Wheel settings PS4 from Jack spades.

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My problem with the new T300 RS was that i had a buzz when i turned my wheel to the left or right .
You know , when a wheel is new it can be that the screws get a bit loose so in my case i screw them up:P(or whatever you call it) and the buzzy was gone .
 
Yes that is the goal.. So I was playing with the soft clipping settings.. they make a HUGE difference and really need to be fixed so we can adjust them in more detail.

I ended up with Soft Clipping Half Output = 1.0 and Soft Clipping Full Output at 1.5 .. really wish I could set them at about .90 and 1.40 though.. with these I ended up going to Tire Force 75 and raised my BMW 320 master and sop scale back up to 40.. it is still a little light but much better and had no fading on a tight track with lots of detail in the FFB.

Now I am understanding the difference between what bManic does and Jack Spade does.. bManic global settings are for consumer wheels on any platform (pc, ps4, xbone) with T300, Tx, G27, Fanatec GT2 & GT3.. and jack spades global settings are for high end wheels like the CSW v2 and the direct drive wheels. Jack spades individual car settings are still valid for any wheel and he did add some info to his post on the pCARS forum about consumer wheels that are very close to bManics global settings.

Gah.. what a mess, but at least I am getting closer to where I want it.

Thank for sharing the soft clipping setup, and why not try TF=85 with 1 click or 2 of MS And SoPS decreased, my face smile while driving 320 and M1, no noticeable fading observed...hope it isn't my mind trick so could u help to test it for me as well? Thanks bro!
 
I have been using Jack's settings for awhile now and their really good,but now my t300rs is making a cracking sound,it still works,but someting isn't right...His settings are too strong period...
Do we know what wheel Jack uses?
 
I've got a slightly annoying creaking noise coming from my T300 if I gently push the wheel towards the base with either hand. I've disassembled and re tightened the wheel but it still creaks when pressure is applied. is this normal? doesn't happen a lot in race but it is there.
 
I have been using Jack's settings for awhile now and their really good,but now my t300rs is making a cracking sound,it still works,but someting isn't right...His settings are too strong period...

Yeah his settings are for club sport wheels or direct drive wheels, really high end ones.. The PC guys use his settings but they set the max force for their wheels down in the control panel so they are at a lower setting to start with.. So his settings with FFB 100, Tire Force 100 and Soft Clipping Full output are to much for the wheel. I believe this is why (others have said) that the game defaults at FFB = 75.. this would avoid to strong of force but not give you the best over all feel .. this is why they recommend to raise FFB to 100 then lower Tire force down to around 70 then set Soft clipping half output to 1.0 and Soft Clipping Full out to 1.50 then enter jack spade's individual car settings. - it really should not be this complicated for console as we do not have the ability to use the safety net in a pc driver control panel first.. also the PC guys all have centering spring at 0 which we cant do on console.. so that is eating some of the available FFB range for us console users ...
 
Thank for sharing the soft clipping setup, and why not try TF=85 with 1 click or 2 of MS And SoPS decreased, my face smile while driving 320 and M1, no noticeable fading observed...hope it isn't my mind trick so could u help to test it for me as well? Thanks bro!

I will when I get a chance.. but where I was at this morning with my global settings was working well on the Ginetta G40, the BMW 320, and the lotus 97T .. so now I am comfortable and will start going through all cars and saving the settings from jack's sheet and finally just start racing and not worry about it anymore.
 
My problem with the new T300 RS was that i had a buzz when i turned my wheel to the left or right .
You know , when a wheel is new it can be that the screws get a bit loose so in my case i screw them up:P(or whatever you call it) and the buzzy was gone .
Which screws did you tighten up?
 
Hello,could you please post the photo?
Sorry FinnZevo , forgot about it .
What to do is ...take your wheel of , and than you will see those 4 screws , tight those up if they or a bit loose .
in my case , it helped me no buzzy anymore .
Hope it helps for you to .
Greets
 
Any of you guys got any settings for the new DLC cars??

Also, can any of you concur with the TF 85 with added SoP option? I'm still not 100% current with my current setup (FFB 100 TF100 + Jack Spades Classic)
 
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Sorry FinnZevo , forgot about it .
What to do is ...take your wheel of , and than you will see those 4 screws , tight those up if they or a bit loose .
in my case , it helped me no buzzy anymore .
Hope it helps for you to .
Greets
I think its more of a cracking sound now,maybe a ball bearing,I dont know,very strange, the wheel works fine though.
 
Please Jack update some ff settings for the new cars..

Jack Spade did do updates for the new cars (v1.6).. someone else just needs to put the data into a PDF or spreadsheet for the console people.. I did my own just for the classic settings because that is what I used.. opened up the actual tweaker files and took the settings out. (screenshot attached)

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files&highlight=jack+spades

I also updated my settings for a little more compression
Relative Adj Gain = 1.20 (this was at 1.15)
Relative Adj Bleed = .10 (unchanged)
Relative Adj Clamp = 1.10 (this was at 1.05)
Full settings here https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...-from-jack-spades.328426/page-5#post-10736071
 

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Jack Spade did do updates for the new cars (v1.6).. someone else just needs to put the data into a PDF or spreadsheet for the console people.. I did my own just for the classic settings because that is what I used.. opened up the actual tweaker files and took the settings out. (screenshot attached)

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files&highlight=jack+spades

I also updated my settings for a little more compression
Relative Adj Gain = 1.20 (this was at 1.15)
Relative Adj Bleed = .10 (unchanged)
Relative Adj Clamp = 1.10 (this was at 1.05)
Full settings here https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...-from-jack-spades.328426/page-5#post-10736071
Would you mine cracking the code on Fy+SOP thats what i use and my chromebook wont open it either that or i'm a idiot or both :bowdown:
 
Would you mine cracking the code on Fy+SOP thats what i use and my chromebook wont open it either that or i'm a idiot or both :bowdown:
That's no secret on Jacks xml files, just open it with notepad+ on PC or Textedit on Mac...and you will find what you want
 
Tl;dr I am terribly sorry for this block of text. You can probably skip the beginning paragraph as that is just my random expression of the awesome time I had with my first ever experience with a wheel in the game. If anyone would kindly answer my questions below that I am extremely grateful! :bowdown::gtpflag:



I just bought the T300rs yesterday and played for couple hours last night. First ever wheel of any kind, only other time I ever raced with a wheel is in the arcades :lol: so not experienced with anything related to ffb wheel racing. It was quite fun though, even with no base of how it should feel, etc. Basically I free practiced at Laguna with the Z4 GT3, as that was the last race in career mode that I participated in (28 laps for race 1 and 42 laps for race 2). I wanted to compare lap times between pad and wheel. I could barely keep my car in between the white lines the first ten laps or so lol. Only until the end the lap times did start coming close to my pad's.

I do have several questions, and probably not the most correct thread to ask, but I figure all you guys in here are experienced with wheels and I'll ask here instead of creating a new thread.

I read a lot about clipping, and while I understand it to be in the general tune of asking the wheel to do more than it is physically able to do, but how will I know? Will I actually feel it while turning the wheel?

Another thing is the center spring issue. I noticed while driving last night, after a lot of corners at the end of the turn the wheel will always kind of turn in both directions. Hard to explain, but after making a corner, I will need to purposely grip the wheel hard and center it so the wheel won't jerk and "bounce" left and right causing the car to kind of mini swerve after every corner. Is that what the center spring issue is? Cause if it is then yes it is very annoying! Hahaha.

Last thing is what is the recommended rotation lock? I haven't changed any mode whatsoever, so I believe it should be 1080. I did read that the game locks it for different cars, but it just felt like the Z4 can turn for days lol. I also tried the Formula A, and I know the rotation is much smaller for the F1 cars. Is the wheel supposed to be physically not able to turn the full 1080 degrees? Or will you still be able to physically turn the wheel all the way but the game won't recognize any input past whatever the rotation degree is?
 
What tyre force do you T300 guys use? I originally used 100 but have been reducing it to about 85. Not sure what will get the best feel!
Thanks :lol:
 
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Tl;dr I am terribly sorry for this block of text. You can probably skip the beginning paragraph as that is just my random expression of the awesome time I had with my first ever experience with a wheel in the game. If anyone would kindly answer my questions below that I am extremely grateful! :bowdown::gtpflag:



I just bought the T300rs yesterday and played for couple hours last night. First ever wheel of any kind, only other time I ever raced with a wheel is in the arcades :lol: so not experienced with anything related to ffb wheel racing. It was quite fun though, even with no base of how it should feel, etc. Basically I free practiced at Laguna with the Z4 GT3, as that was the last race in career mode that I participated in (28 laps for race 1 and 42 laps for race 2). I wanted to compare lap times between pad and wheel. I could barely keep my car in between the white lines the first ten laps or so lol. Only until the end the lap times did start coming close to my pad's.

I do have several questions, and probably not the most correct thread to ask, but I figure all you guys in here are experienced with wheels and I'll ask here instead of creating a new thread.

I read a lot about clipping, and while I understand it to be in the general tune of asking the wheel to do more than it is physically able to do, but how will I know? Will I actually feel it while turning the wheel?

Another thing is the center spring issue. I noticed while driving last night, after a lot of corners at the end of the turn the wheel will always kind of turn in both directions. Hard to explain, but after making a corner, I will need to purposely grip the wheel hard and center it so the wheel won't jerk and "bounce" left and right causing the car to kind of mini swerve after every corner. Is that what the center spring issue is? Cause if it is then yes it is very annoying! Hahaha.

Last thing is what is the recommended rotation lock? I haven't changed any mode whatsoever, so I believe it should be 1080. I did read that the game locks it for different cars, but it just felt like the Z4 can turn for days lol. I also tried the Formula A, and I know the rotation is much smaller for the F1 cars. Is the wheel supposed to be physically not able to turn the full 1080 degrees? Or will you still be able to physically turn the wheel all the way but the game won't recognize any input past whatever the rotation degree is?
Go for the 900° , is what i have done .
Much better .
 
Tl;dr I am terribly sorry for this block of text. You can probably skip the beginning paragraph as that is just my random expression of the awesome time I had with my first ever experience with a wheel in the game. If anyone would kindly answer my questions below that I am extremely grateful! :bowdown::gtpflag:



I just bought the T300rs yesterday and played for couple hours last night. First ever wheel of any kind, only other time I ever raced with a wheel is in the arcades :lol: so not experienced with anything related to ffb wheel racing. It was quite fun though, even with no base of how it should feel, etc. Basically I free practiced at Laguna with the Z4 GT3, as that was the last race in career mode that I participated in (28 laps for race 1 and 42 laps for race 2). I wanted to compare lap times between pad and wheel. I could barely keep my car in between the white lines the first ten laps or so lol. Only until the end the lap times did start coming close to my pad's.

I do have several questions, and probably not the most correct thread to ask, but I figure all you guys in here are experienced with wheels and I'll ask here instead of creating a new thread.

I read a lot about clipping, and while I understand it to be in the general tune of asking the wheel to do more than it is physically able to do, but how will I know? Will I actually feel it while turning the wheel?

Another thing is the center spring issue. I noticed while driving last night, after a lot of corners at the end of the turn the wheel will always kind of turn in both directions. Hard to explain, but after making a corner, I will need to purposely grip the wheel hard and center it so the wheel won't jerk and "bounce" left and right causing the car to kind of mini swerve after every corner. Is that what the center spring issue is? Cause if it is then yes it is very annoying! Hahaha.

Last thing is what is the recommended rotation lock? I haven't changed any mode whatsoever, so I believe it should be 1080. I did read that the game locks it for different cars, but it just felt like the Z4 can turn for days lol. I also tried the Formula A, and I know the rotation is much smaller for the F1 cars. Is the wheel supposed to be physically not able to turn the full 1080 degrees? Or will you still be able to physically turn the wheel all the way but the game won't recognize any input past whatever the rotation degree is?
if you feel a kinda grinding sensation from the wheel that makes you think something's wrong then it's probably clipping. pull up the telemetry in the car and if you see a white line below the yellow line in the top left box there's an issue. dunno if the new patch eliminates this but it's thought that it's a glitch with the wheel. if you restart race without changing any settings it tends to go away, indicating a bug.

i never changed my wheel rotation, it changes per car anyway. you'll notice it physically won't turn as far in some cars compared to others.

the launch FFB settings weren't so good, not sure what's changed in the patch, so it's advisable to lower those sliders that are at 100 in the car feedback setup screen and it'll feel a lot better.

centre spring is also annoying but i believe this was to be addressed in the patch, haven't tested it myself, but hopefully someone else can tell you. i'll be testing later tonight.

but be happy you've bought a great wheel!
 
Go for the 900° , is what i have done .
Much better .

So meaning either set it to 900 via the mode selector on the wheel or at the calibration wheel not turning the wheel full lock right? I just watched some onboard videos onboard the Z4 at Spa and I noticed they turn the wheel a lot less than I had to last night.

if you feel a kinda grinding sensation from the wheel that makes you think something's wrong then it's probably clipping. pull up the telemetry in the car and if you see a white line below the yellow line in the top left box there's an issue. dunno if the new patch eliminates this but it's thought that it's a glitch with the wheel. if you restart race without changing any settings it tends to go away, indicating a bug.

i never changed my wheel rotation, it changes per car anyway. you'll notice it physically won't turn as far in some cars compared to others.

the launch FFB settings weren't so good, not sure what's changed in the patch, so it's advisable to lower those sliders that are at 100 in the car feedback setup screen and it'll feel a lot better.

centre spring is also annoying but i believe this was to be addressed in the patch, haven't tested it myself, but hopefully someone else can tell you. i'll be testing later tonight.

but be happy you've bought a great wheel!

Thanks! Very happy, just getting used to using this new driving style and the kinks and quirks of it.
 
So meaning either set it to 900 via the mode selector on the wheel or at the calibration wheel not turning the wheel full lock right
I do it through calibration , when i start the game i alway's calibrate the wheel first befor i play .
The hoooole episode , break , gas , turn the wheel to 100 and save it , than do the magic 900° turn and save it to .
By the way ...if you do the 900° and you save it , than the wheel should rotate automate-lick in position .
 
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