Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

[Spitfire77]

That was the last message I received from TM Customer Support.

The best part is (if the wheel can still be repaired). I was given this wheel few months ago. If if you ever receive TM product as a Gift, be sure to ask also for the receipt, or do not even think of buying as a second hand. This wheel WILL fail and you will have a broken wheel and nothing to do about it.

I also sent a msg direct to TM and they just ignored. The Customer support is a joke compared to Logitech.

I managed to temporally resolve my problem. Using every time the TM Calibration application before playing.
(http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...00RS-Self-Calibration-Issue-at-startup-solved). It might die for good soon, until then I will use and this is gonna be my last TM product.

Cheers.

I will not argue that Thrustmaster has reliability issues with their products - that is true.

However - The instructions for the wheel it states NEVER to not touch the wheel while it is calibrating.

"AUTOMATIC RACING WHEEL AND PEDAL SET CALIBRATION The wheel automatically self-calibrates when you plug the racing wheel into an electrical outlet and connect the racing wheel’s USB connector to the console. During this phase, the racing wheel will rotate quickly towards the left and the right, covering a 900 degree angle, before stopping at the centre. WARNING: Never touch the racing wheel during the self-calibration phase! (This could result in improper calibration and/or personal injuries.)"

Also- proof of purchase is required for almost all warranties on electronics. They need to know the date of purchase to know if the warranty is still valid and if it was purchased from an authorized retailer. They do not, and should not, be responsible for wheels past the warranty date or ones purchased from unauthorized retailers or private sellers who could modify the product.

If the item was a gift you must know the person well enough to do as 35mm said an obtain a receipt.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

That would prevent it from calibrating for no reason (is: turning on the system to play a FPS but you left the wheel plugged in and it calibrates).

You would think that's common sense. But I only play racing games so I never had that problem myself.

Even so I don't see how calibrating more than needed can still harm the wheel. If they do proper QA and calibrate the wheel thousands of times it should be well within the tolerance limit.

 

[Ian_83]

^ I totally agree.

The wheel should easily withstand its own calibration procedure. Thrustmaster obviously believe that it won't withstand regular calibration, hence their response on the matter. Pretty poor really.

 

[Thomas2012]

I'm still loving this wheel so far no issues or at least that I can tell. Beautiful in comparison to the great DFGT. I was wondering if anybody runs a custom rim on their T300? I'd like either an old style wood grain type look or a full racer.

 

[Soulfresh_ACV]

I'm still loving this wheel so far no issues or at least that I can tell. Beautiful in comparison to the great DFGT. I was wondering if anybody runs a custom rim on their T300? I'd like either an old style wood grain type look or a full racer.

Contact Sam Maxwell (link on OP) if you want custom wheels with PC/Console compatibility. Not cheap though. Otherwise get the Thrustmaster 599XX EVO 30 Wheel Add-On Alcantara Edition which will set you back around AUD$250

 

[Brent Mills]

I wonder if I can ask a fellow T300 user a big favour. At the moment I'm in conversation with TM support about my motor which feels like it's lost a lot of strength, as I've had to turn up the gain a huge amount on all the games I play to get decent feeling FFB and now I get a lot of clipping which I didn't have before. They have asked me do a short video holding the wheel and playing the test forces in control panel which I did here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_hjmgTzOhlUWWFoSDkwUkhOYTA

Please take a quick look (only 1 minute vid), and then do the same test on yours and tell me if the results are similar. As you can see I'm having to hold the wheel firmly but there's nothing terribly overbearing. Even better if your wheel definitely seems to be much stronger, a quick video of your own would be absolutely brilliant, as then I would have direct contrasting evidence to show Thrustmaster as I can see it's going to be difficult to convince them anything is wrong. If your results look similar, well then I guess I don't need to worry about any problem with my wheel.

(Please note my windows CP gain setting is at 100% and can be seen at the end of the video)

 

[shoemaker]

I wonder if I can ask a fellow T300 user a big favour. At the moment I'm in conversation with TM support about my motor which feels like it's lost a lot of strength, as I've had to turn up the gain a huge amount on all the games I play to get decent feeling FFB and now I get a lot of clipping which I didn't have before. They have asked me do a short video holding the wheel and playing the test forces in control panel which I did here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_hjmgTzOhlUWWFoSDkwUkhOYTA

Please take a quick look (only 1 minute vid), and then do the same test on yours and tell me if the results are similar. As you can see I'm having to hold the wheel firmly but there's nothing terribly overbearing. Even better if your wheel definitely seems to be much stronger, a quick video of your own would be absolutely brilliant, as then I would have direct contrasting evidence to show Thrustmaster as I can see it's going to be difficult to convince them anything is wrong. If your results look similar, well then I guess I don't need to worry about any problem with my wheel.

(Please note my windows CP gain setting is at 100% and can be seen at the end of the video)

I looked at your video, I would say it seems ok but it really is hard to tell. When I hooked up my T300 to pc, the strength was really strong, I was impressed, now when i use it with project cars on ps4, there is hardly any of that ffb strength there, even with high settings. I dont know if its the game or what but I was really dissapointed when driving. I just dont see the point of even having the high ffb strength when the wheel cant handle it and goes into cool down mode.Iam hoping that the problem is project cars

 

[Telstar]

I'd like to give an update on the issue with the paddle shifter I mentioned two pages ago.
I called the Thrustmaster support and they wanted me to open the wheel to check the inside and see if there is something broken or something is improperly assembled. I haven't found anything wrong so I simply put the wheel back together and guess what? All of a sudden it works! I don't know exactly why or how, but it works. Okay, it still feels looser and not quite as sharp the other paddle but there is a noticable clicking point now and every time I pull the paddle it shifts. For now, it is certainly good enough for me and I will leave it like that as long as it keeps on working.

 

[AussieStig]

07-04-2016 I just received a brand new T300RS and am very surprised and disappointed by the FFB fading to almost non existent within 30 seconds to a minute of starting to race in any title, no matter what the strength settings are in game. All settings in the control panel are set to 100%! Firmware and drivers were installed yesterday, PC only user here so not even bothering with finding a console to connect it to.

Additionally there is an acrid burnt plastic smell coming form the wheelbase during use. I have tried the fan always on mode, holding mode button and turning TS knob to the right, the lamp flashes twice to indicate manual mode. I can't tell if it is on or off, I don't hear any sounds coming from within the case, I am assuming it is quite audible if it is always on? Can someone confirm that please?

I have contacted Thrustmaster, and I have to jump through several hoops now to convey the problem. Videos / paper work etc etc.

Looking forward to your reactions, cheers AussieStig

 

[Brent Mills]

Sorry to hear that Aussie Stig, I have weak FFB problems with mine too, although it's more a case of it's just weaker than it used to be, period. I guess we just have to jump through the hoops with TM and see what they say.

 

[insert coin]

You should be able to hear the fan, it's not dead silent at all. In fact I find a bit annoying when not using headphones. My T300 does not fade at all. The fan kicks in after 1-3 minutes of racing when set to automatic. I think it is a cooling problem.

 

[skazz]

My fan doesn't even come on until after 10+ minutes, and no fade here.
30 seconds fade sounds completely broken, simple as that.

 

[35mm]

Interesting to see all these different behaviors.

The fan on mine starts just a few seconds after I start a race. It keeps on even after ending a race: 10 seconds or so on Driveclub; 1 to 5 whole minutes on Project Cars.

Never felt any kind of fade, though.

 

[SilverSE102]

My fan doesn't even come on until after 10+ minutes, and no fade here.

Mine does the same thing as yours, after I stop racing the fan shuts off within a few minutes.

 

[Glipizide78]

is there a limit on how many times a wheel can be rma'd? mine has gone bonkers again

 

[shoemaker]

I wonder if anybody had modified the T300 with more cooling ? I would consider doing something if it meant no fade.It seriously irritates me.

 

[Ian_83]

is there a limit on how many times a wheel can be rma'd? mine has gone bonkers again

If you've had multiple RMA's and are unhappy ask for a refund when the wheel next breaks. Just tell them that you feel that the product is not fit for purpose.

I wonder if anybody had modified the T300 with more cooling ? I would consider doing something if it meant no fade.It seriously irritates me.

How long does it run without fade?

I guess that you could install a better quality fan into the wheel base, but make sure tat the warranty has expired before doing a mod to the wheel. If it's under warranty RMA it. 👍

 

[Awong124]

I wonder if anybody had modified the T300 with more cooling ? I would consider doing something if it meant no fade.It seriously irritates me.

I've seen someone install a larger fan. Don't know if that would fix the fading.

How long does it run without fade?

Personally, I have never experienced fade, even after hours of use. The fan would come on of course, and it would feel warm, but it never feels any different for me.

 

[Ian_83]

Personally, I have never experienced fade, even after hours of use. The fan would come on of course, and it would feel warm, but it never feels any different for me.

👍

That's why I'm asking. If he is running ffb maxed out then I can probably understand some fade, but otherwise I'd suspect he has an issue with the wheel (which wouldn't really be a surprise).

 

[epic_apri_39]

Can someone explain to me what fading is? Is it temporary degrading of FFB effectiveness from long stints or is it permanent?

 

[Ian_83]

Can someone explain to me what fading is? Is it temporary degrading of FFB effectiveness from long stints or is it permanent?

Temporary.

When the wheel base gets excessively hot, the FFB is reduced until the temperature drops lower and then it should return to normal again. During this time the fan will ramp up and try to aid cooling. Unless you're really hammering the wheel with max FFB settings, you shouldn't notice much drop in 'feel'.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Just another example of poor engineering/Q&A really. I remember back in GT5 I ran the Nurburgring 24H enduro with the RedBull X1 at max FFB for 9 hours straight. The wheel base is literally boiling and you could smell burnt plastic, but no reduction in FFB whatsoever.

 

[Cocomoto]

Just another example of poor engineering/Q&A really. I remember back in GT5 I ran the Nurburgring 24H enduro with the RedBull X1 at max FFB for 9 hours straight. The wheel base is literally boiling and you could smell burnt plastic, but no reduction in FFB whatsoever.

In wich wheel was that?

 

[epic_apri_39]

In wich wheel was that?

Sounds like it may be a high end Logitech wheel.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

In wich wheel was that?

Oops sorry I forgot to put the info in my post. It was the Logitech G25. Got it in 2009 and still going strong to this day 👍 Just had to change the optical encoder and give the pedal potentiometers a good clean every 6 months or so. Oh, and the leather rim has started flaking off, but that's because I sweat a lot.

 

[Cocomoto]

Logitech made such strong wheels, my 8 year's old DFGT still going.

I just bought the giimex hardware pieces so i can use it on the PS4, since my T300 has gone to hell. The bad thing is that to my order arrive at my country, it took 4 days(Sweden to Brazil), but it is now 13 days in the same place(Curitiba, where every international package get's in the country). That's so frustrating!!

 

[Igano]

Is the T300 as fragile as the TX?

Is the T150 more durable then T300?

 

[skazz]

Is the T300 as fragile as the TX?

Is the T150 more durable then T300?

TX and T300 use identical motor, power supply, mechanism, except that the T300 has greater degrees of rotation. Note that there are 3 different power supply options worldwide, so people in different countries will see different power supplies (EU internal, US internal, US external are three I'm aware of).

 

[Igano]

TX and T300 use identical motor, power supply, mechanism, except that the T300 has greater degrees of rotation. Note that there are 3 different power supply options worldwide, so people in different countries will see different power supplies (EU internal, US internal, US external are three I'm aware of).

I am aware of that, just asking if the reliability issues of TX have carried over exactly the same on the T300?

 

[Ian_83]

The TX wheel has also had its fair share of problems. Just take a look at the Forza (Xbox) forums and you'll find people complaining.