- 5,607
- Belgium
Did you calibrate using the Thrustmaster Tool (on TM site) ?
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Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter Thread
- Thread starter Soulfresh_ACV
- 421 comments
- 144,575 views
- 2,442
- freedomland of freedomness
- ELmarctuff
- mightymufffin95
- 5,607
- Belgium
I thought as much.
You can do the calibrating for H and seq at the same time, the device will remember, so you can just switch plates to move to another way of shifting.
Since you have not done the calibrating yet, that could be the issue you encounter.
- 5,607
- Belgium
Yes:
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=1&fid=2&pid=319&cid=5
Can only be done by means of a PC though.
- 2,442
- freedomland of freedomness
- ELmarctuff
- mightymufffin95
- 146
- Danville
- Glipizide78
Having to send mine in for rma as none of the calibration tools worked nor anything tech support walks me thru over the phone...oh yeah they pay the shipping back for the bases but you pay shipping to Canada for shifter which according to email from Ts they refund you by way of deposit into PayPal or checking account
- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
Hello fellow sim racers! Here are the latest versions of the "Seth Francis Sim Racing TH8 Short Shaft Shift Knob Kit." The latest versions are assembled with no exposed hardware, the upper securing nut is hidden under the threaded collar on the shift knob. This version is fitted with a plastic spacer that matches the material of the original TH8 shift shaft spacer and preserves the life of your TH8 plastic gate limiter. Each kit will include a protective cloth pouch for storage and to protect your shift knob from dust when not in use. The price for the kits shown here is $45 for the black APC knob and $50 for the Hurst knob plus shipping. The SFSR TH8 Short Shaft Shift Knob Kit is sold as a complete ready to install mod, simply fasten the SFSR kit to your TH8RS/A shifter and your good to go! Feel free to check out my google+ page "SethFrancisSimRacing" for more photos and information. Thanks for looking and as always "Keep Driving!"
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
Crudelysloppedtogethershiftermount_V1.0 for the TH8a on my wheel stand pro. Made from low quality H.F. bolts and angled aluminum from a scrap pile.
The stock mount was much to high and far forward.. this is not as low as I like but after only a few laps felt just fine.
Improvements will be (if I ever get around to it) to smooth out the edges, mount it on the bottom of the stock mount to lower a little more, add another piece of angle aluminum as a brace to stiffen, remove the clamp from the TH8a then bolt it on to lower even more, plus maybe some paint and a princess sticker. Oh and replace the nuts and bolts if/when they break.
The stock mount was much to high and far forward.. this is not as low as I like but after only a few laps felt just fine.
Improvements will be (if I ever get around to it) to smooth out the edges, mount it on the bottom of the stock mount to lower a little more, add another piece of angle aluminum as a brace to stiffen, remove the clamp from the TH8a then bolt it on to lower even more, plus maybe some paint and a princess sticker. Oh and replace the nuts and bolts if/when they break.
- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
Crudelysloppedtogethershiftermount_V1.0 for the TH8a on my wheel stand pro. Made from low quality H.F. bolts and angled aluminum from a scrap pile.
The stock mount was much to high and far forward.. this is not as low as I like but after only a few laps felt just fine.
Improvements will be (if I ever get around to it) to smooth out the edges, mount it on the bottom of the stock mount to lower a little more, add another piece of angle aluminum as a brace to stiffen, remove the clamp from the TH8a then bolt it on to lower even more, plus maybe some paint and a princess sticker. Oh and replace the nuts and bolts if/when they break.
Nice work, looks like a solid mount. Now all you need is a nice short shaft with a real, heavier knob
It makes a world of difference, I would go as far as saying it completely transforms the shifting experience with the TH8. You have less leverage so you can feel the notches/clunks as you shift gears far better. Let me know if your interested, I would be happy to make you one of my kits, or if you want to save some cash you can probably make something on your own, you seem like your pretty handy with this type of thing. Even if you don't want to buy one of mine I would still be happy to help you out with the process of making one of your own. I'm always happy to help someone achieve a better SIM racing experience and this one I feel is a must. I can promise if you use a knob similar to what I use with a similar height, you will never go back. I cant even drive with the original knob and shaft anymore, I constantly miss shifts and get jammed up lol. Let me know if you need any help or info.
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
Nice work, looks like a solid mount. Now all you need is a nice short shaft with a real, heavier knob
Maybe later - at one point I had sourced the parts to build one but never got around to it. Thank you though.
- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
No problem, if you need any info or help just ask. The hardest part is sourcing out a metal adapter to go between the shaft and the knob. Most knobs come with plastic adapters that can be made to work with some modification. They aren't nearly as strong as a metal adapter though so the fitment isn't quite as solid.
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
Actually.. I do have some questions. What is the easiest way to get the stock shaft off? Do you put something through the hole at the top (the one in the knob threads) and use it as leverage to turn? Is it possible to break the internals while doing this? Do you need to also hold the input that the shaft threads into with vice grips or something?
I have not even tried yet but figured you would know.
- Edit - I was going to just use a m6 threaded coupling nut and that would be just large enough to fit a universal shift nob adapter. If it does not hold it, Drill a hole and use a set screw, or JB weld.. or w/e it took to make it solid.
Or could just use a thread insert? - http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/...12106001#navid=12106001+4288241574+4288160644
I have not even tried yet but figured you would know.
- Edit - I was going to just use a m6 threaded coupling nut and that would be just large enough to fit a universal shift nob adapter. If it does not hold it, Drill a hole and use a set screw, or JB weld.. or w/e it took to make it solid.
Or could just use a thread insert? - http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/...12106001#navid=12106001+4288241574+4288160644
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- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
Yes, as far as removing the shaft goes you simply put something through the hole and twist counter clockwise like a regular screw. You shouldn't have to hold the female threaded input shaft however I know the TH8A shift shafts can take some force to remove the first time. I usually use the largest Allen wrench I can fit in the hole. If the Allen wrench is too thin or cheap (like the one that comes with the shifter) it may just bend but a black Allen wrench that is just small enough to fit in hole should do the job.
As far as fitment goes, it will depend on the knob. A thread insert should work (providing it is a quality insert with nice threads) if you are using a knob that has M10x1.5 threads such as many aftermarket Honda shift knobs. If the knob is like many of the other universal knobs available it will have M16x1.5 threads, it will be harder to locate an insert to accommodate these knobs as the inside diameter will need to be M6x1.00 and the outside diameter M16x1.5, assuming you use an M6 threaded rod. There are also knobs that have no threads and use 3 set screws, my black kit was made with this style knob, it is a solid fitment with no slack or play but the knob can rotate if I use enough twisting force. It twists a bit to easy for my liking but probably wouldn't bother most, I'm just really anal about little things like that. I will see if I can find a shift linkage that has M6x1.00 threads on one side and M10x1.5 threads on the other. If we can fund one it should work with many aftermarket Honda/jdm style knobs that are available in many styles online. They do not make these rods with M16 threads on one side but I think I saw M10x1.5. They are smooth in the middle between the threads and come in various lengths. I haven't personally used these yet but I read somewhere they will work. You will need to trim the threads though to get the proper thread length. The JBWELD option should work too but may add a lot of weight depending on how much is used and you have to make sure the knob is perfectly straight first. I thought about something like that at one point but decided to go the fully threaded route. If I can locate a shift linkage that I think will work for you I will send you the link.
Edit: Also, if you do find a shift linkage with M6x1.00 threads on one end and M10x1.5 on the other you can easily find a threaded shift knob adapter or thread insert to to go from M10x1.5 I.D. to M16x1.5 O.D. In order to accommodate universal knobs that have M16 threads. If you send me a link to a knob you like I should be able to tell the thread size.
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
Cool thanks for the info.. I took the knob of the stock shaft this morning, forgot it is flat on the sides so I can use a wrench to remove.
My first plan is for a very basic one.
M6 Rod
M6 coupling nut - provides larger area for a universal adapter to be shoved on about 10mm wide
M6 nuts to hold the coupling nut in place
Plastic tube made from a pen to protect the H plate from the threads.
Cheap universal knob that is heavier than the stock one. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QWYO7XO/?tag=gtplanet-20
Threadlock and other various adhesives to use as needed.
Edit -I am realizing a flaw in my plan. The inserts are plastic, I thought they were rubber. So forcing them onto a coupling nut likely won't work. - Maybe some rubber hose will be needed.
Think this one has rubber inserts.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OPYVETS/?tag=gtplanet-20
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- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
Yes, most adapters are indeed plastic. You have a couple options, you can use the smallest plastic adapter and (likely 8-9mm id) wrap electrical tape or something around the m6 shaft to take up the difference, this method will allow the knob to rotate though. A slightly better option would be to go to an auto part store and see if you can find a piece of hose such as fuel hose (non injection variety preferably) that will fit tightly on the m6 rod and inside the shift knob. The idea is to have hose that can be threaded on the rod and allow the knob to be threaded onto the outside of the hose. You may need to use some ingenuity if you cannot find a hose that fits the rod and the knob, maybe you can use the coupler and the hose over the coupler. Basically anything you can find at a hardware store or auto part store that will take up the difference should work. Pick out the knob first as the id of the knob will determine the mounting method. Once you have a knob picked out let me know which knob it is and I will be able to give a better idea of how to mount it.
As far as the spacer goes for protecting the gates goes, anything plastic that is hard and smooth will work, if you use a rubber thing from a pen it will grip the gates and wont be smooth. Preferably something strong enough to be flush mounted at the bottom and have a nut at the top that tightens down on the spacer and fastens the shift knob and rod assembly to the shifter. That way the female thread is flush with the spacer. This provides a much better look and there is no chance of a lower nut hitting the gates. Just see my kit and you'll know what I mean. I use a nut above the spacer that is used to fasten the whole shift knob assy to the th8.
The knob is the most important thing though, once you know what Knob you like send me a link and ill check it out and let you know if it will work well.
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
Thanks again for all your info. I am just going to take a stab at it - part of the fun for me is creating and making it work with what ever I've got. If it doesn't work out then at least I had some fun drinking a beer and milling in the garage.
- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
I am the same way. For me its all about seeing how much money I can save while still achieving the same or better result by doing the work myself. I am definitely a DIYer
- 2,442
- freedomland of freedomness
- ELmarctuff
- mightymufffin95
Das tech noob is back, i have recently lost the h-pattern face plate, and was wondering if it's safe to use h-pattern without it? Or if it's kind of iffy.
- 146
- Danville
- Glipizide78
I got an extra h plate...where you located
- 2,442
- freedomland of freedomness
- ELmarctuff
- mightymufffin95
Illinois, why?
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- 146
- Danville
- Glipizide78
I got that Xtra h plate if you want it...i live in ky so shouldn't be much to ship
- 196
- Australia
Got my TH8A shifter a few days ago.
Very happy with it. Using it alongside T500RS and pedals.
Downloaded latest firmware and runs great. plug and play.
Much prefer the sequential over H Pattern. Althougj i havnt played to mych6with H pattern yet. Will add a spring to the clutch, its much to soft for my liking having had some cars in the past with very hard clutches.
Great product Currently being used on PS3
Very happy with it. Using it alongside T500RS and pedals.
Downloaded latest firmware and runs great. plug and play.
Much prefer the sequential over H Pattern. Althougj i havnt played to mych6with H pattern yet. Will add a spring to the clutch, its much to soft for my liking having had some cars in the past with very hard clutches.
Great product Currently being used on PS3
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
Im trying to build my custom short shaft with automotive shift knob.. but amazon failed and never shipped my shift knob. it was supposed to be here Thursday with prime. So now it is re-ordered and got a free month of prime. Hopefully it arrives today or tomorrow so I can try and build it.
Oh and if anyone was wondering.. you can take the top (silver part) of the stock knob off and put weight inside it. There is a phillips screw you can get to by taking it off the shaft and putting a smaller precision screwdriver inside and unscrewing it. I found out because mine fell apart haha.
Edit - the shift knob arrived.. I present the $17 short shift kit. - I am planning to cover the H pattern red mapping on the top of the knob.. it looks nice but I am not willing to perfect the exact position for it to line up correctly when switching back to H mode from sequential.
1. m6-1.0 x100mm bolt
2. 6 pack of m6-1.0 nuts ( I used 4 )
3. a pen and something to cut it up with.
4. a cheap amazon universal shift knob (the one I picked happens to be all aluminum and hollow so I did not need to shorten the bolt) http://www.amazon.com/ESUMIC®-Automotive-Speed-Shift-Shifter/dp/B00NFF2PC8/ref=sr_1_471?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1439499953&sr=1-471&keywords=universal+shift+knob
Tools - drill with large drill bit (drill bit just smaller around than the m6 nut a the tips) gloves, hammer, and two 10mm wrenches.
I measured the height (got it wrong twice forgot to check 7th gear slot) this is where the bottom nut of the jam tightened nuts needs to be and marked with fine point sharpie. Make sure to measure based on how deep the plastic insert goes into the shift knob.
I had to drill out one of the plastic inserts to be slightly too small for the m6 nuts. This is what the glove is for to protect my hand while holding the insert as I drilled out. *The plasic insert goes on the bolt then I thread the nuts on the bolt and jam locked them into place (jam locking is just tightening them against each other with two wrenches). I then used a hammer and one of the 10mm wrenches to force the plastic insert onto the m6 nuts that were jam locked into place on the m6 bolt.. **Put one of the extra nuts on the bolt threads to protect them, you do not want to hit threads with a hammer. M6 nut edges are sharp enough to cut into the insert so that it it solid and the insert does not turn - that is why the insert was only drilled out so far that the m6 nuts would only fit with brute force.
Cut the plastic pen tube to be too long for tightening down the bolt into the shifter. Then slip it on and tighten the bolt down into the shifter without the knob. The bolt x-head top made it easy to tighten it down against the pen tube so it was snug.
Get the knob and tighten it down on the plastic insert - it will get tight. - If the knob is getting to tight and you are turning the bolt into the shifter smashing the pen tube - then remove the shaft from the shifter and jam the two extra nuts together on the end of the shaft and put a wrench on them so you can hold the bolt with the extra jammed nuts while tightening down the knob on the plastic insert. My shift knob goes pretty far over the plastic insert - that is were I messed up the measuring as the shift knob bottom edge would hit the h gate plate and I could not put it in 7th or reverse. - if you removed the shaft form the shifter now obviously put it back on which would be easy now that the knob is on - tighten it down snug pinching the pen tube.
If you care the orrientation of the knob.. you can cut the pen tube longer or shorter to get this correct.. this is why I said to leave it a bit long.. no need to completely bottom out the bolt into the shifter, but you do want it to thread in pretty far.
Only improvement I need.. the pen tube is a little soft.. you can see in the first picture above the bottom is starting to flair out inside the shifter .. but I raced with it for a good while this morning and it did not budge.
Used in sequential mode this morning worked great...
Oh and if anyone was wondering.. you can take the top (silver part) of the stock knob off and put weight inside it. There is a phillips screw you can get to by taking it off the shaft and putting a smaller precision screwdriver inside and unscrewing it. I found out because mine fell apart haha.
Edit - the shift knob arrived.. I present the $17 short shift kit. - I am planning to cover the H pattern red mapping on the top of the knob.. it looks nice but I am not willing to perfect the exact position for it to line up correctly when switching back to H mode from sequential.
1. m6-1.0 x100mm bolt
2. 6 pack of m6-1.0 nuts ( I used 4 )
3. a pen and something to cut it up with.
4. a cheap amazon universal shift knob (the one I picked happens to be all aluminum and hollow so I did not need to shorten the bolt) http://www.amazon.com/ESUMIC®-Automotive-Speed-Shift-Shifter/dp/B00NFF2PC8/ref=sr_1_471?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1439499953&sr=1-471&keywords=universal+shift+knob
Tools - drill with large drill bit (drill bit just smaller around than the m6 nut a the tips) gloves, hammer, and two 10mm wrenches.
I measured the height (got it wrong twice forgot to check 7th gear slot) this is where the bottom nut of the jam tightened nuts needs to be and marked with fine point sharpie. Make sure to measure based on how deep the plastic insert goes into the shift knob.
I had to drill out one of the plastic inserts to be slightly too small for the m6 nuts. This is what the glove is for to protect my hand while holding the insert as I drilled out. *The plasic insert goes on the bolt then I thread the nuts on the bolt and jam locked them into place (jam locking is just tightening them against each other with two wrenches). I then used a hammer and one of the 10mm wrenches to force the plastic insert onto the m6 nuts that were jam locked into place on the m6 bolt.. **Put one of the extra nuts on the bolt threads to protect them, you do not want to hit threads with a hammer. M6 nut edges are sharp enough to cut into the insert so that it it solid and the insert does not turn - that is why the insert was only drilled out so far that the m6 nuts would only fit with brute force.
Cut the plastic pen tube to be too long for tightening down the bolt into the shifter. Then slip it on and tighten the bolt down into the shifter without the knob. The bolt x-head top made it easy to tighten it down against the pen tube so it was snug.
Get the knob and tighten it down on the plastic insert - it will get tight. - If the knob is getting to tight and you are turning the bolt into the shifter smashing the pen tube - then remove the shaft from the shifter and jam the two extra nuts together on the end of the shaft and put a wrench on them so you can hold the bolt with the extra jammed nuts while tightening down the knob on the plastic insert. My shift knob goes pretty far over the plastic insert - that is were I messed up the measuring as the shift knob bottom edge would hit the h gate plate and I could not put it in 7th or reverse. - if you removed the shaft form the shifter now obviously put it back on which would be easy now that the knob is on - tighten it down snug pinching the pen tube.
If you care the orrientation of the knob.. you can cut the pen tube longer or shorter to get this correct.. this is why I said to leave it a bit long.. no need to completely bottom out the bolt into the shifter, but you do want it to thread in pretty far.
Only improvement I need.. the pen tube is a little soft.. you can see in the first picture above the bottom is starting to flair out inside the shifter .. but I raced with it for a good while this morning and it did not budge.
Used in sequential mode this morning worked great...
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- 156
- Branford Ct.
- scaudi7187
No work Spitfire77, the very first kit I made was actually made with a very similar knob. I got it for $8 shipped on eBay lol. I did it a little bit differently though. I used the smallest adapter I had and put it directly over that M6 rod with some shrink wrap or tape (cant remember exactly) to take up the difference in size between the inside diameter of the adapter and the m6 rod. It was only about a millimeter difference so it wasn't hard. Once that was done I used two nuts (one above adapter one below) to hold the adapter firm in place so that the shift knob could be threaded on then secured with the set screws. I had to drill out the top of the adapter so it would go all the way over the shaft. The issue I ran into was after some use the plastic spacer began to wear away causing the shift knob to be lose on the adapter. I think that mainly happened because I used the three set screws to tighten down on the adapter as well as threading. I think this started to mangle the plastic adapter and cause it to deteriorate prematurely. If your knob is just threaded without using set screws than it will most likely be just fine and shouldn't wear out. I was also very rough on mine as I was trying to see what it would take to make it come loose. This was however the factor that lead me to sourcing out metal adapters that thread directly onto the M6 to and directly into the shift knob, so the fitment is super solid. That really isn't necessary for personal use though and it does raise the cost. I just wanted as solid and long lasting a fitment as possible since I planned on selling them. Since then I stopped using that knob and only use knobs that accommodate the metal threaded adapters I use. Great work though, the adapter over the nuts probably provides a quite solid fitment and you kept the price down very low which is always a plus I know you said you mainly use sequential but I bet the H shifting feels much better now as well. Here are some pics of my kit with a similar knob, I dont sell kits with this knob but I still use it from time to time. I am currently working on a new B&M kit that I may offer to the public though, I have to see how I like it when it's done. I will add pictures once it is all finished.
I know you said you mainly use sequential but I bet the H shifting feels much better now as well. Here are some pics of my kit with a similar knob, I dont sell kits with this knob but I still use it from time to time. I am currently working on a new B&M kit that I may offer to the public though, I have to see how I like it when it's done. I will add pictures once it is all finished.
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
I have actually been using mostly h pattern mode and cars now in project cars. The short shift does feel and work much better. It is still very solid. Only issue is if you look at it off the th8a, you can see I did not get the insert drilled out perfectly straight and it is slightly crooked. Can't tell when driving though and that is all that matters to me.
- 3
- Lebanon
Hello,
just need to know if the TH8A is compatible with Logitech G29 steering wheel on PS4.
thanks,
just need to know if the TH8A is compatible with Logitech G29 steering wheel on PS4.
thanks,
- 2,801
- fatkrakr
No it isn't. On PS4 it only works with TM wheels. On PC it will work as its own device.
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