Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

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Lol, well apparently I was in the process of editing before you replied, and you got there first.

Are you modding a CSR or a CSR Elite? Are the 555's 4-pole motors? The ones I have to replace them are 7-pole.
 
Lol, well apparently I was in the process of editing before you replied, and you got there first.

Are you modding a CSR or a CSR Elite? Are the 555's 4-pole motors? The ones I have to replace them are 7-pole.

RS555PH-22130

5 poles
130 turns

I have modified both wheels and measured their torque output using a small homemade dynamometer as it is the most accurate method I could think of. Steering rim diameters and weights have too much effect on true output.

When I am done with these wheels I will no longer be using them and will move to something else. I purchased them used and when my fun is done so am I. :)

I do not wish to purchase their other wheels.
 
Yes, the skinnier belt that runs to the electric motor pulleys.

Oh and to ViaContra: sorry, forgot to answer your question. I use Inventor for modeling and AutoCAD for dimensioned drawings made from the imported model. I am able to use them at my former employer's. I couldn't afford them myself. However AutoDesk will let you have copies for free if you are using it to learn. The only thing is they do something so you can't use it to print (maybe overlay with a message?) or something like that.

As far as warranty, everything I plan to change would be able to be changed back, and shouldn't affect the warranty. I might sell some kits if there is interest, but I'm not planning on it. My motor mods that I'm doing for only my wheel will probably void the warranty though. At this point, if another set of motors burn up, I could care less, since all they'll do under warranty is give me another set that will burn up. I am planning on a water-cooling setup that I might sell kits for too, (again, depends on interest), and that shouldn't void anything either. The cooling is very much needed, IMO. I just played some GT5 on my new CSW and I could feel the FFB strength dropping off after about 20-30 minutes of play.

so is it same thickness as other belt now? Number on mine is PJ584

with GT5 ive done long nights of 5/10 lap races pretty well constant running with my CSW im in a 21c room though and i havent noticed any drop in FFB i run 10 ingame & 70 on wheel (for some reason lol) i can feel the air is warmer coming out the side of base but usually stays nice & cool even after long sessions
 
The motor stock motor cooling has shown sufficient on my measurements and testing. The force generated does not seem to weaken much over time and the motor shaft temperature seems to be within acceptable limits.

The motors used are simply not very strong in this configuration and belt slippage plays a small role in some of this. It is interesting that they have included a wider belt now. More than belts, motors, etc. are involved in some of the issues.
 
ViaContra, what about the drive MOSFETs? I am pretty much positive I am feeling a significant reduction in torque the longer I play. Unless it's just the comms going to ****e already. Do you have any insight on electrical improvements that you found helpful?

Yeah I know the 555 designation, I just couldn't find a spec sheet for it anywhere.

Smokey, I used to run 10 in GT5, but since I got this wheel I've been running 8, since I heard that running max FFB in-games often causes clipping of the signal. I run the wheel at 100. No, the motor drive belt isn't the same as the wheel drive belt. The wheel drive belt is 4-rib, the original CSR Elite and CSW motor drive belts are 2-rib, and my latest CSW has a 3-rib motor drive belt. Not sure when they changed this.
 
ViaContra, what about the drive MOSFETs? I am pretty much positive I am feeling a significant reduction in torque the longer I play. Unless it's just the comms going to ****e already. Do you have any insight on electrical improvements that you found helpful?

Yeah I know the 555 designation, I just couldn't find a spec sheet for it anywhere.

Smokey, I used to run 10 in GT5, but since I got this wheel I've been running 8, since I heard that running max FFB in-games often causes clipping of the signal. I run the wheel at 100. No, the motor drive belt isn't the same as the wheel drive belt. The wheel drive belt is 4-rib, the original CSR Elite and CSW motor drive belts are 2-rib, and my latest CSW has a 3-rib motor drive belt. Not sure when they changed this.

Sorry, I was not aware you knew the motor model decoding. There is a document for it on the Mabuchi website. I would need to check a motor the next time i have the end of the motor off to count the poles to be sure.

I do not have any specific electrical improvements as I am not that type of engineer. You maybe have a bad thermal bond between the heatsink and your driver chips. Check your motor wires to see if they are hot too.

I'm sorry I can not be more help with this part right now
 
Yes, this is true, but my goal is not necessarily reduced slippage so much as reducing side load for people using stock motors (hopefully they will be able to reduce belt tension or leave it equal and reduce any slippage to minimum. That being said, a 90 degree belt wrap seems very insufficient as far as grip levels go, especially once the belt has aged a bit.

On another note, I've just received my new CSW and it is sporting a 3-rib motor drive belt rather than the 2-rib used on the Elite. So it must be of some concern to Fanatec as well. It is pretty clear the Japanese blogger's original beta CSW has a 2-rib belt from his photos, so it must be a change they made at some point. Wonder when?

You could take pictures of the 3 belts(CSW)?
If possible the CSR elite also. thank you

As far as warranty, everything I plan to change would be able to be changed back, and shouldn't affect the warranty. I might sell some kits if there is interest, but I'm not planning on it. My motor mods that I'm doing for only my wheel will probably void the warranty though. At this point, if another set of motors burn up, I could care less, since all they'll do under warranty is give me another set that will burn up. I am planning on a water-cooling setup that I might sell kits for too, (again, depends on interest), and that shouldn't void anything either. The cooling is very much needed, IMO. I just played some GT5 on my new CSW and I could feel the FFB strength dropping off after about 20-30 minutes of play.

30 minutes? For a new product and expensive that's absurd.
 
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Yeah, I agree. It still has decent FFB even after it seems to drop off, it just starts to feel weaker and more rubbery, if you will.
 
Yeah, I agree. It still has decent FFB even after it seems to drop off, it just starts to feel weaker and more rubbery, if you will.

More rubbery? As in...? The belts getting warm and more elastic?
 
it is normal for the FFB to become weaker after a while when using FFB at 100%.
it is a built in safety feature in the firmware that reduces current in the motors as the temps rise.
 
Sorry, I was not aware you knew the motor model decoding. There is a document for it on the Mabuchi website. I would need to check a motor the next time i have the end of the motor off to count the poles to be sure.

I do not have any specific electrical improvements as I am not that type of engineer. You maybe have a bad thermal bond between the heatsink and your driver chips. Check your motor wires to see if they are hot too.

I'm sorry I can not be more help with this part right now

yes they are a five pole type.


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So Dave, if we can keep the temps down the current will stay constant? Do you know if this is dependent on the temperature sensor or if it's a built-in algorithm or time/current table?

And as far as the rubbery, I just mean the resistance to turning doesn't feel as solid, it sort of feels rubbery. It has nothing to do with the belts, and everything to do with either torque loss due to heat or the current reduction Dave is talking about in the firmware. My new motors should fight the current reduction well with 2 extra poles, but torque=current, so if it is related to the temp sensor, my water cooling mod becomes even more important.

Felipe, what are you asking for pictures of? Just the 2 different wheels with the different sized belts? I can do that I guess, my Elite is still here and it has the 2-rib belt.

Paskowitz, it is definitely happening. Maybe you aren't running as high of FFB as I am, I like it strong. And it's not just with my CSW...both of my Elites did the same thing.

Edit: Here you go Felipe:

This is the CSW with the 3-rib belt:

CSW3Rib-1.jpg


And here is the Elite with the 2-rib belt:

Elite2Rib.jpg


If you look closely, you can see that the CSW also has a different finish on the pulley than the Elite. The Elite pulley is "as-machined" finish and the CSW pulley appears to have been grit-blasted to roughen up the surface...presumably to increase grip and reduce slippage.
 
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ya my CSW has the optibelt RB PJ584 2 rib belt. ive just ordered a Optibelt RB PJ584 3 rib off ebay for 5.44 as spare, if it fits good if not whats 5 bucks lol
 
I also notice that the teeth mark on the new design have a flat surface, while the old one is pointy.
 
My Elite's pulley is textured like the CSW pulley from sand blasting. My Elite was from batch #2 as my first one had the bearing play issue. On my first batch Elite the pulley was "as machined".

The motor pulleys were and are "as machined on both wheels though.

Media blasting pulleys for more bite seems pretty common. I have an aftermarket supercharger kit on my car and the main drive pulley that fastens to the engine's crankshaft is media blasted to give it texture.
 
Smokey, it will work just fine.

LogiForce, the pulley groove bottom is pointy on both, it is just a little out of focus on the CSW pic. Makes no difference anyway, since the belt doesn't contact the bottom of the groove.

hawk do you have a 2-rib or 3-rib belt on the motor drive?

Uhh, Patro, good night? =)
 
ya 2 rib will be fine :D just thought if i ever need to pull apart to fix something oneday ill chuck the 3 rib on as i got no interest in pullin it apart ever lol
 
it is normal for the FFB to become weaker after a while when using FFB at 100%.
it is a built in safety feature in the firmware that reduces current in the motors as the temps rise.

My CSR-E does not become weaker even after hours of online racing, my FF is at 100%.
I read a test on the effect of lowering the FF on the wheel on a Fanatec wheel and was convince that the best way to use the wheel is FF100% on the wheel and adjust the SIM FF strengh for the result you are expecting.

I would be very curious to know if there is such a feature in the FW, to reduce current when the motor over heat.
It does not sound like a bad idea to offer it as an option. It would let the driver know it is time to take it easy and save motors.
 
My CSR-E does not become weaker even after hours of online racing, my FF is at 100%.
I read a test on the effect of lowering the FF on the wheel on a Fanatec wheel and was convince that the best way to use the wheel is FF100% on the wheel and adjust the SIM FF strengh for the result you are expecting.

I would be very curious to know if there is such a feature in the FW, to reduce current when the motor over heat.
It does not sound like a bad idea to offer it as an option. It would let the driver know it is time to take it easy and save motors.

My CSW doesn't seem to either. I can't imagine them making it to get weaker just because you are using it for more then a few minutes. If it does it would have to be a really small amount of force lost. I've used mine for hours on end and never noticed it getting weaker.
 
My CSW got weaker after 15/20 mins FFB 100. But then it was cogging as well so the fault was with the motors and they replaced them
 
Personally, I do feel a slight "weakening" after 10-15 minutes on either oval or road, NO cogging, yet.... I use the F9 button on iRacing to go over to FFB and tune it up 1 click (0.5) From there, either 30 minutes to 2 hours, I feel no difference, and it is consistent. I must admit, my base, even being a BETA base, has been nothing short of exceptional! This and the CSP's are the ONLY thing I can say this for from Fanatec.
 
So Dave, if we can keep the temps down the current will stay constant? Do you know if this is dependent on the temperature sensor or if it's a built-in algorithm or time/current table?

And as far as the rubbery, I just mean the resistance to turning doesn't feel as solid, it sort of feels rubbery. It has nothing to do with the belts, and everything to do with either torque loss due to heat or the current reduction Dave is talking about in the firmware. My new motors should fight the current reduction well with 2 extra poles, but torque=current, so if it is related to the temp sensor, my water cooling mod becomes even more important.

Felipe, what are you asking for pictures of? Just the 2 different wheels with the different sized belts? I can do that I guess, my Elite is still here and it has the 2-rib belt.

Paskowitz, it is definitely happening. Maybe you aren't running as high of FFB as I am, I like it strong. And it's not just with my CSW...both of my Elites did the same thing.

Edit: Here you go Felipe:

This is the CSW with the 3-rib belt:

CSW3Rib-1.jpg


And here is the Elite with the 2-rib belt:

Elite2Rib.jpg


If you look closely, you can see that the CSW also has a different finish on the pulley than the Elite. The Elite pulley is "as-machined" finish and the CSW pulley appears to have been grit-blasted to roughen up the surface...presumably to increase grip and reduce slippage.

Exactly that! Thank you.

I decided that I will buy the CSW. And so I will do an analysis and report of use during that year(using blog, facebook...). Where I live the average temperature is 27c. Yesterday for example made ​​38c (on the street). And the relative humidity is high... If that csw base is reliable quality not problem presented to me(new batch). In this region know people who have T500rs 2 years, g25, g27GT2, GT3 wheels and never had significant problems and my old MOMO lasted 7 years.
The only two people I know who have had the CSW engines burned. But are the old batch of 2012..


My CSW got weaker after 15/20 mins FFB 100. But then it was cogging as well so the fault was with the motors and they replaced them

When you bought the CSW?



edit:
I forgot to mention. I have the CSPV2 the one month and seem solids. The accelerator had a problem and the magnetic axis (the axis that has the magnet) came with crooked screw slot, after 3 days I could "fix" the problem
But I'm sad because as a pedal that costs the total price of a G27 can present problems. As the products of this line value CSW series presents so many problems with so
many people. I do not believe it is 3% to 5% of defective products as Thomas mentioned,should be more.

A photo of CSPV2, then put a video of my bride playing. I will doing a report for use during the year. Outside the initial headache is a great pedal.

51dbus.jpg
 
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I thought that was the job for the fans.


it is in conjunction with the fan control. depending on the ambient temperature inside the case the controller will slowly reduce the motor current and the fan speed will increase untill the motor and ambient temps have come down. it is not a large amount but some will or will not notice it.
i believe it is more noticeable on the pwts and gt2 wheels as opposed to the newer versions.
and it seems to vary depending on the firmware version . this is a part of the reason why some say the FFB is weaker or stronger on some firmwares.
they seem to be trying a lot of settings to try and get the motors to last longer.
 
Guys it's not a massive difference, but I can definitely feel the difference. Some people are a little more/less sensitive to it than others. I'm sure it's happening to everyone, as all 3 of my different wheels did it. IIRC, with different firmware versions I could feel it more or less, so the people who don't think they feel it may just be on a different firmware. I could definitely feel it with 757 on the Elites, and I feel it with 037 on my CSW.
 
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