- 830
- Australia
- Soulfresh-ACV
Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter Thread
- Thread starter Soulfresh_ACV
- 421 comments
- 144,564 views
- 1,789
- The Motor City
- HAL20xx
- HAL20xx
Is anyone having trouble with their shifter when connected through DIN (i.e. how all Xbox One players have to connect)? I got my TH8A yesterday and when playing Forza 5 or Forza Horizon 2, the shifter would randomly go from 4th to 2nd gear. Even the pedals would intermittently cut out. I noticed that it seems to happen when there is a lot of vibration coming through the steering wheel, as though something is wrong with the DIN connection in the wheel housing itself. I disconnected the shifter and rebooted Forza - the pedal connectivity issue completely disappeared.
I connected the shifter to my PC via USB and had no problems with iRacing in the hour+ I tested it.
I connected the shifter to my PC via USB and had no problems with iRacing in the hour+ I tested it.
- 2,442
- freedomland of freedomness
- ELmarctuff
- mightymufffin95
Noob here, but can you use the H-pattern without a clutch pedal? Like just have the game do the clutch for you? I have ordered the t3pa pedals and it turns out they never worked, since I have a t300rs I only have a brake and gas pedal.
Which system and game are you having the issues with? I have the TH8A shifter and T3PA PRO pedals with my T300RS and run it fine on my PS4 and PC. For months I ran without a manual clutch (T3PA/PRO was on backorder for a while) and was able to use the TH8A just fine since most games I've played have an auto clutch option (The Crew and Project CARS on PS4; and Assetto Corsa, Project CARS, iRacing, almost all DiRT and GRID games, etc. on PC).
Hope that helps.
- 2,442
- freedomland of freedomness
- ELmarctuff
- mightymufffin95
Can't speak for PS3, thought here is a dedicated PS3 mode (which doubles as the PC mode). May be a game compatibility issue more than system compatibility - I recall not being able to use the TH8A or automatic clutch (one or both) in Driveclub on PS4.
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
My TH8a arrives tomorrow and just being curious. From what I have read the thread that screws into the shifter system is M6 correct? So wouldn't something like this be perfect for a short shift system? - knob included.
Would be about $24 shipped to my location.. not sure where they are shipping from but $15 for shipping seems a lot. As the item is only $8.81
http://us.essentracomponents.com/sh...gory=&parent_category_rn=144567&storeId=10152
EDIT - there is another company as well that makes different lengths with different handle types. To my location about $15 with shipping http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/m...gers/gear-level-handles-and-split-hubs-111736
I guess the handle might be a bit small.. 100mm over all length might be a bit sort too. Won't know till my TH8a arrives and I measure it out.
Would be about $24 shipped to my location.. not sure where they are shipping from but $15 for shipping seems a lot. As the item is only $8.81
http://us.essentracomponents.com/sh...gory=&parent_category_rn=144567&storeId=10152
EDIT - there is another company as well that makes different lengths with different handle types. To my location about $15 with shipping http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/m...gers/gear-level-handles-and-split-hubs-111736
I guess the handle might be a bit small.. 100mm over all length might be a bit sort too. Won't know till my TH8a arrives and I measure it out.
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- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
Yes the top thread for the shift knob is M9 but im talking about the threads on the bottom of the shaft that screws into the base.
The item i am looking at is a shaft and handle in one that is actually made for machine shop and industrail tools. It just happens to have m6 thread as an available option.
If you look at yipzone it states you can make your own shaft from m6 threaded rod for the th8 rs and i am assuming the th8a is the same.
http://www.yipzone.com/simracing/th8rs_short_shaft
- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
The thread is M6x1.00. I make threaded shift knob/shaft kits for these and can confirm this is the size. The foundation of my short shaft and knob kit is actually a peice of M6x1.00 threaded rod. Check out my google+ page SethFrancisSimRacing and take a look at the "TH8RS/A short shaft with knob kit". Heres a link:
https://plus.google.com/photos/106945807751986203845/albums/6147812958194931633
https://plus.google.com/photos/106945807751986203845/albums/6147812958194931633
- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
Just thought I'd ad to my above post, the thread I speak of is the one within the base that the original chrome shaft threads into. You will see these threads by simply twisting the shaft that the shift knob threads onto counter-clockwise. My kits will thread directly into those threads and will be full assembled with any knob you like at any length you like. I am in Branford Ct and will ship anywhere (at buyers expense) for those who may be interested. I was putting off advertising these so as not to compete with Basherboards however it seems as though they are not currently producing short shafts for the TH8 currently and I am happy to help those in need with a full shaft and knob kit until Basherboards (or any others) are making theirs again.
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
Ah yeah I remember seeing yours on another post. They look nice, seems you have the better rod sleeve now.
Once I get settled in with my TH8a if I do feel the need for a shorter shifter I may hit you up.
- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
Thank you for your interest. Yes the rod sleeves I use from now on will be the plastic/nylon material. Same as the stock sleeve. I am currently in the process of making one for a lad in Australia. He is choosing his own shift knob and having me fit it to my kit. I can do that for anyone, as ling as its a universal shift knob I can make it fit. Whenever your ready just let me know and well work something out. My kits definitely provide a much nicer feel than stock. I'll all be adding pics to my google+ with the new sleeve installed as soon as I get some time away from work.
- 1,391
- vermont
- diesel4x497
They look good as far as a sleeve you could use a shrink tube and they come in different colors,and it wont rattle at all . Just an idea for you.
- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
Yes I tried shrink tubing, the thickness of the metal spacer is just thick enough to fit into the 1st and 2nd gear gates (it is thicker than the original TH8 spacer). With anything thicker than about one or two layers of electrical tape the spacer will rub against the plastic portion of the TH8 gate ( on left side of spacer) and the metal portion of the gate (on right side of spacer) when you go into 1st and 2nd gear because the gate is narrower and the shaft is at an angle for those gears. With one or two layers of electrical tape it doesn't rub and gives a softer knock when hitting the limiter however the tape wears quickly from the friction created by sliding against the gates while switching gears since you tend to "ride" the gates when shifting quickly. The plastic spacers are the same material as the stock spacer and are about the same outside diameter. They work exactly like the original spacer except they fit tightly onto the shaft. I order spacers with an inner diameter a tiny bit larger then use a couple tight wraps of electrical tape on the shaft to make up the difference. This allows me to use some force to friction-fit the plastic spacer and also gives a nicer feel when hitting the gate limiters as there is a tiny bit of dampening from the electrical tape. In this situation the tape will not wear out as it is not subject to any movement or friction under use. In fact without being told you wouldn't even know it was there and in all reality I could use anything to take up that space I just chose electrical tape as it worked well under testing. I have been looking into getting a small lathe in the future so that I can machine these shafts to my (or the customers) specification (much like Basherboards) rather than assemble them from commonly available components as I do now and still offer them as a ready to use kit with a knob. There would of course be added cost for time if I were to start machining these, right now the majority of the cost goes to the knob, and in some cases a metal adapter I purchase from a company here in the US for $3 plus shipping. That along with the cost of the common hardware store items takes up most of the price I sell these for. This means I do not make very much at all off of selling these kits. I do appreciate the feedback though! My whole point in making these and presenting them to the sim racing community is because I would like to receive feedback as this is my first "product". So if anyone has any ideas feel free to let them be known 
. If you only need a shaft than Basherboards may be the best option (not sure when he will be making these again but hopefully soon) however if you don't wish to source out and fit your own knob than my kit would be a suitable option. With my kits there is no hardware or knob sourcing. Once received you simply thread the short shaft and knob assembly straight into the original female threads inside the gate of the TH8 (where the original shaft threads), then tighten the set nut, and your good to go!
. If you only need a shaft than Basherboards may be the best option (not sure when he will be making these again but hopefully soon) however if you don't wish to source out and fit your own knob than my kit would be a suitable option. With my kits there is no hardware or knob sourcing. Once received you simply thread the short shaft and knob assembly straight into the original female threads inside the gate of the TH8 (where the original shaft threads), then tighten the set nut, and your good to go!
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
I got my TH8a shifter.. messed with it a bit. Seems good for now. The stick is not my problem, it is the shift mount location on the wheel stand pro. It is too high and too far forward. I guess a shorter stick would help that a little though.
- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
I feel your pain, I do not have a dedicated cockpit and shifter mounting is always difficult. Especially for my CSS SQ which is far worse than the th8 for mounting. I would have to agree that the short shaft would only help a very little bit if at all since the shifter is too far away. I like to have my shifter some what high compared to how most cars would be but I still like a short throw. My 1990 Thunderbird Super Coupe had a shifter that seemed high up in the car, plus the seat was low, so the shifter was at a point where my elbow would be at approximately 90* when my hand was on the shifter and my elbow and forearm on the arm rest. I really liked that placement for an H shifter as I was able to quickly move my hand from the wheel to the shifter. My current car is a Saab 9-3 and the shifter is too low for my liking. Too far forwards would definitely drive me nuts though. I am not familiar with the cockpit you have off hand but I wonder if you could make a bracket out of wood or metal that allows you to mount the shifter back further?
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
I just got a wheel stand pro - To give you an idea.. this is the wheel mount upside down.. the arm sticking off to the left is the shifter mount.. It lines up with the wheel mounting bolts and just goes straight out to the side. I guess it is similar to using a desk but even on a desk it would be closer to you I would think.
But yes I am going to add an extension to it or make something that is bolted to my folding chair.
- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
I actually use a desk myself and having the shifter mounted to the desk beside the wheel is not good at all. Especially with the tall th8. What I usually do for now until I have a cockpit is clamp the shifter to the side of my chair the turn the gate. Not sure if the pic will cone through whole on my phone but I tried to attach one.
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
Yeah that looks pretty close - I guess I could try that just use the stock clamp and mount it to my chair - good call. That looks more like a normal road car position right at seat level.
I have a couple basic ideas using basic brackets form the hardware store that can work well, might have time tomorrow to take care of it.
Basically get a wide z bracket or two narrow ones (or L bracket and bend the top to make a Z) then bolt it up to the wheel stand pro shifter mount - could even just get a flat one and bend it myself and drill the holes. It will bring the shifter down and closer to me. It does not need to come far if I want it close to the wheel. Will post pics once I get it figured out...
Edit - really like the chair mount idea though.. that would take the force off my wheel stand - not that it cant take it but obviously a chair is more solid than the wheel stand with me pushing on both the wheel and shifter. Still same fix using a bracket from the hardware store.
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- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
The idea you have sounds pretty good, as long as the brackets are relatively strong and not too long. I feel like if it is a really long peice of metal it may have some give to it as the metal flexes (if the metal is thin). My chair mount works ok but unless the th8 is mounted either forwards or backwards it tends to rotate under force as you shift quickly. That is the only issue I have with my chair mount asside from the fact that it is quite low. If I tighten the heck out of the clamp it will hold itself well enough to use somewhat heavily but I dont like to crank on the clamp too much. I just got a CSS SQ table clamp in the mail today along with the SFA1 adapter (both waiting when I got home from work so I will be experimenting with different mounting options for both. My problem is I have to be able to remove each component so I can use my desk to do R/C repairs and other random hardware repairs or mods plus I eat at my desk all the time. I work at a garage here in Branford ct and we have an excellent fabricator/welder plus I already have a couple seats to choose from (corebeau and an old E30 BMW seat) as well as a steel stand to mount the seat to which could be welded to a rig. The issue is I am restricted to my bedroom for SIM racing. At any given time I have in my room my desk, my bed, a couch, a big chair, a bunch of rc vehicles/drones, tools, a round coffee table, and a bunch of other random stuff that one would have in their bedroom lol. I have been considering sacrificing my couch and maybe the coffee table and putting a permanent cockpit in their place. Its just hard to find the time to plan and build everything between my two regular jobs and all the side stuff I usually have going on. I do make sure I dedicate time to what I love though which is SIM racing and the related hardware but I usually do things at a relaxed pace. If you ever have any questions or need any help with any of your hardware related ventures feel free to ask. I can send you my phone number in a private message.
so I will be experimenting with different mounting options for both. My problem is I have to be able to remove each component so I can use my desk to do R/C repairs and other random hardware repairs or mods plus I eat at my desk all the time. I work at a garage here in Branford ct and we have an excellent fabricator/welder plus I already have a couple seats to choose from (corebeau and an old E30 BMW seat) as well as a steel stand to mount the seat to which could be welded to a rig. The issue is I am restricted to my bedroom for SIM racing. At any given time I have in my room my desk, my bed, a couch, a big chair, a bunch of rc vehicles/drones, tools, a round coffee table, and a bunch of other random stuff that one would have in their bedroom lol. I have been considering sacrificing my couch and maybe the coffee table and putting a permanent cockpit in their place. Its just hard to find the time to plan and build everything between my two regular jobs and all the side stuff I usually have going on. I do make sure I dedicate time to what I love though which is SIM racing and the related hardware but I usually do things at a relaxed pace. If you ever have any questions or need any help with any of your hardware related ventures feel free to ask. I can send you my phone number in a private message.
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
The idea you have sounds pretty good, as long as the brackets are relatively strong and not too long. I feel like if it is a really long peice of metal it may have some give to it as the metal flexes (if the metal is thin). My chair mount works ok but unless the th8 is mounted either forwards or backwards it tends to rotate under force as you shift quickly. That is the only issue I have with my chair mount asside from the fact that it is quite low. If I tighten the heck out of the clamp it will hold itself well enough to use somewhat heavily but I dont like to crank on the clamp too much. I just got a CSS SQ table clamp in the mail today along with the SFA1 adapter (both waiting when I got home from work
Yeah I was thinking the metal would have to be pretty thick. I have a friend that can fab/weld up almost anything, he saw my new setup and is looking to do some extra work on the side. So if I provide the materials I can get it done rather cheap. Just need to figure out a design.
(EDIT -This did end up failing, the arm of the chair is tapered and the black grips glued on to the clamps slowly started to slide off - make sure you clamp it on something flat and square that has a large enough surface area for the clamp) For now my elegant solution that, lucky for me, puts the shifter in the perfect location at the perfect angle. Brought over a dinner table chair, clamped to the arm also dual purpose as a passenger seat- Now my T3PA-Pros need to arrive!
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- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
Sweet, that looks like it will work quite well for the time being. Hey maybe someone here can help me. I have just received an SFA1 shifter adapter from a lad in the UK and cannot get it working. I have it all plugged in correctly, the ps/2 to the wheel, the th8 in the shifter port on sfa1 and the usb plugged in to my ps3 (also tired pc) and it will not allow me to shift gears. No matter what I do I cannot get it to transmit shifts. If I unplug the sfa1 from my wheel and plug in my css sq all works perfectly but not with the sfa1 and th8. I have tested/calibrated my th8 in the control panel and tool and everything functions perfectly with the th8 itself but as soon as I hook it up thru the sfa1 I get nothing. I am going to post a couple other places to see if anyone can help me but thought I'd ask in this thread first. very frustrating!
- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
Never mind, got it working!!! not sure why it didn't work at first? I had tried plugging the ps/2 into both ports on the wheel, switched back and forth between shifters, then once I had the adapter plugged into everything except the wheel I shifted thru each gear, plugged into the wheel, and good to go. I finally had input so I could calibrate thru the wheel. This adapter works quite well I must say. My only pet peeve is every time I want to switch shifters I have to re calibrate. That is a Fanatec issue though not the adapters. I thought I would be able to plug the css sq in one port for SQ shifting, and the th8 + sfa in the other port for H shifting. That way I wouldn't have to change or calibrate anything just move my hand from the th8 to the css sq if I want to sq shift but I actually have to recalibrate and mate the css sq to the wheel before I can use it for sq shifting. I knew this would be the case if I wanted to switch H shifters but I figured I could use SQ mode on the css sq while the wheel is calibrated to the th8 for H shifting. I also noticed that with the CSS SQ pushing the shifter forwards is up shift and pulling back is down. This is backwards from what I am used to and backwards from the original fanatec sq shifter (plastic one). I'm not sure if I can map this in gt6 but I will have to look.
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
Took some extra vacuum caps I had around and used them to help me hit 5th and 6th better. They prevent going to 7th and reverse very easily, but still possible, while allowing me something to push sideways against while going from 5th to 6th. Also it helps push naturally down to 4th from 5th while downshifting. Saw it in the Th8 rs thread I think using what looked like RC car fuel hose.
- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
That's a good idea. They are just regular vacuum caps too that you can get for cheap. Does the plastic spacer still slide nicely or does the rubber grip. I guess it wouldn't matter with the stock spacer since it is able to rotate in the shaft. My spacers are fixed on my short shaft kits. I have actually been doing a fair amount of testing this weekend with the first two kits I made (the ones you saw) as well as the same kits with the plastic spacer and I have to say both have held up well. There is no damage to the plastic gate limiter even when slamming gears. I will say the plastic spacer slides much more easily along the metal portions of the gates, I can slide from second to third, fourth to fifth, sixth to seventh and vice versa easier and with smoother feeling when using the plastic spacer as opposed to metal. I also noticed that the rotation issue (issue where the knob adapters allow the knob to spin on the shaft of you twist with a little force) that I have been concerned about is not noticeable at all during play. I put a piece of tape on the sq knob so I could monitor any rotation and it really didn't move unless I actually tried to rotate it. The H knob moved but that is because the only one I have made up right now uses a very cheap knob that will not allow the set screws to be fully tightened. I only used this knob for testing and will never use a collared style knob again. I still prefer to use a metal threaded adapter that threads directly into any shift knob with M16x1.5 threads and onto my short shaft kit. The issue is not all shift knobs come with threads some are held with three set screws. With this style I have to do some modifications to make them fit tight. The metal adapters I have sourced work great for threaded knobs but they are quite expensive, I pay $3 per adapter plus $7 shipping. So it lowers my profit (which is close to null anyways lol) but allows a perfectly tight fit for customers who choose a knob with M16x1.5 threads. I am ordering another sq/H style knob with an unspecified thread size that I believe is the correct size for my metal adapters. Once I have completed a final version I will have an example of my updated TH8 Short Shaft Shift Knob Kit to photograph and present to the SIM community. I am actually pretty excited to see if there is much interest in this. I'm really just trying to get my name known in the SIM community and thought this might be a good way. Plus I love to mod and work on hardware
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
I don't really notice.
- 2,442
- freedomland of freedomness
- ELmarctuff
- mightymufffin95
im having issues with the H-pattern, it seems to be working with the computer, but it doesn't seem to be responding on gran turismo or anything else, i have a t300rs if that helps any.
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