Thrustmaster T500RS/T300 wheels thread

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The T300 certainly has on-board memory.
Ok thank you for that. So its just the t500 then? That would make sense as i only have the t500 and its never remembered my settings when ive tried to change them on pc. 👍
 
Ok thank you for that. So its just the t500 then? That would make sense as i only have the t500 and its never remembered my settings when ive tried to change them on pc. 👍

The settings applied on a PC with the driver (spring, strength, etc) should not affect how it behaves on the ps4. New Firmware can affect how it feels on ps4 if they changed something though.

To find out for yourself if the driver settings do, set the main force setting to 0% on the PC driver with the wheel connected to the PC, then hook it to ps4 and drive. There should be basically no FFB if the driver settings are saved. Then go back to pc set the main force to 100% go back to the ps4 and drive again. It should have a huge difference.

As a sanity check, I did try this a long while back when I was messing with pCARS FFB on ps4 to make sure I had a full understanding of what was going on. It made no difference on how the wheel felt on ps4. There has been new FW since then, but I cannot imagine them adding this feature.
 
I plugged my T300 into the PC and put every single FFB setting to zero. Then I plugged into my PS4 and difference was immense. The game settings (F1 2017) were able to adjust the wheel FFB and it felt so different from before.
 
Anyone else get a gentle rumble whilst in the menu?
I’m new with this wheel, so I thought this was normal. Haha. New to wheels with fans too.

I’m too lazy to scroll forever through these pages. Will anyone share a good T300 setup? I don’t think it’s bad stock, but then again I haven’t played with a wheel in forever..
I got this T300 Alcantara Edition and Alcantara Playseat two days ago. I’m not faster than using controller yet though, but it sure is nice.
 
Hello , as a T500RS owner, I have yet to buy a PS4pro to play my shrinkwrapped GTS game, question please

do I need to do anything special to the wheel , i.e switch modes? from PC to PS4? or is it simply plug and play?

I will update it to latest firmware first, that I've done numerous times.

does the PS4 need drivers as does PC? or is that built in to their kernel already?

I see v46 firmware up on Thrustmaster support page( via new drivers)

thx,
 
I’m new with this wheel, so I thought this was normal. Haha. New to wheels with fans too.

I’m too lazy to scroll forever through these pages. Will anyone share a good T300 setup? I don’t think it’s bad stock, but then again I haven’t played with a wheel in forever..
I got this T300 Alcantara Edition and Alcantara Playseat two days ago. I’m not faster than using controller yet though, but it sure is nice.


In this game, I have my FFB set quite low as I don't want to overheat and damage the wheel. I'm not bothered if I don't feel bumps or kerbs all the time.
I don't like to turn the wheel a lot to go around a corner so I have the sensitivity quite high. I imagine people will shudder at my settings but it works for me.
 
In this game, I have my FFB set quite low as I don't want to overheat and damage the wheel. I'm not bothered if I don't feel bumps or kerbs all the time.
I don't like to turn the wheel a lot to go around a corner so I have the sensitivity quite high. I imagine people will shudder at my settings but it works for me.
My wheel doesn’t get warm yet, the fan works like a charm. So far not experiencing the negative things about this wheel either. Lucky so far. What’s your settings then?
 
Press buttons "ST" + MODE" simultaneously and then wait to see if the red light flashes once. The fan should kick on afterwards. This turns on the " Fan always on " mode, and ensures you will NEVER experience heat fade. Trust me on this one. Forces are good up to 6 for strength in GT sport ffb settings, judging from my time driving it so far. And I'd say up to 5 for sensitivity, but not more. Though I run sensitivity on 1 with strength at 5 or 6. Once in a while at 7 but not ussually. I preffer it that way. If you haven't played in a few days, go back and try again. The settings were messed up before the update so it always felt like it was set at 5+ strength.
Overall i find the forces feel more progressive from grip, to loss of grip, when keeping settings at or below 5, for both in general. I've noticed when sensitivity is set higher, turn in doesn't feel as progressive, and road bumps start to feel mechanical.

Use the wheel the way it's meant to and don't dits around out of some silly fear you'll break it fellas. You can go easy on the wheel when your warranty expires lol.
Hope these tips help.

-techdrivelife
 
I plugged my T300 into the PC and put every single FFB setting to zero. Then I plugged into my PS4 and difference was immense. The game settings (F1 2017) were able to adjust the wheel FFB and it felt so different from before.

Seriously? Wow.. I am going to have to update the FW on my T300 and try it out when I get a chance. It really should have no affect on the console as it uses a different driver. If all the settings were working and you set them to 0% you would have no FFB at all. So maybe there is one thing that is being held in the memory. Honestly if this is true, it would actually be a bug that should be reported to Thrustmaster.

Edit - I just gave this a try and put the new v27 FW on my wheel. The only difference I notice from the FW update is that it does not spin to the right as hard when I first power it on.

I put all sliders on the PC control panel to 0% then hooked it to ps4 and drove on Assetto Corsa, then hooked it back to PC set all sliders to 100% and then went back to Ps4 AC and drove same car same track.. tires.. etc.. Feels exactly the same. The only thing that was a little different was when I forgot to put the switch back to PS4. When you hook it to a PC it says it should be in the ps3 switch position (I am assuming during FW updates as well) so I had to switch it back and forth.
 
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Hi, I am using the same wheel and have had no problems mapping buttons. I have these labels I printed up and applied to my wheel. If they are of any use I can send you the file for you to print them.

Andy
Thank you very much for offering your help. By all means you can send me your templates. Still not sure why the game does not see my wheel.
 
Does you wheel work at all, or is it just a problem with the configuration, if the wheel works then try and set your buttons using the T500 configurator, failing that, try it in PS3 mode in T300 mode, then if that doesn't work try T500 again. (to switch from one to the other, turn off in PS4 until the light goes out then switch it over to PS3)

Thank you Bonkers. My wheel works with Project Cars 2, Assetto Corsa and RFactor 2 all on PC. It also work for Assetto Corsa on PS4.
Not sure what is going on. But I will try your procedures. Thank you again.
 
What do you guys set ur 2 FFB settings in GTSports at? I have it at FFB 3/5 atm not sure if I should change it. on T300rs GT, will try updating my drivers (not really sure what I should be feeling).
 
With the T300RS GT I'm using

Controller steering sensitivity = 0
FFB Torque = 6
FFB sensitivity = 6

I used to use FFB sensitivity 5, but with some cars (AMG GT Gr. 3) I'd have a lot of understeer and lack of turning angle. Changing it to 6 fixed that straight away. I might switch back to 5 for cars that don't have understeer.
 
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When using a clutch and shifter there's some kind of cap to how fast you can shift that differs between cars. In an MX-5 I can shift pretty quickly but in GT86 I have to hit the clutch, count to then, check my email, and bake a cake before I shift or it gets stuck in neutral.
 
I’m new with this wheel, so I thought this was normal. Haha. New to wheels with fans too.

I’m too lazy to scroll forever through these pages. Will anyone share a good T300 setup? I don’t think it’s bad stock, but then again I haven’t played with a wheel in forever..
I got this T300 Alcantara Edition and Alcantara Playseat two days ago. I’m not faster than using controller yet though, but it sure is nice.
You only have 2 settings in GT Sport to tweak. I personally run 4/1. There's a possibility though different firmware on the wheel makes what works for one, not feel great for another. A lot of sim games have a FFB 'clipping' graph in the HUD that lets you see what levels are being output to the wheel letting you tweak it to ensure it's not constantly exceeding 100% or conversely being very low and not making use of the full range. GTS doesn't have this so you kind of just have to do it by feel. If the overall FFB strength setting is too high, the feedback will lack any detail during high load i.e the game is constantly asking more than 100% from the wheel and all you experience is a constant/ heavy force with no detail.
 
I am with all driving assists off, now with new setup findings can use TCS 0 and ABS "mild". But still have some little rattling on understeer, with T300 GTE.
 
1 torque, 10 sensitivy. Feels good except on straight line there is none ffb as feeling like deadzone. T300rs alacantara. That rattling on understeering is developers choice to show that, it's not error on wheel.
 
Anyone else experience slight knocking when ffb kicks-in, rocking the wheel from left to right. You can hear and feel it like something is loose inside. Not super loud but just annoying sometimes. T300rs gt
 
It seems that there isn't any way of calibrating the pedals in GT Sport. The Ricmotech Load Cell requires a phenomenal amount of force to reach full output and so in pCars2 I just calibrate it for moderate force to max braking. In GT however it auto-calibrates which means every lap braking requires more and more force until it gets to the point that I need to just about push the pedal through the frame to slow down for a corner, and as you can imagine leads to running off track a lot of the time. This was the same in GT6 I had hoped that for GT Sport they would have something a bit more advanced and useable.
 
It seems that there isn't any way of calibrating the pedals in GT Sport. The Ricmotech Load Cell requires a phenomenal amount of force to reach full output and so in pCars2 I just calibrate it for moderate force to max braking. In GT however it auto-calibrates which means every lap braking requires more and more force until it gets to the point that I need to just about push the pedal through the frame to slow down for a corner, and as you can imagine leads to running off track a lot of the time. This was the same in GT6 I had hoped that for GT Sport they would have something a bit more advanced and useable.

What I do in games that have this auto calibration each time they start up; while in the menus I mash down the brake pedal with both feet a few times. That way I get full brake operation on the first corner.
 
It seems that there isn't any way of calibrating the pedals in GT Sport. The Ricmotech Load Cell requires a phenomenal amount of force to reach full output and so in pCars2 I just calibrate it for moderate force to max braking. In GT however it auto-calibrates which means every lap braking requires more and more force until it gets to the point that I need to just about push the pedal through the frame to slow down for a corner, and as you can imagine leads to running off track a lot of the time. This was the same in GT6 I had hoped that for GT Sport they would have something a bit more advanced and useable.
Isn't that a fault of the wheel? Doesn't the T300 keep re-calibrating on each harder press? Not a lot the game can do about it if so.
 
Isn't that a fault of the wheel? Doesn't the T300 keep re-calibrating on each harder press? Not a lot the game can do about it if so.

No, it's GT Sport that recalibrates, I have none of these issues in Forza 7 or PCars 2.
 
What I do in games that have this auto calibration each time they start up; while in the menus I mash down the brake pedal with both feet a few times. That way I get full brake operation on the first corner.

While that does solve the issue of it getting progressively harder, it doesn't make it any easier to drive when the pedal requires nearly 200lbs of force to reach maximum braking. That may be reasonable in an actual car that is decelerating but in a stationary rig like mine that's too much effort (and I'm a weightlifter and cyclist).
 
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