Wheel settings PS4 from Jack spades.

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I do it through calibration , when i start the game i alway's calibrate the wheel first befor i play .
The hoooole episode , break ,gas wheel to 100 save than the magic 900° save (by the way ...; if you do the 900° and than you save it it should spring/rotate automate-lick in position .

Man between the word of new patch for PS4 out today and new stuff I gotta try with the wheel...I 🤬 wish this work day was over already.
 
So I've yet to pop on with my GT3RS after the update - has there been any significant updates for Fanatec that would require me to re-do the setups that I did to 'fix' the gameplay issues? I'm curious what others have noticed after 1.4 on PS4.
 
So I've yet to pop on with my GT3RS after the update - has there been any significant updates for Fanatec that would require me to re-do the setups that I did to 'fix' the gameplay issues? I'm curious what others have noticed after 1.4 on PS4.

yeah, everything is effed.

Best way to enjoy the game? Press eject, put it in it's case, put it on the shelf and hope they sort out the complete **** they have made.

Otherwise, be prepared to spend countless hours tweaking FFB settings and browsing forums.
 
yeah, everything is effed.

Best way to enjoy the game? Press eject, put it in it's case, put it on the shelf and hope they sort out the complete **** they have made.

Otherwise, be prepared to spend countless hours tweaking FFB settings and browsing forums.

Can you elaborate on that? I've been so busy with work, that I haven't had a chance to follow as much on the forums as I would like. So if I was to start the game, does it now properly detect my wheel and allow me to calibrate it? This wasn't working for many Fanatec wheels.

And when you say that FFB is still screwed, is that because we have to undo all the tweaks we did, or did they screw the already bad stock settings?
 
Can you elaborate on that? I've been so busy with work, that I haven't had a chance to follow as much on the forums as I would like. So if I was to start the game, does it now properly detect my wheel and allow me to calibrate it? This wasn't working for many Fanatec wheels.

And when you say that FFB is still screwed, is that because we have to undo all the tweaks we did, or did they screw the already bad stock settings?

I can try, for sure, work has been pretty slow for me :D. I don't have a GT3 RS wheel (have the CSR) but from what I have read over on the official forum the GT3 and GT2 are now detected as wheels. However, problems are still rife. People are experiencing violent wobbling on straights, violent sudden jerking from left to right etc

The feedback for everyone has been changed. What is happening to a large majority of users is major FFB clipping. Essentially, even with the slightest turn of the wheel the FFB signal clips and results in no feeling from the wheel during turns - which is quite important. You can verify this if it is happening to you by running the telemetry over your HUD and watching the yellow FFB line. It will max out whenever you turn.

What this means now, is countless more fiddling in the FFB settings. What seems to be the issue is that the FFB signal has been increased massively, so the in game tire force and master ffb settings have to be tweaked to prevent the FFB from clipping everytime you turn the wheel. If you manage to prevent the FFB from clipping, you then have to readjust your car values again.

On top of that, apparently the career mode is still a mess. Any changes to car set up made in the garage are STILL reset when using "returning to pit box" from the menu. I can't verify this as I didn't have the patience to even try and attempt resuming my career mode.

Hope that helped - i'd recommend heading over the forums.
 
I've been avoiding playing since the day one dead zone issues made it very frustrating. This update helped my gt3 in getting rid of that. I've also made a few changes to ffb and sensitivity settings and I'm enjoying the game now.
 
Can any T300 users tell if the FFB has changed since 1.4? And did you have to change your settings? I haven't had a proper go at it since the update - and I don't know if I have to readjust my settings!
Thanks :lol:
 
Can any T300 users tell if the FFB has changed since 1.4? And did you have to change your settings? I haven't had a proper go at it since the update - and I don't know if I have to readjust my settings!
Thanks :lol:
All I've done is lower the master scale a bit, but nothing else. Can definitely feel a difference though. Can't quite say what exactly it is, I'm sure the wheel moves about a bit more in a straight line though which is odd. I must remember to reset a car and see what the new defaults are like.
 
Can any T300 users tell if the FFB has changed since 1.4? And did you have to change your settings? I haven't had a proper go at it since the update - and I don't know if I have to readjust my settings!
Thanks :lol:

I'm a PS4 T300RS user. I had entered the Jack Spade settings a few weeks ago for every car in the game. I have only driven the RUF GT3 CAR since the update. I drove it extensively on Friday night both tuned and not tuned but with Jack Spade settings. I found the FFB slightly screwy on the tuned version compared to the day before the update but better on the stock tune (still Jack Spade settings).

Today I drove it again at Zhuhai using a stock tune again with previous Jack Spade settings. I then tried resetting the tune back to default including the ffb settings. They showed a considerable improvement. Obviously the centre spring still isn't turned off but FFB was certainly improved without the old Jack Spade settings. I can't speak for any other car yet. I'm hoping the defaults are improved for everything as they'll be more useable by all. I don't mind having to reset all car FFB settings if all defaults are improved. Of course once the centre spring can be turned off that will also improve things. Only then will I be confident of making extensive tuning adjustments. I may see if Jack Spade has made many changes to his setups.
 
I'm a PS4 T300RS user. I had entered the Jack Spade settings a few weeks ago for every car in the game. I have only driven the RUF GT3 CAR since the update. I drove it extensively on Friday night both tuned and not tuned but with Jack Spade settings. I found the FFB slightly screwy on the tuned version compared to the day before the update but better on the stock tune (still Jack Spade settings).

Today I drove it again at Zhuhai using a stock tune again with previous Jack Spade settings. I then tried resetting the tune back to default including the ffb settings. They showed a considerable improvement. Obviously the centre spring still isn't turned off but FFB was certainly improved without the old Jack Spade settings. I can't speak for any other car yet. I'm hoping the defaults are improved for everything as they'll be more useable by all. I don't mind having to reset all car FFB settings if all defaults are improved. Of course once the centre spring can be turned off that will also improve things. Only then will I be confident of making extensive tuning adjustments. I may see if Jack Spade has made many changes to his setups.
So are you saying that the default setups are better than Jack Spades old settings??
Also, what tyre force settings so you use @bleeder @JohnScoonsBeard ?? I'm still struggling to find a balance (too high= major fading but too low = lack of feel).
Thanks!:lol:
 
So are you saying that the default setups are better than Jack Spades old settings??
Also, what tyre force settings so you use @bleeder @JohnScoonsBeard ?? I'm still struggling to find a balance (too high= major fading but too low = lack of feel).
Thanks!:lol:
I'm running 100 tire force and 80 FFB, and only went down to 80 to try to eliminate some of the centre spring issues. Works a little. Haven't really done major testing since the patch as I've gone back to my career.
 
So are you saying that the default setups are better than Jack Spades old settings??
Also, what tyre force settings so you use @bleeder @JohnScoonsBeard ?? I'm still struggling to find a balance (too high= major fading but too low = lack of feel).
Thanks!:lol:

What I found was an improvement just for the one car. The stock RUF GT3 car post v1.4 going from Jack Spades ffb (sop version) to a complete reset of the car (effectively resetting the car ffb). i assume the games's general ffb settings were overwritten by the update. I haven't looked at what they are showing now. I'll have a look shortly. I'm not saying the default is better, worse of even the same as pre 1.4 with Jack settings as I honestly don't remember the difference between Thursday and today.

I did also recalibrate the wheel and pedals T300RS and T3PA.

I'm going to try it again shortly.

Edit: Maybe I hadn't completely restarted the PS4 after the update or maybe recalibrating the wheel did it but FFB with Jack Spade settings are now fine. I am now using the 66% version for the RUF GT3
 
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I have a TR T100 basic wheel and the game feels good to me using Jack Spade's settings! Not sure what all the frustration is about! :D
 
I can try, for sure, work has been pretty slow for me :D. I don't have a GT3 RS wheel (have the CSR) but from what I have read over on the official forum the GT3 and GT2 are now detected as wheels. However, problems are still rife. People are experiencing violent wobbling on straights, violent sudden jerking from left to right etc

Well now I'm torn between firing it up to see for myself or just waiting to make sure it's right. I have precious hours available for playing that I have no interest in screwing around with settings for 2 hours just to play one track and then find out it's still FUBAR.
 
I use to run the default settings with my T300RS on PS4 and the feeling is great IMO.

As it is told in the first post, be sure the soft steering dampening is set OFF, because each time you launch the game it reset ON (on PS4), it make a huge différence and the centering force is no longer a issue, and after you could at last feel all the FFB effects and no more clipping.

Make you experience and let me know.
 
Just wanted to say a big thanks to everyone who has contributed in this thread, its helped get my nice new T150 set-up much,much better than the default.

:cheers:
 
Just wanted to say a big thanks to everyone who has contributed in this thread, its helped get my nice new T150 set-up much,much better than the default.

:cheers:
I went through the same and I agree the difference is night and day.

In the end, I recommend using @Jose Mendonca's website.

It's simple, updated and works well on the phone. Each time I want to drive a new car, I go to the garage and grab the phone to enter its settings. I then save for all circuits and I'm good to go.
 
I went through the same and I agree the difference is night and day.

In the end, I recommend using @Jose Mendonca's website.

It's simple, updated and works well on the phone. Each time I want to drive a new car, I go to the garage and grab the phone to enter its settings. I then save for all circuits and I'm good to go.

Thats the one I use but I no longer use Jack Spades settings as I get a nicer feel using 100% Force Feedback and 80% Tireforce, then I use the 66% settings from the said website and I found the cars for me feel much better and a lot more progressive with FFB.

The cars give a nice feel when being smooth but hit the sawtooth curbs etc and over crests the steering goes light and free.
 
Thats the one I use but I no longer use Jack Spades settings as I get a nicer feel using 100% Force Feedback and 80% Tireforce, then I use the 66% settings from the said website and I found the cars for me feel much better and a lot more progressive with FFB.

The cars give a nice feel when being smooth but hit the sawtooth curbs etc and over crests the steering goes light and free.
Good thing you mentioned the "66% configuration", because that's the one I use as well (but forgot to mention).

I do set "Tire Force" to 80% as well, but, contrary to what is normally suggested, I let the "Force Feedback" at the game's original 75% - somehow it feels smoother to me this way, at the same time as it gives me plenty of feedback.
 
Hi there ,
So I've been reading the forums on this subject (ffb) and I am wondering if the pcars app is still applicable as the best way to start as I have gt3rsv2 but have never really got into the game as the ffb adjustment has put me off.Is anybody using this app and settings and if so does it make a difference to the feel ?? .
Thanks Mike
 
I'm not sure if it's been posted but an extremely important part of this is getting the settings for your specific wheel dialed in on the main controls menu.

This link will help- http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...et-Universal&p=1110954&viewfull=1#post1110954

It made a massive difference for my T300. Before I just had Jacks settings. His baseline settings were for the CSW v2, so unless you have one of those, you're missing out big time
 
I'm not sure if it's been posted but an extremely important part of this is getting the settings for your specific wheel dialed in on the main controls menu.

This link will help- http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...et-Universal&p=1110954&viewfull=1#post1110954

It made a massive difference for my T300. Before I just had Jacks settings. His baseline settings were for the CSW v2, so unless you have one of those, you're missing out big time

Are you talking about these 5 sets?

Full settings, from SG 0,75 to SG 1,00:

Main FFB-setting: 100
(Jack Spade global setting)

Set 1 - - - - - - / - - Set 2 - - - / - - Set 3 - - -/ - - Set 4 - - -/ - - Set 5 - - - /
TF: 75 - - - - - / - - 75 - - - - -/ - - 75 - - - - -/ - - 75 - - - - / - - 75 - - - - - / (Jack Spade global setting)
PWM: 0 - - - - / - - - 0 - - - - / - - - 0 - - - - / - - - 0 - - - -/ - - - 0 - - - - -/
PWMS: 0 - - - / - - - 0 - - - - / - - - 0 - - - - / - - - 0 - - - -/ - - - 0 - - - - -/
WPS: 0,04 - - / - - - 0,04 - - -/ - - - 0,04 - - / - - - 0,04 - - / - - - 0,04 - - - /
DRR: 0,11 - - / - - - 0,11 - - - / - - - 0,11 - - / - - - 0,11 - - / - - - 0,09 - - - / (values from sheet and testing)
DRF: 0,016 - / - - - 0,016 - - / - - - 0,017 - -/ - - - 0,017 - -/- - - 0,016 - - / (values from sheet and testing)
LSc: 0,00 - - /- - - 0,00 - - - / - - - 0,00 - - -/ - - - 0,00 - - /- - - 0,00 - - - /
LSt: 1,00 - - -/- - - 1,00 - - -/ - - - 1,00 - - -/ - - - 1,00 - - /- - - 1,00 - - - /
LD: 1,00 - - - /- - - 1,00 - - -/ - - - 1,00 - - -/ - - - 1,00 - - /- - - 1,00 - - - /
RAG: 1,50 - - / - - - 1,50 - - -/ - - - 1,50 - - -/ - - - 1,50 - - /- - - 1,50 - - - / (Jack Spade global setting)
RAB: 0,10 - - / - - - 0,10 - - -/ - - - 0,10 - - -/ - - - 0,10 - - /- - - 0,10 - - - / (Jack Spade global setting)
RAC: 0,85 - - / - - - 0,85 - - -/ - - - 0,85 - - -/ - - - 0,85 - - /- - - 0,85 - - - / (Jack Spade global setting)
SK: 0,78 - - - / - - - 0,79 - - -/ - - - 0,77 - - -/ - - - 0,77 - - / - - - 0,77 - - -/ (values from sheet and testing)
SR: 0,18 - - - / - - - 0,22 - - -/ - - - 0,25 - - -/ - - - 0,29 - - / - - - 0,29 - - -/ (values from sheet and testing)
SC H: 0,00 - -/ - - - 0,00 - - -/ - - - 0,00 - - -/ - - - 0,00 - - / - - - 0,00 - - -/
SC F: 0,00 - -/ - - - 0,00 - - -/ - - - 0,00 - - -/ - - - 0,00 - - / - - - 0,00 - - -/
MSS: 0,50 - -/ - - - 0,50 - - -/ - - - 0,50 - - - / - - - 0,50 - - / - - - 0,50 - - -/
LSSS: 0,75 - / - - - 0,75 - - - / - - - 0,75 - - - / - - - 0,75 - - / - - - 0,75 - - -/
LSSC: 0,55 - / - - - 0,55 - - - / - - - 0,55 - - - / - - - 0,55 - - / - - - 0,55 - - -/
SG: 0,75 - - -/ - - - 0,80 - - - / - - - 0,85 - - - / - - - 0,90 - - / - - - 1,00 - - -/ (desired force strength)

And which one do you recommend?
 
@35mm I'm also curious too.

I haven't had chance to play for a while as the peddles are broken at this time (new T3PA Pro's after 1 week of use!)

One thing I find so strange about the whole affair with FFB. While I love the ability to tweak every aspect of FFB and car settings I also would have liked more info from the developer about what things do and what the ideal settings should be. Even they don't seem to have a clue about what they've made.
 

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