers without updates for their customers.
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- 1,391
- vermont
- diesel4x497
NEED HELP FAST
I cant get my brakes to calibrate ,I have unplugged and replugged everything at least 6x
I dont touch the pedals until any at the race track ,in lobby ,nothing works
I get half brake pedal and or the brake stays on at 1/4 or no brake at all
Its pi**ing me off ,i want put some laps in
I cant get my brakes to calibrate ,I have unplugged and replugged everything at least 6x
I dont touch the pedals until any at the race track ,in lobby ,nothing works
I get half brake pedal and or the brake stays on at 1/4 or no brake at all
Its pi**ing me off ,i want put some laps in
LeGeNd-1
Premium
- 7,265
- Australia
- GTP_LeGeNd-1
Hi people,
I'm considering buying the T300RS in the near future. My Logitech G25 which has served me well for the last 6 years has gotten slightly off centre recently. I swapped the optical encoder disc with a metal one and it's a bit better, but it's just a patch job and if I decided to get a PS4 in the future I have to get a new wheel anyway.
My question is, how is the long term reliability of T300? Besides the calibration problem my G25 has been flawless since I bought it. No problems with the wheel, shifter or pedals at all. It went through some crazy abuse through the years; I did the RB Challenge, LeMans 24h and Nurb 24h on GT5 with the X1 on FFB 10 with no problems at all. Does the T300 have the same bulletproof reliability? Because if I buy a wheel, I'd like it to last at least a generation of consoles. Alternatively, are there any plans for Thrustmaster to release a new wheel soon (within the next year) that might be better and around the same price range (T500 is out of my budget)?
Apologies if this has been answered before in the thread. 28 pages is quite a lot to wade through
I'm considering buying the T300RS in the near future. My Logitech G25 which has served me well for the last 6 years has gotten slightly off centre recently. I swapped the optical encoder disc with a metal one and it's a bit better, but it's just a patch job and if I decided to get a PS4 in the future I have to get a new wheel anyway.
My question is, how is the long term reliability of T300? Besides the calibration problem my G25 has been flawless since I bought it. No problems with the wheel, shifter or pedals at all. It went through some crazy abuse through the years; I did the RB Challenge, LeMans 24h and Nurb 24h on GT5 with the X1 on FFB 10 with no problems at all. Does the T300 have the same bulletproof reliability? Because if I buy a wheel, I'd like it to last at least a generation of consoles. Alternatively, are there any plans for Thrustmaster to release a new wheel soon (within the next year) that might be better and around the same price range (T500 is out of my budget)?
Apologies if this has been answered before in the thread. 28 pages is quite a lot to wade through
- 3,875
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
The T300 has been out for a month... Obviously long term reliability of the wheel itself is unclear. However, it shares 99% of the internals with the TX. The initial batch of TX wheels had some issues but it looks like things are ok now, don't see many TX issues popping up on forums.Hi people,
My question is, how is the long term reliability of T300?
Apologies if this has been answered before in the thread. 28 pages is quite a lot to wade through
Whether a T300/TX would last as well as the G25 is anyone's guess, of course.. The oldest TX with it's belts and brushless motors is just over 1 year. The T500 has a similar belt drive and those brushed motors and belts seem to be going fine after 3-4 years though.
As for the future: clearly Thrustmaster now has the TX and T300 wheels as their mainstream console FFB options. The T500 sits in a strange place, costing more, better pedals, but older tech. There's a chance Thrustmaster will release a revised T500 with brushless motors for GT7, but there's also a chance the T500 will simply be discontinued. A new wheel in the T300 price class within the next 2-3 years seems very unlikely.
As it happens I purchased my T300 to replace a G25 from early 2008 which still functions great. The T300 is a significant upgrade, as I discussed a couple of times earlier in this thread.
