Thrustmaster T500RS/T300 wheels thread

  • Thread starter Diablo_rf
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While that does solve the issue of it getting progressively harder, it doesn't make it any easier to drive when the pedal requires nearly 200lbs of force to reach maximum braking. That may be reasonable in an actual car that is decelerating but in a stationary rig like mine that's too much effort (and I'm a weightlifter and cyclist).

Your "max" brake requires 200lbs of force? I would try and figure what your personal "oh **** slam on brakes" pressure is (for me it equals both feet pressing on pedals about) and have that be what gets you to max breaking by adjusting it. What do you use for your brake pedal resistance? (Edit - Oh I see you have a load cell - those expensive things have adjustments no?)

Honestly - you are not likely to get the detailed "sim" options you ask for from Gran Turismo so you are going to have to work around it. That has just always been how PD operates.
 
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Your "max" brake requires 200lbs of force? I would try and figure what your personal "oh **** slam on brakes" pressure is (for me it equals both feet pressing on pedals about) and have that be what gets you to max breaking by adjusting it. What do you use for your brake pedal resistance? (Edit - Oh I see you have a load cell - those expensive things have adjustments no?)

Honestly - you are not likely to get the detailed "sim" options you ask for from Gran Turismo so you are going to have to work around it. That has just always been how PD operates.

Unfortunately the load cell itself is not adjustable. Ricmotech claims 70lbs max force but installed in my T500RS I'm certain it requires a whole lot more than that. I can leg press 400lbs easily (40+ reps) and I'm struggling to max it out (admittedly I only use one leg for braking).
 
A fun little video I put together for anyone considering a t300 or who already owns one. Sort of an unconventional review. Hope you guys enjoy.
I was laid off work and currently back at school for IT Networking, so don't take the dark self-deprecating humor about my lack of sim gear too seriously. The fall is shaping up to be an exciting time in my life, and having a few hours of free time to make these videos makes sim racing even more rewarding for me when it helps a fellow gamer / racer.
Cheers!

What happened to your video?
 
No, it's GT Sport that recalibrates, I have none of these issues in Forza 7 or PCars 2.
That's interesting. I'm sure on PC the wheel is constantly re-calibrating pedals, regardless of the game. How do console games do it? First press? First press once the game has booted up?
 
I tried to look without luck, but there's none has shared its settings for t500? It would be great to have at the first post
 
hey are you guys still using PS3 modes on ur T300 so it gets recognized as T500?

Im still using PS3/T500 mode because PS4/T300 mode still has the vibration when you turn the wheel to a certain angle and im waiting for them to fix it because its annoying as hell.

Blows my mind how it seems the majority of you guys don't even notice or care about it to be honest.
 
Im still using PS3/T500 mode because PS4/T300 mode still has the vibration when you turn the wheel to a certain angle and im waiting for them to fix it because its annoying as hell.

Blows my mind how it seems the majority of you guys don't even notice or care about it to be honest.

I finally picked up GTS and I feel the vibration when the car is pushing or understeering. I just try not to as it is slower.

I have my wheel settings at 3 torque and 1 sensitivity and it seems to work ok.
 
I'm not seeing much vibration during understeer. Everyone's T300 seems to behave differently :odd:

maybe it isn't understeer it could be when close to full lock? Some cars show it more than others.

Real not bad at all though for me.

And yes I agree seems lots of different reports on how it works.
 
Im still using PS3/T500 mode because PS4/T300 mode still has the vibration when you turn the wheel to a certain angle and im waiting for them to fix it because its annoying as hell.

Blows my mind how it seems the majority of you guys don't even notice or care about it to be honest.

I'm with you on this one, I'm surprised people are saying the problem is fixed.
 
gh3
I tried to look without luck, but there's none has shared its settings for t500? It would be great to have at the first post
I might do so, but I won't be at home until next week to play the game.
Also everyone have their own taste on how the ffb should feel like, stronger or lighter, so my advice will be to set it to your liking.
 
So they fixed the problem only for t500 wheels?

Definitely, the shudder on large steering angles made the game nearly unuseable. After 1.03 it's fine. Now we just need them to add a proper calibration option for the brake pedal instead of this auto rubbish.
 
Definitely, the shudder on large steering angles made the game nearly unuseable. After 1.03 it's fine. Now we just need them to add a proper calibration option for the brake pedal instead of this auto rubbish.

Indeed they do as I'm having the same issue with the T3PA pedals using the resistance cone. When first calibrating, the system identifies that you want max pressure at the distance set by the cone which it does when you stop. After that you don't get max. pressure as it varies with regard to how much you need to slow down, so I assumed they must have deliberately incorporated this to make cars easier to drive when making the transition from braking hard in a straight line to cornering.

Just saw that this is most relevant thread so thought I'd add it here, as I'd already mentioned it in less relevant ones.

Update: I replaced the rubber cone with an 8mm bolt set at a similar depth to experiment with the consistency of the calibration, and can confirm that there were no further issues, as it seems the system cannot precisely hold where you want the desired max. travel position to be which is why some people so far are having difficulty with braking. And to compound this, the maximum brake pressure (in white on the meter) rapidly drops off when you brake from a reasonable speed by about 30% even though the same pedal position is maintained which pretty much confirms for me that PD have added this to make it even easier to transition from heavy braking to cornering, on top of all the assists, brake bias and diff settings. They also need to allow you to adjust the strength of the brakes instead of just a brake bias adjustment so that it is better suited to less pedal travel.

It's woeful that something as critical as braking has been overlooked but it's also daft marketing all these super expensive wheels to go with the game if they can't be setup properly.
 
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Hi, I see a stream where the steering ratio was 180 degree, others with 270 or more.
It's different for every car or it depends from the class? Gr4,gr3 ecc
 
I have a T300 and hardly ever get the vibrations.

If you are getting them, it's because you're pushing the front of the car too hard in to the corners... and if you're doing this, you'll be losing loads of time.

Try dropping your entry speed and 1) the vibrations won't happen & 2) you'll go faster.

As for whether the effect is realistic or not... my 996 chatters like this when I push the front too hard in the dry. So feels realistic enough to me.
 
Unfortunately the load cell itself is not adjustable. Ricmotech claims 70lbs max force but installed in my T500RS I'm certain it requires a whole lot more than that. I can leg press 400lbs easily (40+ reps) and I'm struggling to max it out (admittedly I only use one leg for braking).

In GTS or in any other game on ps4 you must do these steps to calibrate pedals on startup.

When game loads, press brake hard and keep it like that for 3s. Done, your brake is calibrated.

I also have t3pa pro with ricmotech loadcell.
 
I have a T300 and hardly ever get the vibrations.

If you are getting them, it's because you're pushing the front of the car too hard in to the corners... and if you're doing this, you'll be losing loads of time.

Try dropping your entry speed and 1) the vibrations won't happen & 2) you'll go faster.

As for whether the effect is realistic or not... my 996 chatters like this when I push the front too hard in the dry. So feels realistic enough to me.
I drop my entry speed and every one who's behind me using a controller runs in to you.. it wasn't like this on gt 6
 
I drop my entry speed and every one who's behind me using a controller runs in to you.. it wasn't like this on gt 6

So everyone you're racing is just plowing in to the corners, understeering wide, and then sorting it out?

I only started playing GTS on Friday, and spent Friday, Saturday and half of Sunday finishing the licenses/missions/circuit tests. I did 3 races on line Sunday afternoon... in 2 I got pole and lead from start to finish - had to avoid a few 'late brake dive bombs' in to the 1st corner at Nurb GP, but after that I hardly saw another car... easy to see them coming in the rear view mirror, delay turning in, and then getting them on the cut back. In the other I qualified 2nd and had a great, clean race with 2 others running around my pace.

Maybe focus on staying out of trouble and improving your ratings... that way you'll eventually move out of the lower classes where the idiots will be?
 
I'm with you on this one, I'm surprised people are saying the problem is fixed.
It means you're turning it too far. If you turn your wheels to a certain point that is beyond ideal, you're just scrubbing off rubber. The vibration is a way to allow you to sense that it happening. Remembere faster you go, the more sensitive the wheel rotation becomes, so if you find yourself feeling that vibration, that's the physics talking back to you to let you know that you're not helping it turn, you're just turning it too far and scrubbing off rubber. If you find yourself in that situation more times than not, that's likely an indication that your driving techniques need refinement. Guys in my iRacing league used to complain the MX5's tires would crap out on them 5 laps before the end of the race, but it wasn't the tires fault. It was the driver's. Those of us with higher end wheels typically never had that issue. and I explained to them it's because they aren't feeling out the limit of their tires when they're cornering. This problem can present itself in several scenarios. Most of the time, the driver is either; driving too aggressively, causing inability to detect subtle changes in force / build up, etc. Or, they're running lower end wheels like a g27 or the GT force or sidewinder, and their force feedback is set way to high or too low, where there's no progression to turn in, and they're litterally unable to feel a build up of grip, or the limit of grip. Idealy, you always want to feel a sort of "spring" when turning in, and by that I mean the resistance should be peeking right as your tires approach the limit of grip, and hopefully your wheel of choice isn't clipping at this point. It's ok for the wheel to be close to it's peek, but it's better leave headroom and keep the setting at 5 and under for strength, and 4 and under for sensitivity. (I run 5,1) everyone will eventually decide on an ideal setting for ffb. Having a little headroom left over when your tires hit the max grip allows your wheel to dance around a bit while going over bumps as well so keep that in mind. Nothing demonstrates this better than hot lapping on nordschleif. Once you're past that limit of grip though, and try to compensate by turning farther, it'll do you no good, and when you turn it so obsurdly far that the front wheels are essentially driving partially sideways and scraping off enormous amounts of rubber compound, that's when in GT, (in real life too) you'll typically begin to feel stuff through the wheel that you'd otherwise not have. The effect GT Sport uses can feel a bit exaggerated, but that doesn't matter; that effect was implmented for one reason; to let you know "hey, buddy, turning in further ain't gonna help you get through this corner better, so next time estimate your entrance speed better and I won't vibrate and bother ya".
 
So everyone you're racing is just plowing in to the corners, understeering wide, and then sorting it out?

I only started playing GTS on Friday, and spent Friday, Saturday and half of Sunday finishing the licenses/missions/circuit tests. I did 3 races on line Sunday afternoon... in 2 I got pole and lead from start to finish - had to avoid a few 'late brake dive bombs' in to the 1st corner at Nurb GP, but after that I hardly saw another car... easy to see them coming in the rear view mirror, delay turning in, and then getting them on the cut back. In the other I qualified 2nd and had a great, clean race with 2 others running around my pace.

Maybe focus on staying out of trouble and improving your ratings... that way you'll eventually move out of the lower classes where the idiots will be?
My point is that controllers can brake late and go round the corners faster then a steering wheel it doesn't matter what level you are
 
It means you're turning it too far. If you turn your wheels to a certain point that is beyond ideal, you're just scrubbing off rubber. The vibration is a way to allow you to sense that it happening. Remembere faster you go, the more sensitive the wheel rotation becomes, so if you find yourself feeling that vibration, that's the physics talking back to you to let you know that you're not helping it turn, you're just turning it too far and scrubbing off rubber. If you find yourself in that situation more times than not, that's likely an indication that your driving techniques need refinement. Guys in my iRacing league used to complain the MX5's tires would crap out on them 5 laps before the end of the race, but it wasn't the tires fault. It was the driver's. Those of us with higher end wheels typically never had that issue. and I explained to them it's because they aren't feeling out the limit of their tires when they're cornering. This problem can present itself in several scenarios. Most of the time, the driver is either; driving too aggressively, causing inability to detect subtle changes in force / build up, etc. Or, they're running lower end wheels like a g27 or the GT force or sidewinder, and their force feedback is set way to high or too low, where there's no progression to turn in, and they're litterally unable to feel a build up of grip, or the limit of grip. Idealy, you always want to feel a sort of "spring" when turning in, and by that I mean the resistance should be peeking right as your tires approach the limit of grip, and hopefully your wheel of choice isn't clipping at this point. It's ok for the wheel to be close to it's peek, but it's better leave headroom and keep the setting at 5 and under for strength, and 4 and under for sensitivity. (I run 5,1) everyone will eventually decide on an ideal setting for ffb. Having a little headroom left over when your tires hit the max grip allows your wheel to dance around a bit while going over bumps as well so keep that in mind. Nothing demonstrates this better than hot lapping on nordschleif. Once you're past that limit of grip though, and try to compensate by turning farther, it'll do you no good, and when you turn it so obsurdly far that the front wheels are essentially driving partially sideways and scraping off enormous amounts of rubber compound, that's when in GT, (in real life too) you'll typically begin to feel stuff through the wheel that you'd otherwise not have. The effect GT Sport uses can feel a bit exaggerated, but that doesn't matter; that effect was implmented for one reason; to let you know "hey, buddy, turning in further ain't gonna help you get through this corner better, so next time estimate your entrance speed better and I won't vibrate and bother ya".
Scrubbing off rubber where abouts on the track or inside the wheel arch
 
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