Wheel settings PS4 from Jack spades.

[Spitfire77]

So glad you adjusted the columns to match the order of the game. It was annoyingly tedious doing them out of order, at least for me.


Also curious what people are thinking of the new options, or even the updated original versions.

I'm using the T300, and have been using the original(non updated for now) SOP+ versions and haven't had any complaints. Well, I guess my only complaint is that I started the game on the default settings, so everything I change feels 'too soft' compared to the rock-hard default feeling.

I did not adjust the columns to the correct order.. the guy who provided the sheets did (Wootball). I just made it all fit nicely printed out. - I am still using the classic ones and enjoying it - have not switched over to any of the new settings.

 

[Idinity]

Ok. so my Telemetry is showing the white line now when i turn, telling me my FFB is too heavy, any idea what i should reduce ? because it was actually after is reduced my master scale, and my wheel has gotten a little lighter due to this, or is it just showing that i am turning too hard when i should not ?

Im confused tbh.

 

[diesel97]

Ok. so my Telemetry is showing the white line now when i turn, telling me my FFB is too heavy, any idea what i should reduce ? because it was actually after is reduced my master scale, and my wheel has gotten a little lighter due to this, or is it just showing that i am turning too hard when i should not ?

Im confused tbh.

The white line is not clipping (i thought it was to ) its a bug on the FFB . If you back to the pits or worse case shut down the game and restart. It is "canned FFB " that got taking out , i guess not all though.

 

[Simfan David]

To add to my previous post; upping the Mz slider gives you a lot more FFB when sliding, or when the car starts to break away in general.

Will this give you that feeling of push or understeer. I havent been getting alot of ffb feel when the fronts loose grip. Your wheel should go limp right? Or atleast some what.

 

[GTAndy36]

Will this give you that feeling of push or understeer. I havent been getting alot of ffb feel when the fronts loose grip. Your wheel should go limp right? Or atleast some what.

Yes, when understeering your wheel should go lighter. Due to the front tyres losing grip, therefore the front wheels are easier to turn.

However, due to the centre spring issue on the T300... if you've got the FFB set too strong, that can kick in and ruins that feel.

 

[mister dog]

Will this give you that feeling of push or understeer. I havent been getting alot of ffb feel when the fronts loose grip. Your wheel should go limp right? Or atleast some what.

Yes normally although with me it seemed i felt the car breaking away from the back a lot more (oversteer). Which was also very helpful of course

For those still struggling, please be advised to not focus too much on any of the FFB settings apart from the Fx,Fy,Fz,Mz scales. After i know what i'm doing now i went back and tweaked the Megane for example, which has FFB clipping in corners.

That was caused mostly by the Fy scale, so i lowered that one only to 60% and this solved the problem. Steering feels light now like a proper modern day car that has power steering and there is no clipping anymore.

What i have found is that the game mostly gets that slider a bit wrong. Modern day power steering cars have too much Fy and therefore suffer from heavy steering, whilst older cars and non power steering cars like feel too light. Also the bumps and kerbs feel almost non existant, so i always up the Fz scale to about 140, and upping the Mz scale gives me a lot better feedback when the back is breaking away, which in turn makes it a lot easier and more natural to control slides (that one i also up at least +20).

No need to touch the master scale or any other FFB settings in the pit menu, but do take notice that in the main FFB settings of the game (options/controls/FFB calibration menu), you have to put the 'deadzone removal range' to 0.15 on most wheels.

I use a CSR, so your wheel might be a bit different, but now that you understand the parameters i mentioned above, you can compensate for that

ps. I made a thread in the tuning section where i will post my findings for each car:

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/tune-the-cars-ffb-settings-first-setups-included.329160/

 

[Idinity]

Great thread mate, apparently my ffb went back to normal after a few adjustments to sop, and arm angle...

 

[Fight-Test]

I had this happen a few times also Idinity. Make sure and do in the garage and save. It stays sometimes when I do in the lobby but sometimes not.

 

[Mr_Hansen]

I've been using Jack Spades settings for a while now, but for some reason today the wheel was far too heavy and was shaking violently on the straights - and these were on the same settings that I use all the time that usually feel great!
What could this problem be? I use a T300.

My T500RS just started shaking when going in a straight line today, no matter what car. The FFB seems to work like normal when the wheel is turned, but shakes violently every time it's straight (even when the cars is standing still).

I've also been using Jack Spades setting, but even though I've now tried to reset the FFB setting in the garage menu and also tried resetting the settings under "options>controller" in the main menu, I still have the problem.
I have also tried to exit the game and disconnect and reconnect the wheel again as well as restarting the PS4, but to no avail.

I know the T500RS have some problems in PCARS, but this is not the issue described in Thrustmasters statement, where the wheel shakes in the menus when not completely straight, as I'm not experiencing that (at the moment at least).
If anybody knows how to fix it, it would be really appreciated.

EDIT:
- regarding standing still, the wheel actually shakes no matter what position it is in when the car is at a halt. Have to give up driving for today, as it is borderline unplayable..

Final EDIT:
The problem seems to have been caused by having 'Deadzone Removal Range' for the force feedback, set to anything more than 0.00 (even though I've previously had it at 0.05 with no problems). The wheel now seems to be working as before, though still with the glitches mentioned known by Thrustmaster.

 

[JBF77]

Having a challenge deciding whether to use the Classic or the Bumps Plus versions (T300). What do you guys recommend?

 

[Spitfire77]

Having a challenge deciding whether to use the Classic or the Bumps Plus versions (T300). What do you guys recommend?

The bumps plus would feel cool but I would be careful going that high with Fz and SoP diff (140) as he stated that clipping is not ruled out. If you prefer the Fy+SoPLateral over the classic .. then try taking the Fy+SoPLateral settings then just increasing Fz and SoP Diff by 20 and see if you like it - that would give you the same effect as the bumps plus but less likely to result in clipping.

 

[amazed]

These settings have really brought the game alive, although I've only been using a wheel for a couple of days.

Real pain having to save each car setup on each track, or am I missing something???

 

[Spitfire77]

These settings have really brought the game alive, although I've only been using a wheel for a couple of days.

Real pain having to save each car setup on each track, or am I missing something???

Go into the garage from main menu - select a car you just set up, and select edit current settings - save them and make sure to select save to all tracks.

If you dont have a setup do the same just select new setup and then save to all tracks. This is what I do before I drive each car.. I put in the FFB settings from the sheet save to all tracks then get to racing.

 

[TheDabbinDave]

I have not used my T500 yet, I kinda want to wait for an SMS patch so it doesn't get ruined. Concerning wheel & pedal calibration, I have no intention of ever using the clutch for any game. As such, for left foot braking, I have an extra wide pedal that bolts to the both the brake and clutch arms. Will this be an issue when it comes to calibrating the pedals?

 

[FinnZevo]

I have not used my T500 yet, I kinda want to wait for an SMS patch so it doesn't get ruined. Concerning wheel & pedal calibration, I have no intention of ever using the clutch for any game. As such, for left foot braking, I have an extra wide pedal that bolts to the both the brake and clutch arms. Will this be an issue when it comes to calibrating the pedals?

Your wheel wont get ruined,plug it and start racing,I have the T300rs,works great and didnt update the firmware..

 

[GTAndy36]

Will this be an issue when it comes to calibrating the pedals?

No. I can't see any reason why that would matter.

 

[amazed]

Go into the garage from main menu - select a car you just set up, and select edit current settings - save them and make sure to select save to all tracks.

If you dont have a setup do the same just select new setup and then save to all tracks. This is what I do before I drive each car.. I put in the FFB settings from the sheet save to all tracks then get to racing.

Thanks!

 

[TheDabbinDave]

The T500 is having issues with this game.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/absolutely-fed-up-with-this-t500rs.328924/

No. I can't se]e any reason why that would matter.

It might matter because it's pressing both pedals at the same time.

 

[WarriusZero]

If anyone is interested, I'm in the process of mocking up a standalone app for Android using Tasker (and Tasker App Factory) to make it easy to get all these settings on a small screen by my side, rather than having to deal with the laptop and 4 spreadsheets...
Data updates are done by copying csv files to a folder.

 

[Yellowbeard]

If anyone is interested, I'm in the process of mocking up a standalone app for Android using Tasker (and Tasker App Factory) to make it easy to get all these settings on a small screen by my side, rather than having to deal with the laptop and 4 spreadsheets...
Data updates are done by copying csv files to a folder.

Not sure it's really necessary the xls document works fine on my phone as it is.

(screenshot)

 

[the_D_]

If anyone is interested, I'm in the process of mocking up a standalone app for Android using Tasker (and Tasker App Factory) to make it easy to get all these settings on a small screen by my side, rather than having to deal with the laptop and 4 spreadsheets...
Data updates are done by copying csv files to a folder.

That'd be a great idea, then to bolster the need for said app, it could be a tuning database too, but for IOS as well, I have iPad and iPhone

 

[WarriusZero]

@Yellowbeard the point is to have all the information available without scrolling.
@the_D_ My skills are VERY limited, and limited to Android. The jump to an iOS tuning app is a rather big jump!

Here's an early screenshot:

It doesn't look pretty but it does the job. Once I'm done with the basic stuff, I'll try to add the ability to save my own settings.

If a proper developer stumbles upon this and wants to take over with a real app, I'm happy to help out as tester.

 

[diesel97]

@Yellowbeard the point is to have all the information available without scrolling.
@the_D_ My skills are VERY limited, and limited to Android. The jump to an iOS tuning app is a rather big jump!

Here's an early screenshot:

View attachment 376173


It doesn't look pretty but it does the job. Once I'm done with the basic stuff, I'll try to add the ability to save my own settings.

If a proper developer stumbles upon this and wants to take over with a real app, I'm happy to help out as tester.

Looks good but phone isn't that big haha

 

[Crisis Nine]

@Yellowbeard the point is to have all the information available without scrolling.
@the_D_ My skills are VERY limited, and limited to Android. The jump to an iOS tuning app is a rather big jump!

Here's an early screenshot:

View attachment 376173


It doesn't look pretty but it does the job. Once I'm done with the basic stuff, I'll try to add the ability to save my own settings.

If a proper developer stumbles upon this and wants to take over with a real app, I'm happy to help out as tester.

That's a great bit of work mate thanks very much. I'll definitely be downloading that when you're done!

 

[LotusTeam]

I just can't do it on FFB=100, not because it is too heavy but ever since I used FFB=100, my T300 gets overheated and the FFB strength faded away very quickly, try some bumpy road like California Highway, the T300 FFB strength will fade out to very light (around FFB=85) within 15mins..... do u guys notice that or is just me?

 

[svenvangent]

Perhaps lowering the FFB a bit down , lets say 60/65 .
I drive also with a T300 RS and have for the moment no problems at 60 .
Do not forget the word " FOR THE MOMENT "

 

[LotusTeam]

Perhaps lowering the FFB a bit down , lets say 60/65 .
I drive also with a T300 RS and have for the moment no problems at 60 .
Do not forget the word " FOR THE MOMENT "

I'm pretty sure FFB = 60 or 65 definitely has no problem at all, because the FFB default value is already 75

 

[GTAndy36]

Yeah @LotusTeam the my T300 really doesn't like 100% FFB either, no matter what I do to the other settings.

 

[Spitfire77]

Yeah @LotusTeam the my T300 really doesn't like 100% FFB either, no matter what I do to the other settings.

Curious... with FFB at 75 or 60 or what ever you have it at, what are your settings for your favorite car? - I have a T300 and ps4 and would like to try your settings to see how they feel.

Global FFB =

Global Tire Force =

Car =

Master Scale =
Fx Scale =
Fy Scale =
Fz Scale =
Fx Smooth =
Arm Angle =

SoP Scale =
SoP Lateral =
SoP Diff =
SoP Damp=

 

[VBR]

Who on Earth is Jack Spades? Sounds like a kids TV character.