What have you done to your car today?

Took a pair of vicegrips to the Torx screws, got them out, replaced them with Phillips heads while taking out and cleaning the AFM and airbox, and resetting the ECU.

Now runs a fair whack smoother and more responsive, now I just need to wait a day or two for my KYB struts to come in :3
 
Started the long process of polishing my intake manifold. I've got most of the textured casting surface off with a rough sanding, and am now trying to find the best way of getting into all the tight spaces.

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Not one of the greatest things that has happened to my car... Technically it's what someone ELSE has done to my car.. You could call it a love tap... Now the front has a couple of dents/scratches and the front bodykit is peeling off... Plastic isn't the most integral material and can't be buffed and now I have to go and get the front replaced in a few weeks
 
Ordered Kteller's OEM-routed, stainless, 3" OD, mandrel-bent exhaust piping for my H22 build. They basically give you a straight-pipe cat-back kit to which you can splice in your own cats, mufflers, etc. I really only need the 3" for the bent sections around and behind the gas tank. From the header collector to just before the bends, instead of using this 3" straight section they give me, I'll be using a 2.5" cat and two almost muffler-thick 2.5" resonators (Vibrant UQ's, if you're familiar). I've read that anything after the downpipe is a restriction anyway, so I may as well not choke up the flow and let it breathe through the bends.

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Stopped on my way and got an oil change, new air filter, and aired up the tires.

Car feels happy now.

Plan on washing it this weekend.
 
Is the frame/radiator support bent? The bumper, hood, and fenders can be had for cheap at a junkyard. Those cars are common enough wrecks, you can probably even hold out for the right color.

I once rear-ended a mid-'00s Ford Escape. His rear bumper was the only thing damaged, and the insurance sent me paperwork saying it was a $2000 or $2500 repair. I didn't personally get charged that much. Fixed my car on my own though. Lost the rad support, radiator, a headlight, the grille, and the hood. Had a friend with welding skills fit the new rad support I ordered, the rest I got from a junkyard. I doubt I spent more than $4-500 on parts.

The hood's black with faded clear coat and there's a scratch on the bumper in front of the driver headlight from the tow hook I ran into, but it turned out almost as good as new, shape-wise:

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As a free & easy mod, I painted my fuel rail to match my custom valve cover. Used some satin black brake caliper paint I had laying around; the match is actually almost perfect. My engine's going to look so cool one day, lol.

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Is there a good place to buy good aftermarket (not eBay specails) online? And is carid a good site to but parts off of?
 
Is there a good place to buy good aftermarket (not eBay specails) online? And is carid a good site to but parts off of?

Depends on what you're looking for. Sites that sell the more typical items, like cat-back exhausts, cold air intakes, suspension, etc, don't usually sell pistons and rods alongside unless one of those brands happens to make camshafts or something (example would be Skunk2; they make almost everything, but some of their products aren't as well designed as others), at least in my experience. There are 'aftermarket parts' stores, then there are 'engine building stores'. I could probably point you to a dozen sites but they're based in America, so if you're Australian the shipping could kill your interest. (*ED. - lol, just realized that was your video I responded to)

I've never ordered from CarID before, but I've definitely heard of them. It looks like a trustworthy site. The trouble when you're starting to get into modifying cars is knowing what parts brands to trust. Whether or not you're looking on eBay, there are brands out there with poor quality parts that still do well because there are people who only look at the price and believe in the trumped-up advertising. Before investing in anything, Google reviews for the brand and product. But never discount eBay for getting a good deal on quality parts; if it appears to be the part you want and the seller has an outstanding reputation/rating, it's probably not an imitation part.

US-based sites I've used and trust:

> ImportRP.com ($100+ orders get free shipping within the 48; my go-to site for low prices on aftermarket)
> PartsGeek.com (usually the best prices for maintenance/OE replacement parts, plus they have some aftermarket)
> RockAuto.com (same as PartsGeek, more of an OE-type store; great reputation but I've never used them)
> SummitRacing.com (*ED. - probably the best place to look for go-fast Camaro parts; they have great prices anyway)
> VividRacing.com

These sites are biased more towards Japanese cars, but you may still find what you're after:
> RealStreetPerformance.com (import engine building)
> JHPUSA.com
> ICBMotorsport.com (if you're serious about rare, classic, and otherwise high-end Japanese wheels, this is one of the better distributors; very Honda-biased otherwise though)
> EvasiveMotorsports.com
> PasswordJDM.com
 
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Depends on what you're looking for. Sites that sell the more typical items, like cat-back exhausts, cold air intakes, suspension, etc, don't usually sell pistons and rods alongside unless one of those brands happens to make camshafts or something (example would be Skunk2; they make almost everything, but some of their products aren't as well designed as others), at least in my experience. There are 'aftermarket parts' stores, then there are 'engine building stores'. I could probably point you to a dozen sites but they're based in America, so if you're Australian the shipping could kill your interest. (*ED. - lol, just realized that was your video I responded to)

I've never ordered from CarID before, but I've definitely heard of them. It looks like a trustworthy site. The trouble when you're starting to get into modifying cars is knowing what parts brands to trust. Whether or not you're looking on eBay, there are brands out there with poor quality parts that still do well because there are people who only look at the price and believe in the trumped-up advertising. Before investing in anything, Google reviews for the brand and product. But never discount eBay for getting a good deal on quality parts; if it appears to be the part you want and the seller has an outstanding reputation/rating, it's probably not an imitation part.

US-based sites I've used and trust:

> ImportRP.com ($100+ orders get free shipping within the 48; my go-to site for low prices on aftermarket)
> PartsGeek.com (usually the best prices for maintenance/OE replacement parts, plus they have some aftermarket)
> RockAuto.com (same as PartsGeek, more of an OE-type store; great reputation but I've never used them)
> SummitRacing.com (*ED. - probably the best place to look for go-fast Camaro parts; they have great prices anyway)
> VividRacing.com

These sites are biased more towards Japanese cars, but you may still find what you're after:
> RealStreetPerformance.com (import engine building)
> JHPUSA.com
> ICBMotorsport.com (if you're serious about rare, classic, and otherwise high-end Japanese wheels, this is one of the better distributors; very Honda-biased otherwise though)
> EvasiveMotorsports.com
> PasswordJDM.com
You are the best. Thank you so much!
 
Full synthetic oil change in the Pilot, new air filter and a new cabin air filter:

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:crazy: A pain in the ass to change it since you literally have to cut it out fron behind the glove box.

The CR-V has a new rear wiper, too.
 
wow... I've never seen an air filter that dirty...
A cabin air filter, not that it makes a ton of difference.

Ten years and 73,441 miles without being changed will do that. The box says it should be changed every 25,000. :lol:
 
TB
A cabin air filter, not that it makes a ton of difference.

Ten years and 73,441 miles without being changed will do that. The box says it should be changed every 25,000. :lol:
Ahhh.... yeah, that makes sense now.

Even that, I've not replaced my air filter in my Taurus for years. All I do is just blow it out good with a high pressure compressed air tank, and it looks good as new.
 
Got Energy Suspension's full polyurethane kit for the RSX; two bushings were missing but the seller is getting them for me. Replaced the Knock sensor and used the experience to write a DIY for the RSX forum. The annoying part is that a lot has to come off the engine to get to it, and it's right next to the starter that I replaced not too long ago.

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Got Energy Suspensions full kit for the RSX; two bushings were missing but he seller is going to get them for me. Replaced the Knock sensor and used the experience to write a DIY for the RSX forum. The annoying part is that a lot has to come off the engine to get to it, and it's right next to the starter that I replaced not too long ago.

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That's one of those things where you go "Man, since I'm down here already...."
 
Renewed the registration on the RSX. Ordered Supertech valve springs and Titanium spring retainers for the H22 - which officially puts me over the half way point of this engine build, budget wise! Slowly but surely...
 
Some TLC for my car at 60,000 miles.

The warranty expired, so i have to put my 3 year-old car on all four jacks.
(Been wanting to work on my new car since i let go of my previous car.)

Drained the oil during dinner.

Tomorrow, will resume the work early morning.
Going to replace rear brake pads, exhaust tips, clean my windshield fluid washer pump, install magnetic removable front license plate... (will need to remove front bumper).

Need to get Oil filter tomorrow at the store (using the wifes car of course), and will need to order engine air filter, and cabin air filter.


Replaced the spark plugs:
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My car for reference:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/post-a-pic-of-your-real-car.14747/page-355#post-11075274
 
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The red GTI lettering on my steering wheel centre boss was looking faded and worn. Removed it, washed it (scrubbing away all the red (well, orange) and repainted it in Peugeot Cherry Red. Certainly requires a steady hand..

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Gave it a quick tidy once the paint was fully dried (thought I'd mention that in case someone tries to point out a stray spec of red :P)
 
Finally after years and years of wanting to do this upgrade I pulled the trigger. :) Picked up some BC Racing BR Series coilovers and 22mm Whiteline front and rear lower swaybars. The difference is night and day, completely different car took all the "Wagon" feel out of it. Feels totally planted through corners with minimal roll, I have the dampeners set to 2 click stiffer from middle and I'm considering a little more.

Can't wait to get out and do a proper shoot before the winter wheels need to go back on.

BC Racing BR Series Coilovers





16mm vs 22mm






Phone pic after alignment, better ones to come.
 
Got it registered after learning I've been driving unregistered since June.

Wish I didn't have to find out via getting a ticket.

At least they didn't tow me.
 
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So I've been getting this clicking noise on deceleration. Thought it might have been an axle but hadn't been able to diagnose it yet. What ever it was, it is now an axle and transmission issue. That piece is from where the axle slides into the trans. I'll get it up on stands tomorrow to see what all happened. A f'd up part of me is hoping that piece the bolt is holding onto is engine block... so I can do a TSX (Euro Accord) swap. What's wrong with me.
 
So I've been getting this clicking noise on deceleration. Thought it might have been an axle but hadn't been able to diagnose it yet. What ever it was, it is now an axle and transmission issue. That piece is from where the axle slides into the trans. I'll get it up on stands tomorrow to see what all happened. A f'd up part of me is hoping that piece the bolt is holding onto is engine block... so I can do a TSX (Euro Accord) swap. What's wrong with me.
Damn man what a bummer good luck getting it solved.
 
Getting a new (to me) transmission and new axles. Should solve everything. The only downside is that I was going to splurge and get Raxles if the axles turned out to be my only problem. Now I've gotta settle for AutoZone shafts, then wait for them to crap out to get the good stuff.

I'm actually looking forward to doing the work. It's been a few years since I've done anything major on a car.

*ED. - So I was wrong about where the piece came from exactly. It looks like something broke internally and got thrown around. It then got caught between the diff and the body of the transmission case, where the only thing that could happen was for the diff to punch it through the aluminum.

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Got my Ford SYNC voice commands working again.

Been having trouble with the voice commands for my ipod, recommended fix was to pull the fuse for ~5 minutes and reset the SYNC. I did that, plugged it back in and nothing. No SYNC at all, and for some reason lost an FM tuner. Pulled the fuse again, must have damaged/blown it somehow putting it back in because I popped a spare 15A in and everything is fine now.

Also went flying through a construction area at ~50mph and now the Escape is absolutely covered with mud.
 
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